Shop OBEX P1 Docs P2 Docs Learn Events
light and sound — Parallax Forums

light and sound

ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
edited 2004-05-20 17:29 in General Discussion
Dear members,

Would someone have ideas on how to connect
a 120+ W light and speaker? My idea is to make
an alarm for my wife that turns on the light slowly
along with volume on the speaker. I've got all the
timing and alarm stuff, but how do I vary control on
the light, like a dimmer? And how do I interface with
real 120v power from the wall?

Thanks much for you thoughts.

Jason

Comments

  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2004-05-20 07:28
    --- In basicstamps@yahoogroups.com, j.belskus@c... wrote:
    >
    > Dear members,
    >
    > Would someone have ideas on how to connect
    > a 120+ W light and speaker? My idea is to make
    > an alarm for my wife that turns on the light slowly
    > along with volume on the speaker. I've got all the
    > timing and alarm stuff, but how do I vary control on
    > the light, like a dimmer? And how do I interface with
    > real 120v power from the wall?
    >
    > Thanks much for you thoughts.
    >
    > Jason


    I know others will offer more conventional ways, but just for fun,
    you can power a regualar incandescent light with DC.

    And, if you use DC, you can use a pulse width control to run that
    from a very low cost MOSFET.

    You will not get the same brightness as a 120VAC light, but it is fun
    to try different things.


    Dave


    http://www.visualmuses.com/chipcircuit/index.html
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2004-05-20 07:59
    At 06:28 AM 5/20/04 +0000, Dave Mucha wrote:
    >--- In basicstamps@yahoogroups.com, j.belskus@c... wrote:
    >>
    >> Dear members,
    >>
    >> Would someone have ideas on how to connect
    >> a 120+ W light and speaker? My idea is to make
    >> an alarm for my wife that turns on the light slowly
    >> along with volume on the speaker. I've got all the
    >> timing and alarm stuff, but how do I vary control on
    >> the light, like a dimmer? And how do I interface with
    >> real 120v power from the wall?
    >>
    >> Thanks much for you thoughts.
    >>
    >> Jason
    >
    >
    >I know others will offer more conventional ways, but just for fun,
    >you can power a regualar incandescent light with DC.
    >
    >And, if you use DC, you can use a pulse width control to run that
    >from a very low cost MOSFET.
    >
    >You will not get the same brightness as a 120VAC light, but it is fun
    >to try different things.
    >
    >
    >Dave
    Just as a matter of clarification the brightness of an incandescent light bulb will be unaffected by whether it's powered by AC or DC so long as the voltage is the same. A tungsten resistor in an air-tight envelope cares less what kind of voltage is passing through it to make it incandesce.

    Bruce
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2004-05-20 12:44
    You can drive a 12-volt bulb from the ramped PCM output (yes, use a MOSFET
    to get enough current). In fact, 12-volt bulbs tend to be brighter for a
    given wattage compared to a 120-volt bulb since their smaller filaments run
    hotter and can be focused easier. It's probably too much trouble to
    interface into a ramped AC Triac controller with the stamp, unless you're
    trying for hundreds of watts of lighting.

    Mike Sokol
    mike@f...
    www.fitsandstarts.com

    " One should not increase, beyond what is necessary,
    the number of entities required to explain anything"...
    -William of Occam-


    Original Message
    From: "Bruce Bates" <bvbates@u...>
    To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
    Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2004 2:59 AM
    Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: light and sound


    > At 06:28 AM 5/20/04 +0000, Dave Mucha wrote:
    > >--- In basicstamps@yahoogroups.com, j.belskus@c... wrote:
    > >>
    > >> Dear members,
    > >>
    > >> Would someone have ideas on how to connect
    > >> a 120+ W light and speaker? My idea is to make
    > >> an alarm for my wife that turns on the light slowly
    > >> along with volume on the speaker. I've got all the
    > >> timing and alarm stuff, but how do I vary control on
    > >> the light, like a dimmer? And how do I interface with
    > >> real 120v power from the wall?
    > >>
    > >> Thanks much for you thoughts.
    > >>
    > >> Jason
    > >
    > >
    > >I know others will offer more conventional ways, but just for fun,
    > >you can power a regualar incandescent light with DC.
    > >
    > >And, if you use DC, you can use a pulse width control to run that
    > >from a very low cost MOSFET.
    > >
    > >You will not get the same brightness as a 120VAC light, but it is fun
    > >to try different things.
    > >
    > >
    > >Dave
    > Just as a matter of clarification the brightness of an incandescent light
    bulb will be unaffected by whether it's powered by AC or DC so long as the
    voltage is the same. A tungsten resistor in an air-tight envelope cares less
    what kind of voltage is passing through it to make it incandesce.
    >
    > Bruce
    >
    >
    >
    > To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
    > basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
    > from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and
    Body of the message will be ignored.
    >
    > Yahoo! Groups Links
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2004-05-20 14:30
    You might find that arrays of ultrabright LEDs (such as
    www.superbrightleds.com) would be bright enough for your application,
    and easy to control with a stamp using a ULN2803 driver. A dimmer
    control could be done with PWM, as Dave suggested. I recently replaced
    a 120V bulb with a line array of green LEDs, 8000 mcd each, with a 45
    degree display angle.

    Dennis

    Original Message
    From: j.belskus@c... [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=m6P276stUeq3IuTAEdXXtbDZFoRDz-COCNhdRE_4r-S-mQQx5omn3Rx0cQWlzJVGRDvzNjFy-NG-7pk]j.belskus@c...[/url
    Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2004 9:32 PM
    To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
    Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] light and sound



    Dear members,

    Would someone have ideas on how to connect
    a 120+ W light and speaker? My idea is to make
    an alarm for my wife that turns on the light slowly
    along with volume on the speaker. I've got all the
    timing and alarm stuff, but how do I vary control on
    the light, like a dimmer? And how do I interface with
    real 120v power from the wall?

    Thanks much for you thoughts.

    Jason
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2004-05-20 14:42
    Hi Jason,

    Take a look at these kit dimmer modules, they are not that
    expensive at 21-24 dollars, would handle all of the dimming functions for
    either 120 or 240 VAC, and any of them could be interfaced to your Basic
    Stamp for control. One of them is controlled with a 0-10 VDC input, and it
    looks like the others are push-button control.

    http://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prmenbr=91&prrfnbr=3340&cgrfnbr=501&ctgys=

    http://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prmenbr=91&prrfnbr=431496&cgrfnbr=501&ctgys=

    http://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prmenbr=91&prrfnbr=431498&cgrfnbr=501&ctgys=


    This last one is more expensive at 59 dollars, but is infrared remote
    control as well.
    http://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prmenbr=91&prrfnbr=433674&cgrfnbr=501&ctgys=


    Hope you find this helpful,

    Tim



    At 09:32 PM 5/19/2004, you wrote:

    >Dear members,
    >
    >Would someone have ideas on how to connect
    >a 120+ W light and speaker? My idea is to make
    >an alarm for my wife that turns on the light slowly
    >along with volume on the speaker. I've got all the
    >timing and alarm stuff, but how do I vary control on
    >the light, like a dimmer? And how do I interface with
    >real 120v power from the wall?
    >
    >Thanks much for you thoughts.
    >
    >Jason
    >
    >
    >
    >To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
    > basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
    >from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and
    >Body of the message will be ignored.
    >
    >Yahoo! Groups Links
    >
    >
    >
    >
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2004-05-20 15:07
    I've found the X-10 'Firecracker' module to be
    very useful for this. It uses an RF connection,
    uses $15.00 off the shelf modules, and a complete
    package can be had for $25.00 from X10.

    The 'Firecracker' needs two pins to switch
    from 0 to 5 volts to control it -- it's pretty
    well documented. The X-10 modules can be dimmed,
    too.

    --- In basicstamps@yahoogroups.com, j.belskus@c... wrote:
    >
    > Dear members,
    >
    > Would someone have ideas on how to connect
    > a 120+ W light and speaker? My idea is to make
    > an alarm for my wife that turns on the light slowly
    > along with volume on the speaker. I've got all the
    > timing and alarm stuff, but how do I vary control on
    > the light, like a dimmer? And how do I interface with
    > real 120v power from the wall?
    >
    > Thanks much for you thoughts.
    >
    > Jason
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2004-05-20 15:41
    Couldn't you just use something like x10 to interface to the ac line? I
    thought you could control the light levels with x10... I'm not sure.
    David

    Original Message
    From: Mike Sokol [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=2ywepKHxtbNsG6AUb3L5VPaO6-WyvkQt1yf2gtb7WlbfYWFWZdKZnSt-RE9fh3dhYJY7syElsWXgBkWP]mike@f...[/url
    Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2004 6:45 AM
    To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
    Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: light and sound

    You can drive a 12-volt bulb from the ramped PCM output (yes, use a
    MOSFET
    to get enough current). In fact, 12-volt bulbs tend to be brighter for a
    given wattage compared to a 120-volt bulb since their smaller filaments
    run
    hotter and can be focused easier. It's probably too much trouble to
    interface into a ramped AC Triac controller with the stamp, unless
    you're
    trying for hundreds of watts of lighting.

    Mike Sokol
    mike@f...
    www.fitsandstarts.com

    " One should not increase, beyond what is necessary,
    the number of entities required to explain anything"...
    -William of Occam-


    Original Message
    From: "Bruce Bates" <bvbates@u...>
    To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
    Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2004 2:59 AM
    Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: light and sound


    > At 06:28 AM 5/20/04 +0000, Dave Mucha wrote:
    > >--- In basicstamps@yahoogroups.com, j.belskus@c... wrote:
    > >>
    > >> Dear members,
    > >>
    > >> Would someone have ideas on how to connect
    > >> a 120+ W light and speaker? My idea is to make
    > >> an alarm for my wife that turns on the light slowly
    > >> along with volume on the speaker. I've got all the
    > >> timing and alarm stuff, but how do I vary control on
    > >> the light, like a dimmer? And how do I interface with
    > >> real 120v power from the wall?
    > >>
    > >> Thanks much for you thoughts.
    > >>
    > >> Jason
    > >
    > >
    > >I know others will offer more conventional ways, but just for fun,
    > >you can power a regualar incandescent light with DC.
    > >
    > >And, if you use DC, you can use a pulse width control to run that
    > >from a very low cost MOSFET.
    > >
    > >You will not get the same brightness as a 120VAC light, but it is fun
    > >to try different things.
    > >
    > >
    > >Dave
    > Just as a matter of clarification the brightness of an incandescent
    light
    bulb will be unaffected by whether it's powered by AC or DC so long as
    the
    voltage is the same. A tungsten resistor in an air-tight envelope cares
    less
    what kind of voltage is passing through it to make it incandesce.
    >
    > Bruce
    >
    >
    >
    > To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
    > basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
    > from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject
    and
    Body of the message will be ignored.
    >
    > Yahoo! Groups Links
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >




    To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
    basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
    from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject
    and Body of the message will be ignored.

    Yahoo! Groups Links
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2004-05-20 17:29
    You're right, didn't think of X10. That's a much simpler and better idea.

    Tim


    At 07:41 AM 5/20/2004, you wrote:
    >Couldn't you just use something like x10 to interface to the ac line? I
    >thought you could control the light levels with x10... I'm not sure.
    >David
    >
    >
    Original Message
    >From: Mike Sokol [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=hl7H3GGuK9bjlx7EGywSUodFNDvwU58p1zLwMto-vPRo0CTlTUwVWHULbZkWAngZXhf21iCRBVkmg72X0Il_]mike@f...[/url
    >Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2004 6:45 AM
    >To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
    >Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: light and sound
    >
    >You can drive a 12-volt bulb from the ramped PCM output (yes, use a
    >MOSFET
    >to get enough current). In fact, 12-volt bulbs tend to be brighter for a
    >given wattage compared to a 120-volt bulb since their smaller filaments
    >run
    >hotter and can be focused easier. It's probably too much trouble to
    >interface into a ramped AC Triac controller with the stamp, unless
    >you're
    >trying for hundreds of watts of lighting.
    >
    >Mike Sokol
    >mike@f...
    >www.fitsandstarts.com
    >
    >" One should not increase, beyond what is necessary,
    >the number of entities required to explain anything"...
    >-William of Occam-
    >
    >
    >
    Original Message
    >From: "Bruce Bates" <bvbates@u...>
    >To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
    >Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2004 2:59 AM
    >Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: light and sound
    >
    >
    > > At 06:28 AM 5/20/04 +0000, Dave Mucha wrote:
    > > >--- In basicstamps@yahoogroups.com, j.belskus@c... wrote:
    > > >>
    > > >> Dear members,
    > > >>
    > > >> Would someone have ideas on how to connect
    > > >> a 120+ W light and speaker? My idea is to make
    > > >> an alarm for my wife that turns on the light slowly
    > > >> along with volume on the speaker. I've got all the
    > > >> timing and alarm stuff, but how do I vary control on
    > > >> the light, like a dimmer? And how do I interface with
    > > >> real 120v power from the wall?
    > > >>
    > > >> Thanks much for you thoughts.
    > > >>
    > > >> Jason
    > > >
    > > >
    > > >I know others will offer more conventional ways, but just for fun,
    > > >you can power a regualar incandescent light with DC.
    > > >
    > > >And, if you use DC, you can use a pulse width control to run that
    > > >from a very low cost MOSFET.
    > > >
    > > >You will not get the same brightness as a 120VAC light, but it is fun
    > > >to try different things.
    > > >
    > > >
    > > >Dave
    > > Just as a matter of clarification the brightness of an incandescent
    >light
    >bulb will be unaffected by whether it's powered by AC or DC so long as
    >the
    >voltage is the same. A tungsten resistor in an air-tight envelope cares
    >less
    >what kind of voltage is passing through it to make it incandesce.
    > >
    > > Bruce
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > > To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
    > > basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
    > > from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject
    >and
    >Body of the message will be ignored.
    > >
    > > Yahoo! Groups Links
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
    > basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
    >from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject
    >and Body of the message will be ignored.
    >
    >Yahoo! Groups Links
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
    > basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
    >from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and
    >Body of the message will be ignored.
    >
    >Yahoo! Groups Links
    >
    >
    >
    >
Sign In or Register to comment.