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Soldering perf boards — Parallax Forums

Soldering perf boards

ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
edited 2004-02-29 14:08 in General Discussion
Hello,

Does any one have any suggestions on how to solider to perf board.
Something really visual??
Never soldered before.
Thanks

Dave

Comments

  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2004-02-27 15:56
    Dave,

    I assume you mean proto-board, which has pads on one side. Perf board is
    just plastic with a bunch of holes in it.

    Soldering 101:

    Apply a LITTLE flux to the work.
    Clean tip.
    Apply tip to the work so that the tip is touching both the lead and the pad
    to be soldered << Important!
    Wait 'till the flux is sizzling. This doesn't take very long if the tip is
    positioned properly.
    Apply solder on the opposite side of the work from the iron. This makes it
    flow properly.
    Use as little solder as possible.

    Watch for what is called "dry solder". If the solder joint is gray and dull,
    redo it. It should be nice and shiny. Dry solders are caused by too low a
    temperature or movement while the solder is molten. Soldering is fun and
    easy, just practice on some junk parts. One of the ironies of electronics is
    that beginners usually have to use cheap irons, which are harder to work
    with. I have a pretty nice Weller with temp. control and so on, and boy,
    does it make soldering easier!

    Have fun,

    Jonathan

    www.madlabs.info



    Original Message
    From: "crzystamp" <crzystamp@y...>
    To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
    Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2004 10:01 PM
    Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Soldering perf boards


    > Hello,
    >
    > Does any one have any suggestions on how to solider to perf board.
    > Something really visual??
    > Never soldered before.
    > Thanks
    >
    > Dave
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    > To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
    > basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
    > from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and
    Body of the message will be ignored.
    >
    > Yahoo! Groups Links
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2004-02-27 18:29
    Another idea is to wear reading glasses or buy some of those cheap 2x
    magnifying glasses from a pharmacy over the counter.
    I am not as young as I used to be, and visually being able to see the solder
    joint at a higher magnification really helps.
    A soldering vise is another really usefull tool. Something to hold the parts
    as you hold the solder and soldering iron. Panavise is a well known company,
    but anything will work that can hold the parts for you.
    -Kerry


    At 07:56 AM 2/27/04 -0800, you wrote:
    >Dave,
    >
    >I assume you mean proto-board, which has pads on one side. Perf board is
    >just plastic with a bunch of holes in it.
    >
    >Soldering 101:
    >
    >Apply a LITTLE flux to the work.
    >Clean tip.
    >Apply tip to the work so that the tip is touching both the lead and the pad
    >to be soldered << Important!
    >Wait 'till the flux is sizzling. This doesn't take very long if the tip is
    >positioned properly.
    >Apply solder on the opposite side of the work from the iron. This makes it
    >flow properly.
    >Use as little solder as possible.
    >
    >Watch for what is called "dry solder". If the solder joint is gray and dull,
    >redo it. It should be nice and shiny. Dry solders are caused by too low a
    >temperature or movement while the solder is molten. Soldering is fun and
    >easy, just practice on some junk parts. One of the ironies of electronics is
    >that beginners usually have to use cheap irons, which are harder to work
    >with. I have a pretty nice Weller with temp. control and so on, and boy,
    >does it make soldering easier!
    >
    >Have fun,
    >
    >Jonathan
    >
    >www.madlabs.info
    >
    >
    >
    >
    Original Message
    >From: "crzystamp" <crzystamp@y...>
    >To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
    >Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2004 10:01 PM
    >Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Soldering perf boards
    >
    >
    >> Hello,
    >>
    >> Does any one have any suggestions on how to solider to perf board.
    >> Something really visual??
    >> Never soldered before.
    >> Thanks
    >>
    >> Dave
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
    >> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
    >> from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and
    >Body of the message will be ignored.
    >>
    >> Yahoo! Groups Links
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >
    >
    >
    >To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
    > basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
    >from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and
    Body of the message will be ignored.
    >
    >Yahoo! Groups Links
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    Very respectfully, your obedient servant.
    Brig. Gen. Johnston Pettigrew

    Admin@M...
    WWW server hosting [url=Http://mntnweb.com]Http://mntnweb.com[/url]
    Kerry Barlow
    p.o. box 21
    kirkwood ny
    13795
    607-775-1575
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2004-02-27 22:54
    --- In basicstamps@yahoogroups.com, "crzystamp" <crzystamp@y...> wrote:
    > Hello,
    >
    > Does any one have any suggestions on how to solider to perf board.
    > Something really visual??
    > Never soldered before.
    > Thanks
    >
    > Dave

    Do a web search on "basic soldering." You'll find lots of information
    and illustrations, too.

    Stephen Weller
    American. Veteran. Patriot.
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2004-02-28 00:28
    Flux....do you use flux on all your solder joints?

    The Rosin core solders sorta take care of that for ya doesn't it?
    I only use flux on large items that tend to wick away a lot of heat.

    A clean iron tip will definately give you clean joints.

    Before putting the iron against the pad/post be sure to put a small bit of
    solder on the iron as this will help the heat transfer and seed the whole
    solder thing....

    sb
    Original Message
    From: "Jonathan Peakall" <jpeakall@p...>
    To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
    Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 10:56 AM
    Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Soldering perf boards


    > Dave,
    >
    > I assume you mean proto-board, which has pads on one side. Perf board is
    > just plastic with a bunch of holes in it.
    >
    > Soldering 101:
    >
    > Apply a LITTLE flux to the work.
    > Clean tip.
    > Apply tip to the work so that the tip is touching both the lead and the
    pad
    > to be soldered << Important!
    > Wait 'till the flux is sizzling. This doesn't take very long if the tip is
    > positioned properly.
    > Apply solder on the opposite side of the work from the iron. This makes it
    > flow properly.
    > Use as little solder as possible.
    >
    > Watch for what is called "dry solder". If the solder joint is gray and
    dull,
    > redo it. It should be nice and shiny. Dry solders are caused by too low a
    > temperature or movement while the solder is molten. Soldering is fun and
    > easy, just practice on some junk parts. One of the ironies of electronics
    is
    > that beginners usually have to use cheap irons, which are harder to work
    > with. I have a pretty nice Weller with temp. control and so on, and boy,
    > does it make soldering easier!
    >
    > Have fun,
    >
    > Jonathan
    >
    > www.madlabs.info
    >
    >
    >
    >
    Original Message
    > From: "crzystamp" <crzystamp@y...>
    > To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
    > Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2004 10:01 PM
    > Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Soldering perf boards
    >
    >
    > > Hello,
    > >
    > > Does any one have any suggestions on how to solider to perf board.
    > > Something really visual??
    > > Never soldered before.
    > > Thanks
    > >
    > > Dave
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > > To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
    > > basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
    > > from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject
    and
    > Body of the message will be ignored.
    > >
    > > Yahoo! Groups Links
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    >
    >
    >
    > To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
    > basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
    > from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and
    Body of the message will be ignored.
    >
    > Yahoo! Groups Links
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2004-02-28 09:34
    On 27/2/04 18:29, Kerry Barlow at admin@m... wrote:

    > At 07:56 AM 2/27/04 -0800, you wrote:
    >> Dave,
    >>
    >> I assume you mean proto-board, which has pads on one side. Perf board is
    >> just plastic with a bunch of holes in it.
    >>
    >> Soldering 101:

    (Snipped and bottom-posted)

    <http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/solderfaq.htm>

    --
    Cheers,

    Derryck
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2004-02-29 02:54
    A few more soldering suggestions:

    NEVER use any sort of acid-cored solder. Use on Rosin-Core 60/40 for circuit
    board soldering. Acid core will literally rot your connections in a matter
    of hours of days.

    ALWAYS use a hot enough soldering pencil. More circuits are ruined by slow
    heat. Make the fires hot, as they say.

    GROUNDED irons are probably a good idea. On occasion I've had the heating
    element short out in a cheap iron, which can dump the full 120 Volts AC into
    the circuit. Not a pretty site.

    CLEAN your leads first. Solder doesn't stick to surfaces, it needs to bond
    at a molecular level. Mechanical bonds will turn intermittent, especially
    with changing temperatures and vibration.

    HOLD STILL while the solder joint cools. It should look like a bead of
    mercury when you're done. If it has a cloudy or grainy appearance, then the
    joint moved and crystallized. Reheat and start over again.

    Mike Sokol
    mike@f...
    www.fitsandstarts.com


    " One should not increase, beyond what is necessary,
    the number of entities required to explain anything"...
    -William of Occam-


    Original Message
    From: "wun_fungi" <sweller@a...>
    To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
    Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 5:54 PM
    Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: Soldering perf boards


    > --- In basicstamps@yahoogroups.com, "crzystamp" <crzystamp@y...> wrote:
    > > Hello,
    > >
    > > Does any one have any suggestions on how to solider to perf board.
    > > Something really visual??
    > > Never soldered before.
    > > Thanks
    > >
    > > Dave
    >
    > Do a web search on "basic soldering." You'll find lots of information
    > and illustrations, too.
    >
    > Stephen Weller
    > American. Veteran. Patriot.
    >
    >
    >
    > To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
    > basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
    > from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and
    Body of the message will be ignored.
    >
    > Yahoo! Groups Links
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2004-02-29 07:02
    Sb,

    Yeah, I do. Probably overkill, but then I can't remember the last bum joint
    I had. I use a lot of surplus and and salvaged parts, and so they can be
    less than perfectly clean/bright. I also find I can use less solder when
    using flux, which makes for less solder bridges etc. It takes very little,
    and then I wash the back of the board with alcohol and a toothbrush.

    Jonathan

    www.madlabs.info






    Original Message
    From: "SB" <steve.brady@r...>
    To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
    Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 4:28 PM
    Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Soldering perf boards


    > Flux....do you use flux on all your solder joints?
    >
    > The Rosin core solders sorta take care of that for ya doesn't it?
    > I only use flux on large items that tend to wick away a lot of heat.
    >
    > A clean iron tip will definately give you clean joints.
    >
    > Before putting the iron against the pad/post be sure to put a small bit of
    > solder on the iron as this will help the heat transfer and seed the whole
    > solder thing....
    >
    > sb
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2004-02-29 14:08
    Well, I have noticed I go through a LOT of solder.

    I use a wet sponge to clean the tip....not sure if it's dirty water (on
    well) but the tip has to be cleaned every minute it seems.

    I've use many a different types of soldering irons and don't have a
    preference in make...although PACE is good but $$...but I'd recommend to
    ANYONE to be sure they get a variable soldering station.
    I don't use 'sticks' anymore....unles I'm in the field, but then I'd use a
    butane one.

    Butanes are awesome....in the summer without a breeze. I really have to
    build a shield up here in teh winter....seems to be a pain...but oh well.

    Anyhow....I only use flux on large items and use a flux cleaner afterwords.
    I clean all the rosin/flus residue off the the board after I'm done.
    I like using erasers on new boards before I solder too. Get that bit of
    oxidation off before I get started...

    Sorry guys....just woke up and I'm prone to rambling....blah blah blah!!
    haha
    Original Message
    From: "Jonathan Peakall" <jpeakall@p...>
    To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
    Sent: Sunday, February 29, 2004 2:02 AM
    Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Soldering perf boards


    > Sb,
    >
    > Yeah, I do. Probably overkill, but then I can't remember the last bum
    joint
    > I had. I use a lot of surplus and and salvaged parts, and so they can be
    > less than perfectly clean/bright. I also find I can use less solder when
    > using flux, which makes for less solder bridges etc. It takes very little,
    > and then I wash the back of the board with alcohol and a toothbrush.
    >
    > Jonathan
    >
    > www.madlabs.info
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    Original Message
    > From: "SB" <steve.brady@r...>
    > To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
    > Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 4:28 PM
    > Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Soldering perf boards
    >
    >
    > > Flux....do you use flux on all your solder joints?
    > >
    > > The Rosin core solders sorta take care of that for ya doesn't it?
    > > I only use flux on large items that tend to wick away a lot of heat.
    > >
    > > A clean iron tip will definately give you clean joints.
    > >
    > > Before putting the iron against the pad/post be sure to put a small bit
    of
    > > solder on the iron as this will help the heat transfer and seed the
    whole
    > > solder thing....
    > >
    > > sb
    >
    >
    >
    >
    > To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
    > basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
    > from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and
    Body of the message will be ignored.
    >
    > Yahoo! Groups Links
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
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