tooling telescoping tube - Jewelers saw - mills
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Hi Tracy,
A Jewelers saw is like a circular saw blade. the difference is that
a jewelwers saw will come in diameters starting around 1 inch and go
up to 15 inches or something.
it does not cut sideways so will not cut any wider than the teeth.
and if you do not get one hollow ground (they grind a little off the
sides to once the teeth get into the part, the sides don't touch)
they are used for tubing.
Holding the the part is the hard part, and if you do multiples, I'd
make a jig. if you can't hold it in the tool post, you need to make
a jig anyway.
For a jewelers saw, get it the width you need, you will not be able
to take 2 precision cuts as easy as one cut.
regarding endmills.
use a 2 or 4 flute end mill and run it at slower speeds. and use
some type of cutting oil. stainless is much harder to cut than steel
and will heat up and ruin the bit and harden so it will be hard to
cut. if you can set up an I-V drip tube (like in M.A.S.H.) and let
the oil drip on the cutter, that would be great.
Bottom line, take up the offer to have them laser cut. best job you
can get, perfect finish.
I laid out a CAD drawing of a tube holder and arbor if you wanted to
do it that way.
Dave
--- In basicstamps@yahoogroups.com, Tracy Allen <tracy@e...> wrote:
> Thanks for all of the suggestions.
>
> I looked at the end mills in McMaster-Carr catalog, and find that
> most of the ones less than 1/8" diameter are carbide. (=brittle?
You
> break it you buy $$ another.) There are a couple in highspeed steel
> with TiN surface hardening. But I would still not know what to buy
> one, two three, four flute, straight flute spiral flute? There are
> also woodruff key cutters of the right thickness, and some small
> slitting saws. Some of you also suggested grinding tools (at high
> speed?) and a jeweller's saw. (is that a kind of blade?).
>
> I don't know how fast to run the tools for SS. Do you go in a
little
> ways and then go along the length of the cut, and then a little
> deeper along the length, or do you go all the way through at one
end,
> and then cut the length all the way through? With cutting oil?
I'm
> more used to brass and to plastic.
>
> I do want a nice smooth, straight cut. I know the workpiece has to
> be held very rigid. I do have a lathe, an old Myford (not
numerical
> by a long shot!). It has a nice smooth cross-slide, and I also
have
> a vertical slide, and a v-groove holder and assorted dogs and
clamps.
>
> -- best regards,
> Tracy
A Jewelers saw is like a circular saw blade. the difference is that
a jewelwers saw will come in diameters starting around 1 inch and go
up to 15 inches or something.
it does not cut sideways so will not cut any wider than the teeth.
and if you do not get one hollow ground (they grind a little off the
sides to once the teeth get into the part, the sides don't touch)
they are used for tubing.
Holding the the part is the hard part, and if you do multiples, I'd
make a jig. if you can't hold it in the tool post, you need to make
a jig anyway.
For a jewelers saw, get it the width you need, you will not be able
to take 2 precision cuts as easy as one cut.
regarding endmills.
use a 2 or 4 flute end mill and run it at slower speeds. and use
some type of cutting oil. stainless is much harder to cut than steel
and will heat up and ruin the bit and harden so it will be hard to
cut. if you can set up an I-V drip tube (like in M.A.S.H.) and let
the oil drip on the cutter, that would be great.
Bottom line, take up the offer to have them laser cut. best job you
can get, perfect finish.
I laid out a CAD drawing of a tube holder and arbor if you wanted to
do it that way.
Dave
--- In basicstamps@yahoogroups.com, Tracy Allen <tracy@e...> wrote:
> Thanks for all of the suggestions.
>
> I looked at the end mills in McMaster-Carr catalog, and find that
> most of the ones less than 1/8" diameter are carbide. (=brittle?
You
> break it you buy $$ another.) There are a couple in highspeed steel
> with TiN surface hardening. But I would still not know what to buy
> one, two three, four flute, straight flute spiral flute? There are
> also woodruff key cutters of the right thickness, and some small
> slitting saws. Some of you also suggested grinding tools (at high
> speed?) and a jeweller's saw. (is that a kind of blade?).
>
> I don't know how fast to run the tools for SS. Do you go in a
little
> ways and then go along the length of the cut, and then a little
> deeper along the length, or do you go all the way through at one
end,
> and then cut the length all the way through? With cutting oil?
I'm
> more used to brass and to plastic.
>
> I do want a nice smooth, straight cut. I know the workpiece has to
> be held very rigid. I do have a lathe, an old Myford (not
numerical
> by a long shot!). It has a nice smooth cross-slide, and I also
have
> a vertical slide, and a v-groove holder and assorted dogs and
clamps.
>
> -- best regards,
> Tracy