six am, fed up, sensors chatter
Hi, I could really use some input here guys.
using radio scrap 276-137A IR "digital" ttl sensors, transmitters
pulsed off a pak8 at 40khz, they chatter like mad! from about a foot
away output will read 4.95 volts....bring a white sheet closer
gradually and the second the voltage starts to drop the chatter
begins and won't end until about one inch away when the reading seems
to stabalize at zero volts.
my supplies have caps for filtering which make no difference at all,
nor does having caps directly at the power/ground of the sensor. I
just finished testing a schmitt trigger, .5V hysteresis, lm339 quad
comparator..made no difference at all? i then changed the reference
voltage on it to 2.5V...it brought the chatter out further, i can't
go using something crazy like 2.5Volts hysteresis this robot has to
navigate a narrow maze, i'll only have a few inches on either side,
sometimes less.
My code's based to have the robot continue in a given direction,
until the state of the sensors change, this should allow for very
smooth operation, but with this chatter it won't be solving any mazes
any time soon. I'm out of ideas guys. If you have any tricks or
tweaks or ideas up your sleeve i'd love to hear about it.
Deadline is two weeks away
Thanks
using radio scrap 276-137A IR "digital" ttl sensors, transmitters
pulsed off a pak8 at 40khz, they chatter like mad! from about a foot
away output will read 4.95 volts....bring a white sheet closer
gradually and the second the voltage starts to drop the chatter
begins and won't end until about one inch away when the reading seems
to stabalize at zero volts.
my supplies have caps for filtering which make no difference at all,
nor does having caps directly at the power/ground of the sensor. I
just finished testing a schmitt trigger, .5V hysteresis, lm339 quad
comparator..made no difference at all? i then changed the reference
voltage on it to 2.5V...it brought the chatter out further, i can't
go using something crazy like 2.5Volts hysteresis this robot has to
navigate a narrow maze, i'll only have a few inches on either side,
sometimes less.
My code's based to have the robot continue in a given direction,
until the state of the sensors change, this should allow for very
smooth operation, but with this chatter it won't be solving any mazes
any time soon. I'm out of ideas guys. If you have any tricks or
tweaks or ideas up your sleeve i'd love to hear about it.
Deadline is two weeks away
Thanks
Comments
ones we get from Digikey. Do you have a pull up on the sensor's output?
Is it possible you have a ground loop? Connect a meter set to measure
low voltages <1V's black lead to ground and go measure other points on
your circuit that are supposed to be ground. I have also heard that
grounding the metal case of the sensor (in addition to the ground pin)
is a good idea.
This is from a Stamp list post in 1997:
> Radio Shack sell an IR Retector module, catalog #276-137. However, it
> comes in at least three variants, shown on the blister pack as
276-137,
> 276-137A and 276-137B. This module is referenced in the BASIC Stamp I
> application note #11, Infrared Communications.
>
> I have tried two of the 137B versions, and both were defective issuing
> stray output pulses with no IR input, even with good shielding and
> bypassing in a dark room. The 137B units were bopth marked as
> "EVERLIGHT IRM 8100-3-M"
>
> A unit marked 137 (no letter) unit was marked as a Sharp GP1U52X, and
> works fine. The metal shielding can around it is a bit diffent from
the
> 137A and 137B untis I've seen in the stores.
>
> Also, the fax-back documentation from Radio Shack implies that the
unit
> provides an output pluse (+5 v) when a IR carrier is present.
Actually,
> the output is inverted, with output normally high and going to zero
when
> a carrier is present.
Here is a quote from the Basic Stamp app note that uses the same sensor:
If you find that your IR receiver occasionally produces "garbage
characters" when the transmitter is off, try grounding the metal case of
the GP1U52X. It is somewhat sensitive to stray signals. If you build the
transmitter and receiver on the same prototyping board for testing, you
are almost certain to have this problem. Bypass all power connections
with 0.1-µF capacitors and use a single-point ground. And be encour-
aged by the fact that the circuit works much better in its intended
application, with the transmitter and receiver several feet apart.
I also wonder if the 50MHz clock from the PAK is getting into the rest
of the circuit? Is there any way you could breadboard the PAK-VIII on a
different breadboard and just run power, ground, data, clock, and the
outputs over to the "main" board?
Al Williams
AWC
* Floating point A/D
http://www.al-williams.com/awce/pak9.htm
>
Original Message
> From: cbielek [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=r4a9-42YzRHC14UzjHK-309SSGSceb97-f553MnnECUJDUVmIoX1fislMDhFnVAIA0IkRRXfIDWL]cbielek@y...[/url
> Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 5:01 AM
> To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] six am, fed up, sensors chatter
>
>
> Hi, I could really use some input here guys.
>
> using radio scrap 276-137A IR "digital" ttl sensors, transmitters
> pulsed off a pak8 at 40khz, they chatter like mad! from about a foot
> away output will read 4.95 volts....bring a white sheet closer
> gradually and the second the voltage starts to drop the chatter
> begins and won't end until about one inch away when the reading seems
> to stabalize at zero volts.
>
> my supplies have caps for filtering which make no difference at all,
> nor does having caps directly at the power/ground of the sensor. I
> just finished testing a schmitt trigger, .5V hysteresis, lm339 quad
> comparator..made no difference at all? i then changed the reference
> voltage on it to 2.5V...it brought the chatter out further, i can't
> go using something crazy like 2.5Volts hysteresis this robot has to
> navigate a narrow maze, i'll only have a few inches on either side,
> sometimes less.
>
> My code's based to have the robot continue in a given direction,
> until the state of the sensors change, this should allow for very
> smooth operation, but with this chatter it won't be solving any mazes
> any time soon. I'm out of ideas guys. If you have any tricks or
> tweaks or ideas up your sleeve i'd love to hear about it.
> Deadline is two weeks away
> Thanks
>
>
>
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the
> Subject and Body of the message will be ignored.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
across the IR detector output & ground cleared it up.
+ -
Detector Output
| |
Gnd
|
I/O-Pin sampling detector output
Regards,
-Bruce
webmaster@r...
http://www.rentron.com
Original Message
From: "cbielek" <cbielek@y...>
To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 4:00 AM
Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] six am, fed up, sensors chatter
> Hi, I could really use some input here guys.
>
> using radio scrap 276-137A IR "digital" ttl sensors, transmitters
> pulsed off a pak8 at 40khz, they chatter like mad! from about a foot
> away output will read 4.95 volts....bring a white sheet closer
> gradually and the second the voltage starts to drop the chatter
> begins and won't end until about one inch away when the reading seems
> to stabalize at zero volts.
>
> my supplies have caps for filtering which make no difference at all,
> nor does having caps directly at the power/ground of the sensor. I
> just finished testing a schmitt trigger, .5V hysteresis, lm339 quad
> comparator..made no difference at all? i then changed the reference
> voltage on it to 2.5V...it brought the chatter out further, i can't
> go using something crazy like 2.5Volts hysteresis this robot has to
> navigate a narrow maze, i'll only have a few inches on either side,
> sometimes less.
>
> My code's based to have the robot continue in a given direction,
> until the state of the sensors change, this should allow for very
> smooth operation, but with this chatter it won't be solving any mazes
> any time soon. I'm out of ideas guys. If you have any tricks or
> tweaks or ideas up your sleeve i'd love to hear about it.
> Deadline is two weeks away
> Thanks
>
>
>
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and Body
of the message will be ignored.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
input port? looks like yer tying the stamps input to
ground. maybe the diagram shifted over.
Either way, i cap'd the sucker and it didn't make a
difference, thanks alot for the info, it's all good
help.
Chris
--- "B. Reynolds" <breyno1@m...> wrote:
> I had this same problem, and found a 10uF capacitor
> strapped
> across the IR detector output & ground cleared it
> up.
> + -
> Detector Output
| |
Gnd
> |
> I/O-Pin sampling detector
> output
>
>
> Regards,
>
> -Bruce
> webmaster@r...
> http://www.rentron.com
>
>
Original Message
> From: "cbielek" <cbielek@y...>
> To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 4:00 AM
> Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] six am, fed up, sensors
> chatter
>
>
> > Hi, I could really use some input here guys.
> >
> > using radio scrap 276-137A IR "digital" ttl
> sensors, transmitters
> > pulsed off a pak8 at 40khz, they chatter like mad!
> from about a foot
> > away output will read 4.95 volts....bring a white
> sheet closer
> > gradually and the second the voltage starts to
> drop the chatter
> > begins and won't end until about one inch away
> when the reading seems
> > to stabalize at zero volts.
> >
> > my supplies have caps for filtering which make no
> difference at all,
> > nor does having caps directly at the power/ground
> of the sensor. I
> > just finished testing a schmitt trigger, .5V
> hysteresis, lm339 quad
> > comparator..made no difference at all? i then
> changed the reference
> > voltage on it to 2.5V...it brought the chatter out
> further, i can't
> > go using something crazy like 2.5Volts hysteresis
> this robot has to
> > navigate a narrow maze, i'll only have a few
> inches on either side,
> > sometimes less.
> >
> > My code's based to have the robot continue in a
> given direction,
> > until the state of the sensors change, this should
> allow for very
> > smooth operation, but with this chatter it won't
> be solving any mazes
> > any time soon. I'm out of ideas guys. If you have
> any tricks or
> > tweaks or ideas up your sleeve i'd love to hear
> about it.
> > Deadline is two weeks away
> > Thanks
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> > basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > from the same email address that you subscribed.
> Text in the Subject and Body of the message will be
> ignored.
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> from the same email address that you subscribed.
> Text in the Subject and Body of the message will be
> ignored.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
Web-hosting solutions for home and business! http://website.yahoo.ca
on
your circuit that are supposed to be ground."
-black lead right to battery pack, i get 0.06V??
noticed this before in my detector's output, figured
it was simply as far as it switched though, but it's
everywhere. I can't see where it's comming from. This
would be a "ground loop"?
-The metal cases actually come with a "pin" that's
pressed up against the ground pin. It is only pressed
though, i had soldered them all to avoid such
problems. so case is soldered to ground pin.
I have also heard that
grounding the metal case of the sensor (in addition to
the ground pin)
is a good idea.
-Used these same detectors before with just the stamp
and np, but i wasn't giving them continous IR either,
just a 1ms freqout.
-I can't explain this but my schmitt trigger's output
displays the very same voltage on the detector output,
which looks analog, maybe the chatter is too fast for
my VOM.
-I'll try prototyping the pak on its board it's all
on breadboard at this point.
Thanks Alot, get back to ya on that one.
--- Al Williams <alw@a...> wrote:
> I've heard those "ice cube" sensors are finicky. I
> like the Panasonic
> ones we get from Digikey. Do you have a pull up on
> the sensor's output?
> Is it possible you have a ground loop? Connect a
> meter set to measure
> low voltages <1V's black lead to ground and go
> measure other points on
> your circuit that are supposed to be ground. I have
> also heard that
> grounding the metal case of the sensor (in addition
> to the ground pin)
> is a good idea.
>
> This is from a Stamp list post in 1997:
> > Radio Shack sell an IR Retector module, catalog
> #276-137. However, it
> > comes in at least three variants, shown on the
> blister pack as
> 276-137,
> > 276-137A and 276-137B. This module is referenced
> in the BASIC Stamp I
> > application note #11, Infrared Communications.
> >
> > I have tried two of the 137B versions, and both
> were defective issuing
> > stray output pulses with no IR input, even with
> good shielding and
> > bypassing in a dark room. The 137B units were
> bopth marked as
> > "EVERLIGHT IRM 8100-3-M"
> >
> > A unit marked 137 (no letter) unit was marked as a
> Sharp GP1U52X, and
> > works fine. The metal shielding can around it is a
> bit diffent from
> the
> > 137A and 137B untis I've seen in the stores.
> >
> > Also, the fax-back documentation from Radio Shack
> implies that the
> unit
> > provides an output pluse (+5 v) when a IR carrier
> is present.
> Actually,
> > the output is inverted, with output normally high
> and going to zero
> when
> > a carrier is present.
>
> Here is a quote from the Basic Stamp app note that
> uses the same sensor:
> If you find that your IR receiver occasionally
> produces "garbage
> characters" when the transmitter is off, try
> grounding the metal case of
> the GP1U52X. It is somewhat sensitive to stray
> signals. If you build the
> transmitter and receiver on the same prototyping
> board for testing, you
> are almost certain to have this problem. Bypass all
> power connections
> with 0.1-µF capacitors and use a single-point
> ground. And be encour-
> aged by the fact that the circuit works much better
> in its intended
> application, with the transmitter and receiver
> several feet apart.
>
>
>
> I also wonder if the 50MHz clock from the PAK is
> getting into the rest
> of the circuit? Is there any way you could
> breadboard the PAK-VIII on a
> different breadboard and just run power, ground,
> data, clock, and the
> outputs over to the "main" board?
>
> Al Williams
> AWC
> * Floating point A/D
> http://www.al-williams.com/awce/pak9.htm
>
>
>
> >
Original Message
> > From: cbielek [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=Xs8snL2K1el0ABbpjpCQySeCI6EQt0oMfjlpaGr9cgQbpoJSByYGgxoQyZn_SuMPNsaLjVSjzhhZQfo]cbielek@y...[/url
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 5:01 AM
> > To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] six am, fed up, sensors
> chatter
> >
> >
> > Hi, I could really use some input here guys.
> >
> > using radio scrap 276-137A IR "digital" ttl
> sensors, transmitters
> > pulsed off a pak8 at 40khz, they chatter like mad!
> from about a foot
> > away output will read 4.95 volts....bring a white
> sheet closer
> > gradually and the second the voltage starts to
> drop the chatter
> > begins and won't end until about one inch away
> when the reading seems
> > to stabalize at zero volts.
> >
> > my supplies have caps for filtering which make no
> difference at all,
> > nor does having caps directly at the power/ground
> of the sensor. I
> > just finished testing a schmitt trigger, .5V
> hysteresis, lm339 quad
> > comparator..made no difference at all? i then
> changed the reference
> > voltage on it to 2.5V...it brought the chatter out
> further, i can't
> > go using something crazy like 2.5Volts hysteresis
> this robot has to
> > navigate a narrow maze, i'll only have a few
> inches on either side,
> > sometimes less.
> >
> > My code's based to have the robot continue in a
> given direction,
> > until the state of the sensors change, this should
> allow for very
> > smooth operation, but with this chatter it won't
> be solving any mazes
> > any time soon. I'm out of ideas guys. If you have
> any tricks or
> > tweaks or ideas up your sleeve i'd love to hear
> about it.
> > Deadline is two weeks away
> > Thanks
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> > basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > from the same email address that you subscribed.
> Text in the
> > Subject and Body of the message will be ignored.
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
>
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> from the same email address that you subscribed.
> Text in the Subject and Body of the message will be
> ignored.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
Web-hosting solutions for home and business! http://website.yahoo.ca
sensors driving a STAMP; and the STAMP driving several
servos. This particular issue wound up being the
sharing of the same DC source.
His gear worked much better when he split the battery
supply for the electronics, and provided a separate DC
pack for servos.
Jim
> "1V's black lead to ground and go measure other points
> on
> your circuit that are supposed to be ground."
>
> -black lead right to battery pack, i get 0.06V??
> noticed this before in my detector's output, figured
> it was simply as far as it switched though, but it's
> everywhere. I can't see where it's comming from. This
> would be a "ground loop"?
>
> -The metal cases actually come with a "pin" that's
> pressed up against the ground pin. It is only pressed
> though, i had soldered them all to avoid such
> problems. so case is soldered to ground pin.
>
>
>
> I have also heard that
> grounding the metal case of the sensor (in addition to
> the ground pin)
> is a good idea.
>
> -Used these same detectors before with just the stamp
> and np, but i wasn't giving them continous IR either,
> just a 1ms freqout.
>
> -I can't explain this but my schmitt trigger's output
> displays the very same voltage on the detector output,
> which looks analog, maybe the chatter is too fast for
> my VOM.
>
> -I'll try prototyping the pak on its board it's all
> on breadboard at this point.
>
> Thanks Alot, get back to ya on that one.
>
> --- Al Williams <alw@a...> wrote:
> > I've heard those "ice cube" sensors are finicky. I
> > like the Panasonic
> > ones we get from Digikey. Do you have a pull up on
> > the sensor's output?
> > Is it possible you have a ground loop? Connect a
> > meter set to measure
> > low voltages <1V's black lead to ground and go
> > measure other points on
> > your circuit that are supposed to be ground. I have
> > also heard that
> > grounding the metal case of the sensor (in addition
> > to the ground pin)
> > is a good idea.
> >
> > This is from a Stamp list post in 1997:
> > > Radio Shack sell an IR Retector module, catalog
> > #276-137. However, it
> > > comes in at least three variants, shown on the
> > blister pack as
> > 276-137,
> > > 276-137A and 276-137B. This module is referenced
> > in the BASIC Stamp I
> > > application note #11, Infrared Communications.
> > >
> > > I have tried two of the 137B versions, and both
> > were defective issuing
> > > stray output pulses with no IR input, even with
> > good shielding and
> > > bypassing in a dark room. The 137B units were
> > bopth marked as
> > > "EVERLIGHT IRM 8100-3-M"
> > >
> > > A unit marked 137 (no letter) unit was marked as a
> > Sharp GP1U52X, and
> > > works fine. The metal shielding can around it is a
> > bit diffent from
> > the
> > > 137A and 137B untis I've seen in the stores.
> > >
> > > Also, the fax-back documentation from Radio Shack
> > implies that the
> > unit
> > > provides an output pluse (+5 v) when a IR carrier
> > is present.
> > Actually,
> > > the output is inverted, with output normally high
> > and going to zero
> > when
> > > a carrier is present.
> >
> > Here is a quote from the Basic Stamp app note that
> > uses the same sensor:
> > If you find that your IR receiver occasionally
> > produces "garbage
> > characters" when the transmitter is off, try
> > grounding the metal case of
> > the GP1U52X. It is somewhat sensitive to stray
> > signals. If you build the
> > transmitter and receiver on the same prototyping
> > board for testing, you
> > are almost certain to have this problem. Bypass all
> > power connections
> > with 0.1-µF capacitors and use a single-point
> > ground. And be encour-
> > aged by the fact that the circuit works much better
> > in its intended
> > application, with the transmitter and receiver
> > several feet apart.
> >
> >
> >
> > I also wonder if the 50MHz clock from the PAK is
> > getting into the rest
> > of the circuit? Is there any way you could
> > breadboard the PAK-VIII on a
> > different breadboard and just run power, ground,
> > data, clock, and the
> > outputs over to the "main" board?
> >
> > Al Williams
> > AWC
> > * Floating point A/D
> > http://www.al-williams.com/awce/pak9.htm
> >
> >
> >
> > >
Original Message
> > > From: cbielek [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=oI_Od_gV55eulg_iPulUAzbR_OcO0T3IPyynbuKB0xBooId2iRiDdk10A_Q-zmth0_YzqObFXg]cbielek@y...[/url
> > > Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 5:01 AM
> > > To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] six am, fed up, sensors
> > chatter
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi, I could really use some input here guys.
> > >
> > > using radio scrap 276-137A IR "digital" ttl
> > sensors, transmitters
> > > pulsed off a pak8 at 40khz, they chatter like mad!
> > from about a foot
> > > away output will read 4.95 volts....bring a white
> > sheet closer
> > > gradually and the second the voltage starts to
> > drop the chatter
> > > begins and won't end until about one inch away
> > when the reading seems
> > > to stabalize at zero volts.
> > >
> > > my supplies have caps for filtering which make no
> > difference at all,
> > > nor does having caps directly at the power/ground
> > of the sensor. I
> > > just finished testing a schmitt trigger, .5V
> > hysteresis, lm339 quad
> > > comparator..made no difference at all? i then
> > changed the reference
> > > voltage on it to 2.5V...it brought the chatter out
> > further, i can't
> > > go using something crazy like 2.5Volts hysteresis
> > this robot has to
> > > navigate a narrow maze, i'll only have a few
> > inches on either side,
> > > sometimes less.
> > >
> > > My code's based to have the robot continue in a
> > given direction,
> > > until the state of the sensors change, this should
> > allow for very
> > > smooth operation, but with this chatter it won't
> > be solving any mazes
> > > any time soon. I'm out of ideas guys. If you have
> > any tricks or
> > > tweaks or ideas up your sleeve i'd love to hear
> > about it.
> > > Deadline is two weeks away
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> > > basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > from the same email address that you subscribed.
> > Text in the
> > > Subject and Body of the message will be ignored.
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> >
> >
> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> > basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > from the same email address that you subscribed.
> > Text in the Subject and Body of the message will be
> > ignored.
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> Web-hosting solutions for home and business! http://website.yahoo.ca
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and Body
> of the message will be ignored.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
connected
together yes??
I did use seperate five volt regulator ic's, 7805's.
i'll have several in my robot just to supply enough
current. so my four servo's are on one five volt reg
of their own, they have a common ground with the other
regulator going to a single battery pack.
what do you think?
--- kvo@a... wrote:
> I helped a local fellow debug a circuit containing
> IR
> sensors driving a STAMP; and the STAMP driving
> several
> servos. This particular issue wound up being the
> sharing of the same DC source.
>
> His gear worked much better when he split the
> battery
> supply for the electronics, and provided a separate
> DC
> pack for servos.
>
> Jim
> > "1V's black lead to ground and go measure other
> points
> > on
> > your circuit that are supposed to be ground."
> >
> > -black lead right to battery pack, i get 0.06V??
> > noticed this before in my detector's output,
> figured
> > it was simply as far as it switched though, but
> it's
> > everywhere. I can't see where it's comming from.
> This
> > would be a "ground loop"?
> >
> > -The metal cases actually come with a "pin" that's
> > pressed up against the ground pin. It is only
> pressed
> > though, i had soldered them all to avoid such
> > problems. so case is soldered to ground pin.
> >
> >
> >
> > I have also heard that
> > grounding the metal case of the sensor (in
> addition to
> > the ground pin)
> > is a good idea.
> >
> > -Used these same detectors before with just the
> stamp
> > and np, but i wasn't giving them continous IR
> either,
> > just a 1ms freqout.
> >
> > -I can't explain this but my schmitt trigger's
> output
> > displays the very same voltage on the detector
> output,
> > which looks analog, maybe the chatter is too fast
> for
> > my VOM.
> >
> > -I'll try prototyping the pak on its board it's
> all
> > on breadboard at this point.
> >
> > Thanks Alot, get back to ya on that one.
> >
> > --- Al Williams <alw@a...> wrote:
> > > I've heard those "ice cube" sensors are finicky.
> I
> > > like the Panasonic
> > > ones we get from Digikey. Do you have a pull up
> on
> > > the sensor's output?
> > > Is it possible you have a ground loop? Connect a
> > > meter set to measure
> > > low voltages <1V's black lead to ground and go
> > > measure other points on
> > > your circuit that are supposed to be ground. I
> have
> > > also heard that
> > > grounding the metal case of the sensor (in
> addition
> > > to the ground pin)
> > > is a good idea.
> > >
> > > This is from a Stamp list post in 1997:
> > > > Radio Shack sell an IR Retector module,
> catalog
> > > #276-137. However, it
> > > > comes in at least three variants, shown on the
> > > blister pack as
> > > 276-137,
> > > > 276-137A and 276-137B. This module is
> referenced
> > > in the BASIC Stamp I
> > > > application note #11, Infrared Communications.
> > > >
> > > > I have tried two of the 137B versions, and
> both
> > > were defective issuing
> > > > stray output pulses with no IR input, even
> with
> > > good shielding and
> > > > bypassing in a dark room. The 137B units were
> > > bopth marked as
> > > > "EVERLIGHT IRM 8100-3-M"
> > > >
> > > > A unit marked 137 (no letter) unit was marked
> as a
> > > Sharp GP1U52X, and
> > > > works fine. The metal shielding can around it
> is a
> > > bit diffent from
> > > the
> > > > 137A and 137B untis I've seen in the stores.
> > > >
> > > > Also, the fax-back documentation from Radio
> Shack
> > > implies that the
> > > unit
> > > > provides an output pluse (+5 v) when a IR
> carrier
> > > is present.
> > > Actually,
> > > > the output is inverted, with output normally
> high
> > > and going to zero
> > > when
> > > > a carrier is present.
> > >
> > > Here is a quote from the Basic Stamp app note
> that
> > > uses the same sensor:
> > > If you find that your IR receiver occasionally
> > > produces "garbage
> > > characters" when the transmitter is off, try
> > > grounding the metal case of
> > > the GP1U52X. It is somewhat sensitive to stray
> > > signals. If you build the
> > > transmitter and receiver on the same prototyping
> > > board for testing, you
> > > are almost certain to have this problem. Bypass
> all
> > > power connections
> > > with 0.1-µF capacitors and use a single-point
> > > ground. And be encour-
> > > aged by the fact that the circuit works much
> better
> > > in its intended
> > > application, with the transmitter and receiver
> > > several feet apart.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I also wonder if the 50MHz clock from the PAK is
> > > getting into the rest
> > > of the circuit? Is there any way you could
> > > breadboard the PAK-VIII on a
> > > different breadboard and just run power, ground,
> > > data, clock, and the
> > > outputs over to the "main" board?
> > >
> > > Al Williams
> > > AWC
> > > * Floating point A/D
> > > http://www.al-williams.com/awce/pak9.htm
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > >
Original Message
> > > > From: cbielek [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=thQB6dxnkckLabyUxxhsXoeYb9AMNp1SbDV58YEdRQrN-9IT4gofrnPLThaaOtGCmsc_Yzdyh7Bdnw]cbielek@y...[/url
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 5:01 AM
> > > > To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] six am, fed up, sensors
> > > chatter
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Hi, I could really use some input here guys.
> > > >
> > > > using radio scrap 276-137A IR "digital" ttl
> > > sensors, transmitters
> > > > pulsed off a pak8 at 40khz, they chatter like
> mad!
> > > from about a foot
> > > > away output will read 4.95 volts....bring a
> white
> > > sheet closer
> > > > gradually and the second the voltage starts to
> > > drop the chatter
> > > > begins and won't end until about one inch away
> > > when the reading seems
> > > > to stabalize at zero volts.
> > > >
> > > > my supplies have caps for filtering which make
> no
> > > difference at all,
> > > > nor does having caps directly at the
> power/ground
> > > of the sensor. I
> > > > just finished testing a schmitt trigger, .5V
> > > hysteresis, lm339 quad
> > > > comparator..made no difference at all? i then
> > > changed the reference
> > > > voltage on it to 2.5V...it brought the chatter
> out
>
=== message truncated ===
______________________________________________________________________
Web-hosting solutions for home and business! http://website.yahoo.ca
Battery Pack #1 =====positive to servos
|
| negative
|
|
Battery Pack #2 =======positive to other electronics
Make sure you have capacitors on input side and output
side of 7805 regulators. Make sure you have "enough"
voltage coming into the regulators to allow them to
regulate.
Jim
> If i try the grounds of the batteries must be
> connected
> together yes??
>
> I did use seperate five volt regulator ic's, 7805's.
> i'll have several in my robot just to supply enough
> current. so my four servo's are on one five volt reg
> of their own, they have a common ground with the other
> regulator going to a single battery pack.
>
> what do you think?
>
>
> --- kvo@a... wrote:
> > I helped a local fellow debug a circuit containing
> > IR
> > sensors driving a STAMP; and the STAMP driving
> > several
> > servos. This particular issue wound up being the
> > sharing of the same DC source.
> >
> > His gear worked much better when he split the
> > battery
> > supply for the electronics, and provided a separate
> > DC
> > pack for servos.
> >
> > Jim
> > > "1V's black lead to ground and go measure other
> > points
> > > on
> > > your circuit that are supposed to be ground."
> > >
> > > -black lead right to battery pack, i get 0.06V??
> > > noticed this before in my detector's output,
> > figured
> > > it was simply as far as it switched though, but
> > it's
> > > everywhere. I can't see where it's comming from.
> > This
> > > would be a "ground loop"?
> > >
> > > -The metal cases actually come with a "pin" that's
> > > pressed up against the ground pin. It is only
> > pressed
> > > though, i had soldered them all to avoid such
> > > problems. so case is soldered to ground pin.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I have also heard that
> > > grounding the metal case of the sensor (in
> > addition to
> > > the ground pin)
> > > is a good idea.
> > >
> > > -Used these same detectors before with just the
> > stamp
> > > and np, but i wasn't giving them continous IR
> > either,
> > > just a 1ms freqout.
> > >
> > > -I can't explain this but my schmitt trigger's
> > output
> > > displays the very same voltage on the detector
> > output,
> > > which looks analog, maybe the chatter is too fast
> > for
> > > my VOM.
> > >
> > > -I'll try prototyping the pak on its board it's
> > all
> > > on breadboard at this point.
> > >
> > > Thanks Alot, get back to ya on that one.
> > >
> > > --- Al Williams <alw@a...> wrote:
> > > > I've heard those "ice cube" sensors are finicky.
> > I
> > > > like the Panasonic
> > > > ones we get from Digikey. Do you have a pull up
> > on
> > > > the sensor's output?
> > > > Is it possible you have a ground loop? Connect a
> > > > meter set to measure
> > > > low voltages <1V's black lead to ground and go
> > > > measure other points on
> > > > your circuit that are supposed to be ground. I
> > have
> > > > also heard that
> > > > grounding the metal case of the sensor (in
> > addition
> > > > to the ground pin)
> > > > is a good idea.
> > > >
> > > > This is from a Stamp list post in 1997:
> > > > > Radio Shack sell an IR Retector module,
> > catalog
> > > > #276-137. However, it
> > > > > comes in at least three variants, shown on the
> > > > blister pack as
> > > > 276-137,
> > > > > 276-137A and 276-137B. This module is
> > referenced
> > > > in the BASIC Stamp I
> > > > > application note #11, Infrared Communications.
> > > > >
> > > > > I have tried two of the 137B versions, and
> > both
> > > > were defective issuing
> > > > > stray output pulses with no IR input, even
> > with
> > > > good shielding and
> > > > > bypassing in a dark room. The 137B units were
> > > > bopth marked as
> > > > > "EVERLIGHT IRM 8100-3-M"
> > > > >
> > > > > A unit marked 137 (no letter) unit was marked
> > as a
> > > > Sharp GP1U52X, and
> > > > > works fine. The metal shielding can around it
> > is a
> > > > bit diffent from
> > > > the
> > > > > 137A and 137B untis I've seen in the stores.
> > > > >
> > > > > Also, the fax-back documentation from Radio
> > Shack
> > > > implies that the
> > > > unit
> > > > > provides an output pluse (+5 v) when a IR
> > carrier
> > > > is present.
> > > > Actually,
> > > > > the output is inverted, with output normally
> > high
> > > > and going to zero
> > > > when
> > > > > a carrier is present.
> > > >
> > > > Here is a quote from the Basic Stamp app note
> > that
> > > > uses the same sensor:
> > > > If you find that your IR receiver occasionally
> > > > produces "garbage
> > > > characters" when the transmitter is off, try
> > > > grounding the metal case of
> > > > the GP1U52X. It is somewhat sensitive to stray
> > > > signals. If you build the
> > > > transmitter and receiver on the same prototyping
> > > > board for testing, you
> > > > are almost certain to have this problem. Bypass
> > all
> > > > power connections
> > > > with 0.1-µF capacitors and use a single-point
> > > > ground. And be encour-
> > > > aged by the fact that the circuit works much
> > better
> > > > in its intended
> > > > application, with the transmitter and receiver
> > > > several feet apart.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I also wonder if the 50MHz clock from the PAK is
> > > > getting into the rest
> > > > of the circuit? Is there any way you could
> > > > breadboard the PAK-VIII on a
> > > > different breadboard and just run power, ground,
> > > > data, clock, and the
> > > > outputs over to the "main" board?
> > > >
> > > > Al Williams
> > > > AWC
> > > > * Floating point A/D
> > > > http://www.al-williams.com/awce/pak9.htm
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > >
Original Message
> > > > > From: cbielek [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=GVgRln2L-zDbjHLbvSPiSoHgEOjmuAHyzfyEs2FmNfnz2iKgn8Dv5z99_xhyfqxq8vF6trxI9iFkofs]cbielek@y...[/url
> > > > > Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 5:01 AM
> > > > > To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] six am, fed up, sensors
> > > > chatter
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi, I could really use some input here guys.
> > > > >
> > > > > using radio scrap 276-137A IR "digital" ttl
> > > > sensors, transmitters
> > > > > pulsed off a pak8 at 40khz, they chatter like
> > mad!
> > > > from about a foot
> > > > > away output will read 4.95 volts....bring a
> > white
> > > > sheet closer
> > > > > gradually and the second the voltage starts to
> > > > drop the chatter
> > > > > begins and won't end until about one inch away
> > > > when the reading seems
> > > > > to stabalize at zero volts.
> > > > >
> > > > > my supplies have caps for filtering which make
> > no
> > > > difference at all,
> > > > > nor does having caps directly at the
> > power/ground
> > > > of the sensor. I
> > > > > just finished testing a schmitt trigger, .5V
> > > > hysteresis, lm339 quad
> > > > > comparator..made no difference at all? i then
> > > > changed the reference
> > > > > voltage on it to 2.5V...it brought the chatter
> > out
> >
> === message truncated ===
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> Web-hosting solutions for home and business! http://website.yahoo.ca
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
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>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
one I'm using sees things that aren't there. With an o'scope watching
the output I could see this thing firing away intermittently. When
the overhead light in my room was switched off this IR detector went
beserk! The scope showed a continuous stream of irregular pulses from
extremely short to quite long. Turning the room light back on reduced
the output stream to just an occasional pulse. (The detector was set
up by itself, just power and 4.7K pullup on the output. There were no
other circuits. And the metal case was soldered to ground.) I placed
a small 6 volt light bulb to shine into the detector and all the
mysterious pulses disappeared, dark room or light. And the unit is
still able to sense and decode any IR remote pointed directly at it
or bounced off the ceiling and walls.
I figure maybe these things just need some type of visible
light "bias" to keep the internal amplifier stages stable. I tried
various LED's but only the incandescant light seemed to make it work
right.
Another point, since these detectors are so sensitive I'm wondering
if some of the chatter isn't being caused by multiple reflections?
Just thought I'd add to the confusion
Hal
I noticed they were little reactive to ambient
light...nothing compared to what i was used to trying
to make work however, and they do chatter with nothing
right in front of them, with a designed range of a
foot at most it seems to chatter off the ceiling at
times. I assumed that was multiple reflection ect.
maybe now i'm just spoiled huh, but i want something
that works rock solide, without fail, time after time.
I just installed an emitter follower for a buffer from
the output of the "ice cube" to my schmitt trigger, as
i said once while it worked at it's best and still
chattered just touching the VOM probe to it killed it,
the sucker still chatters just as bad. I dunno
I'm using some real high end transmitters,
op-32's...can take a quick pulse of ten amps...normal
draw is 100ma....with just one at 100ma those
detectors saturate...doesn't matter if you wrap them
up in a ball of foil and seal it with black tape,
they'll never switch high.
I guess i'll go see if i can find some cheap detectors
that work good, thought i already had though, (thanks
Radio Scrap again).
Al, you mentioned some decent ones from digikey? Have
you a # for them and if so have you ever tested them
with a continous pulse, how'd they work?
Before I commit my credit card to this project yet
again..
I'm aware of a hack for these detectors to convert
them to analog, anyone know it/tried it/with a
continous pulse? I suppose it woudlnt' help with the
oscillations anyway, just decrease my range.
Thanks for all your help guys, it's most highly
appreciated.
--- halalbach <halalbach@y...> wrote:
> I have found these sensors to be very sensitive to
> the point that the
> one I'm using sees things that aren't there. With an
> o'scope watching
> the output I could see this thing firing away
> intermittently. When
> the overhead light in my room was switched off this
> IR detector went
> beserk! The scope showed a continuous stream of
> irregular pulses from
> extremely short to quite long. Turning the room
> light back on reduced
> the output stream to just an occasional pulse. (The
> detector was set
> up by itself, just power and 4.7K pullup on the
> output. There were no
> other circuits. And the metal case was soldered to
> ground.) I placed
> a small 6 volt light bulb to shine into the detector
> and all the
> mysterious pulses disappeared, dark room or light.
> And the unit is
> still able to sense and decode any IR remote pointed
> directly at it
> or bounced off the ceiling and walls.
> I figure maybe these things just need some type of
> visible
> light "bias" to keep the internal amplifier stages
> stable. I tried
> various LED's but only the incandescant light seemed
> to make it work
> right.
>
> Another point, since these detectors are so
> sensitive I'm wondering
> if some of the chatter isn't being caused by
> multiple reflections?
>
> Just thought I'd add to the confusion
>
> Hal
>
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> from the same email address that you subscribed.
> Text in the Subject and Body of the message will be
> ignored.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
Web-hosting solutions for home and business! http://website.yahoo.ca
I just realised I wasn't filtering my 7805's properly.
I believe a 4.7uf and a .01uf are the standard for
doing the job. What i didnt' realise before is one is
over the each 5V lead to ground. I had been bypassing
either or up to this point, and tried both, but this
well makes sense (damn beginners i know i know).
Here's a quick question the art of elect. student
manual didn't point out.
Call this an assumption, 4.7uf from unregulated supply
to ground and 0.01uf from regulated to ground?
Batteries are dead now, too tired to fool with it,
I'll try it tomorrow. Thanks
--- kvo@a... wrote:
> I would suggest trying this:
>
>
>
> Battery Pack #1 =====positive to servos
> |
> | negative
> |
> |
> Battery Pack #2 =======positive to other
> electronics
>
> Make sure you have capacitors on input side and
> output
> side of 7805 regulators. Make sure you have
> "enough"
> voltage coming into the regulators to allow them to
> regulate.
>
> Jim
> > If i try the grounds of the batteries must be
> > connected
> > together yes??
> >
> > I did use seperate five volt regulator ic's,
> 7805's.
> > i'll have several in my robot just to supply
> enough
> > current. so my four servo's are on one five volt
> reg
> > of their own, they have a common ground with the
> other
> > regulator going to a single battery pack.
> >
> > what do you think?
> >
> >
> > --- kvo@a... wrote:
> > > I helped a local fellow debug a circuit
> containing
> > > IR
> > > sensors driving a STAMP; and the STAMP driving
> > > several
> > > servos. This particular issue wound up being
> the
> > > sharing of the same DC source.
> > >
> > > His gear worked much better when he split the
> > > battery
> > > supply for the electronics, and provided a
> separate
> > > DC
> > > pack for servos.
> > >
> > > Jim
> > > > "1V's black lead to ground and go measure
> other
> > > points
> > > > on
> > > > your circuit that are supposed to be ground."
> > > >
> > > > -black lead right to battery pack, i get
> 0.06V??
> > > > noticed this before in my detector's output,
> > > figured
> > > > it was simply as far as it switched though,
> but
> > > it's
> > > > everywhere. I can't see where it's comming
> from.
> > > This
> > > > would be a "ground loop"?
> > > >
> > > > -The metal cases actually come with a "pin"
> that's
> > > > pressed up against the ground pin. It is only
> > > pressed
> > > > though, i had soldered them all to avoid such
> > > > problems. so case is soldered to ground pin.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I have also heard that
> > > > grounding the metal case of the sensor (in
> > > addition to
> > > > the ground pin)
> > > > is a good idea.
> > > >
> > > > -Used these same detectors before with just
> the
> > > stamp
> > > > and np, but i wasn't giving them continous IR
> > > either,
> > > > just a 1ms freqout.
> > > >
> > > > -I can't explain this but my schmitt trigger's
> > > output
> > > > displays the very same voltage on the detector
> > > output,
> > > > which looks analog, maybe the chatter is too
> fast
> > > for
> > > > my VOM.
> > > >
> > > > -I'll try prototyping the pak on its board
> it's
> > > all
> > > > on breadboard at this point.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks Alot, get back to ya on that one.
> > > >
> > > > --- Al Williams <alw@a...> wrote:
> > > > > I've heard those "ice cube" sensors are
> finicky.
> > > I
> > > > > like the Panasonic
> > > > > ones we get from Digikey. Do you have a pull
> up
> > > on
> > > > > the sensor's output?
> > > > > Is it possible you have a ground loop?
> Connect a
> > > > > meter set to measure
> > > > > low voltages <1V's black lead to ground and
> go
> > > > > measure other points on
> > > > > your circuit that are supposed to be ground.
> I
> > > have
> > > > > also heard that
> > > > > grounding the metal case of the sensor (in
> > > addition
> > > > > to the ground pin)
> > > > > is a good idea.
> > > > >
> > > > > This is from a Stamp list post in 1997:
> > > > > > Radio Shack sell an IR Retector module,
> > > catalog
> > > > > #276-137. However, it
> > > > > > comes in at least three variants, shown on
> the
> > > > > blister pack as
> > > > > 276-137,
> > > > > > 276-137A and 276-137B. This module is
> > > referenced
> > > > > in the BASIC Stamp I
> > > > > > application note #11, Infrared
> Communications.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I have tried two of the 137B versions, and
> > > both
> > > > > were defective issuing
> > > > > > stray output pulses with no IR input, even
> > > with
> > > > > good shielding and
> > > > > > bypassing in a dark room. The 137B units
> were
> > > > > bopth marked as
> > > > > > "EVERLIGHT IRM 8100-3-M"
> > > > > >
> > > > > > A unit marked 137 (no letter) unit was
> marked
> > > as a
> > > > > Sharp GP1U52X, and
> > > > > > works fine. The metal shielding can around
> it
> > > is a
> > > > > bit diffent from
> > > > > the
> > > > > > 137A and 137B untis I've seen in the
> stores.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Also, the fax-back documentation from
> Radio
> > > Shack
> > > > > implies that the
> > > > > unit
> > > > > > provides an output pluse (+5 v) when a IR
> > > carrier
> > > > > is present.
> > > > > Actually,
> > > > > > the output is inverted, with output
> normally
> > > high
> > > > > and going to zero
> > > > > when
> > > > > > a carrier is present.
> > > > >
> > > > > Here is a quote from the Basic Stamp app
> note
> > > that
> > > > > uses the same sensor:
> > > > > If you find that your IR receiver
> occasionally
> > > > > produces "garbage
> > > > > characters" when the transmitter is off, try
> > > > > grounding the metal case of
> > > > > the GP1U52X. It is somewhat sensitive to
> stray
> > > > > signals. If you build the
> > > > > transmitter and receiver on the same
> prototyping
>
=== message truncated ===
______________________________________________________________________
Web-hosting solutions for home and business! http://website.yahoo.ca
surprise....it's a detector issue alright.
Al i searched digikey for panasonic detectors yet
didn't see any digital ones.
Thanks again everyone.
g'night
--- c bielek <cbielek@y...> wrote:
>
> Got plenty of voltage I assure you.
> I just realised I wasn't filtering my 7805's
> properly.
> I believe a 4.7uf and a .01uf are the standard for
> doing the job. What i didnt' realise before is one
> is
> over the each 5V lead to ground. I had been
> bypassing
> either or up to this point, and tried both, but this
> well makes sense (damn beginners i know i know).
> Here's a quick question the art of elect. student
> manual didn't point out.
>
> Call this an assumption, 4.7uf from unregulated
> supply
> to ground and 0.01uf from regulated to ground?
>
> Batteries are dead now, too tired to fool with it,
> I'll try it tomorrow. Thanks
> --- kvo@a... wrote:
> > I would suggest trying this:
> >
> >
> >
> > Battery Pack #1 =====positive to servos
> > |
> > | negative
> > |
> > |
> > Battery Pack #2 =======positive to other
> > electronics
> >
> > Make sure you have capacitors on input side and
> > output
> > side of 7805 regulators. Make sure you have
> > "enough"
> > voltage coming into the regulators to allow them
> to
> > regulate.
> >
> > Jim
> > > If i try the grounds of the batteries must be
> > > connected
> > > together yes??
> > >
> > > I did use seperate five volt regulator ic's,
> > 7805's.
> > > i'll have several in my robot just to supply
> > enough
> > > current. so my four servo's are on one five volt
> > reg
> > > of their own, they have a common ground with the
> > other
> > > regulator going to a single battery pack.
> > >
> > > what do you think?
> > >
> > >
> > > --- kvo@a... wrote:
> > > > I helped a local fellow debug a circuit
> > containing
> > > > IR
> > > > sensors driving a STAMP; and the STAMP driving
> > > > several
> > > > servos. This particular issue wound up being
> > the
> > > > sharing of the same DC source.
> > > >
> > > > His gear worked much better when he split the
> > > > battery
> > > > supply for the electronics, and provided a
> > separate
> > > > DC
> > > > pack for servos.
> > > >
> > > > Jim
> > > > > "1V's black lead to ground and go measure
> > other
> > > > points
> > > > > on
> > > > > your circuit that are supposed to be
> ground."
> > > > >
> > > > > -black lead right to battery pack, i get
> > 0.06V??
> > > > > noticed this before in my detector's output,
> > > > figured
> > > > > it was simply as far as it switched though,
> > but
> > > > it's
> > > > > everywhere. I can't see where it's comming
> > from.
> > > > This
> > > > > would be a "ground loop"?
> > > > >
> > > > > -The metal cases actually come with a "pin"
> > that's
> > > > > pressed up against the ground pin. It is
> only
> > > > pressed
> > > > > though, i had soldered them all to avoid
> such
> > > > > problems. so case is soldered to ground pin.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > I have also heard that
> > > > > grounding the metal case of the sensor (in
> > > > addition to
> > > > > the ground pin)
> > > > > is a good idea.
> > > > >
> > > > > -Used these same detectors before with just
> > the
> > > > stamp
> > > > > and np, but i wasn't giving them continous
> IR
> > > > either,
> > > > > just a 1ms freqout.
> > > > >
> > > > > -I can't explain this but my schmitt
> trigger's
> > > > output
> > > > > displays the very same voltage on the
> detector
> > > > output,
> > > > > which looks analog, maybe the chatter is too
> > fast
> > > > for
> > > > > my VOM.
> > > > >
> > > > > -I'll try prototyping the pak on its board
> > it's
> > > > all
> > > > > on breadboard at this point.
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks Alot, get back to ya on that one.
> > > > >
> > > > > --- Al Williams <alw@a...> wrote:
> > > > > > I've heard those "ice cube" sensors are
> > finicky.
> > > > I
> > > > > > like the Panasonic
> > > > > > ones we get from Digikey. Do you have a
> pull
> > up
> > > > on
> > > > > > the sensor's output?
> > > > > > Is it possible you have a ground loop?
> > Connect a
> > > > > > meter set to measure
> > > > > > low voltages <1V's black lead to ground
> and
> > go
> > > > > > measure other points on
> > > > > > your circuit that are supposed to be
> ground.
> > I
> > > > have
> > > > > > also heard that
> > > > > > grounding the metal case of the sensor (in
> > > > addition
> > > > > > to the ground pin)
> > > > > > is a good idea.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > This is from a Stamp list post in 1997:
> > > > > > > Radio Shack sell an IR Retector module,
> > > > catalog
> > > > > > #276-137. However, it
> > > > > > > comes in at least three variants, shown
> on
> > the
> > > > > > blister pack as
> > > > > > 276-137,
> > > > > > > 276-137A and 276-137B. This module is
> > > > referenced
> > > > > > in the BASIC Stamp I
> > > > > > > application note #11, Infrared
> > Communications.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I have tried two of the 137B versions,
> and
> > > > both
> > > > > > were defective issuing
> > > > > > > stray output pulses with no IR input,
> even
> > > > with
> > > > > > good shielding and
> > > > > > > bypassing in a dark room. The 137B
> units
> > were
> > > > > > bopth marked as
> > > > > > > "EVERLIGHT IRM 8100-3-M"
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > A unit marked 137 (no letter) unit was
> > marked
> > > > as a
> > > > > > Sharp GP1U52X, and
> > > > > > > works fine. The metal shielding can
> around
>
=== message truncated ===
______________________________________________________________________
Web-hosting solutions for home and business! http://website.yahoo.ca
I use the Sharp GP2D02 Infrared Object detectors to good effect.
But they don't determine range below 4-5 inches in my robot.
www.acroname.com articles show one could use a cross firing method to
improve range detection below 4-8 inches, but i didn't try it. This IR
detector uses a CCD chip and a triangular ranging method to determine range,
since they have it all self contained in a little module, that is easy to
use, I went that route.
I use the Devantech SRF04 ultrasonic range finder(www.acroname.com) now for
most everything as it works from about 1 inch out to 70 inches or so with my
robots. Depending on the MCU you can get down to 1 inch but other MCU's get
you down to about 2 inches minimum range. The Polaroid range detectors have
greater range 25 feet or so, but they can't get below 1-2 feet range, plus
they are too big for my uses.
I have some of the little IR devices your talking about, but I haven't done
anything with them yet as the Sharp GP2D02 devices work pretty good for
object detection.
Original Message
From: c bielek [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=lsV6DUZmC_kwDHhR5k8rqq35EGu5rBDPDhL31t97T7E339vgm0TutHXVBs2yXSGWM3-Ld7sTzaQ]cbielek@y...[/url
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 2:22 AM
To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: six am, fed up, sensors chatter
had no idea these things were so bad...
I noticed they were little reactive to ambient
light...nothing compared to what i was used to trying
to make work however, and they do chatter with nothing
right in front of them, with a designed range of a
foot at most it seems to chatter off the ceiling at
times. I assumed that was multiple reflection ect.
maybe now i'm just spoiled huh, but i want something
that works rock solide, without fail, time after time.
I just installed an emitter follower for a buffer from
the output of the "ice cube" to my schmitt trigger, as
i said once while it worked at it's best and still
chattered just touching the VOM probe to it killed it,
the sucker still chatters just as bad. I dunno
I'm using some real high end transmitters,
op-32's...can take a quick pulse of ten amps...normal
draw is 100ma....with just one at 100ma those
detectors saturate...doesn't matter if you wrap them
up in a ball of foil and seal it with black tape,
they'll never switch high.
I guess i'll go see if i can find some cheap detectors
that work good, thought i already had though, (thanks
Radio Scrap again).
Al, you mentioned some decent ones from digikey? Have
you a # for them and if so have you ever tested them
with a continous pulse, how'd they work?
Before I commit my credit card to this project yet
again..
I'm aware of a hack for these detectors to convert
them to analog, anyone know it/tried it/with a
continous pulse? I suppose it woudlnt' help with the
oscillations anyway, just decrease my range.
Thanks for all your help guys, it's most highly
appreciated.
--- halalbach <halalbach@y...> wrote:
> I have found these sensors to be very sensitive to
> the point that the
> one I'm using sees things that aren't there. With an
> o'scope watching
> the output I could see this thing firing away
> intermittently. When
> the overhead light in my room was switched off this
> IR detector went
> beserk! The scope showed a continuous stream of
> irregular pulses from
> extremely short to quite long. Turning the room
> light back on reduced
> the output stream to just an occasional pulse. (The
> detector was set
> up by itself, just power and 4.7K pullup on the
> output. There were no
> other circuits. And the metal case was soldered to
> ground.) I placed
> a small 6 volt light bulb to shine into the detector
> and all the
> mysterious pulses disappeared, dark room or light.
> And the unit is
> still able to sense and decode any IR remote pointed
> directly at it
> or bounced off the ceiling and walls.
> I figure maybe these things just need some type of
> visible
> light "bias" to keep the internal amplifier stages
> stable. I tried
> various LED's but only the incandescant light seemed
> to make it work
> right.
>
> Another point, since these detectors are so
> sensitive I'm wondering
> if some of the chatter isn't being caused by
> multiple reflections?
>
> Just thought I'd add to the confusion
>
> Hal
>
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> from the same email address that you subscribed.
> Text in the Subject and Body of the message will be
> ignored.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
Web-hosting solutions for home and business! http://website.yahoo.ca
To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
on our site, but if you want them from us, use this link:
http://www.al-williams.com/tempir.htm
Al Williams
AWC
* 8 channels of PWM
http://www.al-williams.com/awce/pak5.htm
>
Original Message
> From: c bielek [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=w6zKT4jvcVJxzt1IiDbqEhqa_MTn5WI_pNKHFKLwONrgjGubZg36xGkzgi59f8PxUgRqc1ceFKR_iDg]cbielek@y...[/url
> Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 3:00 AM
> To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] six am, fed up, sensors chatter
>
>
> K i fixed the caps on regulators...same thing..big
> surprise....it's a detector issue alright.
>
> Al i searched digikey for panasonic detectors yet
> didn't see any digital ones.
>
> Thanks again everyone.
>
> g'night
> --- c bielek <cbielek@y...> wrote:
> >
> > Got plenty of voltage I assure you.
> > I just realised I wasn't filtering my 7805's
> > properly.
> > I believe a 4.7uf and a .01uf are the standard for
> > doing the job. What i didnt' realise before is one
> > is
> > over the each 5V lead to ground. I had been
> > bypassing
> > either or up to this point, and tried both, but this
> > well makes sense (damn beginners i know i know).
> > Here's a quick question the art of elect. student
> > manual didn't point out.
> >
> > Call this an assumption, 4.7uf from unregulated
> > supply
> > to ground and 0.01uf from regulated to ground?
> >
> > Batteries are dead now, too tired to fool with it,
> > I'll try it tomorrow. Thanks
> > --- kvo@a... wrote:
> > > I would suggest trying this:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Battery Pack #1 =====positive to servos
> > > |
> > > | negative
> > > |
> > > |
> > > Battery Pack #2 =======positive to other
> > > electronics
> > >
> > > Make sure you have capacitors on input side and
> > > output
> > > side of 7805 regulators. Make sure you have
> > > "enough"
> > > voltage coming into the regulators to allow them
> > to
> > > regulate.
> > >
> > > Jim
> > > > If i try the grounds of the batteries must be
> > > > connected
> > > > together yes??
> > > >
> > > > I did use seperate five volt regulator ic's,
> > > 7805's.
> > > > i'll have several in my robot just to supply
> > > enough
> > > > current. so my four servo's are on one five volt
> > > reg
> > > > of their own, they have a common ground with the
> > > other
> > > > regulator going to a single battery pack.
> > > >
> > > > what do you think?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- kvo@a... wrote:
> > > > > I helped a local fellow debug a circuit
> > > containing
> > > > > IR
> > > > > sensors driving a STAMP; and the STAMP driving several
> > > > > servos. This particular issue wound up being
> > > the
> > > > > sharing of the same DC source.
> > > > >
> > > > > His gear worked much better when he split the
> > > > > battery
> > > > > supply for the electronics, and provided a
> > > separate
> > > > > DC
> > > > > pack for servos.
> > > > >
> > > > > Jim
> > > > > > "1V's black lead to ground and go measure
> > > other
> > > > > points
> > > > > > on
> > > > > > your circuit that are supposed to be
> > ground."
> > > > > >
> > > > > > -black lead right to battery pack, i get
> > > 0.06V??
> > > > > > noticed this before in my detector's output,
> > > > > figured
> > > > > > it was simply as far as it switched though,
> > > but
> > > > > it's
> > > > > > everywhere. I can't see where it's comming
> > > from.
> > > > > This
> > > > > > would be a "ground loop"?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > -The metal cases actually come with a "pin"
> > > that's
> > > > > > pressed up against the ground pin. It is
> > only
> > > > > pressed
> > > > > > though, i had soldered them all to avoid
> > such
> > > > > > problems. so case is soldered to ground pin.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I have also heard that
> > > > > > grounding the metal case of the sensor (in
> > > > > addition to
> > > > > > the ground pin)
> > > > > > is a good idea.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > -Used these same detectors before with just
> > > the
> > > > > stamp
> > > > > > and np, but i wasn't giving them continous
> > IR
> > > > > either,
> > > > > > just a 1ms freqout.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > -I can't explain this but my schmitt
> > trigger's
> > > > > output
> > > > > > displays the very same voltage on the
> > detector
> > > > > output,
> > > > > > which looks analog, maybe the chatter is too
> > > fast
> > > > > for
> > > > > > my VOM.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > -I'll try prototyping the pak on its board
> > > it's
> > > > > all
> > > > > > on breadboard at this point.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks Alot, get back to ya on that one.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- Al Williams <alw@a...> wrote:
> > > > > > > I've heard those "ice cube" sensors are
> > > finicky.
> > > > > I
> > > > > > > like the Panasonic
> > > > > > > ones we get from Digikey. Do you have a
> > pull
> > > up
> > > > > on
> > > > > > > the sensor's output?
> > > > > > > Is it possible you have a ground loop?
> > > Connect a
> > > > > > > meter set to measure
> > > > > > > low voltages <1V's black lead to ground
> > and
> > > go
> > > > > > > measure other points on
> > > > > > > your circuit that are supposed to be
> > ground.
> > > I
> > > > > have
> > > > > > > also heard that
> > > > > > > grounding the metal case of the sensor (in
> > > > > addition
> > > > > > > to the ground pin)
> > > > > > > is a good idea.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > This is from a Stamp list post in 1997:
> > > > > > > > Radio Shack sell an IR Retector module,
> > > > > catalog
> > > > > > > #276-137. However, it
> > > > > > > > comes in at least three variants, shown
> > on
> > > the
> > > > > > > blister pack as
> > > > > > > 276-137,
> > > > > > > > 276-137A and 276-137B. This module is
> > > > > referenced
> > > > > > > in the BASIC Stamp I
> > > > > > > > application note #11, Infrared
> > > Communications.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > I have tried two of the 137B versions,
> > and
> > > > > both
> > > > > > > were defective issuing
> > > > > > > > stray output pulses with no IR input,
> > even
> > > > > with
> > > > > > > good shielding and
> > > > > > > > bypassing in a dark room. The 137B
> > units
> > > were
> > > > > > > bopth marked as
> > > > > > > > "EVERLIGHT IRM 8100-3-M"
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > A unit marked 137 (no letter) unit was
> > > marked
> > > > > as a
> > > > > > > Sharp GP1U52X, and
> > > > > > > > works fine. The metal shielding can
> > around
> >
> === message truncated ===
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> ________
> Web-hosting solutions for home and business! http://website.yahoo.ca
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the
> Subject and Body of the message will be ignored.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
http://www.rentron.com/Infrared_Communication.htm
has a interesting IR circuit using the
Panasonic PNA4602M IR detector too.
Original Message
From: c bielek [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=JTE_xo_WQWXsreLjZpTY6Sm58iBNjCQCT6KxtL1Znhs5jcGFhqpDaGj2LPTtEEniT9F9rYHA]cbielek@y...[/url
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 2:22 AM
To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: six am, fed up, sensors chatter
had no idea these things were so bad...
I noticed they were little reactive to ambient
light...nothing compared to what i was used to trying
to make work however, and they do chatter with nothing
right in front of them, with a designed range of a
foot at most it seems to chatter off the ceiling at
times. I assumed that was multiple reflection ect.
maybe now i'm just spoiled huh, but i want something
that works rock solide, without fail, time after time.
I just installed an emitter follower for a buffer from
the output of the "ice cube" to my schmitt trigger, as
i said once while it worked at it's best and still
chattered just touching the VOM probe to it killed it,
the sucker still chatters just as bad. I dunno
I'm using some real high end transmitters,
op-32's...can take a quick pulse of ten amps...normal
draw is 100ma....with just one at 100ma those
detectors saturate...doesn't matter if you wrap them
up in a ball of foil and seal it with black tape,
they'll never switch high.
I guess i'll go see if i can find some cheap detectors
that work good, thought i already had though, (thanks
Radio Scrap again).
Al, you mentioned some decent ones from digikey? Have
you a # for them and if so have you ever tested them
with a continous pulse, how'd they work?
Before I commit my credit card to this project yet
again..
I'm aware of a hack for these detectors to convert
them to analog, anyone know it/tried it/with a
continous pulse? I suppose it woudlnt' help with the
oscillations anyway, just decrease my range.
Thanks for all your help guys, it's most highly
appreciated.
--- halalbach <halalbach@y...> wrote:
> I have found these sensors to be very sensitive to
> the point that the
> one I'm using sees things that aren't there. With an
> o'scope watching
> the output I could see this thing firing away
> intermittently. When
> the overhead light in my room was switched off this
> IR detector went
> beserk! The scope showed a continuous stream of
> irregular pulses from
> extremely short to quite long. Turning the room
> light back on reduced
> the output stream to just an occasional pulse. (The
> detector was set
> up by itself, just power and 4.7K pullup on the
> output. There were no
> other circuits. And the metal case was soldered to
> ground.) I placed
> a small 6 volt light bulb to shine into the detector
> and all the
> mysterious pulses disappeared, dark room or light.
> And the unit is
> still able to sense and decode any IR remote pointed
> directly at it
> or bounced off the ceiling and walls.
> I figure maybe these things just need some type of
> visible
> light "bias" to keep the internal amplifier stages
> stable. I tried
> various LED's but only the incandescant light seemed
> to make it work
> right.
>
> Another point, since these detectors are so
> sensitive I'm wondering
> if some of the chatter isn't being caused by
> multiple reflections?
>
> Just thought I'd add to the confusion
>
> Hal
>
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> from the same email address that you subscribed.
> Text in the Subject and Body of the message will be
> ignored.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
Web-hosting solutions for home and business! http://website.yahoo.ca
To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and
Body of the message will be ignored.
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
the presence of an object or not, but they do read all the way to the
sensor. I put one on my mini sumo and was very pleased.
Original Message
> It probably won't help you but...
> I use the Sharp GP2D02 Infrared Object detectors to good effect.
> But they don't determine range below 4-5 inches in my robot.
> www.acroname.com articles show one could use a cross firing method to
> improve range detection below 4-8 inches, but i didn't try it. This IR
> detector uses a CCD chip and a triangular ranging method to determine
range,
> since they have it all self contained in a little module, that is easy to
> use, I went that route.
electrical tape, i was thinking of doing crossfire but
these detectors just chatter until about an inch away.
--- Earl Bollinger <earlwbollinger@a...> wrote:
> It probably won't help you but...
> I use the Sharp GP2D02 Infrared Object detectors to
> good effect.
> But they don't determine range below 4-5 inches in
> my robot.
> www.acroname.com articles show one could use a cross
> firing method to
> improve range detection below 4-8 inches, but i
> didn't try it. This IR
> detector uses a CCD chip and a triangular ranging
> method to determine range,
> since they have it all self contained in a little
> module, that is easy to
> use, I went that route.
>
> I use the Devantech SRF04 ultrasonic range
> finder(www.acroname.com) now for
> most everything as it works from about 1 inch out to
> 70 inches or so with my
> robots. Depending on the MCU you can get down to 1
> inch but other MCU's get
> you down to about 2 inches minimum range. The
> Polaroid range detectors have
> greater range 25 feet or so, but they can't get
> below 1-2 feet range, plus
> they are too big for my uses.
>
> I have some of the little IR devices your talking
> about, but I haven't done
> anything with them yet as the Sharp GP2D02 devices
> work pretty good for
> object detection.
>
>
>
Original Message
> From: c bielek [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=z7j1-6U-1e4r6vwGCrYInWmEQA5sR9w-J6LHjRT2r9n79hELJGUu_cziNBJZRVxa73-gWrso3QfTDg]cbielek@y...[/url
> Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 2:22 AM
> To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: six am, fed up,
> sensors chatter
>
>
> had no idea these things were so bad...
>
> I noticed they were little reactive to ambient
> light...nothing compared to what i was used to
> trying
> to make work however, and they do chatter with
> nothing
> right in front of them, with a designed range of a
> foot at most it seems to chatter off the ceiling at
> times. I assumed that was multiple reflection ect.
>
> maybe now i'm just spoiled huh, but i want something
> that works rock solide, without fail, time after
> time.
>
> I just installed an emitter follower for a buffer
> from
> the output of the "ice cube" to my schmitt trigger,
> as
> i said once while it worked at it's best and still
> chattered just touching the VOM probe to it killed
> it,
> the sucker still chatters just as bad. I dunno
>
> I'm using some real high end transmitters,
> op-32's...can take a quick pulse of ten
> amps...normal
> draw is 100ma....with just one at 100ma those
> detectors saturate...doesn't matter if you wrap them
> up in a ball of foil and seal it with black tape,
> they'll never switch high.
>
> I guess i'll go see if i can find some cheap
> detectors
> that work good, thought i already had though,
> (thanks
> Radio Scrap again).
>
> Al, you mentioned some decent ones from digikey?
> Have
> you a # for them and if so have you ever tested them
> with a continous pulse, how'd they work?
>
> Before I commit my credit card to this project yet
> again..
>
> I'm aware of a hack for these detectors to convert
> them to analog, anyone know it/tried it/with a
> continous pulse? I suppose it woudlnt' help with the
> oscillations anyway, just decrease my range.
>
> Thanks for all your help guys, it's most highly
> appreciated.
>
>
> --- halalbach <halalbach@y...> wrote:
> > I have found these sensors to be very sensitive to
> > the point that the
> > one I'm using sees things that aren't there. With
> an
> > o'scope watching
> > the output I could see this thing firing away
> > intermittently. When
> > the overhead light in my room was switched off
> this
> > IR detector went
> > beserk! The scope showed a continuous stream of
> > irregular pulses from
> > extremely short to quite long. Turning the room
> > light back on reduced
> > the output stream to just an occasional pulse.
> (The
> > detector was set
> > up by itself, just power and 4.7K pullup on the
> > output. There were no
> > other circuits. And the metal case was soldered to
> > ground.) I placed
> > a small 6 volt light bulb to shine into the
> detector
> > and all the
> > mysterious pulses disappeared, dark room or light.
> > And the unit is
> > still able to sense and decode any IR remote
> pointed
> > directly at it
> > or bounced off the ceiling and walls.
> > I figure maybe these things just need some type of
> > visible
> > light "bias" to keep the internal amplifier stages
> > stable. I tried
> > various LED's but only the incandescant light
> seemed
> > to make it work
> > right.
> >
> > Another point, since these detectors are so
> > sensitive I'm wondering
> > if some of the chatter isn't being caused by
> > multiple reflections?
> >
> > Just thought I'd add to the confusion
> >
> > Hal
> >
> >
> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> > basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > from the same email address that you subscribed.
> > Text in the Subject and Body of the message will
> be
> > ignored.
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
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price range as far as the other sharp models are not.
Do they chatter at all though, if i get these i'm
seriously expecting a nice clean 0 to 1 or 1 to 0
transition with no 11110101010101110100101 in between.
Will these deliver? I checked out the data sheet for
them, much more informative than the "fax back" you
get from radio shack which is basically an ms paint
picture and a few meaningless specs.
Seems it has built in filters, schmitt trigger ect
I love that. Mounting them could prove difficult, but
no big deal.
I'll have to shop around though, canadian dollar isn't
worth much right now.
--- Al Williams <alw@a...> wrote:
> We stock these too. The Panasonic number is
> PNA4602M. We don't list them
> on our site, but if you want them from us, use this
> link:
> http://www.al-williams.com/tempir.htm
>
> Al Williams
> AWC
> * 8 channels of PWM
> http://www.al-williams.com/awce/pak5.htm
>
>
>
> >
Original Message
> > From: c bielek [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=8afbiQbSm7eGAnkcN_af84ljXRpvOzxh7R7MrZcHtdCplaKGTkoDlkxkTG4bBk4SpjbG23C31tfv]cbielek@y...[/url
> > Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 3:00 AM
> > To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: RE: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] six am, fed up, sensors
> chatter
> >
> >
> > K i fixed the caps on regulators...same thing..big
> > surprise....it's a detector issue alright.
> >
> > Al i searched digikey for panasonic detectors yet
> > didn't see any digital ones.
> >
> > Thanks again everyone.
> >
> > g'night
> > --- c bielek <cbielek@y...> wrote:
> > >
> > > Got plenty of voltage I assure you.
> > > I just realised I wasn't filtering my 7805's
> > > properly.
> > > I believe a 4.7uf and a .01uf are the standard
> for
> > > doing the job. What i didnt' realise before is
> one
> > > is
> > > over the each 5V lead to ground. I had been
> > > bypassing
> > > either or up to this point, and tried both, but
> this
> > > well makes sense (damn beginners i know i know).
> > > Here's a quick question the art of elect.
> student
> > > manual didn't point out.
> > >
> > > Call this an assumption, 4.7uf from unregulated
> > > supply
> > > to ground and 0.01uf from regulated to ground?
> > >
> > > Batteries are dead now, too tired to fool with
> it,
> > > I'll try it tomorrow. Thanks
> > > --- kvo@a... wrote:
> > > > I would suggest trying this:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Battery Pack #1 =====positive to servos
> > > > |
> > > > | negative
> > > > |
> > > > |
> > > > Battery Pack #2 =======positive to other
> > > > electronics
> > > >
> > > > Make sure you have capacitors on input side
> and
> > > > output
> > > > side of 7805 regulators. Make sure you have
> > > > "enough"
> > > > voltage coming into the regulators to allow
> them
> > > to
> > > > regulate.
> > > >
> > > > Jim
> > > > > If i try the grounds of the batteries must
> be
> > > > > connected
> > > > > together yes??
> > > > >
> > > > > I did use seperate five volt regulator ic's,
> > > > 7805's.
> > > > > i'll have several in my robot just to supply
> > > > enough
> > > > > current. so my four servo's are on one five
> volt
> > > > reg
> > > > > of their own, they have a common ground with
> the
> > > > other
> > > > > regulator going to a single battery pack.
> > > > >
> > > > > what do you think?
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --- kvo@a... wrote:
> > > > > > I helped a local fellow debug a circuit
> > > > containing
> > > > > > IR
> > > > > > sensors driving a STAMP; and the STAMP
> driving several
> > > > > > servos. This particular issue wound up
> being
> > > > the
> > > > > > sharing of the same DC source.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > His gear worked much better when he split
> the
> > > > > > battery
> > > > > > supply for the electronics, and provided a
> > > > separate
> > > > > > DC
> > > > > > pack for servos.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Jim
> > > > > > > "1V's black lead to ground and go
> measure
> > > > other
> > > > > > points
> > > > > > > on
> > > > > > > your circuit that are supposed to be
> > > ground."
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > -black lead right to battery pack, i get
> > > > 0.06V??
> > > > > > > noticed this before in my detector's
> output,
> > > > > > figured
> > > > > > > it was simply as far as it switched
> though,
> > > > but
> > > > > > it's
> > > > > > > everywhere. I can't see where it's
> comming
> > > > from.
> > > > > > This
> > > > > > > would be a "ground loop"?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > -The metal cases actually come with a
> "pin"
> > > > that's
> > > > > > > pressed up against the ground pin. It is
> > > only
> > > > > > pressed
> > > > > > > though, i had soldered them all to avoid
> > > such
> > > > > > > problems. so case is soldered to ground
> pin.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I have also heard that
> > > > > > > grounding the metal case of the sensor
> (in
> > > > > > addition to
> > > > > > > the ground pin)
> > > > > > > is a good idea.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > -Used these same detectors before with
> just
> > > > the
> > > > > > stamp
> > > > > > > and np, but i wasn't giving them
> continous
> > > IR
> > > > > > either,
> > > > > > > just a 1ms freqout.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > -I can't explain this but my schmitt
> > > trigger's
> > > > > > output
> > > > > > > displays the very same voltage on the
> > > detector
> > > > > > output,
> > > > > > > which looks analog, maybe the chatter is
> too
> > > > fast
> > > > > > for
> > > > > > > my VOM.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > -I'll try prototyping the pak on its
> board
> > > > it's
> > > > > > all
> > > > > > > on breadboard at this point.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Thanks Alot, get back to ya on that one.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > --- Al Williams <alw@a...>
> wrote:
> > > > > > > > I've heard those "ice cube" sensors
> are
> > > > finicky.
> > > > > > I
> > > > > > > > like the Panasonic
> > > > > > > > ones we get from Digikey. Do you have
> a
>
=== message truncated ===
______________________________________________________________________
Web-hosting solutions for home and business! http://website.yahoo.ca
think Parallax stocks these also or at least something similar.
Al Williams
AWC
* Floating point math for the Stamp, PIC, SX, or any microcontroller
http://www.al-williams.com/awce/pak1.htm
>
Original Message
> From: c bielek [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=_zWXJShCWXWt2YVYokXZWuW5qoIB-Lli1hiyzWZAj8gmg3UaBTmUqvzjk4nY41zaKddRhZstl2M]cbielek@y...[/url
> Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 12:56 PM
> To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] six am, fed up, sensors chatter
>
>
> Thanks for the info and an the link Al. They are in my
> price range as far as the other sharp models are not.
>
> Do they chatter at all though, if i get these i'm
> seriously expecting a nice clean 0 to 1 or 1 to 0
> transition with no 11110101010101110100101 in between.
> Will these deliver? I checked out the data sheet for
> them, much more informative than the "fax back" you
> get from radio shack which is basically an ms paint
> picture and a few meaningless specs.
>
> Seems it has built in filters, schmitt trigger ect
> I love that. Mounting them could prove difficult, but
> no big deal.
>
> I'll have to shop around though, canadian dollar isn't
> worth much right now.
>
>
>
> --- Al Williams <alw@a...> wrote:
> > We stock these too. The Panasonic number is
> > PNA4602M. We don't list them
> > on our site, but if you want them from us, use this
> > link:
> > http://www.al-williams.com/tempir.htm
> >
> > Al Williams
> > AWC
> > * 8 channels of PWM http://www.al-williams.com/awce/pak5.htm
> >
> >
> >
> > >
Original Message
> > > From: c bielek [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=_zWXJShCWXWt2YVYokXZWuW5qoIB-Lli1hiyzWZAj8gmg3UaBTmUqvzjk4nY41zaKddRhZstl2M]cbielek@y...[/url
> > > Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 3:00 AM
> > > To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: RE: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] six am, fed up, sensors
> > chatter
> > >
> > >
> > > K i fixed the caps on regulators...same thing..big
> surprise....it's
> > > a detector issue alright.
> > >
> > > Al i searched digikey for panasonic detectors yet
> > > didn't see any digital ones.
> > >
> > > Thanks again everyone.
> > >
> > > g'night
> > > --- c bielek <cbielek@y...> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Got plenty of voltage I assure you.
> > > > I just realised I wasn't filtering my 7805's
> > > > properly.
> > > > I believe a 4.7uf and a .01uf are the standard
> > for
> > > > doing the job. What i didnt' realise before is
> > one
> > > > is
> > > > over the each 5V lead to ground. I had been
> > > > bypassing
> > > > either or up to this point, and tried both, but
> > this
> > > > well makes sense (damn beginners i know i know).
> > > > Here's a quick question the art of elect.
> > student
> > > > manual didn't point out.
> > > >
> > > > Call this an assumption, 4.7uf from unregulated
> > > > supply
> > > > to ground and 0.01uf from regulated to ground?
> > > >
> > > > Batteries are dead now, too tired to fool with
> > it,
> > > > I'll try it tomorrow. Thanks
> > > > --- kvo@a... wrote:
> > > > > I would suggest trying this:
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Battery Pack #1 =====positive to servos
> > > > > |
> > > > > | negative
> > > > > |
> > > > > |
> > > > > Battery Pack #2 =======positive to other electronics
> > > > >
> > > > > Make sure you have capacitors on input side
> > and
> > > > > output
> > > > > side of 7805 regulators. Make sure you have
> > > > > "enough"
> > > > > voltage coming into the regulators to allow
> > them
> > > > to
> > > > > regulate.
> > > > >
> > > > > Jim
> > > > > > If i try the grounds of the batteries must
> > be
> > > > > > connected
> > > > > > together yes??
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I did use seperate five volt regulator ic's,
> > > > > 7805's.
> > > > > > i'll have several in my robot just to supply
> > > > > enough
> > > > > > current. so my four servo's are on one five
> > volt
> > > > > reg
> > > > > > of their own, they have a common ground with
> > the
> > > > > other
> > > > > > regulator going to a single battery pack.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > what do you think?
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- kvo@a... wrote:
> > > > > > > I helped a local fellow debug a circuit
> > > > > containing
> > > > > > > IR
> > > > > > > sensors driving a STAMP; and the STAMP
> > driving several
> > > > > > > servos. This particular issue wound up
> > being
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > sharing of the same DC source.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > His gear worked much better when he split
> > the
> > > > > > > battery
> > > > > > > supply for the electronics, and provided a
> > > > > separate
> > > > > > > DC
> > > > > > > pack for servos.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Jim
> > > > > > > > "1V's black lead to ground and go
> > measure
> > > > > other
> > > > > > > points
> > > > > > > > on
> > > > > > > > your circuit that are supposed to be
> > > > ground."
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > -black lead right to battery pack, i get
> > > > > 0.06V??
> > > > > > > > noticed this before in my detector's
> > output,
> > > > > > > figured
> > > > > > > > it was simply as far as it switched
> > though,
> > > > > but
> > > > > > > it's
> > > > > > > > everywhere. I can't see where it's
> > comming
> > > > > from.
> > > > > > > This
> > > > > > > > would be a "ground loop"?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > -The metal cases actually come with a
> > "pin"
> > > > > that's
> > > > > > > > pressed up against the ground pin. It is
> > > > only
> > > > > > > pressed
> > > > > > > > though, i had soldered them all to avoid
> > > > such
> > > > > > > > problems. so case is soldered to ground
> > pin.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > I have also heard that
> > > > > > > > grounding the metal case of the sensor
> > (in
> > > > > > > addition to
> > > > > > > > the ground pin)
> > > > > > > > is a good idea.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > -Used these same detectors before with
> > just
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > stamp
> > > > > > > > and np, but i wasn't giving them
> > continous
> > > > IR
> > > > > > > either,
> > > > > > > > just a 1ms freqout.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > -I can't explain this but my schmitt
> > > > trigger's
> > > > > > > output
> > > > > > > > displays the very same voltage on the
> > > > detector
> > > > > > > output,
> > > > > > > > which looks analog, maybe the chatter is
> > too
> > > > > fast
> > > > > > > for
> > > > > > > > my VOM.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > -I'll try prototyping the pak on its
> > board
> > > > > it's
> > > > > > > all
> > > > > > > > on breadboard at this point.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Thanks Alot, get back to ya on that one.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > --- Al Williams <alw@a...>
> > wrote:
> > > > > > > > > I've heard those "ice cube" sensors
> > are
> > > > > finicky.
> > > > > > > I
> > > > > > > > > like the Panasonic
> > > > > > > > > ones we get from Digikey. Do you have
> > a
> >
> === message truncated ===
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
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