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Slightly off topic ( PCB min spacings) — Parallax Forums

Slightly off topic ( PCB min spacings)

ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
edited 2001-07-20 18:05 in General Discussion
All,

I am in the process of laying out my first PCB (I am using the
Eagle light tool) for a Stamp based controller for a Halloween
display. This board will be done in the "garage" utilizing the press-
n-peel method and Ferric Chloride. I have seen claims of line widths
as small as 5mm but these MAY have been accomplished by someone with
a great deal more experience than I.

What would you recommend as the minimum line widths and spacing?

Any rules of thumb that I should be aware of for this technique?

Thanks for any and all suggestions or recommendations.

Phil

Comments

  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-07-19 16:12
    > I am in the process of laying out my first PCB (I am using the
    > Eagle light tool) for a Stamp based controller for a Halloween
    > display. This board will be done in the "garage" utilizing the press-
    > n-peel method and Ferric Chloride. I have seen claims of line widths
    > as small as 5mm but these MAY have been accomplished by someone with
    > a great deal more experience than I.

    Well, I am betting you mean 5 mils (5/1000 of an inch [noparse]:)[/noparse] ... 5mm is about
    1/4 inch [noparse]:)[/noparse] ....


    > What would you recommend as the minimum line widths and spacing?

    If you were going with say APC circuits (which are cheaper than dirt almost
    and we love them), they call out 8 mil tracks with a minimum spacing of 8
    mils.

    If your doing it in the garage, I would say if you can afford 20 mil tracks
    and 20 mil spacing, I would do that ... it'll be MUCH more forgiving. I
    don't know the minimums, but someone else can help with that .... it all
    matters on how much time you etch.

    Give APC (http://www.apcircuits.com/) a shot though, they have great prices
    and they have an online calculator. If you add up the costs of etch, PCB,
    and the amortized costs of the tank, heater, etc... it might just add up to
    worth it.


    Take care!
    John
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-07-19 16:18
    Good morning, Phil

    Minimum spacing between lands should be .012. Land widths of less than .015
    are not recommended unless you have a high-speed etcher. Do-it-yourself
    etching systems are usually slower and tend to undercut the lands, reducing
    the effective width. It is also recommended that you avoid right angle turns
    since the etchant will eat away at the corner and again reduce the effective
    land width. A land width of .015 solder over copper will carry about 300mils.

    Sid
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-07-19 18:32
    Thanks for the suggestions. I assume that the right angle problem
    is on the outside corner, not the inside. Thus "T" connections are
    not discouraged. Is that correct?

    Yes I did mean mils not mm. The problems of fingers not connected
    to the brain sometimes. [noparse]:)[/noparse]

    That brings up another questions....

    What is the rule of thumb for selecting line width?
    How do I determine the width of the Power and Ground traces.
    What is the resistance (ohms per square) of 1oz/sqft copper?

    Thanks again,
    Phil

    --- In basicstamps@y..., Newzed@a... wrote:
    > Good morning, Phil
    >
    > Minimum spacing between lands should be .012. Land widths of less
    than .015
    > are not recommended unless you have a high-speed etcher. Do-it-
    yourself
    > etching systems are usually slower and tend to undercut the lands,
    reducing
    > the effective width. It is also recommended that you avoid right
    angle turns
    > since the etchant will eat away at the corner and again reduce the
    effective
    > land width. A land width of .015 solder over copper will carry
    about 300mils.
    >
    > Sid
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-07-19 18:57
    You might also look at another prototype house:
    http://epcircuits.uniserve.com/ for a second opinion (or quote). They also
    provide solder masks for a nominal charge on protos.

    Dennis

    Original Message
    From: John Ledford [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=qY6iexYdguYVIxza9zDIIfW4tw2dH5tZ51euQd2o86mpe2L8BPvbFOKO61tIQHVzeJnFDGDX5_kikKZpqfj4]john@k...[/url
    Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2001 8:12 AM
    To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
    Subject: RE: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Slightly off topic ( PCB min spacings)


    > I am in the process of laying out my first PCB (I am using the
    > Eagle light tool) for a Stamp based controller for a Halloween
    > display. This board will be done in the "garage" utilizing the press-
    > n-peel method and Ferric Chloride. I have seen claims of line widths
    > as small as 5mm but these MAY have been accomplished by someone with
    > a great deal more experience than I.

    Well, I am betting you mean 5 mils (5/1000 of an inch [noparse]:)[/noparse] ... 5mm is about
    1/4 inch [noparse]:)[/noparse] ....


    > What would you recommend as the minimum line widths and spacing?

    If you were going with say APC circuits (which are cheaper than dirt almost
    and we love them), they call out 8 mil tracks with a minimum spacing of 8
    mils.

    If your doing it in the garage, I would say if you can afford 20 mil tracks
    and 20 mil spacing, I would do that ... it'll be MUCH more forgiving. I
    don't know the minimums, but someone else can help with that .... it all
    matters on how much time you etch.

    Give APC (http://www.apcircuits.com/) a shot though, they have great prices
    and they have an online calculator. If you add up the costs of etch, PCB,
    and the amortized costs of the tank, heater, etc... it might just add up to
    worth it.


    Take care!
    John


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  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-07-19 20:26
    I also tried press-n-peel, and was not thrilled with it. My conclusion is
    that it's OK for coarse work, and I'll only use it to prove out a very
    speculative design. Even 20 mils is difficult: you must be sure that no part
    of your set-up moves at all, and that you have a really good means of
    registering one side to the other. Also, realize that there will be no
    plated through holes for vias and other connections - you must make the
    connection through the holes with a fine wire or similar.

    Also try http://4pcb.com they are running a special - 2 board min, $33 per
    w/ silk & mask.

    Chris

    >
    Original Message
    > From: Phil Keller [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=hB_cXQnHUAay_z3UMqiAZBZX4NxguD1Bt_t-w9mixyRgxGej9bfqN-asfy9duPFMvTbWUmgrEYk]philk@h...[/url
    > Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2001 10:36 AM
    > To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
    > Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Slightly off topic ( PCB min spacings)
    >
    >
    > All,
    >
    > I am in the process of laying out my first PCB (I am using the
    > Eagle light tool) for a Stamp based controller for a Halloween
    > display. This board will be done in the "garage" utilizing the press-
    > n-peel method and Ferric Chloride. I have seen claims of line widths
    > as small as 5mm but these MAY have been accomplished by someone with
    > a great deal more experience than I.
    >
    > What would you recommend as the minimum line widths and spacing?
    >
    > Any rules of thumb that I should be aware of for this technique?
    >
    > Thanks for any and all suggestions or recommendations.
    >
    > Phil
    >
    >
    > To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
    > basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
    > from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the
    > Subject and Body of the message will be ignored.
    >
    >
    > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
    > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
    >
    >
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-07-19 22:54
    With the press and peel method all i can say is give it a try. I have found
    that once it is stuck to the copper if it looks ok it will generallly etch
    ok. Also try useing the backing paper off a bunch of laser labels instead of
    the dedicated film that can be purchased. ( its a lot cheaper ).

    Also if the design doesnt look right just clean it off and reapply it.

    Regards

    Peter Rogers
    Original Message
    From: "Chris Loiacono (E-mail)" <chris01@t...>
    To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
    Sent: Friday, July 20, 2001 5:26 AM
    Subject: RE: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Slightly off topic ( PCB min spacings)


    > I also tried press-n-peel, and was not thrilled with it. My conclusion is
    > that it's OK for coarse work, and I'll only use it to prove out a very
    > speculative design. Even 20 mils is difficult: you must be sure that no
    part
    > of your set-up moves at all, and that you have a really good means of
    > registering one side to the other. Also, realize that there will be no
    > plated through holes for vias and other connections - you must make the
    > connection through the holes with a fine wire or similar.
    >
    > Also try http://4pcb.com they are running a special - 2 board min, $33 per
    > w/ silk & mask.
    >
    > Chris
    >
    > >
    Original Message
    > > From: Phil Keller [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=evjILwIO0OCjgsVjS8sh0Mc9flPnsJiOH4F7yiivwZBo0wPdpwRaTa37C2qXFa4OTFzEdg]philk@h...[/url
    > > Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2001 10:36 AM
    > > To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
    > > Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Slightly off topic ( PCB min spacings)
    > >
    > >
    > > All,
    > >
    > > I am in the process of laying out my first PCB (I am using the
    > > Eagle light tool) for a Stamp based controller for a Halloween
    > > display. This board will be done in the "garage" utilizing the press-
    > > n-peel method and Ferric Chloride. I have seen claims of line widths
    > > as small as 5mm but these MAY have been accomplished by someone with
    > > a great deal more experience than I.
    > >
    > > What would you recommend as the minimum line widths and spacing?
    > >
    > > Any rules of thumb that I should be aware of for this technique?
    > >
    > > Thanks for any and all suggestions or recommendations.
    > >
    > > Phil
    > >
    > >
    > > To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
    > > basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
    > > from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the
    > > Subject and Body of the message will be ignored.
    > >
    > >
    > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
    > > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
    > >
    > >
    >
    >
    > To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
    > basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
    > from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and
    Body of the message will be ignored.
    >
    >
    > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
    >
    >
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-07-20 15:15
    Go to the ExpressPCB website, there is a nice tips section that shows what
    size traces to use for various applications.
    http://www.expresspcb.com/ExpressPCBHtm/Tips.htm
    Kerry


    At 05:32 PM 7/19/2001 -0000, you wrote:
    > Thanks for the suggestions. I assume that the right angle problem
    >is on the outside corner, not the inside. Thus "T" connections are
    >not discouraged. Is that correct?
    >
    > Yes I did mean mils not mm. The problems of fingers not connected
    >to the brain sometimes. [noparse]:)[/noparse]
    >
    > That brings up another questions....
    >
    >What is the rule of thumb for selecting line width?
    >How do I determine the width of the Power and Ground traces.
    >What is the resistance (ohms per square) of 1oz/sqft copper?
    >
    > Thanks again,
    >Phil
    >
    >--- In basicstamps@y..., Newzed@a... wrote:
    >> Good morning, Phil
    >>
    >> Minimum spacing between lands should be .012. Land widths of less
    >than .015
    >> are not recommended unless you have a high-speed etcher. Do-it-
    >yourself
    >> etching systems are usually slower and tend to undercut the lands,
    >reducing
    >> the effective width. It is also recommended that you avoid right
    >angle turns
    >> since the etchant will eat away at the corner and again reduce the
    >effective
    >> land width. A land width of .015 solder over copper will carry
    >about 300mils.
    >>
    >> Sid
    >
    >
    >To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
    > basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
    >from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and
    Body of the message will be ignored.
    >
    >
    >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
    >
    >
    >
    Sincerely
    Kerry
    Admin@M...
    WWW server hosting [url=Http://mntnweb.com]Http://mntnweb.com[/url]
    Kerry Barlow
    p.o. box 21
    kirkwood ny
    13795
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-07-20 16:49
    > I also tried press-n-peel, and was not thrilled with it. My conclusion is
    > that it's OK for coarse work, and I'll only use it to prove out a very

    I've used the copier toner transfer thing before. We ended up using copy
    machines and found something very interesting ... that some machines do not
    make a perfect 1 to 1 copy. While not really visible to the naked eye, we
    found that if you held up the front and back pages to the light, that some
    machines distorted the copy and in the scale of the boards, it was
    disastarous. I rememeber running around all over town at 3am trying to find
    copiers that were not messed up [noparse]:)[/noparse] .... it was an ...... interesting ...
    night [noparse]:)[/noparse] ....

    [noparse]:)[/noparse]

    Take care!
    John
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-07-20 17:46
    >I've used the copier toner transfer thing before. We ended up using copy
    >machines and found something very interesting ... that some machines do not
    >make a perfect 1 to 1 copy. While not really visible to the naked eye, we
    >found that if you held up the front and back pages to the light, that some
    >machines distorted the copy and in the scale of the boards, it was
    >disastarous. I rememeber running around all over town at 3am trying to find
    >copiers that were not messed up [noparse]:)[/noparse] .... it was an ...... interesting ...
    >night [noparse]:)[/noparse] ....

    John,

    Some PCB CAD programs let you independently set X and Y output scale. The
    original Tango PCB (written by Protel) and later versions from Protel
    (AutoTrax) and MicroCode Engineering (TraxMaker) probably all have this
    feature. At least one of the DOS versions (EasyTrax?) is free...

    Mike Hardwick, for Decade Engineering -- <http://www.decadenet.com>
    Manufacturer of the famous BOB-II Serial Video Text Display Module!
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-07-20 18:05
    > Some PCB CAD programs let you independently set X and Y output scale. The
    > original Tango PCB (written by Protel) and later versions from Protel
    > (AutoTrax) and MicroCode Engineering (TraxMaker) probably all have this
    > feature. At least one of the DOS versions (EasyTrax?) is free...

    Well, what I was referring to was some copiers would be doing fine and then
    scrunch up part of the page ... i.e. a non linear copy [noparse]:)[/noparse] ... it wasn't a
    scaling issue ...

    Now I just use Ivex and AP circuits [noparse];)[/noparse] .... MUCH easier [noparse]:)[/noparse]

    John
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