Ditigal Control of Light [and Digital Control as well...]
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Posts: 46,084
I built a four channel BS1 controlled system 2.5
years ago [noparse][[/noparse]still working] using PWM output into
OP Amp integrators which then fed Velleman voltage
controlled 300 watt dimmers [noparse][[/noparse]$20. ea]. A bit cheaper
than the MAX300 solution. [noparse][[/noparse]used an LM324 quad op amp].
The PWM updates the op amp integrators often enough to
avoid flicker and sag with the BS1 loop. 1 BS1 pin
per dimmer channel...
have fun, premena
>> snipity....
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 19:40:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lew Muller <lewmu@y...>
I've used a voltage controlled dimmer kit made by
Velleman. I control it with a MAX500 DAC (two wire
serial). Total cost is about $35.00. It does give
very fine control - 255 steps from off to full bright.
This frees the stamp for other things except when
changing the brightness. Jameco sells the Velleman
kit. Another option is to use a X10 dimmer control -
I don't have any experience with those, though.
--- Rus Hardy <rushardy@m...> wrote:
> Anyone have any suggestions on how to control
> brightness of a 120vac 250 watt lightbulb using a BS1 or 2?
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years ago [noparse][[/noparse]still working] using PWM output into
OP Amp integrators which then fed Velleman voltage
controlled 300 watt dimmers [noparse][[/noparse]$20. ea]. A bit cheaper
than the MAX300 solution. [noparse][[/noparse]used an LM324 quad op amp].
The PWM updates the op amp integrators often enough to
avoid flicker and sag with the BS1 loop. 1 BS1 pin
per dimmer channel...
have fun, premena
>> snipity....
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 19:40:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lew Muller <lewmu@y...>
I've used a voltage controlled dimmer kit made by
Velleman. I control it with a MAX500 DAC (two wire
serial). Total cost is about $35.00. It does give
very fine control - 255 steps from off to full bright.
This frees the stamp for other things except when
changing the brightness. Jameco sells the Velleman
kit. Another option is to use a X10 dimmer control -
I don't have any experience with those, though.
--- Rus Hardy <rushardy@m...> wrote:
> Anyone have any suggestions on how to control
> brightness of a 120vac 250 watt lightbulb using a BS1 or 2?
________________________________________________________________
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Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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Comments
However, not being an EE my mind is still reeling from all of the jargon...Iwouldn't know a zero-crossing from a railroad crossing!· LOL!
I see many intriguing possibilities in the answers provided.....
I was originally considering trying to use a digital pot like the XicorX9313 to control a triac...but the schematic I have for an incandescentlamp dimmer shows a 500K pot to control the brightness and I have beenunable to find a 500K equivalent in a digital format.
What I was hoping to be able to do was to use a BS1 (this will be it'sonly function) to raise and lower the wiper in a digital pot to vary thebrightness of the lamp(s).· Perhaps the fact the I want the lamp toflicker (like the flame of a candle or gas lamp) will make the projecteasier.· I do not need linear brightness control.
I am not stuck on the digital pot though, I'm just including it as itwas my original thought....
Bottom line is I haven't the slightest idea where to begin in executingmy original thought or to construct the suggestions people have made, particularlythose below.
Schematics would be wonderful.· Also, I am trying to avoid usingkits from other manufacturers.
Thanks again for all the suggestions!
Rus
s premena wrote:
years ago [noparse][[/noparse]still working] using PWM output into
OP Amp integrators which then fed Velleman voltage
controlled 300 watt dimmers [noparse][[/noparse]$20. ea]. A bit cheaper
than the MAX300 solution. [noparse][[/noparse]used an LM324 quad op amp].
The PWM updates the op amp integrators often enough to
avoid flicker and sag with the BS1 loop. 1 BS1 pin
per dimmer channel...
have fun, premena
>> snipity....
·· Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 19:40:52 -0700 (PDT)
·· From: Lew Muller <lewmu@yahoo.com>
I've used a voltage controlled dimmer kit made by
Velleman.· I control it with a MAX500 DAC (two wire
serial).· Total cost is about $35.00.· It does give
very fine control - 255 steps from off to full bright.
This frees the stamp for other things except when
changing the brightness.· Jameco sells the Velleman
kit.· Another option is to use a X10 dimmer control -
I don't have any experience with those, though.
--- Rus Hardy <rushardy@mindspring.com> wrote:
> Anyone have any suggestions on how to control
> brightness of a 120vac 250 watt lightbulb using a BS1 or 2?
·
--
Bones
"Ghoul-Will Ambassador to the Boneyard"
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http://www.bluedestiny.com/SpiderBucky/
Keeper of the Bucky-n-Thrifty Flame
http://www.boneyardbargains.com/
"my mind wanders....I'm just along for the ride"
To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 09:23:12 -0500
>I was originally considering trying to use a digital pot like the Xicor X9313
to control a triac...but the schematic I
>have for an incandescent lamp dimmer shows a 500K pot to control the
brightness and I have been unable to find a 500K
>equivalent in a digital format.
Too compicated. Use a zero-crossing optically isolated SCR to control your lamp
(Maplin here in the UK sell them, so I bet they're widely available). Set your
Stamp to output PWM to drive the SCR through a suitable current limiting
resister, vary the PWM to adjust the lamp, job done.
Cheers
--
Regards,
Derryck Croker
something very simple:
Get a solid state AC relay which will handle the current you
want to control. Use this as a switch to turn the lamp on.
Excite the relay with random pulses from the BS1. These relays
are basically a triac controlled by an opto-isolator. Once the
triac goes on it won't go off until the AC power waveform goes
to zero a which point the triac turns off until another pulse
from the BS1 turns it on again.
Since the on pulse from the BS1 is not co-ordinated with the
AC line waveform the on times for the lamp will tend to be
of unequal and random length each AC 1/2 cycle.
I'd try this to start with and forget the digital pots etc.
for now... Try a variety of pulseout widths and timings
to the solid state relay which switches the lamp. The BS1
can control the solid state relay directly with one pin.
good luck, premena
<>><<>
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 09:23:12 -0500
From: Rus Hardy <rushardy@m...>
snipppp..
What I was hoping to be able to do was to use a BS1 (this will be it's
only
function) to raise and lower the wiper in a digital pot to vary the
brightness of the lamp(s). Perhaps the fact the I want the lamp to
flicker
(like the flame of a candle or gas lamp) will make the project easier.
I do not need linear brightness control.
snippp...
________________________________________________________________
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Proportional controllers are available that operate from a number of input
types and use zero-cross opto-detectors, rather than random fire opto's. For
a given input, the controller outputs a 'proportion' of on and off AC cycles
to approximately equal the desired percentage of linear output. These are
generally acceptable for control of higher-mass heater loads, but are not
often used for lighting - because the proportion of on/off cycles at times
leaves a string of off cycles long enough for the filament to flicker. The
beauty of these is that the thyristor only switches at, or very near 0V, so
there's no danger of damaging the silicon, and there is little or no noise
generated to affect your controller. They are also UL recognized for AC line
connection and very inexpensive and available, generally in hockey-puck
packages.
Chris
>
Original Message
> From: s premena [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=3z1BuYsm7ixiCfZFHj4kWbjrtVApMjny0pTS96gk92IM80AfwlwcPF8iAkAZHw5Fz2kGRcwl8Psq4s0]premzee@j...[/url
> Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 9:43 AM
> To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] RE[noparse]:D[/noparse]itigal Control of Light [noparse][[/noparse]and
> Digital Control
> as well...]
>
>
> Well, for flickering effect you might just try initially
> something very simple:
>
> Get a solid state AC relay which will handle the current you
> want to control. Use this as a switch to turn the lamp on.
>
> Excite the relay with random pulses from the BS1. These relays
> are basically a triac controlled by an opto-isolator. Once the
> triac goes on it won't go off until the AC power waveform goes
> to zero a which point the triac turns off until another pulse
> from the BS1 turns it on again.
>
> Since the on pulse from the BS1 is not co-ordinated with the
> AC line waveform the on times for the lamp will tend to be
> of unequal and random length each AC 1/2 cycle.
>
> I'd try this to start with and forget the digital pots etc.
> for now... Try a variety of pulseout widths and timings
> to the solid state relay which switches the lamp. The BS1
> can control the solid state relay directly with one pin.
>
> good luck, premena
>
> <>><<>
> Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 09:23:12 -0500
> From: Rus Hardy <rushardy@m...>
>
> snipppp..
> What I was hoping to be able to do was to use a BS1 (this will be it's
> only
> function) to raise and lower the wiper in a digital pot to vary the
> brightness of the lamp(s). Perhaps the fact the I want the lamp to
> flicker
> (like the flame of a candle or gas lamp) will make the project easier.
>
> I do not need linear brightness control.
> snippp...
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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>
>
>
opto-isolator and a 99 cent triac together with a Stamp and create your own
proportional controller. If this sonds like it may work, I'd be more than
glad to help out...
Chris
>
Original Message
> From: Chris Loiacono [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=nSFFzgk7b9LeCJ88wEyAZbWixEQSo0FnUppAMGKR8xGG6iffD5HTK8iju1TdW-skjWKvQzHBY05_AqOeeA]chris@m...[/urlOn Behalf Of Chris
> Loiacono (E-mail)
> Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 10:08 AM
> To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] RE[noparse]:D[/noparse]itigal Control of Light [noparse][[/noparse]and Digital
> Control as well...]
>
>
> Wow, this has been one well-exercised subject....So you want flicker?
> Proportional controllers are available that operate from a
> number of input
> types and use zero-cross opto-detectors, rather than random
> fire opto's. For
> a given input, the controller outputs a 'proportion' of on
> and off AC cycles
> to approximately equal the desired percentage of linear
> output. These are
> generally acceptable for control of higher-mass heater loads,
> but are not
> often used for lighting - because the proportion of on/off
> cycles at times
> leaves a string of off cycles long enough for the filament to
> flicker. The
> beauty of these is that the thyristor only switches at, or
> very near 0V, so
> there's no danger of damaging the silicon, and there is
> little or no noise
> generated to affect your controller. They are also UL
> recognized for AC line
> connection and very inexpensive and available, generally in
> hockey-puck
> packages.
>
> Chris
>
> >
Original Message
> > From: s premena [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=kK-Nj_nkiI_RmJS3qAC3E0ip_-n_fsLw5KYiVbykITXtHnokvpk2bRWutGmv9o0WKnzcDpJK]premzee@j...[/url
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 9:43 AM
> > To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] RE[noparse]:D[/noparse]itigal Control of Light [noparse][[/noparse]and
> > Digital Control
> > as well...]
> >
> >
> > Well, for flickering effect you might just try initially
> > something very simple:
> >
> > Get a solid state AC relay which will handle the current you
> > want to control. Use this as a switch to turn the lamp on.
> >
> > Excite the relay with random pulses from the BS1. These relays
> > are basically a triac controlled by an opto-isolator. Once the
> > triac goes on it won't go off until the AC power waveform goes
> > to zero a which point the triac turns off until another pulse
> > from the BS1 turns it on again.
> >
> > Since the on pulse from the BS1 is not co-ordinated with the
> > AC line waveform the on times for the lamp will tend to be
> > of unequal and random length each AC 1/2 cycle.
> >
> > I'd try this to start with and forget the digital pots etc.
> > for now... Try a variety of pulseout widths and timings
> > to the solid state relay which switches the lamp. The BS1
> > can control the solid state relay directly with one pin.
> >
> > good luck, premena
> >
> > <>><<>
> > Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 09:23:12 -0500
> > From: Rus Hardy <rushardy@m...>
> >
> > snipppp..
> > What I was hoping to be able to do was to use a BS1 (this
> will be it's
> > only
> > function) to raise and lower the wiper in a digital pot to vary the
> > brightness of the lamp(s). Perhaps the fact the I want the lamp to
> > flicker
> > (like the flame of a candle or gas lamp) will make the
> project easier.
> >
> > I do not need linear brightness control.
> > snippp...
> >
> > ________________________________________________________________
> > GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> > Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> > Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
> > http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
> >
> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> > basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > from the same email address that you subscribed with. Text
> > in the Subject and Body of the message will be ignored.
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> from the same email address that you subscribed with. Text
> in the Subject and Body of the message will be ignored.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Can you recommend such a Proportional Controller chip (opto isolated,
zero crossing)?
What do I look for in Digi-Key catalog?
I'm looking to switch some serious current (15 amps or so) with a
suitably heat sinked triac.
At 10:07 AM -0400 6/19/01, Chris Loiacono (E-mail), you wrote about
Proportional controllers[noparse]:D[/noparse]itigal Control of Light :
>Wow, this has been one well-exercised subject....So you want flicker?
>Proportional controllers are available that operate from a number of input
>types and use zero-cross opto-detectors, rather than random fire opto's. For
>a given input, the controller outputs a 'proportion' of on and off AC cycles
>to approximately equal the desired percentage of linear output. These are
>generally acceptable for control of higher-mass heater loads, but are not
>often used for lighting - because the proportion of on/off cycles at times
>leaves a string of off cycles long enough for the filament to flicker. The
>beauty of these is that the thyristor only switches at, or very near 0V, so
>there's no danger of damaging the silicon, and there is little or no noise
>generated to affect your controller. They are also UL recognized for AC line
>connection and very inexpensive and available, generally in hockey-puck
>packages.
>
>Chris
--
.-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-
\ / \ / \ N / \ C / \ S / \ S / \ M / \ / \ /
`-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-'
Chuck Britton Education is what is left when
britton@n... you have forgotten everything
North Carolina School of Science & Math you learned in school.
(919) 286-3366 x224 Albert Einstein, 1936
interest to you. For example, their D1225-10 will control a 25A
(with a half-cycle surge current up to 250A) load at 24 to 140 VAC.
The -10 model will turn on when you pulse it and turn off at the next
AC zero crossing. Of course you would have to pulse it at the right
time every half cycle. This solid state relay sells for about $30 at
www.newark.com. (The D1225 (with no -10) turns on only at the next
AC zero crossing and is not useful as a dimmer.)
Crydom also makes a module intended for incandescant dimming
applications. The 7PCV2415 or 10PCV2415 ($71 at Newark) respond,
respectively, to 2-7 Vdc and 2-10 Vdc for 0-100% on. This price is
comparable to the programmable 600 watt SwitchLinc X-10 dimmer modules
such as found at www.smarthome.com. A disadvantage is that you would
need an isolated DAC or transitor circuit to provide the 7 or 10
volts. (Crydom also makes a *linear* proportional controller that
responds to 0-5 Vdc but they are quite expensive.)
I don't know what your application is but I find that a pair of
programmable X-10 dimmers coupled with my Philips Pronto IR Remote and
an IR-543 X-10 receiver allows me to easily set my home theater
lighting to several levels at settable dim and restore rates (I use
15 seconds). Wall switches manually override as well.
--- In basicstamps@y..., Chuck Britton <cvbritton@t...> wrote:
> I'd like to exercise this subject a bit MORE ;-)
>
> Can you recommend such a Proportional Controller chip (opto
isolated,
> zero crossing)?
> What do I look for in Digi-Key catalog?
>
> I'm looking to switch some serious current (15 amps or so) with a
> suitably heat sinked triac.
>
>
>
>
> At 10:07 AM -0400 6/19/01, Chris Loiacono (E-mail), you wrote about
> Proportional controllers[noparse]:D[/noparse]itigal Control of Light :
>
>
> >Wow, this has been one well-exercised subject....So you want
flicker?
> >Proportional controllers are available that operate from a number
of input
> >types and use zero-cross opto-detectors, rather than random fire
opto's. For
> >a given input, the controller outputs a 'proportion' of on and off
AC cycles
> >to approximately equal the desired percentage of linear output.
These are
> >generally acceptable for control of higher-mass heater loads, but
are not
> >often used for lighting - because the proportion of on/off cycles
at times
> >leaves a string of off cycles long enough for the filament to
flicker. The
> >beauty of these is that the thyristor only switches at, or very
near 0V, so
> >there's no danger of damaging the silicon, and there is little or
no noise
> >generated to affect your controller. They are also UL recognized
for AC line
> >connection and very inexpensive and available, generally in
hockey-puck
> >packages.
> >
> >Chris
> --
> .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-.
.-. .-
> \ / \ / \ N / \ C / \ S / \ S / \ M / \ /
\ /
> `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-'
`-'
> Chuck Britton Education is
what is left when
> britton@n... you have forgotten
everything
> North Carolina School of Science & Math you learned in
school.
> (919) 286-3366 x224 Albert
Einstein, 1936