Stamp Programming Cable and Breadboard Socket. Total Cost= $2.83
Archiver
Posts: 46,084
There was a post a short while back inquiring about alternative methods
of connecting the Stamp Serial Port Programming Cable to a standard
breadboard.
Here is the solution I used. It includes both a Programming Cable and a
Breadboard Socket (although if you already have your own cable you can
fashion a solution for only .39¢).
STAMP PROGRAMMING CABLE & BREADBOARD SOCKET
Total Cost = $2.83
PARTS LIST:
a) D-Subminiature Straight Solder-Type 9-Contact Connector/Female
(Jameco #15771, .45¢)
b) D-Subminiature Straight Solder-Type 9-Contact Connector/ Male
(Jameco #15747, .35¢) ...OR OPTIONALLY, those on a tight budget can
sustitute four Male Crimp Pins (Jameco #185421 should work, .05¢/each,
total=.20¢) and save .15¢.
c) D-Subminiature Straight PC Mount 9-Contact Connector/Female (Jamco
#15780, .39¢)
d) 28AWG Flat Ribbon Cable, 10ft., 10 conductors (Jameco #135538,
$1.49)
CONSTRUCTION:
Page #27 of the BASIC Stamp Programming Manual illustrates the wiring
of the programming cable. Connect the PC Ports #2 & #3 together for
automatic port detection. At this point, you'll see that you only need
to utilize 4 pins of the PC Serial Port to communicate with the Stamp.
Breadboard Socket:
First, take the PC Mount 9-Contact Female Connector and clip off pins
#1,#6,#7,#8,#9. This will leave you with pins #2,#3,#4,#5. These latter
pins will all be inline. Without the staggered grid of all 9 PC mount
pins to interfere, this connector will plug nicely into a standard 0.1"
hole spacing of the standard issue breadboard.
Cable:
Take the 10 connector ribbon cable and remove one connector to leave
you with 9.
Solder a jumper wire between pins #6 & #7 on the 9-Contact Female
Connector for DSR and RTS. Solder the remaining pins to one end of the
ribbon cable. This female connector plugs into the PC serial port.
Solder the 9-Contact Male Connector to one end of the ribbon cable and
be mindful of the pin numbering. This plugs into the breadboard socket.
[noparse][[/noparse]If you are using male crimp pins insead of the Male 9-Pin Connector,
crimp 4 pins to the respective ribbon cable conductors, these will plug
into the breadboard socket, careful to mate with respective pins]
COMMENTS:
Although you could use a ribbon cable with only 4 conductors, since you
are only connecting 4 serial port pins, I used a 9 conductor cable and
soldered the 'dead' pins anyway to add a mechanical solidity to the
connection.
Shrink wrap, tape, or otherwise insulate the connections, with an eye
to reinforcing the strength of the connection**, as you will probably
be tugging and pulling on these cables creating stress during the
cables useful life.
Works like a charm...and CHEAP!
**Does anyone know of a better method (inexpensive) of strengthning and
relieving stress on the soldered connection of the ribbon cable and 9
Pin connector? I'm a novice here, and there must be a more secure
method.
Cheers,
-Neal
of connecting the Stamp Serial Port Programming Cable to a standard
breadboard.
Here is the solution I used. It includes both a Programming Cable and a
Breadboard Socket (although if you already have your own cable you can
fashion a solution for only .39¢).
STAMP PROGRAMMING CABLE & BREADBOARD SOCKET
Total Cost = $2.83
PARTS LIST:
a) D-Subminiature Straight Solder-Type 9-Contact Connector/Female
(Jameco #15771, .45¢)
b) D-Subminiature Straight Solder-Type 9-Contact Connector/ Male
(Jameco #15747, .35¢) ...OR OPTIONALLY, those on a tight budget can
sustitute four Male Crimp Pins (Jameco #185421 should work, .05¢/each,
total=.20¢) and save .15¢.
c) D-Subminiature Straight PC Mount 9-Contact Connector/Female (Jamco
#15780, .39¢)
d) 28AWG Flat Ribbon Cable, 10ft., 10 conductors (Jameco #135538,
$1.49)
CONSTRUCTION:
Page #27 of the BASIC Stamp Programming Manual illustrates the wiring
of the programming cable. Connect the PC Ports #2 & #3 together for
automatic port detection. At this point, you'll see that you only need
to utilize 4 pins of the PC Serial Port to communicate with the Stamp.
Breadboard Socket:
First, take the PC Mount 9-Contact Female Connector and clip off pins
#1,#6,#7,#8,#9. This will leave you with pins #2,#3,#4,#5. These latter
pins will all be inline. Without the staggered grid of all 9 PC mount
pins to interfere, this connector will plug nicely into a standard 0.1"
hole spacing of the standard issue breadboard.
Cable:
Take the 10 connector ribbon cable and remove one connector to leave
you with 9.
Solder a jumper wire between pins #6 & #7 on the 9-Contact Female
Connector for DSR and RTS. Solder the remaining pins to one end of the
ribbon cable. This female connector plugs into the PC serial port.
Solder the 9-Contact Male Connector to one end of the ribbon cable and
be mindful of the pin numbering. This plugs into the breadboard socket.
[noparse][[/noparse]If you are using male crimp pins insead of the Male 9-Pin Connector,
crimp 4 pins to the respective ribbon cable conductors, these will plug
into the breadboard socket, careful to mate with respective pins]
COMMENTS:
Although you could use a ribbon cable with only 4 conductors, since you
are only connecting 4 serial port pins, I used a 9 conductor cable and
soldered the 'dead' pins anyway to add a mechanical solidity to the
connection.
Shrink wrap, tape, or otherwise insulate the connections, with an eye
to reinforcing the strength of the connection**, as you will probably
be tugging and pulling on these cables creating stress during the
cables useful life.
Works like a charm...and CHEAP!
**Does anyone know of a better method (inexpensive) of strengthning and
relieving stress on the soldered connection of the ribbon cable and 9
Pin connector? I'm a novice here, and there must be a more secure
method.
Cheers,
-Neal
Comments
... Very informative post deleted to save bandwidth ...
> **Does anyone know of a better method (inexpensive) of strengthning
and
> relieving stress on the soldered connection of the ribbon cable and
9
> Pin connector? I'm a novice here, and there must be a more secure
> method.
Neal,
Great post, I'm just getting to the point of breadboarding with the
Stamp, so I'll be able to use your idea. Here's a strain relief
method I use:
1. Ensure your connections are correct! Test your cable, connector,
what-have-you... This is a one time deal. Also, clean soldered
connections of flux residue.
2. Tie dental floss _tightly_ around the wires near the connector.
(waxed is best, flavor is your option) Leave long ends for next
step.
3. Tie free ends, one per side, to the 'ears' of the connector. Tie
tightly enough that the wires are pulled toward the connector.
4. Form a 'dam' around the solder side of the connector with masking
tape or whatever, and also cover the holes on the ears on the contact
side of the connector.
5. Fill the mold cavity 'dam' you just made with epoxy or potting
compound of your choice. For stranded wire I use epoxy, solid wire
gets silicone sealent and a wire bail (handle) to the ears.
6. Allow to set.
Extra tips: The best looking home-made hoods of this type I've ever
made are when I used waxed paper for the mold cavity on an epoxy job,
the epoxy doesn't stick to the wax and the results are a smooth clear
plastic encapsulation.
Have fun, clean up your messes,
Thomas