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5VDC Reed Relay — Parallax Forums

5VDC Reed Relay

ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
edited 2001-04-17 21:40 in General Discussion
An easy question from a beginner:

I just purchased a 5VDC Reed Relay from radio shack (275-232).
I just want to know the best way to wire this to the stamp without
damaging it. I am assuming I need to wire the stamp to the coil
connections and the other wires go to the circuit I want to switch on
and off. Is this correct? How should I do it safely?

I just want to use the stamp to control a second independent circuit.

Thank You

Mike

Comments

  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-04-14 03:48
    You need to drive the relay with a transistor. A 2N2222 works OK.

    Connect one coil terminal to +5 VDC. Connect the other coil terminal to the
    collector of the 2n2222. Connect the emitter of the 2N2222 to ground.
    Connect the base of the 2N2222 to one leg of a 10k resistor and connect the
    other leg of the resistor to the stamp pin.

    Original Message

    > I just purchased a 5VDC Reed Relay from radio shack (275-232).
    > I just want to know the best way to wire this to the stamp without
    > damaging it. I am assuming I need to wire the stamp to the coil
    > connections and the other wires go to the circuit I want to switch on
    > and off. Is this correct? How should I do it safely?
    >
    > I just want to use the stamp to control a second independent circuit.
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-04-14 04:10
    One more thing. Put a diode like a 1N914 or 1N4148 (not overly critical)
    "backwards" across the coil. Put the banded end towards +5V and the
    non-banded end to the collector side. This will absorb reverse spikes in the
    coil before they can kill the transistor.

    The voltage developed is almost entirely a function of the speed of the
    switching, so you can get some large (short duration) voltages (this is the
    same idea behind a spark gap, ignition coil, etc.).

    Al Williams
    AWC
    * New PAK-IX floating point A/D: http://www.al-williams.com/awce/pak9.htm


    >
    Original Message
    > From: Rodent [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=Cz4ILQNQejBOazEfgpqwX16pbGQfqFsPdwZIuLT3BGuvDtQ52Dzxl9DBFN4csVz04EiztmUOaZLg-A]daweasel@s...[/url
    > Sent: Friday, April 13, 2001 9:49 PM
    > To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
    > Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] 5VDC Reed Relay
    >
    >
    > You need to drive the relay with a transistor. A 2N2222 works OK.
    >
    > Connect one coil terminal to +5 VDC. Connect the other coil
    > terminal to the
    > collector of the 2n2222. Connect the emitter of the 2N2222 to ground.
    > Connect the base of the 2N2222 to one leg of a 10k resistor and
    > connect the
    > other leg of the resistor to the stamp pin.
    >
    >
    Original Message
    >
    > > I just purchased a 5VDC Reed Relay from radio shack (275-232).
    > > I just want to know the best way to wire this to the stamp without
    > > damaging it. I am assuming I need to wire the stamp to the coil
    > > connections and the other wires go to the circuit I want to switch on
    > > and off. Is this correct? How should I do it safely?
    > >
    > > I just want to use the stamp to control a second independent circuit.
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
    >
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-04-14 04:51
    Mike-here is a page with a nice diagram for hooking up a relay to a
    microcontroller. The diode is important to protect the microcontroller from a
    current surge when you turn the relay off and the magnetic field in the coil
    collapses.
    http://www.seattlerobotics.org/encoder/aug99/ballbot.html

    You wrote:

    I just purchased a 5VDC Reed Relay from radio shack (275-232).
    I just want to know the best way to wire this to the stamp without
    damaging it. I am assuming I need to wire the stamp to the coil
    connections and the other wires go to the circuit I want to switch on
    and off. Is this correct? How should I do it safely?

    have fun-build robots


    ===========
    Larry Geib
    ljgeib@a...
    ===========
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-04-16 16:13
    If the relay coil does not have a snubber across it the transistor
    will die a quick, violent death. When the transistor turns off the
    magnetic field in the relay coil collapses. This would appear as a
    (possibly) large voltage spike across the transistor.

    Easiest thing to do:

    place a 1N4007 diode across the relay coil, anode towards the 2n2222
    collector.

    Ciao

    Richard


    --- In basicstamps@y..., Rodent <daweasel@s...> wrote:
    > You need to drive the relay with a transistor. A 2N2222 works OK.
    >
    > Connect one coil terminal to +5 VDC. Connect the other coil
    terminal to the
    > collector of the 2n2222. Connect the emitter of the 2N2222 to
    ground.
    > Connect the base of the 2N2222 to one leg of a 10k resistor and
    connect the
    > other leg of the resistor to the stamp pin.
    >
    >
    Original Message
    >
    > > I just purchased a 5VDC Reed Relay from radio shack (275-
    232).
    > > I just want to know the best way to wire this to the stamp without
    > > damaging it. I am assuming I need to wire the stamp to the coil
    > > connections and the other wires go to the circuit I want to
    switch on
    > > and off. Is this correct? How should I do it safely?
    > >
    > > I just want to use the stamp to control a second independent
    circuit.
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-04-16 16:30
    Depends on the size of the relay. I've run the little ones both with and
    without. As a rule, I use them, but it was the wee hours when I wrote the
    reply and it slipped my mind.

    Original Message

    > If the relay coil does not have a snubber across it the transistor
    > will die a quick, violent death. When the transistor turns off the
    > magnetic field in the relay coil collapses. This would appear as a
    > (possibly) large voltage spike across the transistor.
    >
    > Easiest thing to do:
    >
    > place a 1N4007 diode across the relay coil, anode towards the 2n2222
    > collector.
    >
    > Ciao
    >
    > Richard
    >
    >
    > --- In basicstamps@y..., Rodent <daweasel@s...> wrote:
    > > You need to drive the relay with a transistor. A 2N2222 works OK.
    > >
    > > Connect one coil terminal to +5 VDC. Connect the other coil
    > terminal to the
    > > collector of the 2n2222. Connect the emitter of the 2N2222 to
    > ground.
    > > Connect the base of the 2N2222 to one leg of a 10k resistor and
    > connect the
    > > other leg of the resistor to the stamp pin.
    > >
    > >
    Original Message
    > >
    > > > I just purchased a 5VDC Reed Relay from radio shack (275-
    > 232).
    > > > I just want to know the best way to wire this to the stamp without
    > > > damaging it. I am assuming I need to wire the stamp to the coil
    > > > connections and the other wires go to the circuit I want to
    > switch on
    > > > and off. Is this correct? How should I do it safely?
    > > >
    > > > I just want to use the stamp to control a second independent
    > circuit.
    >
    >
    >
    >
    > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
    >
    >
    >
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-04-16 18:47
    I recently bought a package of 20 diodes from Ratshack and I don't recall if
    they have a part number. Question: What kind of problems can occur if I use
    such a generic diode?
    Dave
    --- iceninevt@y... wrote:
    > If the relay coil does not have a snubber across it the transistor
    > will die a quick, violent death. When the transistor turns off the
    > magnetic field in the relay coil collapses. This would appear as a
    > (possibly) large voltage spike across the transistor.
    >
    > Easiest thing to do:
    >
    > place a 1N4007 diode across the relay coil, anode towards the 2n2222
    > collector.
    >
    > Ciao
    >
    > Richard
    >
    >
    > --- In basicstamps@y..., Rodent <daweasel@s...> wrote:
    > > You need to drive the relay with a transistor. A 2N2222 works OK.
    > >
    > > Connect one coil terminal to +5 VDC. Connect the other coil
    > terminal to the
    > > collector of the 2n2222. Connect the emitter of the 2N2222 to
    > ground.
    > > Connect the base of the 2N2222 to one leg of a 10k resistor and
    > connect the
    > > other leg of the resistor to the stamp pin.
    > >
    > >
    Original Message
    > >
    > > > I just purchased a 5VDC Reed Relay from radio shack (275-
    > 232).
    > > > I just want to know the best way to wire this to the stamp without
    > > > damaging it. I am assuming I need to wire the stamp to the coil
    > > > connections and the other wires go to the circuit I want to
    > switch on
    > > > and off. Is this correct? How should I do it safely?
    > > >
    > > > I just want to use the stamp to control a second independent
    > circuit.
    >
    >
    >
    >
    > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
    >
    >


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  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-04-16 19:01
    david cousins wrote:
    I recently bought a package of 20 diodes from Ratshackand I don't recall if
    they have a part number.· Question: What kind of problems canoccur if I use
    such a generic diode?
    Dave
    --- iceninevt@yahoo.com wrote:
    ·

    Generic stamp failure??· LOL!

    Seriously though if the output is not properly protected by the diodeyou can seriously fry your stamp.

    Rus


    --
    Rus Hardy
    "Lucky Devil"
    Atrophies - Ghoulishly Original Awards & Trophies
    http://www.bluedestiny.com/Atrophies/
    SpiderBucky & SpiderThrifty - Boney Superheroes
    http://www.bluedestiny.com/SpiderBucky/
    Keeper of the Bucky-n-Thrifty Flame
    http://www.boneyardbargains.com/
    "my mind wanders....I'm just along for the ride"
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-04-16 19:05
    Are you saying that I shouldn't use these generic diodes? That I need a
    special diode for the reed relay protection? I don't think I phrased my
    previous question correctly.
    dave
    --- Rus Hardy <rushardy@m...> wrote:
    > david cousins wrote:
    >
    > > I recently bought a package of 20 diodes from Ratshack and I don't recall
    > if
    > > they have a part number. Question: What kind of problems can occur if I
    > use
    > > such a generic diode?
    > > Dave
    > > --- iceninevt@y... wrote:
    > >
    >
    > Generic stamp failure?? LOL!
    >
    > Seriously though if the output is not properly protected by the diode you can
    > seriously fry your stamp.
    >
    > Rus
    >
    >
    > --
    > Rus Hardy
    > "Lucky Devil"
    > Atrophies - Ghoulishly Original Awards & Trophies
    > http://www.bluedestiny.com/Atrophies/
    > SpiderBucky & SpiderThrifty - Boney Superheroes
    > http://www.bluedestiny.com/SpiderBucky/
    > Keeper of the Bucky-n-Thrifty Flame
    > http://www.boneyardbargains.com/
    > "my mind wanders....I'm just along for the ride"
    >
    >


    __________________________________________________
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    Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
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  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-04-16 19:16
    The voltage spike created by the coils collapsing magnetic field can
    be many times the voltage applied to it. The 1N4007 is a good choice,
    I expect there will be a bunch of them in the RS diode bundle. The RS
    diodes do have part numbers

    Keep in mind that a speaker (not a piezo, a bona-fide voice coil type)
    can damage a stamp, or a transistor, with equal ease as the relay
    coil, for exactly the same reasons.

    Placing a reverse-biased diode across an inductive load should be
    considered an absololute necessity, every single time. There are
    other ways of getting the job done, ie: a RC snubber, but I almost
    always use the diode.

    If you really want to protect your stamp consider coupling the stamp
    output pin to the outside world using an optocoupler. They are not
    difficult to use and afford the largest degree of protection to the
    stamp.

    Regards

    Rich

    --- In basicstamps@y..., david cousins <cuz_hsv@y...> wrote:
    > I recently bought a package of 20 diodes from Ratshack and I don't
    recall if
    > they have a part number. Question: What kind of problems can occur
    if I use
    > such a generic diode?
    > Dave
    > --- iceninevt@y... wrote:
    > > If the relay coil does not have a snubber across it the
    transistor
    > > will die a quick, violent death. When the transistor turns off
    the
    > > magnetic field in the relay coil collapses. This would appear as
    a
    > > (possibly) large voltage spike across the transistor.
    > >
    > > Easiest thing to do:
    > >
    > > place a 1N4007 diode across the relay coil, anode towards the
    2n2222
    > > collector.
    > >
    > > Ciao
    > >
    > > Richard
    > >
    > >
    > > --- In basicstamps@y..., Rodent <daweasel@s...> wrote:
    > > > You need to drive the relay with a transistor. A 2N2222 works
    OK.
    > > >
    > > > Connect one coil terminal to +5 VDC. Connect the other coil
    > > terminal to the
    > > > collector of the 2n2222. Connect the emitter of the 2N2222 to
    > > ground.
    > > > Connect the base of the 2N2222 to one leg of a 10k resistor and
    > > connect the
    > > > other leg of the resistor to the stamp pin.
    > > >
    > > >
    Original Message
    > > >
    > > > > I just purchased a 5VDC Reed Relay from radio shack (275-
    > > 232).
    > > > > I just want to know the best way to wire this to the stamp
    without
    > > > > damaging it. I am assuming I need to wire the stamp to the
    coil
    > > > > connections and the other wires go to the circuit I want to
    > > switch on
    > > > > and off. Is this correct? How should I do it safely?
    > > > >
    > > > > I just want to use the stamp to control a second independent
    > > circuit.
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
    > >
    > >
    >
    >
    > __________________________________________________
    > Do You Yahoo!?
    > Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
    > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-04-16 19:18
    I bought the same pack of diodes I think, small 2mm glass encapsulated
    kind? I've used them with 5vdc relays in 2 different projects, one is
    nearing 2 years run time without a problem. I've always put the black band
    toward the +5v (if I remember correctly)

    Robert Staph, W3RCS
    The Center for Advanced Technologies


    Original Message
    From: david cousins <cuz_hsv@y...>
    To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
    Sent: Monday, April 16, 2001 2:05 PM
    Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: 5VDC Reed Relay


    > Are you saying that I shouldn't use these generic diodes? That I need a
    > special diode for the reed relay protection? I don't think I phrased my
    > previous question correctly.
    > dave
    > --- Rus Hardy <rushardy@m...> wrote:
    > > david cousins wrote:
    > >
    > > > I recently bought a package of 20 diodes from Ratshack and I don't
    recall
    > > if
    > > > they have a part number. Question: What kind of problems can occur if
    I
    > > use
    > > > such a generic diode?
    > > > Dave
    > > > --- iceninevt@y... wrote:
    > > >
    > >
    > > Generic stamp failure?? LOL!
    > >
    > > Seriously though if the output is not properly protected by the diode
    you can
    > > seriously fry your stamp.
    > >
    > > Rus
    > >
    > >
    > > --
    > > Rus Hardy
    > > "Lucky Devil"
    > > Atrophies - Ghoulishly Original Awards & Trophies
    > > http://www.bluedestiny.com/Atrophies/
    > > SpiderBucky & SpiderThrifty - Boney Superheroes
    > > http://www.bluedestiny.com/SpiderBucky/
    > > Keeper of the Bucky-n-Thrifty Flame
    > > http://www.boneyardbargains.com/
    > > "my mind wanders....I'm just along for the ride"
    > >
    > >
    >
    >
    > __________________________________________________
    > Do You Yahoo!?
    > Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
    > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
    >
    >
    >
    > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
    >
    >
    >
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-04-16 19:23
    David,

    I am assuming since you are referring to them a "generic" diodes, and they do
    not
    have parts numbers on them and that you have no idea what "type" diodes they
    are.....Is this correct?....

    I would be afraid of using a "generic" diode (one for which you have no
    information) in this case. Especially considering the cost of a stamp versus
    the
    cost of diodes.

    I would spend the few cents and make sure I have a properly rated diode. I'm
    using
    (at the lists recommendation) the 1N4XXX series diodes and have had no problems.
    ie... 1N4001, 1N4005, 1N4007.

    Rus




    david cousins wrote:

    > Are you saying that I shouldn't use these generic diodes? That I need a
    > special diode for the reed relay protection? I don't think I phrased my
    > previous question correctly.
    > dave
    > --- Rus Hardy <rushardy@m...> wrote:
    > > david cousins wrote:
    > >
    > > > I recently bought a package of 20 diodes from Ratshack and I don't recall
    > > if
    > > > they have a part number. Question: What kind of problems can occur if I
    > > use
    > > > such a generic diode?
    > > > Dave
    > > > --- iceninevt@y... wrote:
    > > >
    > >
    > > Generic stamp failure?? LOL!
    > >
    > > Seriously though if the output is not properly protected by the diode you
    can
    > > seriously fry your stamp.
    > >
    > > Rus
    > >
    > >

    --
    Rus Hardy
    "Lucky Devil"
    Atrophies - Ghoulishly Original Awards & Trophies
    http://www.bluedestiny.com/Atrophies/
    SpiderBucky & SpiderThrifty - Boney Superheroes
    http://www.bluedestiny.com/SpiderBucky/
    Keeper of the Bucky-n-Thrifty Flame
    http://www.boneyardbargains.com/
    "my mind wanders....I'm just along for the ride"
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-04-16 19:38
    It's me again, with another version of the diode question:
    With a resistor, we can measure resistance to voltage. Verification by
    measuring voltage drop.
    With a capacitor, we can store a large or small charge. Verification by
    measuring voltage and a time delay.
    Now how about these diodes. Keep in mind that I'm a civil engineer. What
    differentiates one diode from another? Is it a measure of power?

    Thanks in advance.
    dave

    --- iceninevt@y... wrote:
    > The voltage spike created by the coils collapsing magnetic field can
    > be many times the voltage applied to it. The 1N4007 is a good choice,
    > I expect there will be a bunch of them in the RS diode bundle. The RS
    > diodes do have part numbers
    >
    > Keep in mind that a speaker (not a piezo, a bona-fide voice coil type)
    > can damage a stamp, or a transistor, with equal ease as the relay
    > coil, for exactly the same reasons.
    >
    > Placing a reverse-biased diode across an inductive load should be
    > considered an absololute necessity, every single time. There are
    > other ways of getting the job done, ie: a RC snubber, but I almost
    > always use the diode.
    >
    > If you really want to protect your stamp consider coupling the stamp
    > output pin to the outside world using an optocoupler. They are not
    > difficult to use and afford the largest degree of protection to the
    > stamp.
    >
    > Regards
    >
    > Rich
    >
    > --- In basicstamps@y..., david cousins <cuz_hsv@y...> wrote:
    > > I recently bought a package of 20 diodes from Ratshack and I don't
    > recall if
    > > they have a part number. Question: What kind of problems can occur
    > if I use
    > > such a generic diode?
    > > Dave
    > > --- iceninevt@y... wrote:
    > > > If the relay coil does not have a snubber across it the
    > transistor
    > > > will die a quick, violent death. When the transistor turns off
    > the
    > > > magnetic field in the relay coil collapses. This would appear as
    > a
    > > > (possibly) large voltage spike across the transistor.
    > > >
    > > > Easiest thing to do:
    > > >
    > > > place a 1N4007 diode across the relay coil, anode towards the
    > 2n2222
    > > > collector.
    > > >
    > > > Ciao
    > > >
    > > > Richard
    > > >
    > > >
    > > > --- In basicstamps@y..., Rodent <daweasel@s...> wrote:
    > > > > You need to drive the relay with a transistor. A 2N2222 works
    > OK.
    > > > >
    > > > > Connect one coil terminal to +5 VDC. Connect the other coil
    > > > terminal to the
    > > > > collector of the 2n2222. Connect the emitter of the 2N2222 to
    > > > ground.
    > > > > Connect the base of the 2N2222 to one leg of a 10k resistor and
    > > > connect the
    > > > > other leg of the resistor to the stamp pin.
    > > > >
    > > > >
    Original Message
    > > > >
    > > > > > I just purchased a 5VDC Reed Relay from radio shack (275-
    > > > 232).
    > > > > > I just want to know the best way to wire this to the stamp
    > without
    > > > > > damaging it. I am assuming I need to wire the stamp to the
    > coil
    > > > > > connections and the other wires go to the circuit I want to
    > > > switch on
    > > > > > and off. Is this correct? How should I do it safely?
    > > > > >
    > > > > > I just want to use the stamp to control a second independent
    > > > circuit.
    > > >
    > > >
    > > >
    > > >
    > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
    > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
    > > >
    > > >
    > >
    > >
    > > __________________________________________________
    > > Do You Yahoo!?
    > > Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
    > > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
    >
    >
    >
    >
    > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
    >
    >


    __________________________________________________
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    Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
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  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-04-16 19:43
    Robert,
    Thanks for the reply. I really enjoy this electronics stuff, and folks like
    yourself, have helped me a bunch.
    Dave
    --- Robert Staph <rstaph@a...> wrote:
    > I bought the same pack of diodes I think, small 2mm glass encapsulated
    > kind? I've used them with 5vdc relays in 2 different projects, one is
    > nearing 2 years run time without a problem. I've always put the black band
    > toward the +5v (if I remember correctly)
    >
    > Robert Staph, W3RCS
    > The Center for Advanced Technologies
    >
    >
    >
    Original Message
    > From: david cousins <cuz_hsv@y...>
    > To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
    > Sent: Monday, April 16, 2001 2:05 PM
    > Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: 5VDC Reed Relay
    >
    >
    > > Are you saying that I shouldn't use these generic diodes? That I need a
    > > special diode for the reed relay protection? I don't think I phrased my
    > > previous question correctly.
    > > dave
    > > --- Rus Hardy <rushardy@m...> wrote:
    > > > david cousins wrote:
    > > >
    > > > > I recently bought a package of 20 diodes from Ratshack and I don't
    > recall
    > > > if
    > > > > they have a part number. Question: What kind of problems can occur if
    > I
    > > > use
    > > > > such a generic diode?
    > > > > Dave
    > > > > --- iceninevt@y... wrote:
    > > > >
    > > >
    > > > Generic stamp failure?? LOL!
    > > >
    > > > Seriously though if the output is not properly protected by the diode
    > you can
    > > > seriously fry your stamp.
    > > >
    > > > Rus
    > > >
    > > >
    > > > --
    > > > Rus Hardy
    > > > "Lucky Devil"
    > > > Atrophies - Ghoulishly Original Awards & Trophies
    > > > http://www.bluedestiny.com/Atrophies/
    > > > SpiderBucky & SpiderThrifty - Boney Superheroes
    > > > http://www.bluedestiny.com/SpiderBucky/
    > > > Keeper of the Bucky-n-Thrifty Flame
    > > > http://www.boneyardbargains.com/
    > > > "my mind wanders....I'm just along for the ride"
    > > >
    > > >
    > >
    > >
    > > __________________________________________________
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    > > Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
    > > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
    > >
    > >
    > >
    >
    >
    >
    >
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    >


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  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-04-16 19:49
    OK then, specifically, let's say I was using a Radio Shack 900-2389 (5V,
    500mA) which maps to a OEG brand model OMR-2-06-F relay. I can't tell
    (although it certainly can be staring me in the face) from the relay
    data sheet what the maximum reverse voltage produced from the coil could
    be. http://www.oeg.com.cn/pdf/14_OMR.pdf

    How would I go about calculating it to make sure my diode can handle it?

    Thanks,
    Kevin

    david cousins wrote:
    >
    > Are you saying that I shouldn't use these generic diodes? That I need a
    > special diode for the reed relay protection? I don't think I phrased my
    > previous question correctly.
    > dave
    > --- Rus Hardy <rushardy@m...> wrote:
    > > david cousins wrote:
    > >
    > > > I recently bought a package of 20 diodes from Ratshack and I don't recall
    > > if
    > > > they have a part number. Question: What kind of problems can occur if I
    > > use
    > > > such a generic diode?
    > > > Dave
    > > > --- iceninevt@y... wrote:
    > > >
    > >
    > > Generic stamp failure?? LOL!
    > >
    > > Seriously though if the output is not properly protected by the diode you
    can
    > > seriously fry your stamp.
    > >
    > > Rus
    > >
    > >
    > > --
    > > Rus Hardy
    > > "Lucky Devil"
    > > Atrophies - Ghoulishly Original Awards & Trophies
    > > http://www.bluedestiny.com/Atrophies/
    > > SpiderBucky & SpiderThrifty - Boney Superheroes
    > > http://www.bluedestiny.com/SpiderBucky/
    > > Keeper of the Bucky-n-Thrifty Flame
    > > http://www.boneyardbargains.com/
    > > "my mind wanders....I'm just along for the ride"
    > >
    > >
    >
    > __________________________________________________
    > Do You Yahoo!?
    > Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
    > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
    >
    >
    >
    > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-04-16 20:23
    Voltage drop across a diode is unlike that of a resistor or
    capacitor. The voltage drop across a diode (or most any) P/N junction
    is 600mV (6/10 volt). Usually, this drop is constant, the drop does
    not vary with changes in voltage.

    There are many different types of diodes. They all do basically the
    same thing, allow current flow in only one direction.

    Some diodes are used for rectification, turning AC into DC. Others
    are used for signal detection, etc.

    The ratings that should concern you are:

    PIV Peak Inverse Voltage. A diode will block current in one
    direction, to a point. If to much voltage is appled to a diode, in
    its non-conducting direction (reverse biased) the semiconductor
    junction inside the diode "breaks down". The diode dies, (it usually
    takes something with it.)

    Zener diodes break down without dying, at a specific voltage. Zeners
    are used to protect against overvoltage, and are often used to
    produce a voltage reference.

    Wattage How much power a diode can safely pass

    Some diodes are required to conduct very quickly. Switching power
    supplies use diodes that conduct very quickly to protect the output
    devices. Stepper motor drivers are usually protected by these fast
    diodes.

    More information than you need? You bet!

    Hope some of this helps.

    Good Luck
    Rich
    http://geocities.com/rbc1956



    --- In basicstamps@y..., david cousins <cuz_hsv@y...> wrote:
    > It's me again, with another version of the diode question:
    > With a resistor, we can measure resistance to voltage.
    Verification by
    > measuring voltage drop.
    > With a capacitor, we can store a large or small charge.
    Verification by
    > measuring voltage and a time delay.
    > Now how about these diodes. Keep in mind that I'm a civil
    engineer. What
    > differentiates one diode from another? Is it a measure of power?
    >
    > Thanks in advance.
    > dave
    >
    > --- iceninevt@y... wrote:
    > > The voltage spike created by the coils collapsing magnetic field
    can
    > > be many times the voltage applied to it. The 1N4007 is a good
    choice,
    > > I expect there will be a bunch of them in the RS diode bundle.
    The RS
    > > diodes do have part numbers
    > >
    > > Keep in mind that a speaker (not a piezo, a bona-fide voice coil
    type)
    > > can damage a stamp, or a transistor, with equal ease as the relay
    > > coil, for exactly the same reasons.
    > >
    > > Placing a reverse-biased diode across an inductive load should be
    > > considered an absololute necessity, every single time. There are
    > > other ways of getting the job done, ie: a RC snubber, but I
    almost
    > > always use the diode.
    > >
    > > If you really want to protect your stamp consider coupling the
    stamp
    > > output pin to the outside world using an optocoupler. They are
    not
    > > difficult to use and afford the largest degree of protection to
    the
    > > stamp.
    > >
    > > Regards
    > >
    > > Rich
    > >
    > > --- In basicstamps@y..., david cousins <cuz_hsv@y...> wrote:
    > > > I recently bought a package of 20 diodes from Ratshack and I
    don't
    > > recall if
    > > > they have a part number. Question: What kind of problems can
    occur
    > > if I use
    > > > such a generic diode?
    > > > Dave
    > > > --- iceninevt@y... wrote:
    > > > > If the relay coil does not have a snubber across it the
    > > transistor
    > > > > will die a quick, violent death. When the transistor turns
    off
    > > the
    > > > > magnetic field in the relay coil collapses. This would appear
    as
    > > a
    > > > > (possibly) large voltage spike across the transistor.
    > > > >
    > > > > Easiest thing to do:
    > > > >
    > > > > place a 1N4007 diode across the relay coil, anode towards the
    > > 2n2222
    > > > > collector.
    > > > >
    > > > > Ciao
    > > > >
    > > > > Richard
    > > > >
    > > > >
    > > > > --- In basicstamps@y..., Rodent <daweasel@s...> wrote:
    > > > > > You need to drive the relay with a transistor. A 2N2222
    works
    > > OK.
    > > > > >
    > > > > > Connect one coil terminal to +5 VDC. Connect the other coil
    > > > > terminal to the
    > > > > > collector of the 2n2222. Connect the emitter of the 2N2222
    to
    > > > > ground.
    > > > > > Connect the base of the 2N2222 to one leg of a 10k resistor
    and
    > > > > connect the
    > > > > > other leg of the resistor to the stamp pin.
    > > > > >
    > > > > >
    Original Message
    > > > > >
    > > > > > > I just purchased a 5VDC Reed Relay from radio shack
    (275-
    > > > > 232).
    > > > > > > I just want to know the best way to wire this to the
    stamp
    > > without
    > > > > > > damaging it. I am assuming I need to wire the stamp to
    the
    > > coil
    > > > > > > connections and the other wires go to the circuit I want
    to
    > > > > switch on
    > > > > > > and off. Is this correct? How should I do it safely?
    > > > > > >
    > > > > > > I just want to use the stamp to control a second
    independent
    > > > > circuit.
    > > > >
    > > > >
    > > > >
    > > > >
    > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
    > > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
    > > > >
    > > > >
    > > >
    > > >
    > > > __________________________________________________
    > > > Do You Yahoo!?
    > > > Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
    > > > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
    > >
    > >
    >
    >
    > __________________________________________________
    > Do You Yahoo!?
    > Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
    > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-04-16 20:27
    Hi Dave,

    Well there are several important diode parameters. First, the forward
    voltage drop. If the material is silicon (1N914, 1N4148, 1N4XXX...) the drop
    will be about .7V. Some meters can measure this directly with a "diode"
    position. Otherwise, put a battery, a resistor, and a diode in series and
    measure it with a voltmeter. Germanium drops about .3V. Hot carrier and
    Schottky diodes have different forward voltages too.

    The next big thing is the reverse breakdown voltage. If you put a big
    voltage backwards, the diode may emit its internal smoke :-) This is often
    rated as PIV "Peak Inverse Voltage". Diodes with very precise reverse
    breakdowns are used as zener diodes.

    The forward current capacity is another important parameter.

    In some diodes, the junction capacitance is controlled and used as a voltage
    variable capacitor. As the depletion region grows and shrinks the
    capacitance changes.

    There are many special-purpose diodes made to switch, rectify, regulate,
    etc. So the critical parameters change depending on what kind of diode you
    want and why you want it.

    The snub as discussed in the list is pretty non-critical because the reverse
    voltage has very little duration or current. Almost any diode will safely
    short it to ground.

    However, in some cases, diode selection is critical. For example, if you
    were building a crystal-type radio, you'd want to use a Germanium diode so
    you could hear weaker signals. If you were using diodes to switch an
    antenna, you'd want fast switching diodes with controlled capacitance.

    One size doesn't fit all :-)

    BTW, if the Radio Shack bag 'o diodes are clear glass passivated (a clear
    see through case) they are probably Germanium (1N34A? diodes). Not great for
    logic use. Would probably work for the snub, but not my first choice.

    If they are small glass with a reddish body, they are probably 1N914 or
    1N4148 which would be OK. These are about the size of an 1/8W resistor. The
    1N34's are about half between 1/4 and 1/2W size. The '914/'4148 is the
    classic "logic" diode. Fast switching.

    If they are black they are probably 1N4XXX but these are usually marked, at
    least with the last digits (4001 for example). These are OK too. Usually
    used in power supplies.

    This is all from memory. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

    Regards,

    Al Williams
    AWC
    *Floating point A/D: http://www.al-williams.com/awce/pak9.htm


    >
    Original Message
    > From: david cousins [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=S46Lku8lTS363Z2JE72Awvoojtt0JP1EfI4PWnZpXoCGvKwZdDLR92CyjPRXqHHPdD9tILFg6A]cuz_hsv@y...[/url
    > Sent: Monday, April 16, 2001 1:39 PM
    > To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
    > Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: 5VDC Reed Relay
    >
    >
    > It's me again, with another version of the diode question:
    > With a resistor, we can measure resistance to voltage. Verification by
    > measuring voltage drop.
    > With a capacitor, we can store a large or small charge. Verification by
    > measuring voltage and a time delay.
    > Now how about these diodes. Keep in mind that I'm a civil engineer. What
    > differentiates one diode from another? Is it a measure of power?
    >
    > Thanks in advance.
    > dave
    >
    > --- iceninevt@y... wrote:
    > > The voltage spike created by the coils collapsing magnetic field can
    > > be many times the voltage applied to it. The 1N4007 is a good choice,
    > > I expect there will be a bunch of them in the RS diode bundle. The RS
    > > diodes do have part numbers
    > >
    > > Keep in mind that a speaker (not a piezo, a bona-fide voice coil type)
    > > can damage a stamp, or a transistor, with equal ease as the relay
    > > coil, for exactly the same reasons.
    > >
    > > Placing a reverse-biased diode across an inductive load should be
    > > considered an absololute necessity, every single time. There are
    > > other ways of getting the job done, ie: a RC snubber, but I almost
    > > always use the diode.
    > >
    > > If you really want to protect your stamp consider coupling the stamp
    > > output pin to the outside world using an optocoupler. They are not
    > > difficult to use and afford the largest degree of protection to the
    > > stamp.
    > >
    > > Regards
    > >
    > > Rich
    > >
    > > --- In basicstamps@y..., david cousins <cuz_hsv@y...> wrote:
    > > > I recently bought a package of 20 diodes from Ratshack and I don't
    > > recall if
    > > > they have a part number. Question: What kind of problems can occur
    > > if I use
    > > > such a generic diode?
    > > > Dave
    > > > --- iceninevt@y... wrote:
    > > > > If the relay coil does not have a snubber across it the
    > > transistor
    > > > > will die a quick, violent death. When the transistor turns off
    > > the
    > > > > magnetic field in the relay coil collapses. This would appear as
    > > a
    > > > > (possibly) large voltage spike across the transistor.
    > > > >
    > > > > Easiest thing to do:
    > > > >
    > > > > place a 1N4007 diode across the relay coil, anode towards the
    > > 2n2222
    > > > > collector.
    > > > >
    > > > > Ciao
    > > > >
    > > > > Richard
    > > > >
    > > > >
    > > > > --- In basicstamps@y..., Rodent <daweasel@s...> wrote:
    > > > > > You need to drive the relay with a transistor. A 2N2222 works
    > > OK.
    > > > > >
    > > > > > Connect one coil terminal to +5 VDC. Connect the other coil
    > > > > terminal to the
    > > > > > collector of the 2n2222. Connect the emitter of the 2N2222 to
    > > > > ground.
    > > > > > Connect the base of the 2N2222 to one leg of a 10k resistor and
    > > > > connect the
    > > > > > other leg of the resistor to the stamp pin.
    > > > > >
    > > > > >
    Original Message
    > > > > >
    > > > > > > I just purchased a 5VDC Reed Relay from radio shack (275-
    > > > > 232).
    > > > > > > I just want to know the best way to wire this to the stamp
    > > without
    > > > > > > damaging it. I am assuming I need to wire the stamp to the
    > > coil
    > > > > > > connections and the other wires go to the circuit I want to
    > > > > switch on
    > > > > > > and off. Is this correct? How should I do it safely?
    > > > > > >
    > > > > > > I just want to use the stamp to control a second independent
    > > > > circuit.
    > > > >
    > > > >
    > > > >
    > > > >
    > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
    > > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
    > > > >
    > > > >
    > > >
    > > >
    > > > __________________________________________________
    > > > Do You Yahoo!?
    > > > Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
    > > > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
    >
    >


    __________________________________________________
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    Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
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    Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-04-16 21:11
    Do the diodes have any markings? If so, you can look up the specs. The only
    problem I foresee is getting a zener diode rather than a normal one. If the
    zener is rated below 5 volts, it might conduct when you power the circuit
    up.

    Original Message


    > I recently bought a package of 20 diodes from Ratshack and I don't recall
    if
    > they have a part number. Question: What kind of problems can occur if I
    use
    > such a generic diode?
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-04-16 21:17
    *Usually* the glass ones are 1N914's -- a low-current general-purpose diode.
    Should work fine for a *small* relay like a reed relay or one of the DIP
    relays. Yes, the banded end goes toward +5 VDC.

    Original Message

    > I bought the same pack of diodes I think, small 2mm glass encapsulated
    > kind? I've used them with 5vdc relays in 2 different projects, one is
    > nearing 2 years run time without a problem. I've always put the black
    band
    > toward the +5v (if I remember correctly)

    > > Are you saying that I shouldn't use these generic diodes? That I need a
    > > special diode for the reed relay protection? I don't think I phrased my
    > > previous question correctly.
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-04-16 21:21
    Standard diodes are rated by the amount of current they will pass and the
    amount of voltage they will block in the reverse direction. The 1N4007
    referred to previously is rated for one amp with a peak inverse voltage of
    1000 volts.

    If you want the specs, go to:

    http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/1N/1N4007.pdf

    Original Message

    > It's me again, with another version of the diode question:
    > With a resistor, we can measure resistance to voltage. Verification by
    > measuring voltage drop.
    > With a capacitor, we can store a large or small charge. Verification by
    > measuring voltage and a time delay.
    > Now how about these diodes. Keep in mind that I'm a civil engineer. What
    > differentiates one diode from another? Is it a measure of power?
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-04-16 23:11
    Dave:
    The diode only "works" when the relay is turned off, and then usually only
    for a few hundred millisecs. What ratings does the diode need? When the
    relay is on, the diode sees the coil voltage as a reverse stress, so a 12
    volt relay would need a diode rated greater than 12 volts PIV, (peak inverse
    voltage). When the relay is turned off, the diode will momentarily carry
    whatever the relay coil current was. If it is a 500 ma coil, the diode
    should be rated for 500 ma, (or more), forward current, (If).

    Summary:
    If >= coil current
    PIV >= coil voltage.

    The high voltages mentioned in this thread only occur without a diode. If
    you use the generic diodes, and they are not rated for the coil current, the
    diode will pop, you lose your protection, then the transistor dies. A
    simple test, if you want to use the cheap diodes, is to connect the diode
    across the power supply, band to positive. If it doesn't pop, it has a high
    enough PIV. Now connect the diode in series with the relay and apply the
    normal relay voltage + 0.7 volts. If the diode doesn't pop, it has an
    adequate If.

    Hope this helps,
    Ray McArthur

    > I recently bought a package of 20 diodes from Ratshack and I don't recall
    if
    > they have a part number. Question: What kind of problems can occur if I
    use
    > such a generic diode?
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-04-17 15:37
    As many of you said, my diodes do have part numbers on them, and I did save the
    tag in the bottom of my parts bin. They are indeed the 1N914's.
    Thanks to everyone for their inputs and teaching. Your responses have
    provided me with numerous little learning tasks to cement these studies.

    I also searched on the optoisolators and started learning about them. Of
    course I immediately have questions. Hoping that I haven't already worn out my
    welcome, I will ask it.

    Does the optoisolator have an internal LED and Phototransisoter inside the
    chip?
    The switching is done with only light? Since no electricity is passed between
    the circuits, they are isolated? If so, very cool.
    Thanks again.
    Dave

    --- Rodent <daweasel@s...> wrote:
    > *Usually* the glass ones are 1N914's -- a low-current general-purpose diode.
    > Should work fine for a *small* relay like a reed relay or one of the DIP
    > relays. Yes, the banded end goes toward +5 VDC.
    >
    >
    Original Message
    >
    > > I bought the same pack of diodes I think, small 2mm glass encapsulated
    > > kind? I've used them with 5vdc relays in 2 different projects, one is
    > > nearing 2 years run time without a problem. I've always put the black
    > band
    > > toward the +5v (if I remember correctly)
    >
    > > > Are you saying that I shouldn't use these generic diodes? That I need a
    > > > special diode for the reed relay protection? I don't think I phrased my
    > > > previous question correctly.
    >
    >

    __________________________________________________
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    Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
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  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-04-17 17:09
    Yup. There is no electrical connection between the input and output on the
    opto-isolator. These are typically used to isolate a low-voltage circuit
    from a high-voltage circuit. We used them to drive 110 VAC relays with
    logic-level signals.

    You'll still probably have to use a transistor to drive the relay -- most
    opto-isolators are very low current.

    Original Message


    > As many of you said, my diodes do have part numbers on them, and I did
    save the
    > tag in the bottom of my parts bin. They are indeed the 1N914's.
    > Thanks to everyone for their inputs and teaching. Your responses have
    > provided me with numerous little learning tasks to cement these studies.
    >
    > I also searched on the optoisolators and started learning about them. Of
    > course I immediately have questions. Hoping that I haven't already worn
    out my
    > welcome, I will ask it.
    >
    > Does the optoisolator have an internal LED and Phototransisoter inside the
    > chip?
    > The switching is done with only light? Since no electricity is passed
    between
    > the circuits, they are isolated? If so, very cool.
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-04-17 17:32
    Yep

    The switching is done only with light. Inside the optoisolator
    (photocoupler) is a LED and either a photodiode or phototransistor.

    Opto's come in a ton of flavors...

    Some are used as triac drivers. What this means is that your stamp
    could switch an AC load (like your coffee maker or lights) with just
    a small handful of parts, and without using a relay. Sometimes the
    relay is a good choice, but is is a mechanical device, it is slow,
    noisy, and being a mechanical device has a much shorter life than a
    solid state switch (like a triac)

    Opto's do many, many other things.

    if these things interest you I would recommend you get a trial copy
    of Nuts and Volts magazine (www.nutsvolts.com) and consider
    subscribing.

    I am a new "stamper", I got my BS2 three weeks ago. I have found NV
    to be very stamp-friendly. A good source for electronics info, and
    for stamp hints. I am 44 years old and my electronics education
    stopped about 20 years ago, until three weeks ago, when I got my BS2.

    It is never to late to learn. Good Luck

    Regards

    Rich
    http://geocities.com/rbc1956

    --- In basicstamps@y..., david cousins <cuz_hsv@y...> wrote:
    > As many of you said, my diodes do have part numbers on them, and I
    did save the
    > tag in the bottom of my parts bin. They are indeed the 1N914's.
    > Thanks to everyone for their inputs and teaching. Your responses
    have
    > provided me with numerous little learning tasks to cement these
    studies.
    >
    > I also searched on the optoisolators and started learning about
    them. Of
    > course I immediately have questions. Hoping that I haven't already
    worn out my
    > welcome, I will ask it.
    >
    > Does the optoisolator have an internal LED and Phototransisoter
    inside the
    > chip?
    > The switching is done with only light? Since no electricity is
    passed between
    > the circuits, they are isolated? If so, very cool.
    > Thanks again.
    > Dave
    >
    > --- Rodent <daweasel@s...> wrote:
    > > *Usually* the glass ones are 1N914's -- a low-current general-
    purpose diode.
    > > Should work fine for a *small* relay like a reed relay or one of
    the DIP
    > > relays. Yes, the banded end goes toward +5 VDC.
    > >
    > >
    Original Message
    > >
    > > > I bought the same pack of diodes I think, small 2mm glass
    encapsulated
    > > > kind? I've used them with 5vdc relays in 2 different projects,
    one is
    > > > nearing 2 years run time without a problem. I've always put
    the black
    > > band
    > > > toward the +5v (if I remember correctly)
    > >
    > > > > Are you saying that I shouldn't use these generic diodes?
    That I need a
    > > > > special diode for the reed relay protection? I don't think I
    phrased my
    > > > > previous question correctly.
    > >
    > >
    >
    > __________________________________________________
    > Do You Yahoo!?
    > Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
    > http://auctions.yahoo.com/
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-04-17 21:11
    Personally I like optos, I've used them alot in robot applications.
    They really do protect a lot of sensitive electronics from high current
    lines going to a motor. They also cut out any knid of noise that
    motors will generate. Plus optical anything gives it a very high tech
    ambience.
    -Ryan
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-04-17 21:40
    I'm hearing alot about opto-isolators. Can anyone recommend a few part
    numbers that work well with stamps? I'm looking for smaller footprint
    types, I've seen them in an 6 or 8 pin dip before. I'd be interested in
    ones that could do 12vdc at around 1A, and ones that do 120vac at 1A.

    Also simplicity of design is good too. If I don't need a farm of external
    components, I'd love to start using them. Just never had any good leads on
    ones that would match up well with stamps.

    Robert Staph, W3RCS
    The Center for Advanced Technologies
    Computer Networking Consultant (CNC-DPT)


    Original Message
    From: <theryan@t...>
    To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
    Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2001 4:11 PM
    Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: 5VDC Reed Relay


    > Personally I like optos, I've used them alot in robot applications.
    > They really do protect a lot of sensitive electronics from high current
    > lines going to a motor. They also cut out any knid of noise that
    > motors will generate. Plus optical anything gives it a very high tech
    > ambience.
    > -Ryan
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
    >
    >
    >
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