Circuit board transfer film
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Posts: 46,084
Has anyone had good success with "press-n-peel" transfer film when making
2-sided board proto's?
Aside from registration issues, I'm finding it difficult to heat both sides
evenly.
If anyone has any related experience to share on this, I would greatly
appreciate it - I'm burning sheets at $2 per in the meanwhile....
(p.s.- I thought this would be a quick way to check out how well my
decoupling works on a board layout, vs. the results on the breadboard.)
Chris
2-sided board proto's?
Aside from registration issues, I'm finding it difficult to heat both sides
evenly.
If anyone has any related experience to share on this, I would greatly
appreciate it - I'm burning sheets at $2 per in the meanwhile....
(p.s.- I thought this would be a quick way to check out how well my
decoupling works on a board layout, vs. the results on the breadboard.)
Chris
Comments
been able to do is to do one side only. Then drill a registration hole in
two corners of the board. This gives you a way to line up the second side.
However, it is hard to get the registration that you really need and you can
expect to ruin a few boards.
Al Williams
AWC
* NEW: PAK-IX floating point A/D: http://www.al-williams.com/awce/pak9.htm
>
Original Message
> From: Chris Loiacono [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=4vDPM5sWF6l_dFFxlF0JIl3dZHsiPbH4ID6tooouwK8Stexf-5QFsPWiktLZxdZxo6EHl3P1nsmEoxUQh9pP3cUGhOqBNy4B]chris@a...[/urlOn Behalf Of
> Chris Loiacono (E-mail)
> Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2001 9:32 AM
> To: Basicstamps Egroup (E-mail)
> Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Circuit board transfer film
>
>
> Has anyone had good success with "press-n-peel" transfer film when making
> 2-sided board proto's?
> Aside from registration issues, I'm finding it difficult to heat
> both sides
> evenly.
> If anyone has any related experience to share on this, I would greatly
> appreciate it - I'm burning sheets at $2 per in the meanwhile....
>
> (p.s.- I thought this would be a quick way to check out how well my
> decoupling works on a board layout, vs. the results on the breadboard.)
>
> Chris
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
It seems that overheating the stuff causes it to become too wet, allowing
the art to smear, while not heating it sufficiently doesn't permit it to
adhere well. Have you ever found any other ill effects of overheating the
film?
There must be a technique that works reliably. I infer this from the name of
one of the 'press - n - peel' distributors in the U.K. "Press - N - Peel
circuit etching service" which indicates that they must do this sort of
thing regularly...
In retrospect, I doesn't seem as if this stuff has saved me either time or
$.
Chris
>
Original Message
> From: Al Williams [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=9RqWaKrSiZRfKm-K8XiX0pMv4Vy4JoY_x5o6_yrxshlZiqKhk8-EDtP9adWuzYO7710zgILiRPxl]alw@a...[/url
> Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2001 10:44 AM
> To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Circuit board transfer film
>
>
> I have not been very successful doing 2 sides this way
> either. The best I've
> been able to do is to do one side only. Then drill a
> registration hole in
> two corners of the board. This gives you a way to line up the
> second side.
> However, it is hard to get the registration that you really
> need and you can
> expect to ruin a few boards.
>
> Al Williams
> AWC
> * NEW: PAK-IX floating point A/D:
> http://www.al-williams.com/awce/pak9.htm
>
>
> >
Original Message
> > From: Chris Loiacono
> [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=99B84-e17Y5pB0tqWbzfjBqMOVuhOnvnnw73me90pArBYM-EzAKNh1dbZj6aEK8788NuS8fCQw3yNlndLzIxtejDFRYYGQ]chris@a...[/urlOn Behalf Of
> > Chris Loiacono (E-mail)
> > Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2001 9:32 AM
> > To: Basicstamps Egroup (E-mail)
> > Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Circuit board transfer film
> >
> >
> > Has anyone had good success with "press-n-peel" transfer
> film when making
> > 2-sided board proto's?
> > Aside from registration issues, I'm finding it difficult to heat
> > both sides
> > evenly.
> > If anyone has any related experience to share on this, I
> would greatly
> > appreciate it - I'm burning sheets at $2 per in the meanwhile....
> >
> > (p.s.- I thought this would be a quick way to check out how well my
> > decoupling works on a board layout, vs. the results on the
> breadboard.)
> >
> > Chris
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>Has anyone had good success with "press-n-peel" transfer film when making
>2-sided board proto's?
>Aside from registration issues, I'm finding it difficult to heat both sides
>evenly.
>If anyone has any related experience to share on this, I would greatly
>appreciate it - I'm burning sheets at $2 per in the meanwhile....
The following is something I posted to the PICLIST a couple of weeks ago -
my apologies in advance for those who have already read it.
It pertains to using negatives but should work similarly for transfer film.
copy starts:
I (we) make a lot of proto boards here at our shop. I worked out a
technique for registering the negatives when making double sided board that
has worked very well over the past 20 years or so.
Its so simple that I feel embarrassed to mention it, except that it
works! Just take a scrap of the exact same PCB material that you are
exposing (with copper surfaces). Cut it into an "L" shape, with 1 leg at
least 2" long and the other leg at least 3 or 4 inches long. Take your
time when cutting the inside corner: make it nice and square, with smooth
edges. We make ours about 3" x 4", with 1" wide legs. Think of a
carpenters square.
Cut the board that you want to expose about 1/2" larger than you
need. This leaves a border of about 1/4" of waste material you will have
to cut off when the board has been etched. Its a PITA but you need the space.
The board you are going to expose sits in the inside corner of the
jig. Since this little jig is made of the same material as the board, it
is the same thickness. That is important.
Attach one of the transparencies to the jig. Position it so that the
actual image is about 1/4" away from both arms of the jig. Tape it to both
arms of the jig using thin Scotch Tape.
Flip the jig over and position the other transparency on the jig. Line up
the holes in the center of the pads. Tape only to the long side of the
jig. You want the transparency to 'hinge' on the tape. Take your time
aligning the transparencies - this is what determines how well the pads
will line up on the finished board.
Thats it! To use, just tuck the sensitized board into the corner of the
jig. Place into your expose frame (we use 2 pieces of glass and a vacuum
pump) and expose. Turn over and expose the other side. Develop and etch.
This might also work with toner transfer paper but I haven't tried it. But
I suspect it would work just fine.
For what its worth, we use Riston 4315 film and a modified Ibico laminator
to sensitize our boards. We develop using Sodium Carbonate (soda ash),
etch with Ammonium Persulfate and strip the resist off with Sodium
Hydroxide (Caustic Soda). The expose lamp is a 175 Watt Mercury Vapour
lamp with the outer envelope removed. Its in a metal box with a motorized
shutter controlled with a timer. We don't allow anyone to remain in the
PCB room when the shutter is open.
We've made thousands of boards over the years with extremely good
results. But drilling all those holes is still a pain.
dwayne
PS: We asked our local University to come up with an inexpensive technique
for safely disposing of spent Ammonium Persulfate etchant. They succeeded
in doing so. Check with the Chemistry department at the University of
Alberta. I'd be happy to pass on the technique but I'd prefer you get it
from the experts. Plus - they deserve the attention and the credit.
dwayne
Dwayne Reid <dwayner@p...>
Trinity Electronics Systems Ltd Edmonton, AB, CANADA
(780) 489-3199 voice (780) 487-6397 fax
Celebrating 17 years of Engineering Innovation (1984 - 2001)
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Do NOT send unsolicited commercial email to this email address.
This message neither grants consent to receive unsolicited
commercial email nor is intended to solicit commercial email.
circuit board to align everything? The other thing would be to precisely cut
the board and put corner marks on the transfer.
Original Message
> Has anyone had good success with "press-n-peel" transfer film when making
> 2-sided board proto's?
> Aside from registration issues, I'm finding it difficult to heat both
sides
> evenly.
> If anyone has any related experience to share on this, I would greatly
> appreciate it - I'm burning sheets at $2 per in the meanwhile....
>
> (p.s.- I thought this would be a quick way to check out how well my
> decoupling works on a board layout, vs. the results on the breadboard.)
What I have done in the past for double sided boards, is to...
1) ...create my alignment holes within the PCB artwork.
2) Print the artwork on the PNP Blue (Press-n-Peel Blue)
3) Hold the PNP Blue up to a light source to align them visually and
tape an edge of them together. (Allow at least a 1 inch margin)
4) Insert a PREPPED board in-between the PNP Blue "sandwich" created
in step 3.
5) Tape perpendicular edges of the PNP Blue "sandwich" to each side
of the inserted board.
6) Use an old cloth or towel for the backside of the board and iron
one side at a time with a circular motion. Flip the board and
repeat this step for the other side.
Note: - A "PREPPED" board has been polished with extra FINE steel wool
(The kind that will ignite with a 9V battery), and washed with
water and allowed to dry completely.
- The board should then be pre-heated before equipping it with
the PNP Blue artwork by placing the board in the oven to
match the temperature of your iron. By the time you attach the
artwork on the PNP Blue to the board, the board should still be
plenty warm, and help provide a more evenly distributed heat
source when applying the iron.
- WORK smart!, use caution, and have patience!
>Why not put some pins in a piece of wood and put holes in the transfer and
>circuit board to align everything? The other thing would be to precisely cut
>the board and put corner marks on the transfer.
>
>
Original Message
>
> > Has anyone had good success with "press-n-peel" transfer film when making
> > 2-sided board proto's?
> > Aside from registration issues, I'm finding it difficult to heat both
>sides
> > evenly.
> > If anyone has any related experience to share on this, I would greatly
> > appreciate it - I'm burning sheets at $2 per in the meanwhile....
> >
> > (p.s.- I thought this would be a quick way to check out how well my
> > decoupling works on a board layout, vs. the results on the breadboard.)
Beau Schwabe IC Mask Designer
National Semiconductor Network Products Division
500 Pinnacle Court, Suite 525 Mail Stop GA1 Norcross, GA 30071
> From: "Chris Loiacono (E-mail)" <chris01@t...>
>
> Has anyone had good success with "press-n-peel" transfer film when making
> 2-sided board proto's?
Forget transfer film!.
Plain paper works just as well
if you soak it off.
See my homebrew pcb tricks at
http://www.infiltec.com/seismo/pcb-home.htm
Ciao,
Dave
The Inexpensive Seismometer Project
http://www.infiltec.com/seismo/
Jason
David Saum wrote:
>
> > Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 10:32:04 -0400
> > From: "Chris Loiacono (E-mail)" <chris01@t...>
> >
> > Has anyone had good success with "press-n-peel" transfer film when making
> > 2-sided board proto's?
>
> Forget transfer film!.
> Plain paper works just as well
> if you soak it off.
>
> See my homebrew pcb tricks at
> http://www.infiltec.com/seismo/pcb-home.htm
>
> Ciao,
>
> Dave
> The Inexpensive Seismometer Project
> http://www.infiltec.com/seismo/
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
_______________________________________________
Jason Lavoie
jlavoie@e...
jlavoie@o...
ICQ#:10604243
Electrical Engineering III, Carleton University
one we've used before is to make TWO boards of half the thickness you
want (pretty flimsy stuff, but you can cut it with scissors [noparse]:)[/noparse] and then
take the etched board and drill a few holes. put them back to back and
solder wires through a few holes, and voila, you have a perfectly lined
up board [noparse]:)[/noparse]
you don't even need to cut anything straight.
Beau Schwabe wrote:
>
> At 11:38 AM 4/11/01 -0500, you wrote:
>
> What I have done in the past for double sided boards, is to...
--
_______________________________________________
Jason Lavoie
jlavoie@e...
jlavoie@o...
ICQ#:10604243
Electrical Engineering III, Carleton University
and I have several methods to try on my next proto board. Thanks for sharing
the great ideas.
BTW, I etched the board I was working on earlier, and although the
registration is off a bit, it'll work just fine (I think). My method was to
cut everything to size, and since I included targets in my board files, I
attached one printed film piece to the board, and transferred the target
(registration) marks to the copper. Then I drilled two #60 holes at those
points and 'pinned' the film for both sides thru the holes. I 'ironed' each
side partially then removed the pins so I could apply the heat completely to
both sides. I think Beau's method could be adapted, as well as using paper
and simple fixture next time.
Thanks again.
Chris
>
Original Message
> From: Chris Loiacono [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=nAGLq4zv6YgkFLh8S0-1c1ywirb_DeSKIAPaO7jmXmInfUxS5gT2qUEe34f9qEK67MICgTDc9HcOqok3jhnpCmyAK9lSkiSZ]chris@a...[/urlOn
> Behalf Of
> Chris Loiacono (E-mail)
> Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2001 10:32 AM
> To: Basicstamps Egroup (E-mail)
> Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Circuit board transfer film
>
>
> Has anyone had good success with "press-n-peel" transfer film
> when making
> 2-sided board proto's?
> Aside from registration issues, I'm finding it difficult to
> heat both sides
> evenly.
> If anyone has any related experience to share on this, I would greatly
> appreciate it - I'm burning sheets at $2 per in the meanwhile....
>
> (p.s.- I thought this would be a quick way to check out how well my
> decoupling works on a board layout, vs. the results on the
> breadboard.)
>
> Chris
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
board, but I've enjoyed reading this thread a bunch.
Dave
--- Chris Loiacono <chris@a...> wrote:
> This really is a great group. I will probably never buy transfer film again,
> and I have several methods to try on my next proto board. Thanks for sharing
> the great ideas.
>
> Thanks again.
> Chris
>
>
__________________________________________________
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I just need a basic understading of the process.
Is this the process?
1) Print copy of the layout on transparencies.
2) Clean the board
3) Press the transpareny onto the board.
4) Etch.
Is this correct?
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.
companies that make transfer paper - Dynaart - has a system for double sided
boards that I've used with success. It uses a 'plated through hole'
workaround involving some very tiny copper rivets. You line up both sides
of the artwork using a light, taping the two sheets together. Lay the
sheets on the PCB and drill four holes to use as alignment references -
drilling through both paper and board at one time. Separate the sheets,
prep the board, then RIVET the sheets of transfer paper onto the board.
Then fuse the toner onto the board using your iron (I use a modified
laminator sold by Dynaart), soak off the paper and etch. It isn't great, but
it works. The rivets also make construction of the boards much easier.
===========================================
Larry Strizich, PE
Associate Professor, Electronics Engineering Technology
Montana State University - Northern
http://eet.msun.edu/strizich
w (406)265-3724/fax (406)265-3734
strizich@m...
===========================================
> workaround involving some very tiny copper rivets.
I always assumed that's how they make plated through holes. Is there a way
to make them without rivets?
Paul
first. Then they plate copper on the board, which also fills the holes. For
home use, you usually use the rivet method, or for vias just solder a wire
to both sides.
Al Williams
AWC
*NEW: PAK-IX Floating point A/D: http://www.al-williams.com/awce/pak9.htm
>
Original Message
> From: Paul Verhage [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=aEj7Vwoh8Fq7MMUfm7bYiimdO0bYRRPcozTKUpR8v54LOcKB9YwAHrHcjtmoH5FOkgzRNZXtuU5OmTOlvoF2JD_u]pverhage@s...[/url
> Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2001 2:02 PM
> To: 'basicstamps@yahoogroups.com'
> Subject: RE: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] RE: Circuit board transfer film
>
>
> > It uses a 'plated through hole'
> > workaround involving some very tiny copper rivets.
>
> I always assumed that's how they make plated through holes. Is
> there a way
> to make them without rivets?
>
> Paul
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>A real board house starts with a blank board (no copper) and drill the holes
>first. Then they plate copper on the board, which also fills the holes.
I'm not sure the above is correct.
The process I have seen is to start with copper clad board, drill and
desmear all the holes, clean the board, laminate photosensitive film onto
the board, expose and develop the board so that only the traces and vias
are exposed (resist covers the remaining copper), dip in a tank with an
'activator' to coat the inside of all the holes with the initial conductive
surface that the plating will adhere to, electroplate copper onto the board
(which also plates the inside of the holes), electroplate tin and lead onto
the board (this becomes the final etch resist), strip the resist from the
board, etch, dip the board into hot oil to reflow the tin/lead into solder,
drill any holes that did not require plating, route to size.
My board house (S&P Flex Circuits, Nepean, Ont., Canada) tells me that they
start with 1/2 oz copper board and plate until the insides of the holes are
at 1 oz thickness - this means that the traces on the board are actually at
1.5 oz thickness. So long as all the current carrying holes and vias are
completely filled with solder, I can consider that board to in fact be 1.5
oz.
dwayne
Dwayne Reid <dwayner@p...>
Trinity Electronics Systems Ltd Edmonton, AB, CANADA
(780) 489-3199 voice (780) 487-6397 fax
Celebrating 17 years of Engineering Innovation (1984 - 2001)
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Do NOT send unsolicited commercial email to this email address.
This message neither grants consent to receive unsolicited
commercial email nor is intended to solicit commercial email.
A good resource for this sort of thing is at
http://www.thinktink.com/stack/volumes/volvi/pcbproto.htm
Interesting history: http://www.pcbuk.com/pcb-history.asp
(PCBs in 1900?)
Here is a Korean firm that uses the drill/plate method:
http://www.jhpcb.co.kr/business_e.html
Eyelets:
http://www.intl-eyelets.com/short_course_on_electronic_eyelets.htm
Some aerospace apps use aluminum sputtered into the holes, but that has its
own set of problems.
Regards,
Al Williams
AWC
*Expand your Stamp I/O: http://www.al-williams.com/awce/pak3.htm
>
Original Message
> From: Dwayne Reid [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=tdtNg1_NJVZhtB-41p_bA1W5ckDF4aXpVfWDi6PKLeYtbORcK3ZFiaVSOzM05GRfsdFbpiT8iqWaFSBIYDExfQ]dwayner@p...[/url
> Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2001 8:22 PM
> To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] RE: Circuit board transfer film
>
>
> At 02:06 PM 4/12/01 -0500, Al Williams wrote:
> >A real board house starts with a blank board (no copper) and
> drill the holes
> >first. Then they plate copper on the board, which also fills the holes.
>
> I'm not sure the above is correct.
>
> The process I have seen is to start with copper clad board, drill and
> desmear all the holes, clean the board, laminate photosensitive film onto
> the board, expose and develop the board so that only the traces and vias
> are exposed (resist covers the remaining copper), dip in a tank with an
> 'activator' to coat the inside of all the holes with the initial
> conductive
> surface that the plating will adhere to, electroplate copper onto
> the board
> (which also plates the inside of the holes), electroplate tin and
> lead onto
> the board (this becomes the final etch resist), strip the resist from the
> board, etch, dip the board into hot oil to reflow the tin/lead
> into solder,
> drill any holes that did not require plating, route to size.
>
> My board house (S&P Flex Circuits, Nepean, Ont., Canada) tells me
> that they
> start with 1/2 oz copper board and plate until the insides of the
> holes are
> at 1 oz thickness - this means that the traces on the board are
> actually at
> 1.5 oz thickness. So long as all the current carrying holes and vias are
> completely filled with solder, I can consider that board to in
> fact be 1.5
> oz.
>
> dwayne
>
>
>
> Dwayne Reid <dwayner@p...>
> Trinity Electronics Systems Ltd Edmonton, AB, CANADA
> (780) 489-3199 voice (780) 487-6397 fax
>
> Celebrating 17 years of Engineering Innovation (1984 - 2001)
>
> * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
> Do NOT send unsolicited commercial email to this email address.
> This message neither grants consent to receive unsolicited
> commercial email nor is intended to solicit commercial email.
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
Also, there was once a product for board repair that allowed you to insert
small, flangeless 'barrels' into the thru-holes or vias, and I seem to
recall both an adhesive and a spot plating that made it look as good as a
new pro board. We even used these on mil grade multi-wire boards that
subsequently would pass gov't inspections.
Chris
>
Original Message
> From: Dwayne Reid [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=1CCE4igwY3kL3nlcjPH5Gt1oJ46zcXe3EEcvhplPnH3lJerT_EVYr7U1m2qgOItUOqhQvW3y0zV1y3cn]dwayner@p...[/url
> Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2001 9:22 PM
> To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] RE: Circuit board transfer film
>
>
> At 02:06 PM 4/12/01 -0500, Al Williams wrote:
> >A real board house starts with a blank board (no copper) and
> drill the holes
> >first. Then they plate copper on the board, which also fills
> the holes.
>
> I'm not sure the above is correct.
>
> The process I have seen is to start with copper clad board, drill and
> desmear all the holes, clean the board, laminate
> photosensitive film onto
> the board, expose and develop the board so that only the
> traces and vias
> are exposed (resist covers the remaining copper), dip in a
> tank with an
> 'activator' to coat the inside of all the holes with the
> initial conductive
> surface that the plating will adhere to, electroplate copper
> onto the board
> (which also plates the inside of the holes), electroplate tin
> and lead onto
> the board (this becomes the final etch resist), strip the
> resist from the
> board, etch, dip the board into hot oil to reflow the
> tin/lead into solder,
> drill any holes that did not require plating, route to size.
>
> My board house (S&P Flex Circuits, Nepean, Ont., Canada)
> tells me that they
> start with 1/2 oz copper board and plate until the insides of
> the holes are
> at 1 oz thickness - this means that the traces on the board
> are actually at
> 1.5 oz thickness. So long as all the current carrying holes
> and vias are
> completely filled with solder, I can consider that board to
> in fact be 1.5
> oz.
>
> dwayne
>
>
>
> Dwayne Reid <dwayner@p...>
> Trinity Electronics Systems Ltd Edmonton, AB, CANADA
> (780) 489-3199 voice (780) 487-6397 fax
>
> Celebrating 17 years of Engineering Innovation (1984 - 2001)
>
> * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
> Do NOT send unsolicited commercial email to this email address.
> This message neither grants consent to receive unsolicited
> commercial email nor is intended to solicit commercial email.
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
before giving up and outsourcing.
The lesson: Outsource, it's cheap. You can make a couple small boards for
$50-$75.
On Wed, 11 Apr 2001, Chris Loiacono (E-mail) wrote:
> Has anyone had good success with "press-n-peel" transfer film when making
> 2-sided board proto's?
> Aside from registration issues, I'm finding it difficult to heat both sides
> evenly.
> If anyone has any related experience to share on this, I would greatly
> appreciate it - I'm burning sheets at $2 per in the meanwhile....
>
> (p.s.- I thought this would be a quick way to check out how well my
> decoupling works on a board layout, vs. the results on the breadboard.)
>
> Chris
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Sean T. Lamont, CTO / Chief NetNerd, Abstract Software, Inc. (ServNet)
Seattle - Bellingham - Vancouver - Portland - Everett - Tacoma - Bremerton
email: lamont@a... WWW: http://www.serv.net
"...There's no moral, it's just a lot of stuff that happens". - H. Simpson
I've used label backing paper, but lately I've favored transparencies. They
take more heat and don't get as dark, but they are very stable so if you
don't get it right you can usually just let go of the paper and do it again.
The traditional method is to use photo sensitive boards, but that's another
story.
Regards,
Al Williams
AWC
* Control 8 servos at once: http://www.al-williams.com/awce/pak8.htm
>
Original Message
> From: fernando hood [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=YVCfqn8GkDJKHWXDekYuNYZdl_W0_I-r5YC65OCDyCSPlzqKQg93ii4SYdJegCXlf0DfY-AUIJ2o]hoodey@h...[/url
> Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2001 4:21 PM
> To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Circuit board transfer film
>
>
>
> I came in a bit late on the pcb manufacturing.
>
> I just need a basic understading of the process.
>
> Is this the process?
>
> 1) Print copy of the layout on transparencies.
>
> 2) Clean the board
>
> 3) Press the transpareny onto the board.
>
> 4) Etch.
>
> Is this correct?
> _________________________________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
transparencies. I then use an clothes iron to transfer the pattern to
the board. A lot cheaper and when soaked in water, readily leaves the
film on the copper. Just a little agitation and the paper just rolls
off. The iron must raise the temperature of the ink up to the point it
was when it was transferred to the paper in the printing process.
HOT!! Works great! Cheap and will do lines down to 0.010 easily.
Regards,
Leroy
fernando hood wrote:
>
> I came in a bit late on the pcb manufacturing.
>
> I just need a basic understading of the process.
>
> Is this the process?
>
> 1) Print copy of the layout on transparencies.
>
> 2) Clean the board
>
> 3) Press the transpareny onto the board.
>
> 4) Etch.
>
> Is this correct?
> _________________________________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
*******************************************************
* LeRoy Hall, Senior N8VRC, CET *
* Phase converters 2hp to 25hp for sale guaranteed *
* to run your motor. $250 for small 2 hp unit. *
* Micro one PLCS for Sale. 8 DC inputs six relay *
* outputs $49.95 Software included... *
* Please see for complete details: *
* http://www.idec.com/usa/html/PLCs_MICRO1.html *
*******************************************************
* Phone: (513) 697-7539 *
* Cell : (513) 300-8632 *
* Email: leroy@f... *
* Home page URL: http://home.fuse.net/leroy/ *
* Resume URL: http://home.fuse.net/leroy/resume.htm *
*******************************************************
* Leroy Hall *
* 317 Cherokee Drive *
* Loveland, Ohio - USA 45140-2404 *
*******************************************************
I made a fairly good board using the PNP film. I did not attempt to
do both sides of the board at the same time however. I did the
transfer on one side of the board, then etched that side. Then, I
drilled two of the points where a component intersected the traces on
both sides of the board (as far apart as possible) an used the same
points on the other sides artwork to line up the PNP perfectly.
I did, however, have to use a resist pen to "clean-up" some of the
artwork prior to etching. I had a bit of trouble with the plastic
carrier shrinking from the heat. I've since spoken to a few people
who say they get amazing results with just plain paper and lots of
heat. They then soak the paper and the artwork remains.
I haven't yet tried the plain paper, but will on the next project.
I also read about a machine that supposedly gives great results
(DynaArt Superfuser, see http://www.mnsi.net/~boucher/emporium.htm
for info that I found pretty good), but at $300US, I think I could
live with the iron and resist pen !
Regards, John.
--- In basicstamps@y..., "Chris Loiacono (E-mail)" <chris01@t...>
wrote:
> Has anyone had good success with "press-n-peel" transfer film when
making
> 2-sided board proto's?
> Aside from registration issues, I'm finding it difficult to heat
both sides
> evenly.
> If anyone has any related experience to share on this, I would
greatly
> appreciate it - I'm burning sheets at $2 per in the meanwhile....
>
> (p.s.- I thought this would be a quick way to check out how well my
> decoupling works on a board layout, vs. the results on the
breadboard.)
>
> Chris
paper and/or copper board when it's a few hundred degrees.
On Fri, 13 Apr 2001, Leroy Hall, Senior wrote:
> This is not quite how I do it. I use plain paper instead of
> transparencies. I then use an clothes iron to transfer the pattern to
> the board. A lot cheaper and when soaked in water, readily leaves the
> film on the copper. Just a little agitation and the paper just rolls
> off. The iron must raise the temperature of the ink up to the point it
> was when it was transferred to the paper in the printing process.
> HOT!! Works great! Cheap and will do lines down to 0.010 easily.
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
> Leroy
>
> fernando hood wrote:
> >
> > I came in a bit late on the pcb manufacturing.
> >
> > I just need a basic understading of the process.
> >
> > Is this the process?
> >
> > 1) Print copy of the layout on transparencies.
> >
> > 2) Clean the board
> >
> > 3) Press the transpareny onto the board.
> >
> > 4) Etch.
> >
> > Is this correct?
> > _________________________________________________________________________
> > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> --
> *******************************************************
> * LeRoy Hall, Senior N8VRC, CET *
> * Phase converters 2hp to 25hp for sale guaranteed *
> * to run your motor. $250 for small 2 hp unit. *
> * Micro one PLCS for Sale. 8 DC inputs six relay *
> * outputs $49.95 Software included... *
> * Please see for complete details: *
> * http://www.idec.com/usa/html/PLCs_MICRO1.html *
> *******************************************************
> * Phone: (513) 697-7539 *
> * Cell : (513) 300-8632 *
> * Email: leroy@f... *
> * Home page URL: http://home.fuse.net/leroy/ *
> * Resume URL: http://home.fuse.net/leroy/resume.htm *
> *******************************************************
> * Leroy Hall *
> * 317 Cherokee Drive *
> * Loveland, Ohio - USA 45140-2404 *
> *******************************************************
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Sean T. Lamont, CTO / Chief NetNerd, Abstract Software, Inc. (ServNet)
Seattle - Bellingham - Vancouver - Portland - Everett - Tacoma - Bremerton
email: lamont@a... WWW: http://www.serv.net
"...There's no moral, it's just a lot of stuff that happens". - H. Simpson