IR detector problems
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Posts: 46,084
Can anyone suggest how to stop my ir detector from oscillating when there is
no ir around for it to detect?
I am using the ir detector sold by radio shack as part no. 276-137b, i
believe this is the Sharp type commonly used as a simple sensor for robot
obstacle detection.
When the detector 'sees' ir from my led's it outputs a clean 0v, however
when it is 'looking' for ir, it oscillates at a high frequency. This effect
is playing havoc with my ability to detect the transistion form hi to lo.
The detector is linked to a BS1 pin directly, i have tried decoupling the
supply and using pull-up resistor(s) with no luck.
Literature suggests the technique I am using to be correct, does anyone have
practical experience??
Any suggestions gratefully received.
Thanks, Steve Pocock
no ir around for it to detect?
I am using the ir detector sold by radio shack as part no. 276-137b, i
believe this is the Sharp type commonly used as a simple sensor for robot
obstacle detection.
When the detector 'sees' ir from my led's it outputs a clean 0v, however
when it is 'looking' for ir, it oscillates at a high frequency. This effect
is playing havoc with my ability to detect the transistion form hi to lo.
The detector is linked to a BS1 pin directly, i have tried decoupling the
supply and using pull-up resistor(s) with no luck.
Literature suggests the technique I am using to be correct, does anyone have
practical experience??
Any suggestions gratefully received.
Thanks, Steve Pocock
Comments
Try putting short tubes over both the emitter and detector or cover the
detector with something to filter out visible light.
Have you downloaded the data sheet from Radio Shack's web page?
Original Message
> Can anyone suggest how to stop my ir detector from oscillating when there
is
> no ir around for it to detect?
>
> I am using the ir detector sold by radio shack as part no. 276-137b, i
> believe this is the Sharp type commonly used as a simple sensor for robot
> obstacle detection.
>
> When the detector 'sees' ir from my led's it outputs a clean 0v, however
> when it is 'looking' for ir, it oscillates at a high frequency. This
effect
> is playing havoc with my ability to detect the transistion form hi to lo.
> The detector is linked to a BS1 pin directly, i have tried decoupling the
> supply and using pull-up resistor(s) with no luck.
that sort of problem.
How I solved it, though, was using an if/next loop, like so: (BS2
code)
VAR REPS BYTE
FOR REPS = 1 TO 12
IF IN1 = 1 THEN NOTHING
NEXT
DEBUG "OBJECT DETECTED",CR
NOTHING:
DEBUG "NO OBJECT DETECTED",CR
This way, if you get 12 consecutive zeros, the stamp will know that
there is a clear signal, and if there are not 12 consecutive zeros,
it will know that there is nothing.
I found that this works really well, and has solved my problems of
false readings. You can play around with the number of reps.... (I
used 12 because it seemed to work best for me)
Well, I hope that helps!
cyz
~Roger~
TenFour
http://korus.cjb.net
--- In basicstamps@y..., Rodent <daweasel@s...> wrote:
> It might be picking up IR from other sources.
>
> Try putting short tubes over both the emitter and detector or cover
the
> detector with something to filter out visible light.
>
> Have you downloaded the data sheet from Radio Shack's web page?
>
>
Original Message
>
>
> > Can anyone suggest how to stop my ir detector from oscillating
when there
> is
> > no ir around for it to detect?
> >
> > I am using the ir detector sold by radio shack as part no. 276-
137b, i
> > believe this is the Sharp type commonly used as a simple sensor
for robot
> > obstacle detection.
> >
> > When the detector 'sees' ir from my led's it outputs a clean 0v,
however
> > when it is 'looking' for ir, it oscillates at a high frequency.
This
> effect
> > is playing havoc with my ability to detect the transistion form
hi to lo.
> > The detector is linked to a BS1 pin directly, i have tried
decoupling the
> > supply and using pull-up resistor(s) with no luck.
junk). You might try a bypass capacitor across Vcc and Gnd (i think a 1 uF
will do it) I found these detectors to false trigger due to sunlight,
incandescent bulbs that are being dimmed, and even flourescent lighting.
These junky detectors were used on a robot that I am rebuilding and their
solution was to use the output to chanrge a capacitor and use an LM741 op
amp as a comparitor to output a 0 or 5V voltage depending on if the
capacitor reached a certain threshold voltage that they chose.
They also sampled the output of the detector 10 times and chose the low or
high value as the one that was sampled the most.
The detectors I am using now work much better and don't require and of this
extra circuitry or code to distinguish between low and high (and they are
MUCH smaller and 1/3 the cost). I will never use the Radio Shack detectors
again. To me they are a big headache and a waste of time.
Regards, Jim
> Can anyone suggest how to stop my ir detector from oscillating when there
is
> no ir around for it to detect?
>
> I am using the ir detector sold by radio shack as part no. 276-137b, i
> believe this is the Sharp type commonly used as a simple sensor for robot
> obstacle detection.
>
> When the detector 'sees' ir from my led's it outputs a clean 0v, however
> when it is 'looking' for ir, it oscillates at a high frequency. This
effect
> is playing havoc with my ability to detect the transistion form hi to lo.
> The detector is linked to a BS1 pin directly, i have tried decoupling the
> supply and using pull-up resistor(s) with no luck.
>
> Literature suggests the technique I am using to be correct, does anyone
have
> practical experience??
>
> Any suggestions gratefully received.
>
> Thanks, Steve Pocock
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
Jim
>
> I've tested these Radio Shack detectors (and I think thay are overpriced
> junk). You might try a bypass capacitor across Vcc and Gnd (i think a 1
uF
> will do it) I found these detectors to false trigger due to sunlight,
> incandescent bulbs that are being dimmed, and even flourescent lighting.
> These junky detectors were used on a robot that I am rebuilding and their
> solution was to use the output to chanrge a capacitor and use an LM741 op
> amp as a comparitor to output a 0 or 5V voltage depending on if the
> capacitor reached a certain threshold voltage that they chose.
>
> They also sampled the output of the detector 10 times and chose the low or
> high value as the one that was sampled the most.
>
> The detectors I am using now work much better and don't require and of
this
> extra circuitry or code to distinguish between low and high (and they are
> MUCH smaller and 1/3 the cost). I will never use the Radio Shack
detectors
> again. To me they are a big headache and a waste of time.
>
> Regards, Jim
>
>
> > Can anyone suggest how to stop my ir detector from oscillating when
there
> is
> > no ir around for it to detect?
> >
> > I am using the ir detector sold by radio shack as part no. 276-137b, i
> > believe this is the Sharp type commonly used as a simple sensor for
robot
> > obstacle detection.
> >
> > When the detector 'sees' ir from my led's it outputs a clean 0v, however
> > when it is 'looking' for ir, it oscillates at a high frequency. This
> effect
> > is playing havoc with my ability to detect the transistion form hi to
lo.
> > The detector is linked to a BS1 pin directly, i have tried decoupling
the
> > supply and using pull-up resistor(s) with no luck.
> >
> > Literature suggests the technique I am using to be correct, does anyone
> have
> > practical experience??
> >
> > Any suggestions gratefully received.
> >
> > Thanks, Steve Pocock
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
Please quote the model and where to find it, I have just the same problem with
the RS junk.
Thanks in advance
ECO
Original Message
From: "Jim Szymczak" <szymczak@c...>
To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: lundi 5 mars 2001 00:14
Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] IR detector problems
>
> I've tested these Radio Shack detectors (and I think thay are overpriced
> junk).
> The detectors I am using now work much better and don't require and of this
> extra circuitry or code to distinguish between low and high (and they are
> MUCH smaller and 1/3 the cost)
Clark at http://www.al-williams.com/wd5gnr/stampfaq.htm#s2.34
(the Basic Stamp FAQ).
Off topic... if you want to see our latest Lego robot (my son Patrick is
having a blast) have a look at
http://www.al-williams.com/wd5gnr/droid.htm -- still no Basic Stamp
controller because I've been too busy, but maybe soon.
Regards,
Al Williams
AWC
* Floating point math for the Stamp, PIC, SX, or any microcontroller:
http://www.al-williams.com/awce/pak1.htm
>
Original Message
> From: ECO [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=EiVI7Zsf9h_qV8q_NxrsEsZ4pSDZDFNTu5-fPQT4xKE_uXdK3AmnWHvBZ-pmQEx-b-mQMGuNA805n3BOZQ]ecourt@b...[/url
> Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 4:59 AM
> To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] IR detector problems
>
>
> Jim
> Please quote the model and where to find it, I have just the same
> problem with the RS junk.
> Thanks in advance
> ECO
>
Original Message
> From: "Jim Szymczak" <szymczak@c...>
> To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: lundi 5 mars 2001 00:14
> Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] IR detector problems
>
>
> >
> > I've tested these Radio Shack detectors (and I think thay are overpriced
> > junk).
> > The detectors I am using now work much better and don't require
> and of this
> > extra circuitry or code to distinguish between low and high
> (and they are
> > MUCH smaller and 1/3 the cost)
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
were $1.35 each in July of 2000 when I bought them a few months ago, now
they are $1.53. Use a 0.1 uF cap across Vcc and gnd up close to the chip
and you are done! (of course you need a 36 kHz oscillator which I made out
of a 555) Size, cost, and reliability makes this unit the winner in my
book. I have reduced the size of my headaches greatly when I switched to
this detector [noparse]:)[/noparse]
I also tested digikey part number 160-1162-ND. This is a slighly larger
package (and made out of metal) then the first part and I found that it
works very equivelent to the PNA4602M-ND (but I thought the PNA chip worked
a bit better). I paid $2.15 for this unit. I am not sure if this unit is
still available from digikey as the part search comes up empty.
> Jim
> Please quote the model and where to find it, I have just the same problem
with the RS junk.
> Thanks in advance
> ECO
>
Original Message
> From: "Jim Szymczak" <szymczak@c...>
> To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: lundi 5 mars 2001 00:14
> Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] IR detector problems
>
>
> >
> > I've tested these Radio Shack detectors (and I think thay are overpriced
> > junk).
> > The detectors I am using now work much better and don't require and of
this
> > extra circuitry or code to distinguish between low and high (and they
are
> > MUCH smaller and 1/3 the cost)
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
Jim
> Ok, the part that I choose to use is digikey part number PNA4602M-ND.
They
> were $1.35 each in July of 2000 when I bought them a few months ago, now
> they are $1.53. Use a 0.1 uF cap across Vcc and gnd up close to the chip
> and you are done! (of course you need a 36 kHz oscillator which I made out
> of a 555) Size, cost, and reliability makes this unit the winner in my
> book. I have reduced the size of my headaches greatly when I switched to
> this detector [noparse]:)[/noparse]
>
> I also tested digikey part number 160-1162-ND. This is a slighly larger
> package (and made out of metal) then the first part and I found that it
> works very equivelent to the PNA4602M-ND (but I thought the PNA chip
worked
> a bit better). I paid $2.15 for this unit. I am not sure if this unit is
> still available from digikey as the part search comes up empty.
>
>
> > Jim
> > Please quote the model and where to find it, I have just the same
problem
> with the RS junk.
> > Thanks in advance
> > ECO
> >
Original Message
> > From: "Jim Szymczak" <szymczak@c...>
> > To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: lundi 5 mars 2001 00:14
> > Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] IR detector problems
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I've tested these Radio Shack detectors (and I think thay are
overpriced
> > > junk).
> > > The detectors I am using now work much better and don't require and of
> this
> > > extra circuitry or code to distinguish between low and high (and they
> are
> > > MUCH smaller and 1/3 the cost)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
My name is Nagi Babu. I'm in the process of re-designing my micro-
robot called, ALIBE (Artificial LIfe BEing). I'm kinda stuck with
something and was hoping if your esteemed experiences could give me a
helping hand with.
I want to use BS2 to send and receive IR data using Serout and Serin.
I know how these commands work, but, am having trouble with finding
the right product to use. I looked at some products from Sharp. But,
they prove way to big (in size) for my project size.
I was reading the app notes # 11 for BS1 in the BS2 manual. They talk
abt using GP1U52X as a receiver and an IR Emitter for Tx. I bought
the GP1U52X (RS-276-137) from Radio Shack, assembled as suggested. I
used 2 separate circuits with a BS2 in each circuit for send and
receive. But, seems like my Trans is not working. I think my receiver
is kinda working. I came to this conclusion because, when I tried
pointing and clicking my spare Remote Controller for one Pioneer prod
onto the receiver, it did receive something from the RC and spit data
out to the debug window.
I'd like to go with small package Tx and Rx package if possible at
all.
Any help is much appreciated. I'm sure you're very busy with your
usual stuff. I'd really appreciate if you could show me some thoughts
and ideas.
Thanks again in Advance.
Nagi Babu
http://nagi.crosscity.com
http://nagi.crosscity.com/basicstamp/alibe
--- In basicstamps@y..., "Al Williams" <alw@a...> wrote:
> There is a nice discussion of IR detector models and prices from
Dennis
> Clark at http://www.al-williams.com/wd5gnr/stampfaq.htm#s2.34
> (the Basic Stamp FAQ).
>
> Off topic... if you want to see our latest Lego robot (my son
Patrick is
> having a blast) have a look at
> http://www.al-williams.com/wd5gnr/droid.htm -- still no Basic Stamp
> controller because I've been too busy, but maybe soon.
>
> Regards,
>
> Al Williams
> AWC
> * Floating point math for the Stamp, PIC, SX, or any
microcontroller:
> http://www.al-williams.com/awce/pak1.htm
>
>
> >
Original Message
> > From: ECO [noparse][[/noparse]mailto:ecourt@b...]
> > Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 4:59 AM
> > To: basicstamps@y...
> > Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] IR detector problems
> >
> >
> > Jim
> > Please quote the model and where to find it, I have just the same
> > problem with the RS junk.
> > Thanks in advance
> > ECO
> >
Original Message
> > From: "Jim Szymczak" <szymczak@c...>
> > To: <basicstamps@y...>
> > Sent: lundi 5 mars 2001 00:14
> > Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] IR detector problems
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I've tested these Radio Shack detectors (and I think thay are
overpriced
> > > junk).
> > > The detectors I am using now work much better and don't require
> > and of this
> > > extra circuitry or code to distinguish between low and high
> > (and they are
> > > MUCH smaller and 1/3 the cost)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
Hate to be a bug. Do you have the circuit that I can try, or is it
something that I should go thru your book?
thanks again
nagi
--- In basicstamps@y..., "Jim Szymczak" <szymczak@c...> wrote:
> Ok, the part that I choose to use is digikey part number PNA4602M-
ND. They
> were $1.35 each in July of 2000 when I bought them a few months
ago, now
> they are $1.53. Use a 0.1 uF cap across Vcc and gnd up close to
the chip
> and you are done! (of course you need a 36 kHz oscillator which I
made out
> of a 555) Size, cost, and reliability makes this unit the winner
in my
> book. I have reduced the size of my headaches greatly when I
switched to
> this detector [noparse]:)[/noparse]
>
> I also tested digikey part number 160-1162-ND. This is a slighly
larger
> package (and made out of metal) then the first part and I found
that it
> works very equivelent to the PNA4602M-ND (but I thought the PNA
chip worked
> a bit better). I paid $2.15 for this unit. I am not sure if this
unit is
> still available from digikey as the part search comes up empty.
>
>
> > Jim
> > Please quote the model and where to find it, I have just the same
problem
> with the RS junk.
> > Thanks in advance
> > ECO
> >
Original Message
> > From: "Jim Szymczak" <szymczak@c...>
> > To: <basicstamps@y...>
> > Sent: lundi 5 mars 2001 00:14
> > Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] IR detector problems
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I've tested these Radio Shack detectors (and I think thay are
overpriced
> > > junk).
> > > The detectors I am using now work much better and don't require
and of
> this
> > > extra circuitry or code to distinguish between low and high
(and they
> are
> > > MUCH smaller and 1/3 the cost)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> I want to use BS2 to send and receive IR data using Serout and Serin.
> I know how these commands work, but, am having trouble with finding
> the right product to use. I looked at some products from Sharp. But,
> they prove way to big (in size) for my project size.
Have a look at these pages:
http://www.rentron.com/Infrared_Remote_Control.htm
http://www.rentron.com/Infrared_Communication.htm
We have complete parts kits for using the Stamp to send & receive serial data
by infrared at 1200 to 2400 baud using simple SEROUT/SERIN commands.
Here's a 3-page schematic showing how to build several infrared remote control
systems using Holtek 4-bit & 8-bit encoder/decoders, and a circuit for sending
and receiving infrared data between two Stamps.
http://www.rentron.com/Files/ir-sch4.pdf
Regards,
- Bruce
webmaster@r...
you with more questions - if that's okay.
nagi
--- In basicstamps@y..., "Webmaster@r..." <breyno2@r...> wrote:
> Hello Nagi,
>
> > I want to use BS2 to send and receive IR data using Serout and
Serin.
> > I know how these commands work, but, am having trouble with
finding
> > the right product to use. I looked at some products from Sharp.
But,
> > they prove way to big (in size) for my project size.
>
> Have a look at these pages:
> http://www.rentron.com/Infrared_Remote_Control.htm
>
> http://www.rentron.com/Infrared_Communication.htm
>
> We have complete parts kits for using the Stamp to send & receive
serial data
> by infrared at 1200 to 2400 baud using simple SEROUT/SERIN commands.
>
> Here's a 3-page schematic showing how to build several infrared
remote control
> systems using Holtek 4-bit & 8-bit encoder/decoders, and a circuit
for sending
> and receiving infrared data between two Stamps.
> http://www.rentron.com/Files/ir-sch4.pdf
>
> Regards,
>
> - Bruce
> webmaster@r...
> Thanks a lot Bruce. I shall read thru the content and will bump into
> you with more questions - if that's okay.
You're welcome - and I'll be happy to answer any questions you have......
If you don't feel like building this yourself, wait about 4-days. I'll have
Fire-Stick II, and III ready.
Fire-Stick II takes serial data from the Stamp, and sends it out via
infrared (up to 100') at 1200-2400 baud. All you need for the receiver
is a simple IR detector module. Runs from a 9-volt battery, and will
even power your Stamp...
Fire-Stick III turns a standard 12-key matrix keypad into an infrared
keypad. The receiver requirements are the same - a simple IR detector
module.
Regards,
- Bruce
webmaster@r...
> nagi
>
>
>
> --- In basicstamps@y..., "Webmaster@r..." <breyno2@r...> wrote:
> > Hello Nagi,
> >
> > > I want to use BS2 to send and receive IR data using Serout and
> Serin.
> > > I know how these commands work, but, am having trouble with
> finding
> > > the right product to use. I looked at some products from Sharp.
> But,
> > > they prove way to big (in size) for my project size.
> >
> > Have a look at these pages:
> > http://www.rentron.com/Infrared_Remote_Control.htm
> >
> > http://www.rentron.com/Infrared_Communication.htm
> >
> > We have complete parts kits for using the Stamp to send & receive
> serial data
> > by infrared at 1200 to 2400 baud using simple SEROUT/SERIN commands.
> >
> > Here's a 3-page schematic showing how to build several infrared
> remote control
> > systems using Holtek 4-bit & 8-bit encoder/decoders, and a circuit
> for sending
> > and receiving infrared data between two Stamps.
> > http://www.rentron.com/Files/ir-sch4.pdf
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > - Bruce
> > webmaster@r...
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
) The stamp may be just a bit too slow ( bs2 ) some of the new stamps may
work just fine I used PBP and a 16f84 running at 10 mhz for this project
and a scope was a real bonus.
The sony codes go something like this they start with a leader of about
2.20 mS they have a synch bit ( idle at 0 ) for .55 mS and the pulses are
read low, 0 = .55 mS and 1 = 1.10 mS, so idle at the 0 volts state and
pulses low .55 mS for 0 and pulses low for 1.10 mS for a 1.
You may use 13 pulsin statements one looks for leader if it is not in the
correct time frame go back and look again until it's around 2.20 mS or even
2 mS this may give the stamp time for a if statement to check the length,
Read_Leader
pulsin 8,0,leader
if leader = 1000 then Read_Data
goto Read_Leader
Read_Data
use 12 more pulsin statements here and look for values of 250 for 0 and 500
for 1 this is guessing on the 2uS timing of a bs2 I used a loop here the
stamp could not handle the timing.
good luck let me know if I can help
Larry Gaminde
nags@c... wrote:
>
> Hello EveryBody,
>
> My name is Nagi Babu. I'm in the process of re-designing my micro-
> robot called, ALIBE (Artificial LIfe BEing). I'm kinda stuck with
> something and was hoping if your esteemed experiences could give me a
> helping hand with.
>
> I want to use BS2 to send and receive IR data using Serout and Serin.
> I know how these commands work, but, am having trouble with finding
> the right product to use. I looked at some products from Sharp. But,
> they prove way to big (in size) for my project size.
>
> I was reading the app notes # 11 for BS1 in the BS2 manual. They talk
> abt using GP1U52X as a receiver and an IR Emitter for Tx. I bought
> the GP1U52X (RS-276-137) from Radio Shack, assembled as suggested. I
> used 2 separate circuits with a BS2 in each circuit for send and
> receive. But, seems like my Trans is not working. I think my receiver
> is kinda working. I came to this conclusion because, when I tried
> pointing and clicking my spare Remote Controller for one Pioneer prod
> onto the receiver, it did receive something from the RC and spit data
> out to the debug window.
>
> I'd like to go with small package Tx and Rx package if possible at
> all.
>
> Any help is much appreciated. I'm sure you're very busy with your
> usual stuff. I'd really appreciate if you could show me some thoughts
> and ideas.
>
> Thanks again in Advance.
>
> Nagi Babu
> http://nagi.crosscity.com
> http://nagi.crosscity.com/basicstamp/alibe
>
> --- In basicstamps@y..., "Al Williams" <alw@a...> wrote:
> > There is a nice discussion of IR detector models and prices from
> Dennis
> > Clark at http://www.al-williams.com/wd5gnr/stampfaq.htm#s2.34
> > (the Basic Stamp FAQ).
> >
> > Off topic... if you want to see our latest Lego robot (my son
> Patrick is
> > having a blast) have a look at
> > http://www.al-williams.com/wd5gnr/droid.htm -- still no Basic Stamp
> > controller because I've been too busy, but maybe soon.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Al Williams
> > AWC
> > * Floating point math for the Stamp, PIC, SX, or any
> microcontroller:
> > http://www.al-williams.com/awce/pak1.htm
> >
> >
> > >
Original Message
> > > From: ECO [noparse][[/noparse]mailto:ecourt@b...]
> > > Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 4:59 AM
> > > To: basicstamps@y...
> > > Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] IR detector problems
> > >
> > >
> > > Jim
> > > Please quote the model and where to find it, I have just the same
> > > problem with the RS junk.
> > > Thanks in advance
> > > ECO
> > >
Original Message
> > > From: "Jim Szymczak" <szymczak@c...>
> > > To: <basicstamps@y...>
> > > Sent: lundi 5 mars 2001 00:14
> > > Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] IR detector problems
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I've tested these Radio Shack detectors (and I think thay are
> overpriced
> > > > junk).
> > > > The detectors I am using now work much better and don't require
> > > and of this
> > > > extra circuitry or code to distinguish between low and high
> > > (and they are
> > > > MUCH smaller and 1/3 the cost)
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
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> > >
>
>
>
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