Shop OBEX P1 Docs P2 Docs Learn Events
Measuring +12v (was ADC and the BSII) — Parallax Forums

Measuring +12v (was ADC and the BSII)

ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
edited 2000-07-31 04:00 in General Discussion
> Is the stamp communicating with the MAX186? Like when you say 0 or 4.095V
> does the ADCin variable have 0 or 4095 in it? When you connect the input
to

While we're on the topic of ADC ... is it possible for me to measure a
voltage outside of the range of the +5 rail? I'd like to measure the
battery voltage in my car.

-- Mitch

Comments

  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2000-07-30 08:12
    Yes you can by using a voltage divider circuit:

    Vout = (R1/(R1 + R2)) * Vin

    Vin
    ^^^^^----Vout
    ^^^^^
    GRND

    12V R2 Vout R1 GRND

    The idea is to make Vout the near the max of your ADC ~5V. Remember a
    battery can float as high as 15V

    Some rough rules of thumb for lead acid batteries: 14.2v fully charged no
    load, 13.8v fully charged small load ~1amp, 12.6v fully charged heavy load
    ~20amp. 11.2v and less is a "dead" battery. A healthy car battery should
    sustain a voltage above 10v under 400amps for 10secs.




    Original Message
    From: "Mitchell D. Miller" <mdmiller2@h...>
    To: <basicstamps@egroups.com>
    Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2000 11:41 PM
    Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Measuring +12v (was ADC and the BSII)


    > > Is the stamp communicating with the MAX186? Like when you say 0 or
    4.095V
    > > does the ADCin variable have 0 or 4095 in it? When you connect the input
    > to
    >
    > While we're on the topic of ADC ... is it possible for me to measure a
    > voltage outside of the range of the +5 rail? I'd like to measure the
    > battery voltage in my car.
    >
    > -- Mitch
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2000-07-30 15:41
    > A healthy car battery should
    > sustain a voltage above 10v under 400amps for 10secs.

    How long should I be able to draw 4A and still start the car afterward?
    Been looking at those electric coolers, and have considered controlling it
    so that it doesn't completely run my car battery down!

    -- Mitch
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2000-07-30 18:49
    > How long should I be able to draw 4A and still start the car afterward?

    It all depends on the amp-hours the car battery is rated for, the outside
    air temp, the condition (age) of the electrolyte. An electric cooler can
    kill a highway trucks' battery system in 6 hours (800 amp-hours +).
    Automotive batteries are not deep cycle, they are designed to give a huge
    current for a short time and then be recharged by the alternator.

    Another thought is: will the electric cooler like being controlled? I
    imagine they use the peltier (sp?) effect. Will the thermo-electric cooler
    like PWM?

    Maybe a safer (no dead battery) solution might be to have a deep cycle golf
    cart battery just for the cooler? Isolate the golf cart battery with a diode
    circuit that will allow the alternator to charge it. But what would the fun
    be in that [noparse]:)[/noparse]

    Please let us know how your project comes along.
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2000-07-31 00:44
    > Another thought is: will the electric cooler like being controlled? I
    > imagine they use the peltier (sp?) effect. Will the thermo-electric cooler
    > like PWM?

    The stuff I'd seen indicates peltier devices work fine with PWM. I've not
    opened up a commercial unit, but suspect they simply turn the unit on until
    a certain temperature is reached, then shut it off. I'd like to modify it
    to actually maintain the temperature by using PWM.

    > Maybe a safer (no dead battery) solution might be to have a deep cycle
    golf
    > cart battery just for the cooler? Isolate the golf cart battery with a
    diode
    > circuit that will allow the alternator to charge it.

    I thought of doing this, too. Not sure of some of the mechanics involved.
    If a diode has a .6v drop, then that means that it'll never even see the
    full charging potential, right? Also, how much current will it draw after
    powering the cooler all night and now you start the car to charge it?

    -- Mitch
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2000-07-31 04:00
    > I thought of doing this, too. Not sure of some of the mechanics involved.
    > If a diode has a .6v drop, then that means that it'll never even see the
    full charging potential, right?

    Thats right, if you go to an RV center they have a diode block that has a
    voltage sense connector for the alternator that figures that all out for
    you. It has hook up and forget instructions.

    >Also, how much current will it draw after
    > powering the cooler all night and now you start the car to charge it?

    Alternators have a current limiting circuit in them. A 60 amp alt will not
    do 65 amps. There should be no problem with charging the deep cycle while
    driving. Large marine alternators make great emergency arc welders.
    Remember that if your main battery is in good condition it will take very
    little current from the alt. Your lights and accesories in the car are
    always run by the alt when the engine is running. Visit your local RV
    dealer and ask about isolators.

    >The stuff I'd seen indicates peltier devices work fine with PWM

    Thats great!

    Good luck, and keep us updated.
    Matthew
Sign In or Register to comment.