Stepper motors
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Posts: 46,084
Hi,
I want to run a small 4 pin stepper motor (the MondoTronics type). Can I
run it directly from the stamp, or do I need to use a driver board? What
kind of code do I need? Thanks.
-William
____________________________
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Soon to be at www.GoRobotics.net!
Robotics books, projects, resources,
links, news, and more!
I want to run a small 4 pin stepper motor (the MondoTronics type). Can I
run it directly from the stamp, or do I need to use a driver board? What
kind of code do I need? Thanks.
-William
____________________________
http://www.botic.com/users/robotcentral
Soon to be at www.GoRobotics.net!
Robotics books, projects, resources,
links, news, and more!
Comments
You said "Super micro stepper motor"? If it is, you should run it with a
driver board or circuit. Recently, I'm thinking about this motor. I maybe
use this motor to construct my small mobil robot...
Simon
Original Message
From: William Cox <william@c...>
To: Stamps <basicstamps@egroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2000 5:13 AM
Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Stepper motors
> Hi,
> I want to run a small 4 pin stepper motor (the MondoTronics type). Can
I
> run it directly from the stamp, or do I need to use a driver board? What
> kind of code do I need? Thanks.
> -William
>
>
>
> ____________________________
> http://www.botic.com/users/robotcentral
> Soon to be at www.GoRobotics.net!
> Robotics books, projects, resources,
> links, news, and more!
>
>
>
>
a pair of L293D's. They both have 4 wires each on them, so i'm
assuming that for one motor, you connect all the leads to the outputs
on one of the chips, and use it to control the polarity of the two
coils. That right?
Well, if it is, now I need to know how to program it. The way I seem
to understand it, if you connect the motor as such, you end up with 8
possible positions to set it to, and you'd make the motor move to
these positions by changing which outputs pins are being
sending/recieving voltage. Just want to check if i'm getting this
right or not.
-Chris
>Ok, so I now have two identical bipolar steppers that i'm using with
>a pair of L293D's. They both have 4 wires each on them, so i'm
>assuming that for one motor, you connect all the leads to the outputs
>on one of the chips, and use it to control the polarity of the two
>coils. That right?
>
>Well, if it is, now I need to know how to program it. The way I seem
>to understand it, if you connect the motor as such, you end up with 8
>possible positions to set it to, and you'd make the motor move to
>these positions by changing which outputs pins are being
>sending/recieving voltage. Just want to check if i'm getting this
>right or not.
Yup, and there is an example for the BS-1 in the Stamp Manual V1.9
"Note #6: A serial stepper-motor controller ....................... 99".
Conversion instructions from BS-1 to BS-2 are also included.
Hope that helps
Regards,
Bruce
>-Chris
>
hookup diagram and there is even a link for the code to drive it. It is not
the way I would write the code, but it looks like it would work. I have some
more compact code at home that I can post if needed.
You are confusing the number of steps in a sequence with the number of steps
in a complete rotation. The number of possible positions is dictated by the
design of the motor. Most common is 200 step per rotation motors. This means
there are 200 distinct positions if driven in full step mode and 400
distinct positions of driven in half step mode. Full step mode has 4 steps
in the sequence and you repeat the sequence 50 times for a full rotation.
Half step has 8 steps per sequence and again 50 repetitions is one motor
rotation.
Tim
[noparse][[/noparse]Denver, CO]
Original Message
From: Chris Rosney <c_rosney@y...>
To: <basicstamps@egroups.com>
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2000 4:31 PM
Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Stepper Motors
> Ok, so I now have two identical bipolar steppers that i'm using with
> a pair of L293D's. They both have 4 wires each on them, so i'm
> assuming that for one motor, you connect all the leads to the outputs
> on one of the chips, and use it to control the polarity of the two
> coils. That right?
>
> Well, if it is, now I need to know how to program it. The way I seem
> to understand it, if you connect the motor as such, you end up with 8
> possible positions to set it to, and you'd make the motor move to
> these positions by changing which outputs pins are being
> sending/recieving voltage. Just want to check if i'm getting this
> right or not.
>
> -Chris
>
>
>
>
>
-Chris
L293D chip. I know the logic works fine, but I had to make some changes to
the original PICBasic Pro code to get it to be Stamp 2 compatible and I have
not actually run it on a stamp. If you want it to only go a specific number
of steps just change how may times it go through myloop and if you want it
to go in the other direction change the For loop to go 0 to 3 (0-7) instead
of counting down.
Tim
[noparse][[/noparse]Denver, CO]
i VAR nib
mystep VAR nib
mySpeed VAR Byte
mySpeed = 10
Dirs = %1111
myLoop:
For i = 3 TO 0 STEP -1 'Full Step
' FOR i = 7 TO 0 STEP -1 'Half Step
LookUp i,[noparse][[/noparse]%1010,%0110,%0101,%1001],mystep 'Full Step
' LOOKUP i,[noparse][[/noparse]%1010,%1000,%1001,%0001,%0101,%0100,%0110,%0010],mystep 'Half
Step
OutA = mystep
Pause mySpeed
Next
GoTo myLoop
END
>
Original Message
> From: Chris Rosney [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=Hlw6SA5xG_QDMLyG9oR93TscfKlVRzGqzDb3-62p5dPQK_ayfwnbAQjYPCfOAiCNN9t9YyPrvsJveg]c_rosney@y...[/url
> Sent: Friday, May 19, 2000 5:31 PM
> To: basicstamps@egroups.com
> Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Stepper Motors
>
>
> Hey, thanks a lot, that explains some of the confusion on my part!
>
> -Chris
>
>
>
>
>
Many of my science and mathematics customers want more precision on our
mobile platforms than we get from servos. So, the answer is stepper
motors? Anyone willing to share sources, ideas, stamp software, etc to
run steppers. What I need are motor/gears to run a 3 inch wheel and push
around 2-3 pounds. Most of the subject matter of past e-mail covered
hacked parts or surplus. So, I would like to also find a "dependable"
source to send our customers to.
TIA
Rick Rowland
http://www.smallrobot.com
www.thomsonind.com
Ray McArthur
Original Message
From: rick rowland <see3peoh@i...>
To: <basicstamps@egroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2000 12:58 AM
Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Stepper motors
> Hello,
> Many of my science and mathematics customers want more precision on our
> mobile platforms than we get from servos. So, the answer is stepper
> motors? Anyone willing to share sources, ideas, stamp software, etc to
> run steppers. What I need are motor/gears to run a 3 inch wheel and push
> around 2-3 pounds. Most of the subject matter of past e-mail covered
> hacked parts or surplus. So, I would like to also find a "dependable"
> source to send our customers to.
> TIA
>
> Rick Rowland
> http://www.smallrobot.com
I'M CURIOUS ABOUT THE NUMBER OF STEPS PER REVOLUTION, AS WELL AS THE NUMBER OF REVOLUTIONS PER MINUTE.· DOES ANYONE KNOW OF ANY "GOOD" STEPPER MOTORS?
THANKS,
DAVID FIXEMER
FIXEMERD@NAVIX.NET
Superior Electric makes some good ones and you can usually find themin the 'used' market.· I've got a couple of uni-polar and a pair ofbipolar motors here.· The bipolar units will one day become an X-Ytable.
Another question that was posted was regarding motor position.·I forgot to mention that an encoder can be connected to the motor shaftto get pretty precise positioning.· If it's REALLY critical, it'sprobably best to go with micro-stepping, which is a whole different matter.·When I was doing that stuff for a living, we used a controller capableof giving us 25,400 steps per rev (if I remember correctly!).· Weused that to drive a lead-screw and had resolution down to a few thousandthsof an inch.
Michael
"Production Technology, Inc." wrote:
rpm is quite variable on many factors. Steppers drop in torque very quickly
with RPM so load is a big factor. Another point is the acceleration.
Steppers have resonance bands. If you can accelerate very rapidly you can
often get though them without stalling. Another factor is the smoothness of
the pulse stream you are feeding them. If the pulses are not evenly enough
spaced the motor will tend to stall as it is seen as a variation in
instantaneous RPM. This has been a big problem with many of the PC based CNC
control programs. Another major factor is the controller you are using. If
it is a chopper driver with a very high voltage relative to the motor
voltage rating you will get a lot more RPM. 10 - 15 X over voltage is common
with a decent current limiting chopper driver and I think the figure for an
optimum setup is more like 25 X over voltage. Another variable is the
voltage rating of the motor. As the rpm's start to rise the limiting factor
is the inductance of the windings. That is what the over voltage helps to
overcome. Having a motor with a lower voltage rating is better. All things
being equal a motor with a 2 v rating will run at a much higher rpm than one
rated at 12 volts. Another consideration is how the motor is hooked up. If
you have a 4 wire motor there are no choices. If you have a 6 wire motor and
you are running as bipolar (will give more power and higher speed than
unipolar) you can connect as 1/2 winding or full winding. If you have an 8
wire motor you can connect in many ways including 1/2 windings in parallel.
For a good article on much of this go to
http://www.geckodrive.com/pdf/step_motor_white_paper.pdf
Hope this did not confuse.
Tim
[noparse][[/noparse]Denver, CO]
Original Message
From: Production Technology, Inc. [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=jVztI37RQCroRs6r1xZgrrlwzGotWtqbYg3LPoCfs4lShG15hj1_GoJ5PAxgS13XFCf8AtwygWk]FIXEMERD@N...[/url
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 2:57 PM
To: basicstamps@egroups.com
Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] STEPPER MOTORS
STAMP GROUP,
I'M CURIOUS ABOUT THE NUMBER OF STEPS PER REVOLUTION, AS WELL AS THE NUMBER
OF REVOLUTIONS PER MINUTE. DOES ANYONE KNOW OF ANY "GOOD" STEPPER MOTORS?
THANKS,
DAVID FIXEMER
FIXEMERD@N...
Thanks for the site reference,... excellent.
Ray McArthur
> For a good article on much of this go to
> http://www.geckodrive.com/pdf/step_motor_white_paper.pdf
>
I have to do a project for school on developing modules for·the Basic Stamp 2 so that it is easier to use in a classroom.
One of the things I·intend to·look at is a module which will allow the BS2 to drive a stepper motor with only 2 pins. One for direction, and one for step. I know that the Phillips SAA1027 allowed this, but this chip is no longer available. ( In Britain at least. Not sure about·elsewhere) My question is, does anyone know of a replacement for this chip?
Yours
Tim
Tim
Denver, CO
·
I have to do a project for school on developing modules for·the Basic Stamp 2 so that it is easier to use in a classroom.
One of the things I·intend to·look at is a module which will allow the BS2 to drive a stepper motor with only 2 pins. One for direction, and one for step. I know that the Phillips SAA1027 allowed this, but this chip is no longer available. ( In Britain at least. Not sure about·elsewhere) My question is, does anyone know of a replacement for this chip?
Yours
Tim
I remember back in college we had a project class where we designed a
micromouse robot as a team. According to our final report which I still
have on disk, we used an Allegro 5804 (UCN5804B) BiMOS II Unipolar
Stepper-Motor Translator/Driver IC, go to http://www.allegromicro.com/sf/5804/
for full specifications. It uses two pins off the microprocessor, one for
step, and the other for direction as you require. They should even send
you free samples.
Hope this helps. If you need any further information just let me know.
Steve
>
> Hello,
>
> I have to do a project for school on developing modules for the Basic
> Stamp 2 so that it is easier to use in a classroom.
> One of the things I intend to look at is a module which will allow the BS2
> to drive a stepper motor with only 2 pins. One for direction, and one for
> step. I know that the Phillips SAA1027 allowed this, but this chip is no
> longer available. ( In Britain at least. Not sure about elsewhere) My
> question is, does anyone know of a replacement for this chip?
>
> Yours
> Tim
>
The UCN 5804B is available from Allegro. I have used it to drive smallunipolar steppers in several applications.
http://www.allegromicro.com/sf/5804/index.htm
Mike
At 04:34 PM 2/14/2001 +0000, you wrote:
I have to do a project for school on developingmodules for the Basic Stamp 2 so that it is easier to use in aclassroom.
One of the things I intend to look at is amodule which will allow the BS2 to drive a stepper motor with only 2pins. One for direction, and one for step. I know that the PhillipsSAA1027 allowed this, but this chip is no longer available. ( In Britainat least. Not sure about elsewhere) My question is, does anyone know of areplacement for this chip?
Yours
Tim
_________________________________
Mike Walsh
walsh@its.caltech.edu
You are right the SAA1027 has been discontinued in the UK. Although you can still get one if you buy it in the Stepper motor driver kit from Maplin electronics. Order Code LK76H. Failing that Maplin do 3 other Stepper motor·IC's L293D, L293E, L6202. Page 1042/3 in current cat.·sales@maplin.co.uk
··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· Hope this is helpful.
··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· Paul.
Original Message
From: Tim Whitmore
To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 4:34 PM
Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Stepper Motors
Hello,
I have to do a project for school on developing modules for·the Basic Stamp 2 so that it is easier to use in a classroom.
One of the things I·intend to·look at is a module which will allow the BS2 to drive a stepper motor with only 2 pins. One for direction, and one for step. I know that the Phillips SAA1027 allowed this, but this chip is no longer available. ( In Britain at least. Not sure about·elsewhere) My question is, does anyone know of a replacement for this chip?
Yours
Tim
store and retrieved 3 stepper motors out of it.
I am able to make the 12v stepper motor from stamp works run just fine - so i
understand the general principle.
I am not able to make any of the scavenged motors run. 2 of them are 28 volt
motors so i am not concerned with them yet; however, one is a 3.4 volt motor so
i think I can get the stamps 5 volts to run it.
Motor:
3.5v - 1.8 degree motor
brown
blue
red
white
yellow
black
Question 1: should i even be hooking this motor directly up to the stamp pins
or should i be putting some precautionary hardware i.e. diods or resistors
inline?
Question 2: This motor has one more colored wire than the motor that came with
the stamp works kit. How do I know what order and to what the different colored
wires are supposed to be hooked up to?
I am able to hook it up similarly to the motor that came with stampworks, but on
the breadboard and run the following code. The motor does not rotate but I can
feel it pulsing as if it would rotate if only i had the sequence correct.
Any help would be appreciated. Also, if i'm a fool for even trying this please
say so.
I have the wires hooked to pins 0 - 5 on the stamp.
I also tried using outL and adjusting DirL and Coils accordingly to try to use
that 5th wire and got
the same result - a pulsing motor with no rotation.
'{$STAMP BS2}
Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils
speed var word
times var word
dirL = %1111
speed = 10
main:
for times = 1 to 25
coils = %1001
pause speed
coils = %1100
pause speed
coils = %0110
pause speed
coils = %0011
next
pause 200
goto main
[noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
motor.
I used my variable PSU to touch each wire (with the black one as common), to
figure out the sequence needed to make the motor rotate. Then the rest (as
on my site) is history...
The Stepper motors I scavenged were from an Apple Printer as well.
--
http://www.lennard.net.nz/
Ben Lennard, NCEE, Dip EE
Electronics R&D - Kiwi Made, Innovative Electronics.
Hm: +64 4 972 7567
Mb: +64 21 536 627
87 Spencer Street
Crofton Downs
Wellington
New Zealand
"To the optimist, the glass is half full. To the pessimist, the glass is
half empty. To the engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be."
No animals were harmed in the transmission of this email, although the
Dog next door is living on borrowed time, let me tell you! Those of you
with an overwhelming fear of the unknown will be gratified to learn that
there is no hidden message revealed by reading this warning backwards.
> From: Matt Lorenz <mklorenz@c...>
> Reply-To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 22:27:17 -0600
> To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] stepper motors
>
> I enjoy scavenging parts so I dismantled an old apple printer i found at a
> junk store and retrieved 3 stepper motors out of it.
>
> I am able to make the 12v stepper motor from stamp works run just fine - so i
> understand the general principle.
>
> I am not able to make any of the scavenged motors run. 2 of them are 28 volt
> motors so i am not concerned with them yet; however, one is a 3.4 volt motor
> so i think I can get the stamps 5 volts to run it.
>
> Motor:
> 3.5v - 1.8 degree motor
> brown
> blue
> red
> white
> yellow
> black
>
> Question 1: should i even be hooking this motor directly up to the stamp pins
> or should i be putting some precautionary hardware i.e. diods or resistors
> inline?
>
> Question 2: This motor has one more colored wire than the motor that came
> with the stamp works kit. How do I know what order and to what the different
> colored wires are supposed to be hooked up to?
>
> I am able to hook it up similarly to the motor that came with stampworks, but
> on the breadboard and run the following code. The motor does not rotate but I
> can feel it pulsing as if it would rotate if only i had the sequence correct.
>
> Any help would be appreciated. Also, if i'm a fool for even trying this
> please say so.
>
> I have the wires hooked to pins 0 - 5 on the stamp.
> I also tried using outL and adjusting DirL and Coils accordingly to try to use
> that 5th wire and got
> the same result - a pulsing motor with no rotation.
>
> '{$STAMP BS2}
> Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils
>
> speed var word
> times var word
>
> dirL = %1111
> speed = 10
>
> main:
>
> for times = 1 to 25
> coils = %1001
> pause speed
> coils = %1100
> pause speed
> coils = %0110
> pause speed
> coils = %0011
> next
> pause 200
> goto main
>
>
>
> [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and Body
> of the message will be ignored.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>I enjoy scavenging parts so I dismantled an old apple printer i found at a
>junk store and retrieved 3 stepper motors out of it.
>
>I am able to make the 12v stepper motor from stamp works run just fine -
>so i understand the general principle.
>
>I am not able to make any of the scavenged motors run. 2 of them are 28
>volt motors so i am not concerned with them yet; however, one is a 3.4
>volt motor so i think I can get the stamps 5 volts to run it.
Matt -
This is an often quoted resources on stepper motors which you may find
very helpful: http://www.cs.uiowa.edu/~jones/step/
Regards,
Bruce Bates
Stamp, without obvious catestrophic results.
You'll need drivers for it.
The easiest way to hook it up is to use a stepper motor controller IC with
power transistors
for the driver part.
The EDE1200 for Unipolar motors (and the EDE1204 for bipolar motors) works
well and has a autorun feature for testing purposes too.
http://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/Jameco/searchResult.d2w/r
eport?sort=BKW&search=ede1200
The documents have a typical schematic that you can wire it up with.
If you don't want to do it yourself you can get a
http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/complete.htm
http://electronickits.com/kit/complete/motor/ck1404.htm like this one
stepper motor kit and hack it a little to hook up to the stamp.
This is a interesting PC parallel port kit
http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/motor/ck1401.htm
Original Message
From: Matt Lorenz [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=RIlb-V0YexGFYN3Qw3NTgyFWonxR1GVXDZ9HmAZqi3WOZJIQhYxW90FSnhnK0EG-AGAqrPei8ujffvb7]mklorenz@c...[/url
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2002 10:27 PM
To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] stepper motors
I enjoy scavenging parts so I dismantled an old apple printer i found at a
junk store and retrieved 3 stepper motors out of it.
I am able to make the 12v stepper motor from stamp works run just fine - so
i understand the general principle.
I am not able to make any of the scavenged motors run. 2 of them are 28
volt motors so i am not concerned with them yet; however, one is a 3.4 volt
motor so i think I can get the stamps 5 volts to run it.
Motor:
3.5v - 1.8 degree motor
brown
blue
red
white
yellow
black
Question 1: should i even be hooking this motor directly up to the stamp
pins or should i be putting some precautionary hardware i.e. diods or
resistors inline?
Question 2: This motor has one more colored wire than the motor that came
with the stamp works kit. How do I know what order and to what the
different colored wires are supposed to be hooked up to?
I am able to hook it up similarly to the motor that came with stampworks,
but on the breadboard and run the following code. The motor does not rotate
but I can feel it pulsing as if it would rotate if only i had the sequence
correct.
Any help would be appreciated. Also, if i'm a fool for even trying this
please say so.
I have the wires hooked to pins 0 - 5 on the stamp.
I also tried using outL and adjusting DirL and Coils accordingly to try to
use that 5th wire and got
the same result - a pulsing motor with no rotation.
'{$STAMP BS2}
Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils
speed var word
times var word
dirL = %1111
speed = 10
main:
for times = 1 to 25
coils = %1001
pause speed
coils = %1100
pause speed
coils = %0110
pause speed
coils = %0011
next
pause 200
goto main
[noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and
Body of the message will be ignored.
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Mensaje original
De: Earl Bollinger [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=joPT8sqcuGi9L9Pq53rk_y-0McE1jkJnebmmWP5g4m0UAcx3-04GMnYclOEvsbevpt_iOTRpYrk-x06O0i8]earlwbollinger@a...[/url
Enviado el: jueves, 28 de noviembre de 2002 08:47
Para: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
Asunto: RE: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] stepper motors
Well it draws about 1 to 2 amps, so you can't directly hook it up to a
Stamp, without obvious catestrophic results.
You'll need drivers for it.
The easiest way to hook it up is to use a stepper motor controller IC with
power transistors
for the driver part.
The EDE1200 for Unipolar motors (and the EDE1204 for bipolar motors) works
well and has a autorun feature for testing purposes too.
http://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/Jameco/searchResult.d2w/r
eport?sort=BKW&search=ede1200
The documents have a typical schematic that you can wire it up with.
If you don't want to do it yourself you can get a
http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/complete.htm
http://electronickits.com/kit/complete/motor/ck1404.htm like this one
stepper motor kit and hack it a little to hook up to the stamp.
This is a interesting PC parallel port kit
http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/motor/ck1401.htm
Original Message
From: Matt Lorenz [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=7XQ7PYY1ta_wrOjXd6hcaLUaLVi8AMwt0GSjWFCsv0T-nh0euMpgR6Ip9WeYGo9279JhTzi8FFVtXw]mklorenz@c...[/url
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2002 10:27 PM
To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] stepper motors
I enjoy scavenging parts so I dismantled an old apple printer i found at a
junk store and retrieved 3 stepper motors out of it.
I am able to make the 12v stepper motor from stamp works run just fine - so
i understand the general principle.
I am not able to make any of the scavenged motors run. 2 of them are 28
volt motors so i am not concerned with them yet; however, one is a 3.4 volt
motor so i think I can get the stamps 5 volts to run it.
Motor:
3.5v - 1.8 degree motor
brown
blue
red
white
yellow
black
Question 1: should i even be hooking this motor directly up to the stamp
pins or should i be putting some precautionary hardware i.e. diods or
resistors inline?
Question 2: This motor has one more colored wire than the motor that came
with the stamp works kit. How do I know what order and to what the
different colored wires are supposed to be hooked up to?
I am able to hook it up similarly to the motor that came with stampworks,
but on the breadboard and run the following code. The motor does not rotate
but I can feel it pulsing as if it would rotate if only i had the sequence
correct.
Any help would be appreciated. Also, if i'm a fool for even trying this
please say so.
I have the wires hooked to pins 0 - 5 on the stamp.
I also tried using outL and adjusting DirL and Coils accordingly to try to
use that 5th wire and got
the same result - a pulsing motor with no rotation.
'{$STAMP BS2}
Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils
speed var word
times var word
dirL = %1111
speed = 10
main:
for times = 1 to 25
coils = %1001
pause speed
coils = %1100
pause speed
coils = %0110
pause speed
coils = %0011
next
pause 200
goto main
[noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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The cogging you describe is either that the motor is way under
powered, ie: feeding a 3.5 volt motor only 5 volts. It should be at
least 5 times the motor nameplate voltage.
or, the load it too great to allow it to start
or, the ramp up speed it too great
or, the motor it not wired correctly.
since a 3.5 volt motor will turn with 3.5 volts and no load, a bench
test is pretty easy.
Since you stated 6 wires, you have a uni-polar stepper. these have 2
sets of windings and each set can be tested with an ohm meter. The
center tap of each circuit will be half the max for that circuit. If
you check wire 1 and 2 and get 10 ohms, and 1 and 3 are 5 ohms, 2 and
3 should be 5 ohms. 3 then is the center tap.
Do the same for 4,5 and 6. the board connection diagram should list
where the center taps go (power) and where the legs go. All you need
to do is to switch one pair of windings.
example : if 1 and 2 are legs and 3 is center/power
and 4 and 5 are legs and 6 is center/power
all you need to do is swap 4 and 5 to 5 and 4.
For hobby purposes, you should be able to make low torque things move
with running the motor at the nameplate voltages. One good test is
to see if you can spin the thing by hand. ie: wheels spin freely.
and you can get about as much torque as it takes to stop the motor by
hand. the cogging will not damage anything, but it is annoying to
listen to.
hope this helps.
one additional piece of data, most motor manufacturers put the
voltage on the namplate that is used to calculate voltages. some,
like Pacific Scientific list the proper running voltage. your higher
voltage motors may be such units.
You can run motors from 5 to 25 times the nameplate voltage, but are
limited to nameplate amps. You really don't get the power from a
stepper until you jack up the voltage. and when/if you looking doing
any real power applications, look into bi-polar wiring of your motors
and get away from using a resitor in the power line. the high
voltages would need huge resistors and need to dump lots of heat.
Dave
> I am able to hook it up similarly to the motor that came with
stampworks, but on the breadboard and run the following code. The
motor does not rotate but I can feel it pulsing as if it would rotate
if only i had the sequence correct.
>
> Any help would be appreciated. Also, if i'm a fool for even trying
this please say so.
>
> I have the wires hooked to pins 0 - 5 on the stamp.
> I also tried using outL and adjusting DirL and Coils accordingly to
try to use that 5th wire and got
> the same result - a pulsing motor with no rotation.
>
> '{$STAMP BS2}
> Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils
>
> speed var word
> times var word
>
> dirL = %1111
> speed = 10
>
> main:
>
> for times = 1 to 25
> coils = %1001
> pause speed
> coils = %1100
> pause speed
> coils = %0110
> pause speed
> coils = %0011
> next
> pause 200
> goto main
>
>
>
> [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
The jameco one may require pasting the second part onto the first part, if
it got cutoff and moved to the next line by the mailer software.
Original Message
From: Jacques Morin Caballero [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=gnuIpkxAb5NfCnGmA5IdkiYRkhhKdjz-EEGjJt8ljHz7nfEIA4FgkpjwgrlMzgFMw5_WmUcinGMxUDlpxlU]jacquemc@c...[/url
Sent: Thursday, November 28, 2002 9:06 AM
To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] stepper motors
I have tried the sites but something is wrong, can't connect to them
Mensaje original
De: Earl Bollinger [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=E2JsgbFrUYY6a_GhGfxY3IVB0xxv8e65mqp-gLJ7eqwB3un6H5dO3SCF9ruR9spFawiCJGdFY6e7mwa0HKkn]earlwbollinger@a...[/url
Enviado el: jueves, 28 de noviembre de 2002 08:47
Para: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
Asunto: RE: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] stepper motors
Well it draws about 1 to 2 amps, so you can't directly hook it up to a
Stamp, without obvious catestrophic results.
You'll need drivers for it.
The easiest way to hook it up is to use a stepper motor controller IC with
power transistors
for the driver part.
The EDE1200 for Unipolar motors (and the EDE1204 for bipolar motors) works
well and has a autorun feature for testing purposes too.
http://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/Jameco/searchResult.d2w/r
eport?sort=BKW&search=ede1200
The documents have a typical schematic that you can wire it up with.
If you don't want to do it yourself you can get a
http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/complete.htm
http://electronickits.com/kit/complete/motor/ck1404.htm like this one
stepper motor kit and hack it a little to hook up to the stamp.
This is a interesting PC parallel port kit
http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/motor/ck1401.htm
Original Message
From: Matt Lorenz [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=envO1mhmYqZMqFY1nXQDllQB2X2CWBvKaGAWOyezYdfw5iBJ_CTKwUWa2XDNHQYTnFOGlhM5pVPa3irRXFo6]mklorenz@c...[/url
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2002 10:27 PM
To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] stepper motors
I enjoy scavenging parts so I dismantled an old apple printer i found at a
junk store and retrieved 3 stepper motors out of it.
I am able to make the 12v stepper motor from stamp works run just fine - so
i understand the general principle.
I am not able to make any of the scavenged motors run. 2 of them are 28
volt motors so i am not concerned with them yet; however, one is a 3.4 volt
motor so i think I can get the stamps 5 volts to run it.
Motor:
3.5v - 1.8 degree motor
brown
blue
red
white
yellow
black
Question 1: should i even be hooking this motor directly up to the stamp
pins or should i be putting some precautionary hardware i.e. diods or
resistors inline?
Question 2: This motor has one more colored wire than the motor that came
with the stamp works kit. How do I know what order and to what the
different colored wires are supposed to be hooked up to?
I am able to hook it up similarly to the motor that came with stampworks,
but on the breadboard and run the following code. The motor does not rotate
but I can feel it pulsing as if it would rotate if only i had the sequence
correct.
Any help would be appreciated. Also, if i'm a fool for even trying this
please say so.
I have the wires hooked to pins 0 - 5 on the stamp.
I also tried using outL and adjusting DirL and Coils accordingly to try to
use that 5th wire and got
the same result - a pulsing motor with no rotation.
'{$STAMP BS2}
Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils
speed var word
times var word
dirL = %1111
speed = 10
main:
for times = 1 to 25
coils = %1001
pause speed
coils = %1100
pause speed
coils = %0110
pause speed
coils = %0011
next
pause 200
goto main
[noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Thanks for the sites very good info
Mensaje original
De: Earl Bollinger [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=DD722YOmS_FcTm1mEaI_gIaZQMSDt19eTopO35vV5Vomm-vohV3BacCH0scuxDyL6nV4DwnUPzHAv-Bj-CtYJws]earlwbollinger@a...[/url
Enviado el: jueves, 28 de noviembre de 2002 13:02
Para: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
Asunto: RE: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] stepper motors
I just tried them all and they are working fine for me.
The jameco one may require pasting the second part onto the first part, if
it got cutoff and moved to the next line by the mailer software.
Original Message
From: Jacques Morin Caballero [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=zWqChbY4wDQ1Jqnfa6MmUm7rmPD9T4ClyL1qiE2ZTXHRapsoUeTsQPYb9VWrLD5x_ucWTDm3HCuJPQ]jacquemc@c...[/url
Sent: Thursday, November 28, 2002 9:06 AM
To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] stepper motors
I have tried the sites but something is wrong, can't connect to them
Mensaje original
De: Earl Bollinger [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=DD722YOmS_FcTm1mEaI_gIaZQMSDt19eTopO35vV5Vomm-vohV3BacCH0scuxDyL6nV4DwnUPzHAv-Bj-CtYJws]earlwbollinger@a...[/url
Enviado el: jueves, 28 de noviembre de 2002 08:47
Para: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
Asunto: RE: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] stepper motors
Well it draws about 1 to 2 amps, so you can't directly hook it up to a
Stamp, without obvious catestrophic results.
You'll need drivers for it.
The easiest way to hook it up is to use a stepper motor controller IC with
power transistors
for the driver part.
The EDE1200 for Unipolar motors (and the EDE1204 for bipolar motors) works
well and has a autorun feature for testing purposes too.
http://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/Jameco/searchResult.d2w/r
eport?sort=BKW&search=ede1200
The documents have a typical schematic that you can wire it up with.
If you don't want to do it yourself you can get a
http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/complete.htm
http://electronickits.com/kit/complete/motor/ck1404.htm like this one
stepper motor kit and hack it a little to hook up to the stamp.
This is a interesting PC parallel port kit
http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/motor/ck1401.htm
Original Message
From: Matt Lorenz [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=daOIPRqEq-Vwi-4u1EfENNpAg483DQ2wwcHalhY46HM0mvS9pFvqBcSDRdlIv-rozYAteRfYIuEGn99fyeZu]mklorenz@c...[/url
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2002 10:27 PM
To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] stepper motors
I enjoy scavenging parts so I dismantled an old apple printer i found at a
junk store and retrieved 3 stepper motors out of it.
I am able to make the 12v stepper motor from stamp works run just fine - so
i understand the general principle.
I am not able to make any of the scavenged motors run. 2 of them are 28
volt motors so i am not concerned with them yet; however, one is a 3.4 volt
motor so i think I can get the stamps 5 volts to run it.
Motor:
3.5v - 1.8 degree motor
brown
blue
red
white
yellow
black
Question 1: should i even be hooking this motor directly up to the stamp
pins or should i be putting some precautionary hardware i.e. diods or
resistors inline?
Question 2: This motor has one more colored wire than the motor that came
with the stamp works kit. How do I know what order and to what the
different colored wires are supposed to be hooked up to?
I am able to hook it up similarly to the motor that came with stampworks,
but on the breadboard and run the following code. The motor does not rotate
but I can feel it pulsing as if it would rotate if only i had the sequence
correct.
Any help would be appreciated. Also, if i'm a fool for even trying this
please say so.
I have the wires hooked to pins 0 - 5 on the stamp.
I also tried using outL and adjusting DirL and Coils accordingly to try to
use that 5th wire and got
the same result - a pulsing motor with no rotation.
'{$STAMP BS2}
Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils
speed var word
times var word
dirL = %1111
speed = 10
main:
for times = 1 to 25
coils = %1001
pause speed
coils = %1100
pause speed
coils = %0110
pause speed
coils = %0011
next
pause 200
goto main
[noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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I have taken your suggestions and found out
a good bit about the motor but still cannot make
it rotate.
I have also read many of the websites people have suggested
and I do have a pretty good idea of the theory of how
these stepper motors work. What i really do not know is
how to tell if a certain driver (the one on the nx-1000) will drive
an arbitrary stepper motor I come up with. I think this might
boil down to a basic electronics question but i'm not certain.
I stand corrected - it is 3v, 3.5ohm, 1.8step.
I am connecting it to the 12V ouputs on the NX-1000.
I have deduced the following from your suggested
ohm readings:
blue leg
yellow leg
black common
brown leg
red leg
white common
I have no idea which is leg A and which is leg B.
Firstly, I am curious to know why when I try to run
this motor does it overheat the 2003AN IC? I would
think that if i'm pumping 12V into a 3V motor it would
overheat the motor if anything. Also, the "known
good motor (the one that came with stampworks)" reads
at like 75+ ohms.
This means the stampworks motor is running about 160mA
where this other motor is running say 3430mA which is
7* tollerance according to the nx-1000 specs.
Is it the lack of resistance the new motor has that
makes the IC get too hot and should I try adding
resistors to correct for this?
I know the IC is still good because I keep switching
back to the "known good" motor and it still works. On
the IC I did fry whichever pin is connected to output
1 on the 7-CH stepper motor driver, but I just moved
up to 4,5,6,7.
At any rate, following is the code i'm running and
several different wiring configs i have tried, all
of which behave about the same. Also this is a
bench test with no load whatsoever on the motor.
'{$STAMP BS2}
Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils
speed var word
times var word
dirA = %1111
speed = 20
main:
for times = 1 to 25
coils = %1100
pause speed
coils = %0110
pause speed
coils = %0011
pause speed
coils = %1001
pause speed
next
'go ahead and end so as not to
'keep trying and hurt something
end
twitches and 2003AN IC gets hot
p0--7--blue
p1--6--yellow
p2--5--brown
p3--4--red
3
2
1
V--black-white
twitches and 2003AN IC gets hot
p0--7--blue
p1--6--yellow
p3--5--brown
p2--4--red
3
2
1
V--black-white
twitches and 2003AN IC gets hot
p0--7--blue
p2--6--yellow
p1--5--brown
p3--4--red
3
2
1
V--black-white
Original Message
From: "Dave Mucha" <davemucha@j...>
To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 28, 2002 10:40 AM
Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: stepper motors
> <snip>
>
> The cogging you describe is either that the motor is way under
> powered, ie: feeding a 3.5 volt motor only 5 volts. It should be at
> least 5 times the motor nameplate voltage.
>
> or, the load it too great to allow it to start
>
> or, the ramp up speed it too great
>
> or, the motor it not wired correctly.
>
>
> since a 3.5 volt motor will turn with 3.5 volts and no load, a bench
> test is pretty easy.
>
> Since you stated 6 wires, you have a uni-polar stepper. these have 2
> sets of windings and each set can be tested with an ohm meter. The
> center tap of each circuit will be half the max for that circuit. If
> you check wire 1 and 2 and get 10 ohms, and 1 and 3 are 5 ohms, 2 and
> 3 should be 5 ohms. 3 then is the center tap.
>
> Do the same for 4,5 and 6. the board connection diagram should list
> where the center taps go (power) and where the legs go. All you need
> to do is to switch one pair of windings.
>
> example : if 1 and 2 are legs and 3 is center/power
> and 4 and 5 are legs and 6 is center/power
> all you need to do is swap 4 and 5 to 5 and 4.
>
> For hobby purposes, you should be able to make low torque things move
> with running the motor at the nameplate voltages. One good test is
> to see if you can spin the thing by hand. ie: wheels spin freely.
> and you can get about as much torque as it takes to stop the motor by
> hand. the cogging will not damage anything, but it is annoying to
> listen to.
>
> hope this helps.
>
> one additional piece of data, most motor manufacturers put the
> voltage on the namplate that is used to calculate voltages. some,
> like Pacific Scientific list the proper running voltage. your higher
> voltage motors may be such units.
>
> You can run motors from 5 to 25 times the nameplate voltage, but are
> limited to nameplate amps. You really don't get the power from a
> stepper until you jack up the voltage. and when/if you looking doing
> any real power applications, look into bi-polar wiring of your motors
> and get away from using a resitor in the power line. the high
> voltages would need huge resistors and need to dump lots of heat.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > I am able to hook it up similarly to the motor that came with
> stampworks, but on the breadboard and run the following code. The
> motor does not rotate but I can feel it pulsing as if it would rotate
> if only i had the sequence correct.
> >
> > Any help would be appreciated. Also, if i'm a fool for even trying
> this please say so.
> >
> > I have the wires hooked to pins 0 - 5 on the stamp.
> > I also tried using outL and adjusting DirL and Coils accordingly to
> try to use that 5th wire and got
> > the same result - a pulsing motor with no rotation.
> >
> > '{$STAMP BS2}
> > Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils
> >
> > speed var word
> > times var word
> >
> > dirL = %1111
> > speed = 10
> >
> > main:
> >
> > for times = 1 to 25
> > coils = %1001
> > pause speed
> > coils = %1100
> > pause speed
> > coils = %0110
> > pause speed
> > coils = %0011
> > next
> > pause 200
> > goto main
> >
> >
> >
> > [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and
Body of the message will be ignored.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
5v at 3.5 ohms translates to about 1.4 amps. A ULN2003 is only designed to
handle about 500ma tops.
12v at 3.5 ohms would be about 3.4 amps.
The 75ohm stepper that came with the NS1000 would be about 66ma, which is
less than the max for the ULN2003, so it would work OK.
Normally you limit the max current that the stepper motor can handle,
otherwise it overheats and you risk burning out a coil.
Small steppers can be driven with the ULN2003 but not the more powerful
ones.
You'll need more poewerful power transistors to handle the heavier stepper
motor.
I think that maybe your speed value is set too fast.
The ULN2003 is getting overloaded and your power supply may be too weak for
the big stepper.
Thus you tend to get twitching.
Steppers typically run at less than 100 rpm. You can get some steppers to
run faster, but you have to carefully ramp up the speed from slow to fast.
But a fast running stepper has little or no torque at high rpms.
I'd probably start at 1/2 second steps and see what happens, having it turn
slow is easier to watch.
Original Message
From: Matt Lorenz [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=egpgXjy9SG9tm5O6Ip2uMOEt5l0vglOs-Qez4-cQ5Fhmbn8IxBJ9UmJzgkb5VTvojqGmCzUpRk48QpLNTw]mklorenz@c...[/url
Sent: Thursday, November 28, 2002 8:28 PM
To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: stepper motors
Dave,
I have taken your suggestions and found out
a good bit about the motor but still cannot make
it rotate.
I have also read many of the websites people have suggested
and I do have a pretty good idea of the theory of how
these stepper motors work. What i really do not know is
how to tell if a certain driver (the one on the nx-1000) will drive
an arbitrary stepper motor I come up with. I think this might
boil down to a basic electronics question but i'm not certain.
I stand corrected - it is 3v, 3.5ohm, 1.8step.
I am connecting it to the 12V ouputs on the NX-1000.
I have deduced the following from your suggested
ohm readings:
blue leg
yellow leg
black common
brown leg
red leg
white common
I have no idea which is leg A and which is leg B.
Firstly, I am curious to know why when I try to run
this motor does it overheat the 2003AN IC? I would
think that if i'm pumping 12V into a 3V motor it would
overheat the motor if anything. Also, the "known
good motor (the one that came with stampworks)" reads
at like 75+ ohms.
This means the stampworks motor is running about 160mA
where this other motor is running say 3430mA which is
7* tollerance according to the nx-1000 specs.
Is it the lack of resistance the new motor has that
makes the IC get too hot and should I try adding
resistors to correct for this?
I know the IC is still good because I keep switching
back to the "known good" motor and it still works. On
the IC I did fry whichever pin is connected to output
1 on the 7-CH stepper motor driver, but I just moved
up to 4,5,6,7.
At any rate, following is the code i'm running and
several different wiring configs i have tried, all
of which behave about the same. Also this is a
bench test with no load whatsoever on the motor.
'{$STAMP BS2}
Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils
speed var word
times var word
dirA = %1111
speed = 20
main:
for times = 1 to 25
coils = %1100
pause speed
coils = %0110
pause speed
coils = %0011
pause speed
coils = %1001
pause speed
next
'go ahead and end so as not to
'keep trying and hurt something
end
twitches and 2003AN IC gets hot
p0--7--blue
p1--6--yellow
p2--5--brown
p3--4--red
3
2
1
V--black-white
twitches and 2003AN IC gets hot
p0--7--blue
p1--6--yellow
p3--5--brown
p2--4--red
3
2
1
V--black-white
twitches and 2003AN IC gets hot
p0--7--blue
p2--6--yellow
p1--5--brown
p3--4--red
3
2
1
V--black-white
Original Message
From: "Dave Mucha" <davemucha@j...>
To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 28, 2002 10:40 AM
Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: stepper motors
> <snip>
>
> The cogging you describe is either that the motor is way under
> powered, ie: feeding a 3.5 volt motor only 5 volts. It should be at
> least 5 times the motor nameplate voltage.
>
> or, the load it too great to allow it to start
>
> or, the ramp up speed it too great
>
> or, the motor it not wired correctly.
>
>
> since a 3.5 volt motor will turn with 3.5 volts and no load, a bench
> test is pretty easy.
>
> Since you stated 6 wires, you have a uni-polar stepper. these have 2
> sets of windings and each set can be tested with an ohm meter. The
> center tap of each circuit will be half the max for that circuit. If
> you check wire 1 and 2 and get 10 ohms, and 1 and 3 are 5 ohms, 2 and
> 3 should be 5 ohms. 3 then is the center tap.
>
> Do the same for 4,5 and 6. the board connection diagram should list
> where the center taps go (power) and where the legs go. All you need
> to do is to switch one pair of windings.
>
> example : if 1 and 2 are legs and 3 is center/power
> and 4 and 5 are legs and 6 is center/power
> all you need to do is swap 4 and 5 to 5 and 4.
>
> For hobby purposes, you should be able to make low torque things move
> with running the motor at the nameplate voltages. One good test is
> to see if you can spin the thing by hand. ie: wheels spin freely.
> and you can get about as much torque as it takes to stop the motor by
> hand. the cogging will not damage anything, but it is annoying to
> listen to.
>
> hope this helps.
>
> one additional piece of data, most motor manufacturers put the
> voltage on the namplate that is used to calculate voltages. some,
> like Pacific Scientific list the proper running voltage. your higher
> voltage motors may be such units.
>
> You can run motors from 5 to 25 times the nameplate voltage, but are
> limited to nameplate amps. You really don't get the power from a
> stepper until you jack up the voltage. and when/if you looking doing
> any real power applications, look into bi-polar wiring of your motors
> and get away from using a resitor in the power line. the high
> voltages would need huge resistors and need to dump lots of heat.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > I am able to hook it up similarly to the motor that came with
> stampworks, but on the breadboard and run the following code. The
> motor does not rotate but I can feel it pulsing as if it would rotate
> if only i had the sequence correct.
> >
> > Any help would be appreciated. Also, if i'm a fool for even trying
> this please say so.
> >
> > I have the wires hooked to pins 0 - 5 on the stamp.
> > I also tried using outL and adjusting DirL and Coils accordingly to
> try to use that 5th wire and got
> > the same result - a pulsing motor with no rotation.
> >
> > '{$STAMP BS2}
> > Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils
> >
> > speed var word
> > times var word
> >
> > dirL = %1111
> > speed = 10
> >
> > main:
> >
> > for times = 1 to 25
> > coils = %1001
> > pause speed
> > coils = %1100
> > pause speed
> > coils = %0110
> > pause speed
> > coils = %0011
> > next
> > pause 200
> > goto main
> >
> >
> >
> > [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
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first is that you must do the ohm's law calc on motor amps and supply
voltage to determine what size resistor to use. both watts as well as
resistsnce.
Second, you are pumping current into an inductive load.
Theroretically, zero speed will yield zero resistance and infinate
amps. when the motor is not spinning, you basically have a dead
short. once you start spinning the motor your volts/amps/resistance
falls in line.
Working with 5 volts is fine to test, and you should get the motor to
spin easily at 5 volts. higher voltages is needed to increase power
of the stepper. power increases as the square of the voltage, so you
can see that low voltage will offer low power.
Regarding leads into the motor, since you know the power lines, the
rest is simple. A resistor on the power supply to limit the total
amps as you determined from calculating the known desired current and
known supply voltage and subrtracting the motor resistance from the
calculated total loop resistance.
if leads
blue = 1
yellow = 2
black (common) = 3
brown = 1a
red = 2a
white (common) = 3a
if the power supply is working properly and you have limited the
current to the stepper and the motor is still cogging (not spinning
but making a grinding noise) then swaping 1a and 2a would allow the
motor to spin. you have not figured out direction. it may be that
the motor is spinning in reverse. if that is the case, swap 1 and 2
and 1a and 2a.
I'm thinking that you are offering unlimited power to the motor, the
motor is shorting out the power and your darlintons are over heating
as a result.
Hope this made some sense.
Dave
--- In basicstamps@y..., Matt Lorenz <mklorenz@c...> wrote:
> Dave,
>
> I have taken your suggestions and found out
> a good bit about the motor but still cannot make
> it rotate.
>
> I have also read many of the websites people have suggested
> and I do have a pretty good idea of the theory of how
> these stepper motors work. What i really do not know is
> how to tell if a certain driver (the one on the nx-1000) will drive
> an arbitrary stepper motor I come up with. I think this might
> boil down to a basic electronics question but i'm not certain.
>
> I stand corrected - it is 3v, 3.5ohm, 1.8step.
>
> I am connecting it to the 12V ouputs on the NX-1000.
>
> I have deduced the following from your suggested
> ohm readings:
>
> blue leg
> yellow leg
> black common
>
> brown leg
> red leg
> white common
>
> I have no idea which is leg A and which is leg B.
>
> Firstly, I am curious to know why when I try to run
> this motor does it overheat the 2003AN IC? I would
> think that if i'm pumping 12V into a 3V motor it would
> overheat the motor if anything. Also, the "known
> good motor (the one that came with stampworks)" reads
> at like 75+ ohms.
>
> This means the stampworks motor is running about 160mA
> where this other motor is running say 3430mA which is
> 7* tollerance according to the nx-1000 specs.
>
> Is it the lack of resistance the new motor has that
> makes the IC get too hot and should I try adding
> resistors to correct for this?
>
> I know the IC is still good because I keep switching
> back to the "known good" motor and it still works. On
> the IC I did fry whichever pin is connected to output
> 1 on the 7-CH stepper motor driver, but I just moved
> up to 4,5,6,7.
>
> At any rate, following is the code i'm running and
> several different wiring configs i have tried, all
> of which behave about the same. Also this is a
> bench test with no load whatsoever on the motor.
>
> '{$STAMP BS2}
> Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils
>
> speed var word
> times var word
>
> dirA = %1111
> speed = 20
> main:
>
> for times = 1 to 25
> coils = %1100
> pause speed
> coils = %0110
> pause speed
> coils = %0011
> pause speed
> coils = %1001
> pause speed
> next
> 'go ahead and end so as not to
> 'keep trying and hurt something
>
> end
>
>
> twitches and 2003AN IC gets hot
> p0--7--blue
> p1--6--yellow
> p2--5--brown
> p3--4--red
> 3
> 2
> 1
> V--black-white
>
> twitches and 2003AN IC gets hot
> p0--7--blue
> p1--6--yellow
> p3--5--brown
> p2--4--red
> 3
> 2
> 1
> V--black-white
>
> twitches and 2003AN IC gets hot
> p0--7--blue
> p2--6--yellow
> p1--5--brown
> p3--4--red
> 3
> 2
> 1
> V--black-white
>
>
Original Message
> From: "Dave Mucha" <davemucha@j...>
> To: <basicstamps@y...>
> Sent: Thursday, November 28, 2002 10:40 AM
> Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: stepper motors
>
>
> > <snip>
> >
> > The cogging you describe is either that the motor is way under
> > powered, ie: feeding a 3.5 volt motor only 5 volts. It should
be at
> > least 5 times the motor nameplate voltage.
> >
> > or, the load it too great to allow it to start
> >
> > or, the ramp up speed it too great
> >
> > or, the motor it not wired correctly.
> >
> >
> > since a 3.5 volt motor will turn with 3.5 volts and no load, a
bench
> > test is pretty easy.
> >
> > Since you stated 6 wires, you have a uni-polar stepper. these
have 2
> > sets of windings and each set can be tested with an ohm meter.
The
> > center tap of each circuit will be half the max for that
circuit. If
> > you check wire 1 and 2 and get 10 ohms, and 1 and 3 are 5 ohms, 2
and
> > 3 should be 5 ohms. 3 then is the center tap.
> >
> > Do the same for 4,5 and 6. the board connection diagram should
list
> > where the center taps go (power) and where the legs go. All you
need
> > to do is to switch one pair of windings.
> >
> > example : if 1 and 2 are legs and 3 is center/power
> > and 4 and 5 are legs and 6 is center/power
> > all you need to do is swap 4 and 5 to 5 and 4.
> >
> > For hobby purposes, you should be able to make low torque things
move
> > with running the motor at the nameplate voltages. One good test
is
> > to see if you can spin the thing by hand. ie: wheels spin freely.
> > and you can get about as much torque as it takes to stop the
motor by
> > hand. the cogging will not damage anything, but it is annoying to
> > listen to.
> >
> > hope this helps.
> >
> > one additional piece of data, most motor manufacturers put the
> > voltage on the namplate that is used to calculate voltages. some,
> > like Pacific Scientific list the proper running voltage. your
higher
> > voltage motors may be such units.
> >
> > You can run motors from 5 to 25 times the nameplate voltage, but
are
> > limited to nameplate amps. You really don't get the power from a
> > stepper until you jack up the voltage. and when/if you looking
doing
> > any real power applications, look into bi-polar wiring of your
motors
> > and get away from using a resitor in the power line. the high
> > voltages would need huge resistors and need to dump lots of heat.
> >
> > Dave
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > I am able to hook it up similarly to the motor that came with
> > stampworks, but on the breadboard and run the following code. The
> > motor does not rotate but I can feel it pulsing as if it would
rotate
> > if only i had the sequence correct.
> > >
> > > Any help would be appreciated. Also, if i'm a fool for even
trying
> > this please say so.
> > >
> > > I have the wires hooked to pins 0 - 5 on the stamp.
> > > I also tried using outL and adjusting DirL and Coils
accordingly to
> > try to use that 5th wire and got
> > > the same result - a pulsing motor with no rotation.
> > >
> > > '{$STAMP BS2}
> > > Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils
> > >
> > > speed var word
> > > times var word
> > >
> > > dirL = %1111
> > > speed = 10
> > >
> > > main:
> > >
> > > for times = 1 to 25
> > > coils = %1001
> > > pause speed
> > > coils = %1100
> > > pause speed
> > > coils = %0110
> > > pause speed
> > > coils = %0011
> > > next
> > > pause 200
> > > goto main
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> > basicstamps-unsubscribe@y...
> > from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the
Subject and
> Body of the message will be ignored.
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
if its rotating, twitching or whatever. sometimes its hard to tell just
watching the shaft or feeling it with a finger.
*********
> Why it overheats?
> 5v at 3.5 ohms translates to about 1.4 amps. A ULN2003 is only designed to
> handle about 500ma tops.
> 12v at 3.5 ohms would be about 3.4 amps.
> The 75ohm stepper that came with the NS1000 would be about 66ma, which is
> less than the max for the ULN2003, so it would work OK.
>
> Normally you limit the max current that the stepper motor can handle,
> otherwise it overheats and you risk burning out a coil.
>
> Small steppers can be driven with the ULN2003 but not the more powerful
> ones.
> You'll need more poewerful power transistors to handle the heavier stepper
> motor.
>
> I think that maybe your speed value is set too fast.
> The ULN2003 is getting overloaded and your power supply may be too weak
for
> the big stepper.
> Thus you tend to get twitching.
> Steppers typically run at less than 100 rpm. You can get some steppers to
> run faster, but you have to carefully ramp up the speed from slow to fast.
> But a fast running stepper has little or no torque at high rpms.
> I'd probably start at 1/2 second steps and see what happens, having it
turn
> slow is easier to watch.
I had made a mistake in an earlier post.
Power output increases proportionally with supply voltage. Losses in
the motor increase with the square of the voltage. At some point the
motor just gets too hot.
I think I wrote that speed increases as the square of voltage.
Motor speed is dependant on how fast you can charge and discharge the
coils. at some point, you cannot make the unit move any faster.
Typically on PC based stepper controlles, 10kH is the best you do.
Mostly because the PC timings. that's 10kH pulses, into a 200 step
per rev motor. Smaller motors can spin faster than large ones.
The point about loss of power at high speed is correct, but it goes
to constant power. Output power is independant of speed.
since the stepper will deliver constant power, you only get so much
umph per minute regardless of speed. double the speed, and you halve
the torque. At low speed that means X amount of torque at low
rpm's. say you are delivering 25 oz/in at the shaft. at 1 rpm you
could say you have 25/1. At high speed, say 50 RPM, you have 25/50
so the motor is very weak.
Stepper MOTORS are designed to run HOT, put you hand and pull it away
hot. not sizzling. electronics are designed to run cool. it
shouldn't be the other way around.
and don't forget to calculate power consumption and watts. You may
be surprised to find that you are running one of these puppies at 30
watts or more. even the limiting resistor my be sized for 30-50
watts. at that point, look into chopper drives and H-Bridges and get
away from the uni-polar style.
Dave
--- In basicstamps@y..., "Earl Bollinger" <earlwbollinger@a...> wrote:
> Why it overheats?
> 5v at 3.5 ohms translates to about 1.4 amps. A ULN2003 is only
designed to
> handle about 500ma tops.
> 12v at 3.5 ohms would be about 3.4 amps.
> The 75ohm stepper that came with the NS1000 would be about 66ma,
which is
> less than the max for the ULN2003, so it would work OK.
>
> Normally you limit the max current that the stepper motor can
handle,
> otherwise it overheats and you risk burning out a coil.
>
> Small steppers can be driven with the ULN2003 but not the more
powerful
> ones.
> You'll need more poewerful power transistors to handle the heavier
stepper
> motor.
>
> I think that maybe your speed value is set too fast.
> The ULN2003 is getting overloaded and your power supply may be too
weak for
> the big stepper.
> Thus you tend to get twitching.
> Steppers typically run at less than 100 rpm. You can get some
steppers to
> run faster, but you have to carefully ramp up the speed from slow
to fast.
> But a fast running stepper has little or no torque at high rpms.
> I'd probably start at 1/2 second steps and see what happens, having
it turn
> slow is easier to watch.
>
>
>
>
Original Message
> From: Matt Lorenz [noparse][[/noparse]mailto:mklorenz@c...]
> Sent: Thursday, November 28, 2002 8:28 PM
> To: basicstamps@y...
> Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: stepper motors
>
>
> Dave,
>
> I have taken your suggestions and found out
> a good bit about the motor but still cannot make
> it rotate.
>
> I have also read many of the websites people have suggested
> and I do have a pretty good idea of the theory of how
> these stepper motors work. What i really do not know is
> how to tell if a certain driver (the one on the nx-1000) will drive
> an arbitrary stepper motor I come up with. I think this might
> boil down to a basic electronics question but i'm not certain.
>
> I stand corrected - it is 3v, 3.5ohm, 1.8step.
>
> I am connecting it to the 12V ouputs on the NX-1000.
>
> I have deduced the following from your suggested
> ohm readings:
>
> blue leg
> yellow leg
> black common
>
> brown leg
> red leg
> white common
>
> I have no idea which is leg A and which is leg B.
>
> Firstly, I am curious to know why when I try to run
> this motor does it overheat the 2003AN IC? I would
> think that if i'm pumping 12V into a 3V motor it would
> overheat the motor if anything. Also, the "known
> good motor (the one that came with stampworks)" reads
> at like 75+ ohms.
>
> This means the stampworks motor is running about 160mA
> where this other motor is running say 3430mA which is
> 7* tollerance according to the nx-1000 specs.
>
> Is it the lack of resistance the new motor has that
> makes the IC get too hot and should I try adding
> resistors to correct for this?
>
> I know the IC is still good because I keep switching
> back to the "known good" motor and it still works. On
> the IC I did fry whichever pin is connected to output
> 1 on the 7-CH stepper motor driver, but I just moved
> up to 4,5,6,7.
>
> At any rate, following is the code i'm running and
> several different wiring configs i have tried, all
> of which behave about the same. Also this is a
> bench test with no load whatsoever on the motor.
>
> '{$STAMP BS2}
> Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils
>
> speed var word
> times var word
>
> dirA = %1111
> speed = 20
> main:
>
> for times = 1 to 25
> coils = %1100
> pause speed
> coils = %0110
> pause speed
> coils = %0011
> pause speed
> coils = %1001
> pause speed
> next
> 'go ahead and end so as not to
> 'keep trying and hurt something
>
> end
>
>
> twitches and 2003AN IC gets hot
> p0--7--blue
> p1--6--yellow
> p2--5--brown
> p3--4--red
> 3
> 2
> 1
> V--black-white
>
> twitches and 2003AN IC gets hot
> p0--7--blue
> p1--6--yellow
> p3--5--brown
> p2--4--red
> 3
> 2
> 1
> V--black-white
>
> twitches and 2003AN IC gets hot
> p0--7--blue
> p2--6--yellow
> p1--5--brown
> p3--4--red
> 3
> 2
> 1
> V--black-white
>
>
Original Message
> From: "Dave Mucha" <davemucha@j...>
> To: <basicstamps@y...>
> Sent: Thursday, November 28, 2002 10:40 AM
> Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: stepper motors
>
>
> > <snip>
> >
> > The cogging you describe is either that the motor is way under
> > powered, ie: feeding a 3.5 volt motor only 5 volts. It should
be at
> > least 5 times the motor nameplate voltage.
> >
> > or, the load it too great to allow it to start
> >
> > or, the ramp up speed it too great
> >
> > or, the motor it not wired correctly.
> >
> >
> > since a 3.5 volt motor will turn with 3.5 volts and no load, a
bench
> > test is pretty easy.
> >
> > Since you stated 6 wires, you have a uni-polar stepper. these
have 2
> > sets of windings and each set can be tested with an ohm meter.
The
> > center tap of each circuit will be half the max for that
circuit. If
> > you check wire 1 and 2 and get 10 ohms, and 1 and 3 are 5 ohms, 2
and
> > 3 should be 5 ohms. 3 then is the center tap.
> >
> > Do the same for 4,5 and 6. the board connection diagram should
list
> > where the center taps go (power) and where the legs go. All you
need
> > to do is to switch one pair of windings.
> >
> > example : if 1 and 2 are legs and 3 is center/power
> > and 4 and 5 are legs and 6 is center/power
> > all you need to do is swap 4 and 5 to 5 and 4.
> >
> > For hobby purposes, you should be able to make low torque things
move
> > with running the motor at the nameplate voltages. One good test
is
> > to see if you can spin the thing by hand. ie: wheels spin freely.
> > and you can get about as much torque as it takes to stop the
motor by
> > hand. the cogging will not damage anything, but it is annoying to
> > listen to.
> >
> > hope this helps.
> >
> > one additional piece of data, most motor manufacturers put the
> > voltage on the namplate that is used to calculate voltages. some,
> > like Pacific Scientific list the proper running voltage. your
higher
> > voltage motors may be such units.
> >
> > You can run motors from 5 to 25 times the nameplate voltage, but
are
> > limited to nameplate amps. You really don't get the power from a
> > stepper until you jack up the voltage. and when/if you looking
doing
> > any real power applications, look into bi-polar wiring of your
motors
> > and get away from using a resitor in the power line. the high
> > voltages would need huge resistors and need to dump lots of heat.
> >
> > Dave
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > I am able to hook it up similarly to the motor that came with
> > stampworks, but on the breadboard and run the following code. The
> > motor does not rotate but I can feel it pulsing as if it would
rotate
> > if only i had the sequence correct.
> > >
> > > Any help would be appreciated. Also, if i'm a fool for even
trying
> > this please say so.
> > >
> > > I have the wires hooked to pins 0 - 5 on the stamp.
> > > I also tried using outL and adjusting DirL and Coils
accordingly to
> > try to use that 5th wire and got
> > > the same result - a pulsing motor with no rotation.
> > >
> > > '{$STAMP BS2}
> > > Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils
> > >
> > > speed var word
> > > times var word
> > >
> > > dirL = %1111
> > > speed = 10
> > >
> > > main:
> > >
> > > for times = 1 to 25
> > > coils = %1001
> > > pause speed
> > > coils = %1100
> > > pause speed
> > > coils = %0110
> > > pause speed
> > > coils = %0011
> > > next
> > > pause 200
> > > goto main
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> > basicstamps-unsubscribe@y...
> > from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the
Subject and
> Body of the message will be ignored.
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@y...
> from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the
Subject and
> Body of the message will be ignored.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/