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Stepper motors — Parallax Forums

Stepper motors

ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
edited 2002-12-06 01:03 in General Discussion
Hi,
I want to run a small 4 pin stepper motor (the MondoTronics type). Can I
run it directly from the stamp, or do I need to use a driver board? What
kind of code do I need? Thanks.
-William



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Comments

  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2000-04-27 02:25
    William,
    You said "Super micro stepper motor"? If it is, you should run it with a
    driver board or circuit. Recently, I'm thinking about this motor. I maybe
    use this motor to construct my small mobil robot...

    Simon

    Original Message
    From: William Cox <william@c...>
    To: Stamps <basicstamps@egroups.com>
    Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2000 5:13 AM
    Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Stepper motors


    > Hi,
    > I want to run a small 4 pin stepper motor (the MondoTronics type). Can
    I
    > run it directly from the stamp, or do I need to use a driver board? What
    > kind of code do I need? Thanks.
    > -William
    >
    >
    >
    > ____________________________
    > http://www.botic.com/users/robotcentral
    > Soon to be at www.GoRobotics.net!
    > Robotics books, projects, resources,
    > links, news, and more!
    >
    >
    >
    >
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2000-05-19 23:31
    Ok, so I now have two identical bipolar steppers that i'm using with
    a pair of L293D's. They both have 4 wires each on them, so i'm
    assuming that for one motor, you connect all the leads to the outputs
    on one of the chips, and use it to control the polarity of the two
    coils. That right?

    Well, if it is, now I need to know how to program it. The way I seem
    to understand it, if you connect the motor as such, you end up with 8
    possible positions to set it to, and you'd make the motor move to
    these positions by changing which outputs pins are being
    sending/recieving voltage. Just want to check if i'm getting this
    right or not.

    -Chris
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2000-05-19 23:39
    At 10:31 PM 5/19/00 +0000, Chris Rosney promulgated:
    >Ok, so I now have two identical bipolar steppers that i'm using with
    >a pair of L293D's. They both have 4 wires each on them, so i'm
    >assuming that for one motor, you connect all the leads to the outputs
    >on one of the chips, and use it to control the polarity of the two
    >coils. That right?
    >
    >Well, if it is, now I need to know how to program it. The way I seem
    >to understand it, if you connect the motor as such, you end up with 8
    >possible positions to set it to, and you'd make the motor move to
    >these positions by changing which outputs pins are being
    >sending/recieving voltage. Just want to check if i'm getting this
    >right or not.


    Yup, and there is an example for the BS-1 in the Stamp Manual V1.9
    "Note #6: A serial stepper-motor controller ....................... 99".

    Conversion instructions from BS-1 to BS-2 are also included.
    Hope that helps

    Regards,

    Bruce


    >-Chris
    >
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2000-05-19 23:52
    http://www.seattlerobotics.org/encoder/may98/steppers.html will give you a
    hookup diagram and there is even a link for the code to drive it. It is not
    the way I would write the code, but it looks like it would work. I have some
    more compact code at home that I can post if needed.

    You are confusing the number of steps in a sequence with the number of steps
    in a complete rotation. The number of possible positions is dictated by the
    design of the motor. Most common is 200 step per rotation motors. This means
    there are 200 distinct positions if driven in full step mode and 400
    distinct positions of driven in half step mode. Full step mode has 4 steps
    in the sequence and you repeat the sequence 50 times for a full rotation.
    Half step has 8 steps per sequence and again 50 repetitions is one motor
    rotation.

    Tim
    [noparse][[/noparse]Denver, CO]

    Original Message
    From: Chris Rosney <c_rosney@y...>
    To: <basicstamps@egroups.com>
    Sent: Friday, May 19, 2000 4:31 PM
    Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Stepper Motors


    > Ok, so I now have two identical bipolar steppers that i'm using with
    > a pair of L293D's. They both have 4 wires each on them, so i'm
    > assuming that for one motor, you connect all the leads to the outputs
    > on one of the chips, and use it to control the polarity of the two
    > coils. That right?
    >
    > Well, if it is, now I need to know how to program it. The way I seem
    > to understand it, if you connect the motor as such, you end up with 8
    > possible positions to set it to, and you'd make the motor move to
    > these positions by changing which outputs pins are being
    > sending/recieving voltage. Just want to check if i'm getting this
    > right or not.
    >
    > -Chris
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2000-05-20 00:31
    Hey, thanks a lot, that explains some of the confusion on my part!

    -Chris
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2000-05-20 02:57
    I think this code will drive your stepper with a L293D. Hook P0 - P3 to the
    L293D chip. I know the logic works fine, but I had to make some changes to
    the original PICBasic Pro code to get it to be Stamp 2 compatible and I have
    not actually run it on a stamp. If you want it to only go a specific number
    of steps just change how may times it go through myloop and if you want it
    to go in the other direction change the For loop to go 0 to 3 (0-7) instead
    of counting down.

    Tim
    [noparse][[/noparse]Denver, CO]

    i VAR nib
    mystep VAR nib
    mySpeed VAR Byte

    mySpeed = 10
    Dirs = %1111


    myLoop:
    For i = 3 TO 0 STEP -1 'Full Step
    ' FOR i = 7 TO 0 STEP -1 'Half Step
    LookUp i,[noparse][[/noparse]%1010,%0110,%0101,%1001],mystep 'Full Step
    ' LOOKUP i,[noparse][[/noparse]%1010,%1000,%1001,%0001,%0101,%0100,%0110,%0010],mystep 'Half
    Step
    OutA = mystep
    Pause mySpeed
    Next
    GoTo myLoop
    END

    >
    Original Message
    > From: Chris Rosney [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=Hlw6SA5xG_QDMLyG9oR93TscfKlVRzGqzDb3-62p5dPQK_ayfwnbAQjYPCfOAiCNN9t9YyPrvsJveg]c_rosney@y...[/url
    > Sent: Friday, May 19, 2000 5:31 PM
    > To: basicstamps@egroups.com
    > Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Stepper Motors
    >
    >
    > Hey, thanks a lot, that explains some of the confusion on my part!
    >
    > -Chris
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2000-05-24 05:58
    Hello,
    Many of my science and mathematics customers want more precision on our
    mobile platforms than we get from servos. So, the answer is stepper
    motors? Anyone willing to share sources, ideas, stamp software, etc to
    run steppers. What I need are motor/gears to run a 3 inch wheel and push
    around 2-3 pounds. Most of the subject matter of past e-mail covered
    hacked parts or surplus. So, I would like to also find a "dependable"
    source to send our customers to.
    TIA

    Rick Rowland
    http://www.smallrobot.com
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2000-05-24 06:13
    Thomson/Airpax has a line of geared stepper motors that may be of interest.
    www.thomsonind.com

    Ray McArthur

    Original Message
    From: rick rowland <see3peoh@i...>
    To: <basicstamps@egroups.com>
    Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2000 12:58 AM
    Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Stepper motors


    > Hello,
    > Many of my science and mathematics customers want more precision on our
    > mobile platforms than we get from servos. So, the answer is stepper
    > motors? Anyone willing to share sources, ideas, stamp software, etc to
    > run steppers. What I need are motor/gears to run a 3 inch wheel and push
    > around 2-3 pounds. Most of the subject matter of past e-mail covered
    > hacked parts or surplus. So, I would like to also find a "dependable"
    > source to send our customers to.
    > TIA
    >
    > Rick Rowland
    > http://www.smallrobot.com
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2000-09-13 21:56
    STAMP GROUP,

    I'M CURIOUS ABOUT THE NUMBER OF STEPS PER REVOLUTION, AS WELL AS THE NUMBER OF REVOLUTIONS PER MINUTE.· DOES ANYONE KNOW OF ANY "GOOD" STEPPER MOTORS?

    THANKS,

    DAVID FIXEMER
    FIXEMERD@NAVIX.NET
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2000-09-13 22:58
    Each motor should have (on it's name plate) the steps per rev as well asthe voltage and current ratings.· As for RPM's, you'll have to experimentwith it.· One nice way to go is to ramp-up to stepping speed and ramp-downto stop.

    Superior Electric makes some good ones and you can usually find themin the 'used' market.· I've got a couple of uni-polar and a pair ofbipolar motors here.· The bipolar units will one day become an X-Ytable.

    Another question that was posted was regarding motor position.·I forgot to mention that an encoder can be connected to the motor shaftto get pretty precise positioning.· If it's REALLY critical, it'sprobably best to go with micro-stepping, which is a whole different matter.·When I was doing that stuff for a living, we used a controller capableof giving us 25,400 steps per rev (if I remember correctly!).· Weused that to drive a lead-screw and had resolution down to a few thousandthsof an inch.

    Michael


    "Production Technology, Inc." wrote:
    ·[size=-1]STAMPGROUP,[/size]·[size=-1]I'MCURIOUS ABOUT THE NUMBER OF STEPS PER REVOLUTION, AS WELL AS THE NUMBEROF REVOLUTIONS PER MINUTE.· DOES ANYONE KNOW OF ANY "GOOD" STEPPERMOTORS?[/size][size=-1]THANKS,[/size][size=-1]DAVIDFIXEMER[/size][size=-1]FIXEMERD@NAVIX.NET[/size]
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2000-09-14 05:04
    Steps per rev will vary, but 200 full steps is a common value. The maximum
    rpm is quite variable on many factors. Steppers drop in torque very quickly
    with RPM so load is a big factor. Another point is the acceleration.
    Steppers have resonance bands. If you can accelerate very rapidly you can
    often get though them without stalling. Another factor is the smoothness of
    the pulse stream you are feeding them. If the pulses are not evenly enough
    spaced the motor will tend to stall as it is seen as a variation in
    instantaneous RPM. This has been a big problem with many of the PC based CNC
    control programs. Another major factor is the controller you are using. If
    it is a chopper driver with a very high voltage relative to the motor
    voltage rating you will get a lot more RPM. 10 - 15 X over voltage is common
    with a decent current limiting chopper driver and I think the figure for an
    optimum setup is more like 25 X over voltage. Another variable is the
    voltage rating of the motor. As the rpm's start to rise the limiting factor
    is the inductance of the windings. That is what the over voltage helps to
    overcome. Having a motor with a lower voltage rating is better. All things
    being equal a motor with a 2 v rating will run at a much higher rpm than one
    rated at 12 volts. Another consideration is how the motor is hooked up. If
    you have a 4 wire motor there are no choices. If you have a 6 wire motor and
    you are running as bipolar (will give more power and higher speed than
    unipolar) you can connect as 1/2 winding or full winding. If you have an 8
    wire motor you can connect in many ways including 1/2 windings in parallel.

    For a good article on much of this go to
    http://www.geckodrive.com/pdf/step_motor_white_paper.pdf

    Hope this did not confuse.

    Tim
    [noparse][[/noparse]Denver, CO]

    Original Message
    From: Production Technology, Inc. [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=jVztI37RQCroRs6r1xZgrrlwzGotWtqbYg3LPoCfs4lShG15hj1_GoJ5PAxgS13XFCf8AtwygWk]FIXEMERD@N...[/url
    Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 2:57 PM
    To: basicstamps@egroups.com
    Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] STEPPER MOTORS


    STAMP GROUP,

    I'M CURIOUS ABOUT THE NUMBER OF STEPS PER REVOLUTION, AS WELL AS THE NUMBER
    OF REVOLUTIONS PER MINUTE. DOES ANYONE KNOW OF ANY "GOOD" STEPPER MOTORS?

    THANKS,

    DAVID FIXEMER
    FIXEMERD@N...
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2000-09-14 05:23
    Tim:
    Thanks for the site reference,... excellent.

    Ray McArthur

    > For a good article on much of this go to
    > http://www.geckodrive.com/pdf/step_motor_white_paper.pdf
    >
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-02-14 16:34
    Hello,

    I have to do a project for school on developing modules for·the Basic Stamp 2 so that it is easier to use in a classroom.
    One of the things I·intend to·look at is a module which will allow the BS2 to drive a stepper motor with only 2 pins. One for direction, and one for step. I know that the Phillips SAA1027 allowed this, but this chip is no longer available. ( In Britain at least. Not sure about·elsewhere) My question is, does anyone know of a replacement for this chip?

    Yours
    Tim
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-02-15 04:42
    Go to http://www.elabinc.com·and check out the EDE1204. It will still require either a bridge or discrete transistors/mosfets, but it will do what you are looking for. Another option is to go with one of the 2 amp controllers kit from http://www.nwlink.com/~kevinro/products.html#Robotics· This unit combines the logic chip with the h-bridge.

    Tim
    Denver, CO
    ·
    Hello,

    I have to do a project for school on developing modules for·the Basic Stamp 2 so that it is easier to use in a classroom.
    One of the things I·intend to·look at is a module which will allow the BS2 to drive a stepper motor with only 2 pins. One for direction, and one for step. I know that the Phillips SAA1027 allowed this, but this chip is no longer available. ( In Britain at least. Not sure about·elsewhere) My question is, does anyone know of a replacement for this chip?

    Yours
    Tim
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-02-15 05:31
    Hi Tim,

    I remember back in college we had a project class where we designed a
    micromouse robot as a team. According to our final report which I still
    have on disk, we used an Allegro 5804 (UCN5804B) BiMOS II Unipolar
    Stepper-Motor Translator/Driver IC, go to http://www.allegromicro.com/sf/5804/
    for full specifications. It uses two pins off the microprocessor, one for
    step, and the other for direction as you require. They should even send
    you free samples.

    Hope this helps. If you need any further information just let me know.

    Steve

    >
    > Hello,
    >
    > I have to do a project for school on developing modules for the Basic
    > Stamp 2 so that it is easier to use in a classroom.
    > One of the things I intend to look at is a module which will allow the BS2
    > to drive a stepper motor with only 2 pins. One for direction, and one for
    > step. I know that the Phillips SAA1027 allowed this, but this chip is no
    > longer available. ( In Britain at least. Not sure about elsewhere) My
    > question is, does anyone know of a replacement for this chip?
    >
    > Yours
    > Tim
    >
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-02-15 17:24
    Tim,
    The UCN 5804B is available from Allegro. I have used it to drive smallunipolar steppers in several applications.
    http://www.allegromicro.com/sf/5804/index.htm
    Mike

    At 04:34 PM 2/14/2001 +0000, you wrote:
    Hello,

    I have to do a project for school on developingmodules for the Basic Stamp 2 so that it is easier to use in aclassroom.
    One of the things I intend to look at is amodule which will allow the BS2 to drive a stepper motor with only 2pins. One for direction, and one for step. I know that the PhillipsSAA1027 allowed this, but this chip is no longer available. ( In Britainat least. Not sure about elsewhere) My question is, does anyone know of areplacement for this chip?

    Yours
    Tim

    _________________________________
    Mike Walsh
    walsh@its.caltech.edu
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2001-02-16 11:49
    Hi Tim,
    You are right the SAA1027 has been discontinued in the UK. Although you can still get one if you buy it in the Stepper motor driver kit from Maplin electronics. Order Code LK76H. Failing that Maplin do 3 other Stepper motor·IC's L293D, L293E, L6202. Page 1042/3 in current cat.·sales@maplin.co.uk
    ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· Hope this is helpful.
    ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· ··· Paul.



    Original Message
    From: Tim Whitmore
    To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
    Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 4:34 PM
    Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Stepper Motors

    Hello,

    I have to do a project for school on developing modules for·the Basic Stamp 2 so that it is easier to use in a classroom.
    One of the things I·intend to·look at is a module which will allow the BS2 to drive a stepper motor with only 2 pins. One for direction, and one for step. I know that the Phillips SAA1027 allowed this, but this chip is no longer available. ( In Britain at least. Not sure about·elsewhere) My question is, does anyone know of a replacement for this chip?

    Yours
    Tim
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2002-11-28 04:27
    I enjoy scavenging parts so I dismantled an old apple printer i found at a junk
    store and retrieved 3 stepper motors out of it.

    I am able to make the 12v stepper motor from stamp works run just fine - so i
    understand the general principle.

    I am not able to make any of the scavenged motors run. 2 of them are 28 volt
    motors so i am not concerned with them yet; however, one is a 3.4 volt motor so
    i think I can get the stamps 5 volts to run it.

    Motor:
    3.5v - 1.8 degree motor
    brown
    blue
    red
    white
    yellow
    black

    Question 1: should i even be hooking this motor directly up to the stamp pins
    or should i be putting some precautionary hardware i.e. diods or resistors
    inline?

    Question 2: This motor has one more colored wire than the motor that came with
    the stamp works kit. How do I know what order and to what the different colored
    wires are supposed to be hooked up to?

    I am able to hook it up similarly to the motor that came with stampworks, but on
    the breadboard and run the following code. The motor does not rotate but I can
    feel it pulsing as if it would rotate if only i had the sequence correct.

    Any help would be appreciated. Also, if i'm a fool for even trying this please
    say so.

    I have the wires hooked to pins 0 - 5 on the stamp.
    I also tried using outL and adjusting DirL and Coils accordingly to try to use
    that 5th wire and got
    the same result - a pulsing motor with no rotation.

    '{$STAMP BS2}
    Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils

    speed var word
    times var word

    dirL = %1111
    speed = 10

    main:

    for times = 1 to 25
    coils = %1001
    pause speed
    coils = %1100
    pause speed
    coils = %0110
    pause speed
    coils = %0011
    next
    pause 200
    goto main



    [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2002-11-28 09:34
    The black wire is *probably* common, and you might have 5 coils in the
    motor.

    I used my variable PSU to touch each wire (with the black one as common), to
    figure out the sequence needed to make the motor rotate. Then the rest (as
    on my site) is history...

    The Stepper motors I scavenged were from an Apple Printer as well.


    --

    http://www.lennard.net.nz/
    Ben Lennard, NCEE, Dip EE

    Electronics R&D - Kiwi Made, Innovative Electronics.

    Hm: +64 4 972 7567
    Mb: +64 21 536 627
    87 Spencer Street
    Crofton Downs
    Wellington
    New Zealand

    "To the optimist, the glass is half full. To the pessimist, the glass is
    half empty. To the engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be."

    No animals were harmed in the transmission of this email, although the
    Dog next door is living on borrowed time, let me tell you! Those of you
    with an overwhelming fear of the unknown will be gratified to learn that
    there is no hidden message revealed by reading this warning backwards.

    > From: Matt Lorenz <mklorenz@c...>
    > Reply-To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
    > Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 22:27:17 -0600
    > To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
    > Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] stepper motors
    >
    > I enjoy scavenging parts so I dismantled an old apple printer i found at a
    > junk store and retrieved 3 stepper motors out of it.
    >
    > I am able to make the 12v stepper motor from stamp works run just fine - so i
    > understand the general principle.
    >
    > I am not able to make any of the scavenged motors run. 2 of them are 28 volt
    > motors so i am not concerned with them yet; however, one is a 3.4 volt motor
    > so i think I can get the stamps 5 volts to run it.
    >
    > Motor:
    > 3.5v - 1.8 degree motor
    > brown
    > blue
    > red
    > white
    > yellow
    > black
    >
    > Question 1: should i even be hooking this motor directly up to the stamp pins
    > or should i be putting some precautionary hardware i.e. diods or resistors
    > inline?
    >
    > Question 2: This motor has one more colored wire than the motor that came
    > with the stamp works kit. How do I know what order and to what the different
    > colored wires are supposed to be hooked up to?
    >
    > I am able to hook it up similarly to the motor that came with stampworks, but
    > on the breadboard and run the following code. The motor does not rotate but I
    > can feel it pulsing as if it would rotate if only i had the sequence correct.
    >
    > Any help would be appreciated. Also, if i'm a fool for even trying this
    > please say so.
    >
    > I have the wires hooked to pins 0 - 5 on the stamp.
    > I also tried using outL and adjusting DirL and Coils accordingly to try to use
    > that 5th wire and got
    > the same result - a pulsing motor with no rotation.
    >
    > '{$STAMP BS2}
    > Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils
    >
    > speed var word
    > times var word
    >
    > dirL = %1111
    > speed = 10
    >
    > main:
    >
    > for times = 1 to 25
    > coils = %1001
    > pause speed
    > coils = %1100
    > pause speed
    > coils = %0110
    > pause speed
    > coils = %0011
    > next
    > pause 200
    > goto main
    >
    >
    >
    > [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    >
    >
    > To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
    > basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
    > from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and Body
    > of the message will be ignored.
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    >
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    >
    >
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2002-11-28 09:43
    At 10:27 PM 11/27/02 -0600, you wrote:
    >I enjoy scavenging parts so I dismantled an old apple printer i found at a
    >junk store and retrieved 3 stepper motors out of it.
    >
    >I am able to make the 12v stepper motor from stamp works run just fine -
    >so i understand the general principle.
    >
    >I am not able to make any of the scavenged motors run. 2 of them are 28
    >volt motors so i am not concerned with them yet; however, one is a 3.4
    >volt motor so i think I can get the stamps 5 volts to run it.
    Matt -

    This is an often quoted resources on stepper motors which you may find
    very helpful: http://www.cs.uiowa.edu/~jones/step/

    Regards,

    Bruce Bates
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2002-11-28 12:46
    Well it draws about 1 to 2 amps, so you can't directly hook it up to a
    Stamp, without obvious catestrophic results.
    You'll need drivers for it.
    The easiest way to hook it up is to use a stepper motor controller IC with
    power transistors
    for the driver part.
    The EDE1200 for Unipolar motors (and the EDE1204 for bipolar motors) works
    well and has a autorun feature for testing purposes too.
    http://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/Jameco/searchResult.d2w/r
    eport?sort=BKW&search=ede1200
    The documents have a typical schematic that you can wire it up with.
    If you don't want to do it yourself you can get a
    http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/complete.htm
    http://electronickits.com/kit/complete/motor/ck1404.htm like this one
    stepper motor kit and hack it a little to hook up to the stamp.

    This is a interesting PC parallel port kit
    http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/motor/ck1401.htm



    Original Message
    From: Matt Lorenz [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=RIlb-V0YexGFYN3Qw3NTgyFWonxR1GVXDZ9HmAZqi3WOZJIQhYxW90FSnhnK0EG-AGAqrPei8ujffvb7]mklorenz@c...[/url
    Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2002 10:27 PM
    To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
    Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] stepper motors


    I enjoy scavenging parts so I dismantled an old apple printer i found at a
    junk store and retrieved 3 stepper motors out of it.

    I am able to make the 12v stepper motor from stamp works run just fine - so
    i understand the general principle.

    I am not able to make any of the scavenged motors run. 2 of them are 28
    volt motors so i am not concerned with them yet; however, one is a 3.4 volt
    motor so i think I can get the stamps 5 volts to run it.

    Motor:
    3.5v - 1.8 degree motor
    brown
    blue
    red
    white
    yellow
    black

    Question 1: should i even be hooking this motor directly up to the stamp
    pins or should i be putting some precautionary hardware i.e. diods or
    resistors inline?

    Question 2: This motor has one more colored wire than the motor that came
    with the stamp works kit. How do I know what order and to what the
    different colored wires are supposed to be hooked up to?

    I am able to hook it up similarly to the motor that came with stampworks,
    but on the breadboard and run the following code. The motor does not rotate
    but I can feel it pulsing as if it would rotate if only i had the sequence
    correct.

    Any help would be appreciated. Also, if i'm a fool for even trying this
    please say so.

    I have the wires hooked to pins 0 - 5 on the stamp.
    I also tried using outL and adjusting DirL and Coils accordingly to try to
    use that 5th wire and got
    the same result - a pulsing motor with no rotation.

    '{$STAMP BS2}
    Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils

    speed var word
    times var word

    dirL = %1111
    speed = 10

    main:

    for times = 1 to 25
    coils = %1001
    pause speed
    coils = %1100
    pause speed
    coils = %0110
    pause speed
    coils = %0011
    next
    pause 200
    goto main



    [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2002-11-28 15:05
    I have tried the sites but something is wrong, can't connect to them

    Mensaje original
    De: Earl Bollinger [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=joPT8sqcuGi9L9Pq53rk_y-0McE1jkJnebmmWP5g4m0UAcx3-04GMnYclOEvsbevpt_iOTRpYrk-x06O0i8]earlwbollinger@a...[/url
    Enviado el: jueves, 28 de noviembre de 2002 08:47
    Para: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
    Asunto: RE: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] stepper motors



    Well it draws about 1 to 2 amps, so you can't directly hook it up to a
    Stamp, without obvious catestrophic results.
    You'll need drivers for it.
    The easiest way to hook it up is to use a stepper motor controller IC with
    power transistors
    for the driver part.
    The EDE1200 for Unipolar motors (and the EDE1204 for bipolar motors) works
    well and has a autorun feature for testing purposes too.
    http://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/Jameco/searchResult.d2w/r
    eport?sort=BKW&search=ede1200
    The documents have a typical schematic that you can wire it up with.
    If you don't want to do it yourself you can get a
    http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/complete.htm
    http://electronickits.com/kit/complete/motor/ck1404.htm like this one
    stepper motor kit and hack it a little to hook up to the stamp.

    This is a interesting PC parallel port kit
    http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/motor/ck1401.htm



    Original Message
    From: Matt Lorenz [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=7XQ7PYY1ta_wrOjXd6hcaLUaLVi8AMwt0GSjWFCsv0T-nh0euMpgR6Ip9WeYGo9279JhTzi8FFVtXw]mklorenz@c...[/url
    Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2002 10:27 PM
    To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
    Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] stepper motors


    I enjoy scavenging parts so I dismantled an old apple printer i found at a
    junk store and retrieved 3 stepper motors out of it.

    I am able to make the 12v stepper motor from stamp works run just fine - so
    i understand the general principle.

    I am not able to make any of the scavenged motors run. 2 of them are 28
    volt motors so i am not concerned with them yet; however, one is a 3.4 volt
    motor so i think I can get the stamps 5 volts to run it.

    Motor:
    3.5v - 1.8 degree motor
    brown
    blue
    red
    white
    yellow
    black

    Question 1: should i even be hooking this motor directly up to the stamp
    pins or should i be putting some precautionary hardware i.e. diods or
    resistors inline?

    Question 2: This motor has one more colored wire than the motor that came
    with the stamp works kit. How do I know what order and to what the
    different colored wires are supposed to be hooked up to?

    I am able to hook it up similarly to the motor that came with stampworks,
    but on the breadboard and run the following code. The motor does not rotate
    but I can feel it pulsing as if it would rotate if only i had the sequence
    correct.

    Any help would be appreciated. Also, if i'm a fool for even trying this
    please say so.

    I have the wires hooked to pins 0 - 5 on the stamp.
    I also tried using outL and adjusting DirL and Coils accordingly to try to
    use that 5th wire and got
    the same result - a pulsing motor with no rotation.

    '{$STAMP BS2}
    Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils

    speed var word
    times var word

    dirL = %1111
    speed = 10

    main:

    for times = 1 to 25
    coils = %1001
    pause speed
    coils = %1100
    pause speed
    coils = %0110
    pause speed
    coils = %0011
    next
    pause 200
    goto main



    [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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    basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2002-11-28 16:40
    <snip>

    The cogging you describe is either that the motor is way under
    powered, ie: feeding a 3.5 volt motor only 5 volts. It should be at
    least 5 times the motor nameplate voltage.

    or, the load it too great to allow it to start

    or, the ramp up speed it too great

    or, the motor it not wired correctly.


    since a 3.5 volt motor will turn with 3.5 volts and no load, a bench
    test is pretty easy.

    Since you stated 6 wires, you have a uni-polar stepper. these have 2
    sets of windings and each set can be tested with an ohm meter. The
    center tap of each circuit will be half the max for that circuit. If
    you check wire 1 and 2 and get 10 ohms, and 1 and 3 are 5 ohms, 2 and
    3 should be 5 ohms. 3 then is the center tap.

    Do the same for 4,5 and 6. the board connection diagram should list
    where the center taps go (power) and where the legs go. All you need
    to do is to switch one pair of windings.

    example : if 1 and 2 are legs and 3 is center/power
    and 4 and 5 are legs and 6 is center/power
    all you need to do is swap 4 and 5 to 5 and 4.

    For hobby purposes, you should be able to make low torque things move
    with running the motor at the nameplate voltages. One good test is
    to see if you can spin the thing by hand. ie: wheels spin freely.
    and you can get about as much torque as it takes to stop the motor by
    hand. the cogging will not damage anything, but it is annoying to
    listen to.

    hope this helps.

    one additional piece of data, most motor manufacturers put the
    voltage on the namplate that is used to calculate voltages. some,
    like Pacific Scientific list the proper running voltage. your higher
    voltage motors may be such units.

    You can run motors from 5 to 25 times the nameplate voltage, but are
    limited to nameplate amps. You really don't get the power from a
    stepper until you jack up the voltage. and when/if you looking doing
    any real power applications, look into bi-polar wiring of your motors
    and get away from using a resitor in the power line. the high
    voltages would need huge resistors and need to dump lots of heat.

    Dave














    > I am able to hook it up similarly to the motor that came with
    stampworks, but on the breadboard and run the following code. The
    motor does not rotate but I can feel it pulsing as if it would rotate
    if only i had the sequence correct.
    >
    > Any help would be appreciated. Also, if i'm a fool for even trying
    this please say so.
    >
    > I have the wires hooked to pins 0 - 5 on the stamp.
    > I also tried using outL and adjusting DirL and Coils accordingly to
    try to use that 5th wire and got
    > the same result - a pulsing motor with no rotation.
    >
    > '{$STAMP BS2}
    > Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils
    >
    > speed var word
    > times var word
    >
    > dirL = %1111
    > speed = 10
    >
    > main:
    >
    > for times = 1 to 25
    > coils = %1001
    > pause speed
    > coils = %1100
    > pause speed
    > coils = %0110
    > pause speed
    > coils = %0011
    > next
    > pause 200
    > goto main
    >
    >
    >
    > [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2002-11-28 17:02
    I just tried them all and they are working fine for me.
    The jameco one may require pasting the second part onto the first part, if
    it got cutoff and moved to the next line by the mailer software.

    Original Message
    From: Jacques Morin Caballero [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=gnuIpkxAb5NfCnGmA5IdkiYRkhhKdjz-EEGjJt8ljHz7nfEIA4FgkpjwgrlMzgFMw5_WmUcinGMxUDlpxlU]jacquemc@c...[/url
    Sent: Thursday, November 28, 2002 9:06 AM
    To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
    Subject: RE: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] stepper motors


    I have tried the sites but something is wrong, can't connect to them

    Mensaje original
    De: Earl Bollinger [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=E2JsgbFrUYY6a_GhGfxY3IVB0xxv8e65mqp-gLJ7eqwB3un6H5dO3SCF9ruR9spFawiCJGdFY6e7mwa0HKkn]earlwbollinger@a...[/url
    Enviado el: jueves, 28 de noviembre de 2002 08:47
    Para: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
    Asunto: RE: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] stepper motors



    Well it draws about 1 to 2 amps, so you can't directly hook it up to a
    Stamp, without obvious catestrophic results.
    You'll need drivers for it.
    The easiest way to hook it up is to use a stepper motor controller IC with
    power transistors
    for the driver part.
    The EDE1200 for Unipolar motors (and the EDE1204 for bipolar motors) works
    well and has a autorun feature for testing purposes too.
    http://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/Jameco/searchResult.d2w/r
    eport?sort=BKW&search=ede1200
    The documents have a typical schematic that you can wire it up with.
    If you don't want to do it yourself you can get a
    http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/complete.htm
    http://electronickits.com/kit/complete/motor/ck1404.htm like this one
    stepper motor kit and hack it a little to hook up to the stamp.

    This is a interesting PC parallel port kit
    http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/motor/ck1401.htm



    Original Message
    From: Matt Lorenz [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=envO1mhmYqZMqFY1nXQDllQB2X2CWBvKaGAWOyezYdfw5iBJ_CTKwUWa2XDNHQYTnFOGlhM5pVPa3irRXFo6]mklorenz@c...[/url
    Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2002 10:27 PM
    To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
    Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] stepper motors


    I enjoy scavenging parts so I dismantled an old apple printer i found at a
    junk store and retrieved 3 stepper motors out of it.

    I am able to make the 12v stepper motor from stamp works run just fine - so
    i understand the general principle.

    I am not able to make any of the scavenged motors run. 2 of them are 28
    volt motors so i am not concerned with them yet; however, one is a 3.4 volt
    motor so i think I can get the stamps 5 volts to run it.

    Motor:
    3.5v - 1.8 degree motor
    brown
    blue
    red
    white
    yellow
    black

    Question 1: should i even be hooking this motor directly up to the stamp
    pins or should i be putting some precautionary hardware i.e. diods or
    resistors inline?

    Question 2: This motor has one more colored wire than the motor that came
    with the stamp works kit. How do I know what order and to what the
    different colored wires are supposed to be hooked up to?

    I am able to hook it up similarly to the motor that came with stampworks,
    but on the breadboard and run the following code. The motor does not rotate
    but I can feel it pulsing as if it would rotate if only i had the sequence
    correct.

    Any help would be appreciated. Also, if i'm a fool for even trying this
    please say so.

    I have the wires hooked to pins 0 - 5 on the stamp.
    I also tried using outL and adjusting DirL and Coils accordingly to try to
    use that 5th wire and got
    the same result - a pulsing motor with no rotation.

    '{$STAMP BS2}
    Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils

    speed var word
    times var word

    dirL = %1111
    speed = 10

    main:

    for times = 1 to 25
    coils = %1001
    pause speed
    coils = %1100
    pause speed
    coils = %0110
    pause speed
    coils = %0011
    next
    pause 200
    goto main



    [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


    To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
    basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2002-11-28 18:06
    yeap sorry about that It was my connection
    Thanks for the sites very good info


    Mensaje original
    De: Earl Bollinger [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=DD722YOmS_FcTm1mEaI_gIaZQMSDt19eTopO35vV5Vomm-vohV3BacCH0scuxDyL6nV4DwnUPzHAv-Bj-CtYJws]earlwbollinger@a...[/url
    Enviado el: jueves, 28 de noviembre de 2002 13:02
    Para: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
    Asunto: RE: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] stepper motors


    I just tried them all and they are working fine for me.
    The jameco one may require pasting the second part onto the first part, if
    it got cutoff and moved to the next line by the mailer software.

    Original Message
    From: Jacques Morin Caballero [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=zWqChbY4wDQ1Jqnfa6MmUm7rmPD9T4ClyL1qiE2ZTXHRapsoUeTsQPYb9VWrLD5x_ucWTDm3HCuJPQ]jacquemc@c...[/url
    Sent: Thursday, November 28, 2002 9:06 AM
    To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
    Subject: RE: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] stepper motors


    I have tried the sites but something is wrong, can't connect to them

    Mensaje original
    De: Earl Bollinger [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=DD722YOmS_FcTm1mEaI_gIaZQMSDt19eTopO35vV5Vomm-vohV3BacCH0scuxDyL6nV4DwnUPzHAv-Bj-CtYJws]earlwbollinger@a...[/url
    Enviado el: jueves, 28 de noviembre de 2002 08:47
    Para: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
    Asunto: RE: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] stepper motors



    Well it draws about 1 to 2 amps, so you can't directly hook it up to a
    Stamp, without obvious catestrophic results.
    You'll need drivers for it.
    The easiest way to hook it up is to use a stepper motor controller IC with
    power transistors
    for the driver part.
    The EDE1200 for Unipolar motors (and the EDE1204 for bipolar motors) works
    well and has a autorun feature for testing purposes too.
    http://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/Jameco/searchResult.d2w/r
    eport?sort=BKW&search=ede1200
    The documents have a typical schematic that you can wire it up with.
    If you don't want to do it yourself you can get a
    http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/complete.htm
    http://electronickits.com/kit/complete/motor/ck1404.htm like this one
    stepper motor kit and hack it a little to hook up to the stamp.

    This is a interesting PC parallel port kit
    http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/motor/ck1401.htm



    Original Message
    From: Matt Lorenz [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=daOIPRqEq-Vwi-4u1EfENNpAg483DQ2wwcHalhY46HM0mvS9pFvqBcSDRdlIv-rozYAteRfYIuEGn99fyeZu]mklorenz@c...[/url
    Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2002 10:27 PM
    To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
    Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] stepper motors


    I enjoy scavenging parts so I dismantled an old apple printer i found at a
    junk store and retrieved 3 stepper motors out of it.

    I am able to make the 12v stepper motor from stamp works run just fine - so
    i understand the general principle.

    I am not able to make any of the scavenged motors run. 2 of them are 28
    volt motors so i am not concerned with them yet; however, one is a 3.4 volt
    motor so i think I can get the stamps 5 volts to run it.

    Motor:
    3.5v - 1.8 degree motor
    brown
    blue
    red
    white
    yellow
    black

    Question 1: should i even be hooking this motor directly up to the stamp
    pins or should i be putting some precautionary hardware i.e. diods or
    resistors inline?

    Question 2: This motor has one more colored wire than the motor that came
    with the stamp works kit. How do I know what order and to what the
    different colored wires are supposed to be hooked up to?

    I am able to hook it up similarly to the motor that came with stampworks,
    but on the breadboard and run the following code. The motor does not rotate
    but I can feel it pulsing as if it would rotate if only i had the sequence
    correct.

    Any help would be appreciated. Also, if i'm a fool for even trying this
    please say so.

    I have the wires hooked to pins 0 - 5 on the stamp.
    I also tried using outL and adjusting DirL and Coils accordingly to try to
    use that 5th wire and got
    the same result - a pulsing motor with no rotation.

    '{$STAMP BS2}
    Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils

    speed var word
    times var word

    dirL = %1111
    speed = 10

    main:

    for times = 1 to 25
    coils = %1001
    pause speed
    coils = %1100
    pause speed
    coils = %0110
    pause speed
    coils = %0011
    next
    pause 200
    goto main



    [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


    To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
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  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2002-11-29 02:28
    Dave,

    I have taken your suggestions and found out
    a good bit about the motor but still cannot make
    it rotate.

    I have also read many of the websites people have suggested
    and I do have a pretty good idea of the theory of how
    these stepper motors work. What i really do not know is
    how to tell if a certain driver (the one on the nx-1000) will drive
    an arbitrary stepper motor I come up with. I think this might
    boil down to a basic electronics question but i'm not certain.

    I stand corrected - it is 3v, 3.5ohm, 1.8step.

    I am connecting it to the 12V ouputs on the NX-1000.

    I have deduced the following from your suggested
    ohm readings:

    blue leg
    yellow leg
    black common

    brown leg
    red leg
    white common

    I have no idea which is leg A and which is leg B.

    Firstly, I am curious to know why when I try to run
    this motor does it overheat the 2003AN IC? I would
    think that if i'm pumping 12V into a 3V motor it would
    overheat the motor if anything. Also, the "known
    good motor (the one that came with stampworks)" reads
    at like 75+ ohms.

    This means the stampworks motor is running about 160mA
    where this other motor is running say 3430mA which is
    7* tollerance according to the nx-1000 specs.

    Is it the lack of resistance the new motor has that
    makes the IC get too hot and should I try adding
    resistors to correct for this?

    I know the IC is still good because I keep switching
    back to the "known good" motor and it still works. On
    the IC I did fry whichever pin is connected to output
    1 on the 7-CH stepper motor driver, but I just moved
    up to 4,5,6,7.

    At any rate, following is the code i'm running and
    several different wiring configs i have tried, all
    of which behave about the same. Also this is a
    bench test with no load whatsoever on the motor.

    '{$STAMP BS2}
    Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils

    speed var word
    times var word

    dirA = %1111
    speed = 20
    main:

    for times = 1 to 25
    coils = %1100
    pause speed
    coils = %0110
    pause speed
    coils = %0011
    pause speed
    coils = %1001
    pause speed
    next
    'go ahead and end so as not to
    'keep trying and hurt something

    end


    twitches and 2003AN IC gets hot
    p0--7--blue
    p1--6--yellow
    p2--5--brown
    p3--4--red
    3
    2
    1
    V--black-white

    twitches and 2003AN IC gets hot
    p0--7--blue
    p1--6--yellow
    p3--5--brown
    p2--4--red
    3
    2
    1
    V--black-white

    twitches and 2003AN IC gets hot
    p0--7--blue
    p2--6--yellow
    p1--5--brown
    p3--4--red
    3
    2
    1
    V--black-white

    Original Message
    From: "Dave Mucha" <davemucha@j...>
    To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
    Sent: Thursday, November 28, 2002 10:40 AM
    Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: stepper motors


    > <snip>
    >
    > The cogging you describe is either that the motor is way under
    > powered, ie: feeding a 3.5 volt motor only 5 volts. It should be at
    > least 5 times the motor nameplate voltage.
    >
    > or, the load it too great to allow it to start
    >
    > or, the ramp up speed it too great
    >
    > or, the motor it not wired correctly.
    >
    >
    > since a 3.5 volt motor will turn with 3.5 volts and no load, a bench
    > test is pretty easy.
    >
    > Since you stated 6 wires, you have a uni-polar stepper. these have 2
    > sets of windings and each set can be tested with an ohm meter. The
    > center tap of each circuit will be half the max for that circuit. If
    > you check wire 1 and 2 and get 10 ohms, and 1 and 3 are 5 ohms, 2 and
    > 3 should be 5 ohms. 3 then is the center tap.
    >
    > Do the same for 4,5 and 6. the board connection diagram should list
    > where the center taps go (power) and where the legs go. All you need
    > to do is to switch one pair of windings.
    >
    > example : if 1 and 2 are legs and 3 is center/power
    > and 4 and 5 are legs and 6 is center/power
    > all you need to do is swap 4 and 5 to 5 and 4.
    >
    > For hobby purposes, you should be able to make low torque things move
    > with running the motor at the nameplate voltages. One good test is
    > to see if you can spin the thing by hand. ie: wheels spin freely.
    > and you can get about as much torque as it takes to stop the motor by
    > hand. the cogging will not damage anything, but it is annoying to
    > listen to.
    >
    > hope this helps.
    >
    > one additional piece of data, most motor manufacturers put the
    > voltage on the namplate that is used to calculate voltages. some,
    > like Pacific Scientific list the proper running voltage. your higher
    > voltage motors may be such units.
    >
    > You can run motors from 5 to 25 times the nameplate voltage, but are
    > limited to nameplate amps. You really don't get the power from a
    > stepper until you jack up the voltage. and when/if you looking doing
    > any real power applications, look into bi-polar wiring of your motors
    > and get away from using a resitor in the power line. the high
    > voltages would need huge resistors and need to dump lots of heat.
    >
    > Dave
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    > > I am able to hook it up similarly to the motor that came with
    > stampworks, but on the breadboard and run the following code. The
    > motor does not rotate but I can feel it pulsing as if it would rotate
    > if only i had the sequence correct.
    > >
    > > Any help would be appreciated. Also, if i'm a fool for even trying
    > this please say so.
    > >
    > > I have the wires hooked to pins 0 - 5 on the stamp.
    > > I also tried using outL and adjusting DirL and Coils accordingly to
    > try to use that 5th wire and got
    > > the same result - a pulsing motor with no rotation.
    > >
    > > '{$STAMP BS2}
    > > Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils
    > >
    > > speed var word
    > > times var word
    > >
    > > dirL = %1111
    > > speed = 10
    > >
    > > main:
    > >
    > > for times = 1 to 25
    > > coils = %1001
    > > pause speed
    > > coils = %1100
    > > pause speed
    > > coils = %0110
    > > pause speed
    > > coils = %0011
    > > next
    > > pause 200
    > > goto main
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > > [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    >
    >
    > To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
    > basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
    > from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and
    Body of the message will be ignored.
    >
    >
    > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
    >
    >
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2002-11-29 03:36
    Why it overheats?
    5v at 3.5 ohms translates to about 1.4 amps. A ULN2003 is only designed to
    handle about 500ma tops.
    12v at 3.5 ohms would be about 3.4 amps.
    The 75ohm stepper that came with the NS1000 would be about 66ma, which is
    less than the max for the ULN2003, so it would work OK.

    Normally you limit the max current that the stepper motor can handle,
    otherwise it overheats and you risk burning out a coil.

    Small steppers can be driven with the ULN2003 but not the more powerful
    ones.
    You'll need more poewerful power transistors to handle the heavier stepper
    motor.

    I think that maybe your speed value is set too fast.
    The ULN2003 is getting overloaded and your power supply may be too weak for
    the big stepper.
    Thus you tend to get twitching.
    Steppers typically run at less than 100 rpm. You can get some steppers to
    run faster, but you have to carefully ramp up the speed from slow to fast.
    But a fast running stepper has little or no torque at high rpms.
    I'd probably start at 1/2 second steps and see what happens, having it turn
    slow is easier to watch.



    Original Message
    From: Matt Lorenz [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=egpgXjy9SG9tm5O6Ip2uMOEt5l0vglOs-Qez4-cQ5Fhmbn8IxBJ9UmJzgkb5VTvojqGmCzUpRk48QpLNTw]mklorenz@c...[/url
    Sent: Thursday, November 28, 2002 8:28 PM
    To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
    Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: stepper motors


    Dave,

    I have taken your suggestions and found out
    a good bit about the motor but still cannot make
    it rotate.

    I have also read many of the websites people have suggested
    and I do have a pretty good idea of the theory of how
    these stepper motors work. What i really do not know is
    how to tell if a certain driver (the one on the nx-1000) will drive
    an arbitrary stepper motor I come up with. I think this might
    boil down to a basic electronics question but i'm not certain.

    I stand corrected - it is 3v, 3.5ohm, 1.8step.

    I am connecting it to the 12V ouputs on the NX-1000.

    I have deduced the following from your suggested
    ohm readings:

    blue leg
    yellow leg
    black common

    brown leg
    red leg
    white common

    I have no idea which is leg A and which is leg B.

    Firstly, I am curious to know why when I try to run
    this motor does it overheat the 2003AN IC? I would
    think that if i'm pumping 12V into a 3V motor it would
    overheat the motor if anything. Also, the "known
    good motor (the one that came with stampworks)" reads
    at like 75+ ohms.

    This means the stampworks motor is running about 160mA
    where this other motor is running say 3430mA which is
    7* tollerance according to the nx-1000 specs.

    Is it the lack of resistance the new motor has that
    makes the IC get too hot and should I try adding
    resistors to correct for this?

    I know the IC is still good because I keep switching
    back to the "known good" motor and it still works. On
    the IC I did fry whichever pin is connected to output
    1 on the 7-CH stepper motor driver, but I just moved
    up to 4,5,6,7.

    At any rate, following is the code i'm running and
    several different wiring configs i have tried, all
    of which behave about the same. Also this is a
    bench test with no load whatsoever on the motor.

    '{$STAMP BS2}
    Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils

    speed var word
    times var word

    dirA = %1111
    speed = 20
    main:

    for times = 1 to 25
    coils = %1100
    pause speed
    coils = %0110
    pause speed
    coils = %0011
    pause speed
    coils = %1001
    pause speed
    next
    'go ahead and end so as not to
    'keep trying and hurt something

    end


    twitches and 2003AN IC gets hot
    p0--7--blue
    p1--6--yellow
    p2--5--brown
    p3--4--red
    3
    2
    1
    V--black-white

    twitches and 2003AN IC gets hot
    p0--7--blue
    p1--6--yellow
    p3--5--brown
    p2--4--red
    3
    2
    1
    V--black-white

    twitches and 2003AN IC gets hot
    p0--7--blue
    p2--6--yellow
    p1--5--brown
    p3--4--red
    3
    2
    1
    V--black-white

    Original Message
    From: "Dave Mucha" <davemucha@j...>
    To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
    Sent: Thursday, November 28, 2002 10:40 AM
    Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: stepper motors


    > <snip>
    >
    > The cogging you describe is either that the motor is way under
    > powered, ie: feeding a 3.5 volt motor only 5 volts. It should be at
    > least 5 times the motor nameplate voltage.
    >
    > or, the load it too great to allow it to start
    >
    > or, the ramp up speed it too great
    >
    > or, the motor it not wired correctly.
    >
    >
    > since a 3.5 volt motor will turn with 3.5 volts and no load, a bench
    > test is pretty easy.
    >
    > Since you stated 6 wires, you have a uni-polar stepper. these have 2
    > sets of windings and each set can be tested with an ohm meter. The
    > center tap of each circuit will be half the max for that circuit. If
    > you check wire 1 and 2 and get 10 ohms, and 1 and 3 are 5 ohms, 2 and
    > 3 should be 5 ohms. 3 then is the center tap.
    >
    > Do the same for 4,5 and 6. the board connection diagram should list
    > where the center taps go (power) and where the legs go. All you need
    > to do is to switch one pair of windings.
    >
    > example : if 1 and 2 are legs and 3 is center/power
    > and 4 and 5 are legs and 6 is center/power
    > all you need to do is swap 4 and 5 to 5 and 4.
    >
    > For hobby purposes, you should be able to make low torque things move
    > with running the motor at the nameplate voltages. One good test is
    > to see if you can spin the thing by hand. ie: wheels spin freely.
    > and you can get about as much torque as it takes to stop the motor by
    > hand. the cogging will not damage anything, but it is annoying to
    > listen to.
    >
    > hope this helps.
    >
    > one additional piece of data, most motor manufacturers put the
    > voltage on the namplate that is used to calculate voltages. some,
    > like Pacific Scientific list the proper running voltage. your higher
    > voltage motors may be such units.
    >
    > You can run motors from 5 to 25 times the nameplate voltage, but are
    > limited to nameplate amps. You really don't get the power from a
    > stepper until you jack up the voltage. and when/if you looking doing
    > any real power applications, look into bi-polar wiring of your motors
    > and get away from using a resitor in the power line. the high
    > voltages would need huge resistors and need to dump lots of heat.
    >
    > Dave
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    > > I am able to hook it up similarly to the motor that came with
    > stampworks, but on the breadboard and run the following code. The
    > motor does not rotate but I can feel it pulsing as if it would rotate
    > if only i had the sequence correct.
    > >
    > > Any help would be appreciated. Also, if i'm a fool for even trying
    > this please say so.
    > >
    > > I have the wires hooked to pins 0 - 5 on the stamp.
    > > I also tried using outL and adjusting DirL and Coils accordingly to
    > try to use that 5th wire and got
    > > the same result - a pulsing motor with no rotation.
    > >
    > > '{$STAMP BS2}
    > > Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils
    > >
    > > speed var word
    > > times var word
    > >
    > > dirL = %1111
    > > speed = 10
    > >
    > > main:
    > >
    > > for times = 1 to 25
    > > coils = %1001
    > > pause speed
    > > coils = %1100
    > > pause speed
    > > coils = %0110
    > > pause speed
    > > coils = %0011
    > > next
    > > pause 200
    > > goto main
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > > [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    >
    >
    > To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
    > basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
    > from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and
    Body of the message will be ignored.
    >
    >
    > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
    >
    >


    To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
    basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
    from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and
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    Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2002-11-29 03:57
    Interesting results.

    first is that you must do the ohm's law calc on motor amps and supply
    voltage to determine what size resistor to use. both watts as well as
    resistsnce.

    Second, you are pumping current into an inductive load.
    Theroretically, zero speed will yield zero resistance and infinate
    amps. when the motor is not spinning, you basically have a dead
    short. once you start spinning the motor your volts/amps/resistance
    falls in line.

    Working with 5 volts is fine to test, and you should get the motor to
    spin easily at 5 volts. higher voltages is needed to increase power
    of the stepper. power increases as the square of the voltage, so you
    can see that low voltage will offer low power.

    Regarding leads into the motor, since you know the power lines, the
    rest is simple. A resistor on the power supply to limit the total
    amps as you determined from calculating the known desired current and
    known supply voltage and subrtracting the motor resistance from the
    calculated total loop resistance.

    if leads
    blue = 1
    yellow = 2
    black (common) = 3
    brown = 1a
    red = 2a
    white (common) = 3a

    if the power supply is working properly and you have limited the
    current to the stepper and the motor is still cogging (not spinning
    but making a grinding noise) then swaping 1a and 2a would allow the
    motor to spin. you have not figured out direction. it may be that
    the motor is spinning in reverse. if that is the case, swap 1 and 2
    and 1a and 2a.

    I'm thinking that you are offering unlimited power to the motor, the
    motor is shorting out the power and your darlintons are over heating
    as a result.

    Hope this made some sense.

    Dave







    --- In basicstamps@y..., Matt Lorenz <mklorenz@c...> wrote:
    > Dave,
    >
    > I have taken your suggestions and found out
    > a good bit about the motor but still cannot make
    > it rotate.
    >
    > I have also read many of the websites people have suggested
    > and I do have a pretty good idea of the theory of how
    > these stepper motors work. What i really do not know is
    > how to tell if a certain driver (the one on the nx-1000) will drive
    > an arbitrary stepper motor I come up with. I think this might
    > boil down to a basic electronics question but i'm not certain.
    >
    > I stand corrected - it is 3v, 3.5ohm, 1.8step.
    >
    > I am connecting it to the 12V ouputs on the NX-1000.
    >
    > I have deduced the following from your suggested
    > ohm readings:
    >
    > blue leg
    > yellow leg
    > black common
    >
    > brown leg
    > red leg
    > white common
    >
    > I have no idea which is leg A and which is leg B.
    >
    > Firstly, I am curious to know why when I try to run
    > this motor does it overheat the 2003AN IC? I would
    > think that if i'm pumping 12V into a 3V motor it would
    > overheat the motor if anything. Also, the "known
    > good motor (the one that came with stampworks)" reads
    > at like 75+ ohms.
    >
    > This means the stampworks motor is running about 160mA
    > where this other motor is running say 3430mA which is
    > 7* tollerance according to the nx-1000 specs.
    >
    > Is it the lack of resistance the new motor has that
    > makes the IC get too hot and should I try adding
    > resistors to correct for this?
    >
    > I know the IC is still good because I keep switching
    > back to the "known good" motor and it still works. On
    > the IC I did fry whichever pin is connected to output
    > 1 on the 7-CH stepper motor driver, but I just moved
    > up to 4,5,6,7.
    >
    > At any rate, following is the code i'm running and
    > several different wiring configs i have tried, all
    > of which behave about the same. Also this is a
    > bench test with no load whatsoever on the motor.
    >
    > '{$STAMP BS2}
    > Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils
    >
    > speed var word
    > times var word
    >
    > dirA = %1111
    > speed = 20
    > main:
    >
    > for times = 1 to 25
    > coils = %1100
    > pause speed
    > coils = %0110
    > pause speed
    > coils = %0011
    > pause speed
    > coils = %1001
    > pause speed
    > next
    > 'go ahead and end so as not to
    > 'keep trying and hurt something
    >
    > end
    >
    >
    > twitches and 2003AN IC gets hot
    > p0--7--blue
    > p1--6--yellow
    > p2--5--brown
    > p3--4--red
    > 3
    > 2
    > 1
    > V--black-white
    >
    > twitches and 2003AN IC gets hot
    > p0--7--blue
    > p1--6--yellow
    > p3--5--brown
    > p2--4--red
    > 3
    > 2
    > 1
    > V--black-white
    >
    > twitches and 2003AN IC gets hot
    > p0--7--blue
    > p2--6--yellow
    > p1--5--brown
    > p3--4--red
    > 3
    > 2
    > 1
    > V--black-white
    >
    >
    Original Message
    > From: "Dave Mucha" <davemucha@j...>
    > To: <basicstamps@y...>
    > Sent: Thursday, November 28, 2002 10:40 AM
    > Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: stepper motors
    >
    >
    > > <snip>
    > >
    > > The cogging you describe is either that the motor is way under
    > > powered, ie: feeding a 3.5 volt motor only 5 volts. It should
    be at
    > > least 5 times the motor nameplate voltage.
    > >
    > > or, the load it too great to allow it to start
    > >
    > > or, the ramp up speed it too great
    > >
    > > or, the motor it not wired correctly.
    > >
    > >
    > > since a 3.5 volt motor will turn with 3.5 volts and no load, a
    bench
    > > test is pretty easy.
    > >
    > > Since you stated 6 wires, you have a uni-polar stepper. these
    have 2
    > > sets of windings and each set can be tested with an ohm meter.
    The
    > > center tap of each circuit will be half the max for that
    circuit. If
    > > you check wire 1 and 2 and get 10 ohms, and 1 and 3 are 5 ohms, 2
    and
    > > 3 should be 5 ohms. 3 then is the center tap.
    > >
    > > Do the same for 4,5 and 6. the board connection diagram should
    list
    > > where the center taps go (power) and where the legs go. All you
    need
    > > to do is to switch one pair of windings.
    > >
    > > example : if 1 and 2 are legs and 3 is center/power
    > > and 4 and 5 are legs and 6 is center/power
    > > all you need to do is swap 4 and 5 to 5 and 4.
    > >
    > > For hobby purposes, you should be able to make low torque things
    move
    > > with running the motor at the nameplate voltages. One good test
    is
    > > to see if you can spin the thing by hand. ie: wheels spin freely.
    > > and you can get about as much torque as it takes to stop the
    motor by
    > > hand. the cogging will not damage anything, but it is annoying to
    > > listen to.
    > >
    > > hope this helps.
    > >
    > > one additional piece of data, most motor manufacturers put the
    > > voltage on the namplate that is used to calculate voltages. some,
    > > like Pacific Scientific list the proper running voltage. your
    higher
    > > voltage motors may be such units.
    > >
    > > You can run motors from 5 to 25 times the nameplate voltage, but
    are
    > > limited to nameplate amps. You really don't get the power from a
    > > stepper until you jack up the voltage. and when/if you looking
    doing
    > > any real power applications, look into bi-polar wiring of your
    motors
    > > and get away from using a resitor in the power line. the high
    > > voltages would need huge resistors and need to dump lots of heat.
    > >
    > > Dave
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > > > I am able to hook it up similarly to the motor that came with
    > > stampworks, but on the breadboard and run the following code. The
    > > motor does not rotate but I can feel it pulsing as if it would
    rotate
    > > if only i had the sequence correct.
    > > >
    > > > Any help would be appreciated. Also, if i'm a fool for even
    trying
    > > this please say so.
    > > >
    > > > I have the wires hooked to pins 0 - 5 on the stamp.
    > > > I also tried using outL and adjusting DirL and Coils
    accordingly to
    > > try to use that 5th wire and got
    > > > the same result - a pulsing motor with no rotation.
    > > >
    > > > '{$STAMP BS2}
    > > > Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils
    > > >
    > > > speed var word
    > > > times var word
    > > >
    > > > dirL = %1111
    > > > speed = 10
    > > >
    > > > main:
    > > >
    > > > for times = 1 to 25
    > > > coils = %1001
    > > > pause speed
    > > > coils = %1100
    > > > pause speed
    > > > coils = %0110
    > > > pause speed
    > > > coils = %0011
    > > > next
    > > > pause 200
    > > > goto main
    > > >
    > > >
    > > >
    > > > [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    > >
    > >
    > > To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
    > > basicstamps-unsubscribe@y...
    > > from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the
    Subject and
    > Body of the message will be ignored.
    > >
    > >
    > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
    > >
    > >
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2002-11-29 04:41
    It also helps to secure a pointer of some sort to the shaft so you can tell
    if its rotating, twitching or whatever. sometimes its hard to tell just
    watching the shaft or feeling it with a finger.

    *********

    > Why it overheats?
    > 5v at 3.5 ohms translates to about 1.4 amps. A ULN2003 is only designed to
    > handle about 500ma tops.
    > 12v at 3.5 ohms would be about 3.4 amps.
    > The 75ohm stepper that came with the NS1000 would be about 66ma, which is
    > less than the max for the ULN2003, so it would work OK.
    >
    > Normally you limit the max current that the stepper motor can handle,
    > otherwise it overheats and you risk burning out a coil.
    >
    > Small steppers can be driven with the ULN2003 but not the more powerful
    > ones.
    > You'll need more poewerful power transistors to handle the heavier stepper
    > motor.
    >
    > I think that maybe your speed value is set too fast.
    > The ULN2003 is getting overloaded and your power supply may be too weak
    for
    > the big stepper.
    > Thus you tend to get twitching.
    > Steppers typically run at less than 100 rpm. You can get some steppers to
    > run faster, but you have to carefully ramp up the speed from slow to fast.
    > But a fast running stepper has little or no torque at high rpms.
    > I'd probably start at 1/2 second steps and see what happens, having it
    turn
    > slow is easier to watch.
  • ArchiverArchiver Posts: 46,084
    edited 2002-11-29 13:26
    You must limit the power.

    I had made a mistake in an earlier post.

    Power output increases proportionally with supply voltage. Losses in
    the motor increase with the square of the voltage. At some point the
    motor just gets too hot.

    I think I wrote that speed increases as the square of voltage.

    Motor speed is dependant on how fast you can charge and discharge the
    coils. at some point, you cannot make the unit move any faster.
    Typically on PC based stepper controlles, 10kH is the best you do.
    Mostly because the PC timings. that's 10kH pulses, into a 200 step
    per rev motor. Smaller motors can spin faster than large ones.

    The point about loss of power at high speed is correct, but it goes
    to constant power. Output power is independant of speed.
    since the stepper will deliver constant power, you only get so much
    umph per minute regardless of speed. double the speed, and you halve
    the torque. At low speed that means X amount of torque at low
    rpm's. say you are delivering 25 oz/in at the shaft. at 1 rpm you
    could say you have 25/1. At high speed, say 50 RPM, you have 25/50
    so the motor is very weak.

    Stepper MOTORS are designed to run HOT, put you hand and pull it away
    hot. not sizzling. electronics are designed to run cool. it
    shouldn't be the other way around.

    and don't forget to calculate power consumption and watts. You may
    be surprised to find that you are running one of these puppies at 30
    watts or more. even the limiting resistor my be sized for 30-50
    watts. at that point, look into chopper drives and H-Bridges and get
    away from the uni-polar style.

    Dave



    --- In basicstamps@y..., "Earl Bollinger" <earlwbollinger@a...> wrote:
    > Why it overheats?
    > 5v at 3.5 ohms translates to about 1.4 amps. A ULN2003 is only
    designed to
    > handle about 500ma tops.
    > 12v at 3.5 ohms would be about 3.4 amps.
    > The 75ohm stepper that came with the NS1000 would be about 66ma,
    which is
    > less than the max for the ULN2003, so it would work OK.
    >
    > Normally you limit the max current that the stepper motor can
    handle,
    > otherwise it overheats and you risk burning out a coil.
    >
    > Small steppers can be driven with the ULN2003 but not the more
    powerful
    > ones.
    > You'll need more poewerful power transistors to handle the heavier
    stepper
    > motor.
    >
    > I think that maybe your speed value is set too fast.
    > The ULN2003 is getting overloaded and your power supply may be too
    weak for
    > the big stepper.
    > Thus you tend to get twitching.
    > Steppers typically run at less than 100 rpm. You can get some
    steppers to
    > run faster, but you have to carefully ramp up the speed from slow
    to fast.
    > But a fast running stepper has little or no torque at high rpms.
    > I'd probably start at 1/2 second steps and see what happens, having
    it turn
    > slow is easier to watch.
    >
    >
    >
    >
    Original Message
    > From: Matt Lorenz [noparse][[/noparse]mailto:mklorenz@c...]
    > Sent: Thursday, November 28, 2002 8:28 PM
    > To: basicstamps@y...
    > Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: stepper motors
    >
    >
    > Dave,
    >
    > I have taken your suggestions and found out
    > a good bit about the motor but still cannot make
    > it rotate.
    >
    > I have also read many of the websites people have suggested
    > and I do have a pretty good idea of the theory of how
    > these stepper motors work. What i really do not know is
    > how to tell if a certain driver (the one on the nx-1000) will drive
    > an arbitrary stepper motor I come up with. I think this might
    > boil down to a basic electronics question but i'm not certain.
    >
    > I stand corrected - it is 3v, 3.5ohm, 1.8step.
    >
    > I am connecting it to the 12V ouputs on the NX-1000.
    >
    > I have deduced the following from your suggested
    > ohm readings:
    >
    > blue leg
    > yellow leg
    > black common
    >
    > brown leg
    > red leg
    > white common
    >
    > I have no idea which is leg A and which is leg B.
    >
    > Firstly, I am curious to know why when I try to run
    > this motor does it overheat the 2003AN IC? I would
    > think that if i'm pumping 12V into a 3V motor it would
    > overheat the motor if anything. Also, the "known
    > good motor (the one that came with stampworks)" reads
    > at like 75+ ohms.
    >
    > This means the stampworks motor is running about 160mA
    > where this other motor is running say 3430mA which is
    > 7* tollerance according to the nx-1000 specs.
    >
    > Is it the lack of resistance the new motor has that
    > makes the IC get too hot and should I try adding
    > resistors to correct for this?
    >
    > I know the IC is still good because I keep switching
    > back to the "known good" motor and it still works. On
    > the IC I did fry whichever pin is connected to output
    > 1 on the 7-CH stepper motor driver, but I just moved
    > up to 4,5,6,7.
    >
    > At any rate, following is the code i'm running and
    > several different wiring configs i have tried, all
    > of which behave about the same. Also this is a
    > bench test with no load whatsoever on the motor.
    >
    > '{$STAMP BS2}
    > Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils
    >
    > speed var word
    > times var word
    >
    > dirA = %1111
    > speed = 20
    > main:
    >
    > for times = 1 to 25
    > coils = %1100
    > pause speed
    > coils = %0110
    > pause speed
    > coils = %0011
    > pause speed
    > coils = %1001
    > pause speed
    > next
    > 'go ahead and end so as not to
    > 'keep trying and hurt something
    >
    > end
    >
    >
    > twitches and 2003AN IC gets hot
    > p0--7--blue
    > p1--6--yellow
    > p2--5--brown
    > p3--4--red
    > 3
    > 2
    > 1
    > V--black-white
    >
    > twitches and 2003AN IC gets hot
    > p0--7--blue
    > p1--6--yellow
    > p3--5--brown
    > p2--4--red
    > 3
    > 2
    > 1
    > V--black-white
    >
    > twitches and 2003AN IC gets hot
    > p0--7--blue
    > p2--6--yellow
    > p1--5--brown
    > p3--4--red
    > 3
    > 2
    > 1
    > V--black-white
    >
    >
    Original Message
    > From: "Dave Mucha" <davemucha@j...>
    > To: <basicstamps@y...>
    > Sent: Thursday, November 28, 2002 10:40 AM
    > Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: stepper motors
    >
    >
    > > <snip>
    > >
    > > The cogging you describe is either that the motor is way under
    > > powered, ie: feeding a 3.5 volt motor only 5 volts. It should
    be at
    > > least 5 times the motor nameplate voltage.
    > >
    > > or, the load it too great to allow it to start
    > >
    > > or, the ramp up speed it too great
    > >
    > > or, the motor it not wired correctly.
    > >
    > >
    > > since a 3.5 volt motor will turn with 3.5 volts and no load, a
    bench
    > > test is pretty easy.
    > >
    > > Since you stated 6 wires, you have a uni-polar stepper. these
    have 2
    > > sets of windings and each set can be tested with an ohm meter.
    The
    > > center tap of each circuit will be half the max for that
    circuit. If
    > > you check wire 1 and 2 and get 10 ohms, and 1 and 3 are 5 ohms, 2
    and
    > > 3 should be 5 ohms. 3 then is the center tap.
    > >
    > > Do the same for 4,5 and 6. the board connection diagram should
    list
    > > where the center taps go (power) and where the legs go. All you
    need
    > > to do is to switch one pair of windings.
    > >
    > > example : if 1 and 2 are legs and 3 is center/power
    > > and 4 and 5 are legs and 6 is center/power
    > > all you need to do is swap 4 and 5 to 5 and 4.
    > >
    > > For hobby purposes, you should be able to make low torque things
    move
    > > with running the motor at the nameplate voltages. One good test
    is
    > > to see if you can spin the thing by hand. ie: wheels spin freely.
    > > and you can get about as much torque as it takes to stop the
    motor by
    > > hand. the cogging will not damage anything, but it is annoying to
    > > listen to.
    > >
    > > hope this helps.
    > >
    > > one additional piece of data, most motor manufacturers put the
    > > voltage on the namplate that is used to calculate voltages. some,
    > > like Pacific Scientific list the proper running voltage. your
    higher
    > > voltage motors may be such units.
    > >
    > > You can run motors from 5 to 25 times the nameplate voltage, but
    are
    > > limited to nameplate amps. You really don't get the power from a
    > > stepper until you jack up the voltage. and when/if you looking
    doing
    > > any real power applications, look into bi-polar wiring of your
    motors
    > > and get away from using a resitor in the power line. the high
    > > voltages would need huge resistors and need to dump lots of heat.
    > >
    > > Dave
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > > > I am able to hook it up similarly to the motor that came with
    > > stampworks, but on the breadboard and run the following code. The
    > > motor does not rotate but I can feel it pulsing as if it would
    rotate
    > > if only i had the sequence correct.
    > > >
    > > > Any help would be appreciated. Also, if i'm a fool for even
    trying
    > > this please say so.
    > > >
    > > > I have the wires hooked to pins 0 - 5 on the stamp.
    > > > I also tried using outL and adjusting DirL and Coils
    accordingly to
    > > try to use that 5th wire and got
    > > > the same result - a pulsing motor with no rotation.
    > > >
    > > > '{$STAMP BS2}
    > > > Coils VAR OutA 'output to stepper coils
    > > >
    > > > speed var word
    > > > times var word
    > > >
    > > > dirL = %1111
    > > > speed = 10
    > > >
    > > > main:
    > > >
    > > > for times = 1 to 25
    > > > coils = %1001
    > > > pause speed
    > > > coils = %1100
    > > > pause speed
    > > > coils = %0110
    > > > pause speed
    > > > coils = %0011
    > > > next
    > > > pause 200
    > > > goto main
    > > >
    > > >
    > > >
    > > > [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    > >
    > >
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