Sorry
Archiver
Posts: 46,084
Alex,
I don't know the IS1U621, I do know the IS1U60's however. They are very
finicky. You need to use the 47uf cap and 47 ohm resistor low-pass filter
on the power line to the chip or it will false trigger. I recommend the
Panasonic 4602 or 4612 units (same pinout) but they don't need the low-pass
filter, and they're much cheaper. Digikey sells them.
The Radio Shack LEDs are fine, but you still didn't tell me if you hood
them. If you don't then I guarantee that your IS1U6XX detectors will
not work
correctly. You also didn't measure the frequency of the 555, a scope
will do
this, the period of the square-wave should be about 26us.
You didn't answer my questions, but you have told me enough that I
think I
know what your problems are. You will need to do the following or they won't
work: (This is after you verify that your 555 is set to about 38KHz,
all bets
are off if it isn't close to that value.)
1) Use 1K resistors for the IR LEDs
2) Cover the LEDs with 3/8 inch black heat-shrink tubing leaving only
the very tip of
the LED peeking out of the tubing.
3) Mount the LEDs so that the back of them are behind the Sharp IR module
4) Put a 47uf electrolytic cap from +5 to ground right next to the Sharp
IR module.
5) Connect +5V to the Sharp IR module through a 47 ohm resistor (47uf
cap on IR side of
the resistor)
6) Paint the Sharp IR module plastic flat black model paint everywhere
but the dome part
that is the lens. I mean everywhere! I am assuming these have the
slightly green case.
If you were using the Panasonic units, you would only need to do items
1 and 2.
If you do all of the above, it should all work pretty well, if you don't
do all of the
above, it probably won't work at all. I don't like the Sharp IS1U60's
for IR proximity
detection. They are gangbusters for IR communication, but too sensitive
for this
application IMO.
good luck,
DLC
Alex Burke wrote:
>
> Sorry about that, I am new to this. I am using the Sharp IS1U621/IS1U621L.
> And am using Radio Shack Blue (don't know if it matters, because all my
> others are red) IR Led's. About the 555 frequency, I am not sure, I had one
> of my dads friends come over and take a look at my robot (he had done this
> stuff for ever) and he thought that it might be working correctly, and I
> would just have to adjust the POT in it, but he measured out every thing,
> and it was correct. I have been working on this for about a year, but just
> now gathered all of my parts to finally put all the IR detectors on! With as
> little as I know about IR detection, I am having to turn for some help. I AM
> STUCK!!!! But I think that My problem my be with flooding the IR's, how
> could I fix that? I have it positioned the same way the picture shows in the
> BOE book? Well, if I did not confuse you this time, I just wondered if you
> could help me here. Alex
>
> >From: <dlc@v...>
> >To: <ajb_robotics@h...>
> >Subject: Re: What I have done, and thanks.
> >Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 21:41:50 GMT
> >
> > > Dennis,
> > >
> > > Thanks for helping me out here with the IRPD, but I had already
> >the
> > > 555 to the stamp, I just do not now what I am doing wrong.
> > > You had asked me what I had done. Well, not much right now, I took the
> >board
> > > of edu. and with a basic stamp 2SX made it go forward, and every once in
> >a
> > > while the IRPD will work, but hardly ever. I have checked it out with a
> > > scope and every thing. I am getting adequate power, no missing parts,
> >(at
> >
> > You still didn't tell me these details, we won't know where to go until
> >we
> >know where you have been.
> >
> >What IR detector are you using?
> >What IR LED are you using?
> >How do you know your 555 frequency is correct? (period = about 26us on
> >scope)
> >Are you hooding your IR LED?
> >Is your IR LED in front of or behind your IR detector?
> >What resistor value are you using to power your IR LED?
> >Is your BOE resetting constantly? (use debug statement to tell)
> >
> > > least I hope not) LOL and have all the parts that it called for( I did
> >not
> > > have to rig any thing). I have one question, if my IR Led's, and my
> > > receivers are to close together will it affect it? Because mine are real
> >
> > Yes, you can be flooding your IR detector if your LED is not hooded and
> >is in the wrong place. The output of the IR detector is high, until it
> >detects
> >something, then it goes low. If your output is always low, you are
> >flooding
> >the IR detector.
> >
> > > close, but are not touching. Well I appreciate your help, this is my
> >first
> > > robot that I have done. (not my first micro controller though, I had the
> >SX
> > > board first but it was to complicated to program in C so I was forced to
> >go
> > > with a Stamp) Just to let you know though, I am not even I high school
> >yet,
> > > but know a lot about electronics, I have been working with them for
> >about 5
> > > years. Just thought you might like to know that, so that way you do not
> > > think I am "off" on some of these things. Thanks again, Alex
> >
> >DLC
> >
> >
> >
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
--
Dennis Clark http://www.verinet.com/~dlc
dlc@v...
I don't know the IS1U621, I do know the IS1U60's however. They are very
finicky. You need to use the 47uf cap and 47 ohm resistor low-pass filter
on the power line to the chip or it will false trigger. I recommend the
Panasonic 4602 or 4612 units (same pinout) but they don't need the low-pass
filter, and they're much cheaper. Digikey sells them.
The Radio Shack LEDs are fine, but you still didn't tell me if you hood
them. If you don't then I guarantee that your IS1U6XX detectors will
not work
correctly. You also didn't measure the frequency of the 555, a scope
will do
this, the period of the square-wave should be about 26us.
You didn't answer my questions, but you have told me enough that I
think I
know what your problems are. You will need to do the following or they won't
work: (This is after you verify that your 555 is set to about 38KHz,
all bets
are off if it isn't close to that value.)
1) Use 1K resistors for the IR LEDs
2) Cover the LEDs with 3/8 inch black heat-shrink tubing leaving only
the very tip of
the LED peeking out of the tubing.
3) Mount the LEDs so that the back of them are behind the Sharp IR module
4) Put a 47uf electrolytic cap from +5 to ground right next to the Sharp
IR module.
5) Connect +5V to the Sharp IR module through a 47 ohm resistor (47uf
cap on IR side of
the resistor)
6) Paint the Sharp IR module plastic flat black model paint everywhere
but the dome part
that is the lens. I mean everywhere! I am assuming these have the
slightly green case.
If you were using the Panasonic units, you would only need to do items
1 and 2.
If you do all of the above, it should all work pretty well, if you don't
do all of the
above, it probably won't work at all. I don't like the Sharp IS1U60's
for IR proximity
detection. They are gangbusters for IR communication, but too sensitive
for this
application IMO.
good luck,
DLC
Alex Burke wrote:
>
> Sorry about that, I am new to this. I am using the Sharp IS1U621/IS1U621L.
> And am using Radio Shack Blue (don't know if it matters, because all my
> others are red) IR Led's. About the 555 frequency, I am not sure, I had one
> of my dads friends come over and take a look at my robot (he had done this
> stuff for ever) and he thought that it might be working correctly, and I
> would just have to adjust the POT in it, but he measured out every thing,
> and it was correct. I have been working on this for about a year, but just
> now gathered all of my parts to finally put all the IR detectors on! With as
> little as I know about IR detection, I am having to turn for some help. I AM
> STUCK!!!! But I think that My problem my be with flooding the IR's, how
> could I fix that? I have it positioned the same way the picture shows in the
> BOE book? Well, if I did not confuse you this time, I just wondered if you
> could help me here. Alex
>
> >From: <dlc@v...>
> >To: <ajb_robotics@h...>
> >Subject: Re: What I have done, and thanks.
> >Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 21:41:50 GMT
> >
> > > Dennis,
> > >
> > > Thanks for helping me out here with the IRPD, but I had already
> >the
> > > 555 to the stamp, I just do not now what I am doing wrong.
> > > You had asked me what I had done. Well, not much right now, I took the
> >board
> > > of edu. and with a basic stamp 2SX made it go forward, and every once in
> >a
> > > while the IRPD will work, but hardly ever. I have checked it out with a
> > > scope and every thing. I am getting adequate power, no missing parts,
> >(at
> >
> > You still didn't tell me these details, we won't know where to go until
> >we
> >know where you have been.
> >
> >What IR detector are you using?
> >What IR LED are you using?
> >How do you know your 555 frequency is correct? (period = about 26us on
> >scope)
> >Are you hooding your IR LED?
> >Is your IR LED in front of or behind your IR detector?
> >What resistor value are you using to power your IR LED?
> >Is your BOE resetting constantly? (use debug statement to tell)
> >
> > > least I hope not) LOL and have all the parts that it called for( I did
> >not
> > > have to rig any thing). I have one question, if my IR Led's, and my
> > > receivers are to close together will it affect it? Because mine are real
> >
> > Yes, you can be flooding your IR detector if your LED is not hooded and
> >is in the wrong place. The output of the IR detector is high, until it
> >detects
> >something, then it goes low. If your output is always low, you are
> >flooding
> >the IR detector.
> >
> > > close, but are not touching. Well I appreciate your help, this is my
> >first
> > > robot that I have done. (not my first micro controller though, I had the
> >SX
> > > board first but it was to complicated to program in C so I was forced to
> >go
> > > with a Stamp) Just to let you know though, I am not even I high school
> >yet,
> > > but know a lot about electronics, I have been working with them for
> >about 5
> > > years. Just thought you might like to know that, so that way you do not
> > > think I am "off" on some of these things. Thanks again, Alex
> >
> >DLC
> >
> >
> >
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
--
Dennis Clark http://www.verinet.com/~dlc
dlc@v...
Comments
saturated with any strong sun light comming into the room. Take a regular
flash light and point it right at the detector, and it pings like there is
no tomorrow.
Use the Panasonic ones.
Pete Miles
petem@w...
>
> From: Dennis Clark[noparse]/noparse]SMTP:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=LMpynd5wylaqUHYXFTzRyHjqocn_8xONHk4sj36OKp9vzGSG__j427xa8WfCZCq3_IIfH4AH]dlc@v...[/url
> Reply To: basicstamps@egroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2000 4:38 PM
> To: Alex@v...; stamps
> Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: Sorry
>
> Alex,
>
> I don't know the IS1U621, I do know the IS1U60's however. They are very
> finicky. You need to use the 47uf cap and 47 ohm resistor low-pass filter
> on the power line to the chip or it will false trigger. I recommend the
> Panasonic 4602 or 4612 units (same pinout) but they don't need the
> low-pass
> filter, and they're much cheaper. Digikey sells them.
> The Radio Shack LEDs are fine, but you still didn't tell me if you hood
> them. If you don't then I guarantee that your IS1U6XX detectors will
> not work
> correctly. You also didn't measure the frequency of the 555, a scope
> will do
> this, the period of the square-wave should be about 26us.
> You didn't answer my questions, but you have told me enough that I
> think I
> know what your problems are. You will need to do the following or they
> won't
> work: (This is after you verify that your 555 is set to about 38KHz,
> all bets
> are off if it isn't close to that value.)
>
> 1) Use 1K resistors for the IR LEDs
> 2) Cover the LEDs with 3/8 inch black heat-shrink tubing leaving only
> the very tip of
> the LED peeking out of the tubing.
> 3) Mount the LEDs so that the back of them are behind the Sharp IR module
> 4) Put a 47uf electrolytic cap from +5 to ground right next to the Sharp
> IR module.
> 5) Connect +5V to the Sharp IR module through a 47 ohm resistor (47uf
> cap on IR side of
> the resistor)
> 6) Paint the Sharp IR module plastic flat black model paint everywhere
> but the dome part
> that is the lens. I mean everywhere! I am assuming these have the
> slightly green case.
>
> If you were using the Panasonic units, you would only need to do items
> 1 and 2.
>
> If you do all of the above, it should all work pretty well, if you don't
> do all of the
> above, it probably won't work at all. I don't like the Sharp IS1U60's
> for IR proximity
> detection. They are gangbusters for IR communication, but too sensitive
> for this
> application IMO.
>
> good luck,
> DLC
>
> Alex Burke wrote:
> >
> > Sorry about that, I am new to this. I am using the Sharp
> IS1U621/IS1U621L.
> > And am using Radio Shack Blue (don't know if it matters, because all my
> > others are red) IR Led's. About the 555 frequency, I am not sure, I had
> one
> > of my dads friends come over and take a look at my robot (he had done
> this
> > stuff for ever) and he thought that it might be working correctly, and I
> > would just have to adjust the POT in it, but he measured out every
> thing,
> > and it was correct. I have been working on this for about a year, but
> just
> > now gathered all of my parts to finally put all the IR detectors on!
> With as
> > little as I know about IR detection, I am having to turn for some help.
> I AM
> > STUCK!!!! But I think that My problem my be with flooding the IR's, how
> > could I fix that? I have it positioned the same way the picture shows in
> the
> > BOE book? Well, if I did not confuse you this time, I just wondered if
> you
> > could help me here. Alex
> >
> > >From: <dlc@v...>
> > >To: <ajb_robotics@h...>
> > >Subject: Re: What I have done, and thanks.
> > >Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 21:41:50 GMT
> > >
> > > > Dennis,
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for helping me out here with the IRPD, but I had
> already
> > >the
> > > > 555 to the stamp, I just do not now what I am doing wrong.
> > > > You had asked me what I had done. Well, not much right now, I took
> the
> > >board
> > > > of edu. and with a basic stamp 2SX made it go forward, and every
> once in
> > >a
> > > > while the IRPD will work, but hardly ever. I have checked it out
> with a
> > > > scope and every thing. I am getting adequate power, no missing
> parts,
> > >(at
> > >
> > > You still didn't tell me these details, we won't know where to go
> until
> > >we
> > >know where you have been.
> > >
> > >What IR detector are you using?
> > >What IR LED are you using?
> > >How do you know your 555 frequency is correct? (period = about 26us on
> > >scope)
> > >Are you hooding your IR LED?
> > >Is your IR LED in front of or behind your IR detector?
> > >What resistor value are you using to power your IR LED?
> > >Is your BOE resetting constantly? (use debug statement to tell)
> > >
> > > > least I hope not) LOL and have all the parts that it called for( I
> did
> > >not
> > > > have to rig any thing). I have one question, if my IR Led's, and my
> > > > receivers are to close together will it affect it? Because mine are
> real
> > >
> > > Yes, you can be flooding your IR detector if your LED is not hooded
> and
> > >is in the wrong place. The output of the IR detector is high, until it
> > >detects
> > >something, then it goes low. If your output is always low, you are
> > >flooding
> > >the IR detector.
> > >
> > > > close, but are not touching. Well I appreciate your help, this is my
> > >first
> > > > robot that I have done. (not my first micro controller though, I had
> the
> > >SX
> > > > board first but it was to complicated to program in C so I was
> forced to
> > >go
> > > > with a Stamp) Just to let you know though, I am not even I high
> school
> > >yet,
> > > > but know a lot about electronics, I have been working with them for
> > >about 5
> > > > years. Just thought you might like to know that, so that way you do
> not
> > > > think I am "off" on some of these things. Thanks again, Alex
> > >
> > >DLC
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > ______________________________________________________
> > Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
> --
>
> Dennis Clark http://www.verinet.com/~dlc
> dlc@v...
>
>
>
>
I think I sent an email which accidentally had a large attachment. I'm
really & truly very sorry. Especially to you Mr. Hill. Your pictures are
really neat, however, I didn't mean to post them to the group.
David Fixemer
On Thu, 1 Feb 2001, Production Technology, L.L.C. wrote:
> Stampers,
>
> I think I sent an email which accidentally had a large attachment. I'm
> really & truly very sorry. Especially to you Mr. Hill. Your pictures are
> really neat, however, I didn't mean to post them to the group.
Ah, it was only 210k... I didn't mind a bit but then I'm not on a
dialup.
I did enjoy seeing the images. I'm curious how much that 1.8x6 foot
display costs?
--- Jay
+
+
| Jay Nugent jjn@n... (734)971-1076 (734)971-4529/Fax |
| Nugent Telecommunications [noparse][[/noparse]www.nuge.com] (734)649-0850/Cell |
| Internet Consulting/Linux SysAdmin/Engineering & Design/ISP Reseller |
| ISP Monitoring [noparse][[/noparse]www.ispmonitor.net] ISP & Modem Performance Monitoring |
| Web-Pegasus [noparse][[/noparse]www.webpegasus.com] Web Hosting/DNS Hosting/Shell Accts|
| LinuxNIC, Inc. [noparse][[/noparse]www.linuxnic.net] Registrar of the .linux TLD |
+
+
2:00pm up 266 days, 21:58, 7 users, load average: 0.03, 0.03, 0.00
Haven't really got a fixed price for the project at the moment,
but to give you an idea,
All UK Pounds sterling, 1 offs - with quantity/interest this can be
reduced.(you can use 1/2/3/ or 4 LED per dot with my design/PCB), It
depends on viewing conditions(Sunlight/distance/angle/etc)
PCB - £30
MAX7219 - £6
Misu - £1
LEDs - £0.05 upwards(depends on colour & intensity) x 256
The Photoes are all from the 6ft x 1.8ft display with 4200mcd Yellow
LEDs(very very Bright) and contained 14 PCB's with 256 LEDS in each
Hope this solves your curiousity?
Chris
--- In basicstamps@y..., Jay Nugent <jjn@n...> wrote:
> Greetings,
>
> On Thu, 1 Feb 2001, Production Technology, L.L.C. wrote:
>
> > Stampers,
> >
> > I think I sent an email which accidentally had a large
attachment. I'm
> > really & truly very sorry. Especially to you Mr. Hill. Your
pictures are
> > really neat, however, I didn't mean to post them to the group.
>
> Ah, it was only 210k... I didn't mind a bit but then I'm not
on a
> dialup.
>
> I did enjoy seeing the images. I'm curious how much that 1.8x6
foot
> display costs?
>
> --- Jay
>
> +
+
> | Jay Nugent jjn@n... (734)971-1076 (734)971-
4529/Fax |
> | Nugent Telecommunications [noparse][[/noparse]www.nuge.com] (734)649-
0850/Cell |
> | Internet Consulting/Linux SysAdmin/Engineering & Design/ISP
Reseller |
> | ISP Monitoring [noparse][[/noparse]www.ispmonitor.net] ISP & Modem Performance
Monitoring |
> | Web-Pegasus [noparse][[/noparse]www.webpegasus.com] Web Hosting/DNS Hosting/Shell
Accts|
> | LinuxNIC, Inc. [noparse][[/noparse]www.linuxnic.net] Registrar of the .linux
TLD |
> +
+
> 2:00pm up 266 days, 21:58, 7 users, load average: 0.03, 0.03,
0.00
Haven't really got a fixed price for the project at the moment,
but to give you an idea,
All UK Pounds sterling, 1 offs - with quantity/interest this can be
reduced.(you can use 1/2/3/ or 4 LED per dot with my design/PCB), It
depends on viewing conditions(Sunlight/distance/angle/etc)
PCB - £30
MAX7219 - £6
Misu - £1
LEDs - £0.05 upwards(depends on colour & intensity) x 256
The Photoes are all from the 6ft x 1.8ft display with 4200mcd Yellow
LEDs(very very Bright) and contained 14 PCB's with 256 LEDS in each
Hope this solves your curiousity?
Chris
--- In basicstamps@y..., Jay Nugent <jjn@n...> wrote:
> Greetings,
>
> On Thu, 1 Feb 2001, Production Technology, L.L.C. wrote:
>
> > Stampers,
> >
> > I think I sent an email which accidentally had a large
attachment. I'm
> > really & truly very sorry. Especially to you Mr. Hill. Your
pictures are
> > really neat, however, I didn't mean to post them to the group.
>
> Ah, it was only 210k... I didn't mind a bit but then I'm not
on a
> dialup.
>
> I did enjoy seeing the images. I'm curious how much that 1.8x6
foot
> display costs?
>
> --- Jay
>
> +
+
> | Jay Nugent jjn@n... (734)971-1076 (734)971-
4529/Fax |
> | Nugent Telecommunications [noparse][[/noparse]www.nuge.com] (734)649-
0850/Cell |
> | Internet Consulting/Linux SysAdmin/Engineering & Design/ISP
Reseller |
> | ISP Monitoring [noparse][[/noparse]www.ispmonitor.net] ISP & Modem Performance
Monitoring |
> | Web-Pegasus [noparse][[/noparse]www.webpegasus.com] Web Hosting/DNS Hosting/Shell
Accts|
> | LinuxNIC, Inc. [noparse][[/noparse]www.linuxnic.net] Registrar of the .linux
TLD |
> +
+
> 2:00pm up 266 days, 21:58, 7 users, load average: 0.03, 0.03,
0.00
-- Mitch
Original Message
From: Christopher_Hill@M... [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=xyDQPyKQCbpO2vtQAzQUTJtaPpO2fd48vgVkDa4PdZmBIEyAKdy5cchut_Bttk4REyvQlX898bQ-VQO3PtxKJQ-UGQ]Christopher_Hill@M...[/url
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2001 4:26 AM
To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: SORRY
Hi Jay
Haven't really got a fixed price for the project at the moment,
but to give you an idea,
All UK Pounds sterling, 1 offs - with quantity/interest this can be
reduced.(you can use 1/2/3/ or 4 LED per dot with my design/PCB), It
depends on viewing conditions(Sunlight/distance/angle/etc)
PCB - £30
MAX7219 - £6
Misu - £1
LEDs - £0.05 upwards(depends on colour & intensity) x 256
The Photoes are all from the 6ft x 1.8ft display with 4200mcd Yellow
LEDs(very very Bright) and contained 14 PCB's with 256 LEDS in each
Hope this solves your curiousity?
Chris
--- In basicstamps@y..., Jay Nugent <jjn@n...> wrote:
> Greetings,
>
> On Thu, 1 Feb 2001, Production Technology, L.L.C. wrote:
>
> > Stampers,
> >
> > I think I sent an email which accidentally had a large
attachment. I'm
> > really & truly very sorry. Especially to you Mr. Hill. Your
pictures are
> > really neat, however, I didn't mean to post them to the group.
>
> Ah, it was only 210k... I didn't mind a bit but then I'm not
on a
> dialup.
>
> I did enjoy seeing the images. I'm curious how much that 1.8x6
foot
> display costs?
>
> --- Jay
>
> +
+
> | Jay Nugent jjn@n... (734)971-1076 (734)971-
4529/Fax |
> | Nugent Telecommunications [noparse][[/noparse]www.nuge.com] (734)649-
0850/Cell |
> | Internet Consulting/Linux SysAdmin/Engineering & Design/ISP
Reseller |
> | ISP Monitoring [noparse][[/noparse]www.ispmonitor.net] ISP & Modem Performance
Monitoring |
> | Web-Pegasus [noparse][[/noparse]www.webpegasus.com] Web Hosting/DNS Hosting/Shell
Accts|
> | LinuxNIC, Inc. [noparse][[/noparse]www.linuxnic.net] Registrar of the .linux
TLD |
> +
+
> 2:00pm up 266 days, 21:58, 7 users, load average: 0.03, 0.03,
0.00
how bad my connection is. Sorry. So much for the advantages of T1...
Rich
Not sure how that happend (didn't click twice)
O well
- Ben