Board of Education
Archiver
Posts: 46,084
Hi,
I am making a little project and I want to make it without the board of
education, so I etched a circuit board, but I don't know if I have the
circuit correct.
I got a socket for the bs2
I got a 5 volt regulator
and a 9 volt battery connected to the regulator
and according to the datasheet of the bs2
i just connect the VSS of the BS2 to the VSS of the regulator
and the and then VDD of the bs2 to the VOUT of the regulator
and that should be it correct?
do I need anything else?
Also, I have soldered a lot of stuff before, but I need to know if there is
a secret to soldering a socket down, I have a difficult time getting the
solder under the socket to the pins. and also after Hours of stress and
frustration I got it connected, then put the bs2 in the socket and when I
took the bs2 out, all of the solder came off the board ARGH!!! is there
something I am doing wrong, different type of solder/iron, i have 60/40
solder and a 14 watt soldering iron.
I tried solering from the other side, but the solder won't go down the hole.
Anyways if anyone could help that would be great
Thanks
Tyson Stephen
I am making a little project and I want to make it without the board of
education, so I etched a circuit board, but I don't know if I have the
circuit correct.
I got a socket for the bs2
I got a 5 volt regulator
and a 9 volt battery connected to the regulator
and according to the datasheet of the bs2
i just connect the VSS of the BS2 to the VSS of the regulator
and the and then VDD of the bs2 to the VOUT of the regulator
and that should be it correct?
do I need anything else?
Also, I have soldered a lot of stuff before, but I need to know if there is
a secret to soldering a socket down, I have a difficult time getting the
solder under the socket to the pins. and also after Hours of stress and
frustration I got it connected, then put the bs2 in the socket and when I
took the bs2 out, all of the solder came off the board ARGH!!! is there
something I am doing wrong, different type of solder/iron, i have 60/40
solder and a 14 watt soldering iron.
I tried solering from the other side, but the solder won't go down the hole.
Anyways if anyone could help that would be great
Thanks
Tyson Stephen
Comments
Well, let me see if I can give you some pointers:
1) Vss is ground.
2) Vdd should go to the output of your 5V regulator.
3) Leave the Vin terminal of the stamp disconnected if you are using an
external regulator.
4) I can't quite figure what you are saying about the socket and the solder.
When you make a single sided board, you have a foil side (the side with the
copper) and a component side (the side with the parts). You should have
holes drilled for the socket. I use a small PC board drill, although you can
get away with the smallest Dremel drill bit that Dremel sells in their drill
bit kit at Walmart, etc.
The trick to drilling the holes is to get a piece of Perf board (or Vector
board or whatever you want to call it) from Radio Shack and clamp it to your
PCB after etching. Then use it as a drill guide to get your .1" centers
exactly right.
Next you put the socket on the component side and the pins should stick
through the holes on the foil side. I usually just bend the 2 corner pins
down but I know of some people who temporarily tape the socket down and then
solder it. Either way, solder 2 corners first. The solder should make a nice
filet (like a little convex hill) from the copper land to the tip of the
pin.
If you solder is not sticking, here are some things to think about.
a) Your PCB must be clean of resist and other contaminant.
b) Use 60/40 rosin core solder
c) Heat the work not the solder. Heat up the pin and the copper land and let
it melt the solder. This takes a little practice because too much heat will
lift the copper land off the board.
I can't visualize how you are soldering the socket under the body of the
socket. I also can't visualize what you mean about the holes. The board
should look like this:
socket
board
pin + solder
The body of the socket should be flush with the board. No solder needs to
flow into the holes.
Oh, if you've made a 2 sided board (which is much more difficult) then you
need a via to connect one side to the other, not socket pins. Real boards
use plated-through holes, but homebrewers just solder a wire to both sides.
You can also solder resistors, diodes, and similar components on both sides
to connect the two sides. You typically can't solder ICs, transistors,
crystals, etc. on both sides because of the shape of the part.
Regards,
Al Williams
AWC
*Solderless Stamp prototyping at http://www.al-williams.com/awce
>
Original Message
> From: Tyson Stephen [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=hCeOW--kDgUkorxYLfuydmis61XdAsnLmTmOynXTypfiZ48btXsastmRvRD5K4f9_3BX1-DGq0XLqOFqnA]tysonstephen@h...[/url
> Sent: Monday, April 10, 2000 3:55 PM
> To: basicstamps@egroups.com
> Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Board of Education
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I am making a little project and I want to make it without the board of
> education, so I etched a circuit board, but I don't know if I have the
> circuit correct.
>
> I got a socket for the bs2
> I got a 5 volt regulator
> and a 9 volt battery connected to the regulator
>
> and according to the datasheet of the bs2
>
> i just connect the VSS of the BS2 to the VSS of the regulator
> and the and then VDD of the bs2 to the VOUT of the regulator
>
> and that should be it correct?
> do I need anything else?
>
> Also, I have soldered a lot of stuff before, but I need to know
> if there is
> a secret to soldering a socket down, I have a difficult time getting the
> solder under the socket to the pins. and also after Hours of stress and
> frustration I got it connected, then put the bs2 in the socket and when I
> took the bs2 out, all of the solder came off the board ARGH!!! is there
> something I am doing wrong, different type of solder/iron, i have 60/40
> solder and a 14 watt soldering iron.
>
> I tried solering from the other side, but the solder won't go
> down the hole.
>
> Anyways if anyone could help that would be great
>
> Thanks
> Tyson Stephen
>
>
>
You are showing all of the usual beginners problems with circuits and
PC boards. Fear not, many have made them.
Item one. Design your board so that as much as possible all the traces
are on one side - ON THE BOTTOM SIDE.
If you find you really need to put a trace on the topside of the board,
you can make this trace by running a jumper wire, make sure to allow for
pads to solder the wire jumper to.
Make sure your board is CLEAN. Etchant, etch resist, etc, create grunge
that you will need to polish off so the solder will stick well.
Item two. Some terminology.
Vss, typically Ground, on any single voltage source, always ground. Ground
is not a signal, its a referance, all things reference ground.
Battery (-) = Ground
Vss = Ground
Every chip has a Vss/Ground pin, this is what it connects to
No exceptions. (For single source, positive voltage applications)
Vin = battery (+)
Put an electrolytic cap on the Vin side of any regulator you use, they
work better that way. A good average size is 100uf for your low current
usage. Run any electric motors from this side of the regulator, don't run
motors from the +5V (Vdd) line or you can glitch the processor.
Vdd, Vout, +5V, whatever you call it.
This is the other side of your voltage regulator (the +5V side). Depending
on what you are doing, you may want to put an electrolytic cap (10+uf) on
this side too. Have at least 1 .1uf cap as a bypass cap for every chip
on
your +5V line - this is a rule of thumb and fits into the "more or less"
catagory for hobbyist boards. Put this .1uf near that chip (including the
regulator chip).
These basics will allow most hobby boards to work just fine. When you
start
doing unusual things, you will have to use more elaborate designs.
have fun,
DLC
Tyson Stephen wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I am making a little project and I want to make it without the board of
> education, so I etched a circuit board, but I don't know if I have the
> circuit correct.
>
> I got a socket for the bs2
> I got a 5 volt regulator
> and a 9 volt battery connected to the regulator
>
> and according to the datasheet of the bs2
>
> i just connect the VSS of the BS2 to the VSS of the regulator
> and the and then VDD of the bs2 to the VOUT of the regulator
>
> and that should be it correct?
> do I need anything else?
>
> Also, I have soldered a lot of stuff before, but I need to know if there is
> a secret to soldering a socket down, I have a difficult time getting the
> solder under the socket to the pins. and also after Hours of stress and
> frustration I got it connected, then put the bs2 in the socket and when I
> took the bs2 out, all of the solder came off the board ARGH!!! is there
> something I am doing wrong, different type of solder/iron, i have 60/40
> solder and a 14 watt soldering iron.
>
> I tried solering from the other side, but the solder won't go down the hole.
>
> Anyways if anyone could help that would be great
>
> Thanks
> Tyson Stephen
--
Dennis Clark http://www.verinet.com/~dlc
dlc@v...
Check BOE·prices from some of the Canadian dealers as they are cheaper than in the US (sometimes).
Matthew
Original Message
From: JOHN & LISA
To: basicstamps@egroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 3:06 PM
Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] board of education
I require help to find a board of education, I live and work in cyprus, i've been trying to order a BoE over the internet, but unless you have a visa card and I dont (dont want one) it seems I cant order one from the internet. I tryed making my own programmer and had no luck at all, maybe somebody can help with this to.
please, please somebody help, my robots just dying to be programmed.
please, please somebody help, my robots just dying to be programmed.
The programmer is easy.· See page 200 in the stamp manual (v 1.9) for a pinout.· You can d/l the manual directly from parallax's site; it's in pdf form.
The BS 2 is programmed serially via free software provided by Parallax.· Pins 2,3,4,5 from the serial cable are hooked up to pins 1,2,3,4 of the stamp.· You can also short pins 6 and 7 of the serial cable so the software can autodetect the port to which the stamp is attatched to, but this is optional.· There are probably a million and one slick ways to build the programmer, but I did mine quick and dirty.· Just cut a standard serial cable, pulled out and stripped the wires.· Used a multimeter to figure out which wire corresponded to which pin on the cable.· You'll also need to supply power to the stamp.· I used a 6v DC transformer (wall wart).· The positive lead goes into pin 24; ground goes into pin 23.· I then put the appropriate wires into a breadboard along with the stamp and fired up the software.· It worked beautifully.·
Generally, I never get things right the first time, so if I can do, it anyone can.
Here is the URL for the d/l's I mentioned:
http://www.parallaxinc.com/html_files/downloads/download.htm
--Craig
·
·
Original Message
From: JOHN & LISA [noparse][[/noparse]mailto:johnlisa@cytanet.com.cy]
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 6:06 PM
To: basicstamps@egroups.com
Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] board of education
please, please somebody help, my robots just dying to be programmed.
David Fixemer
Fixemerd@Navix.net
Original Message
From: JOHN & LISA [noparse]/noparse][url=mailto:johnlisa@cytanet.com.cy]mailto:johnlisa@cytanet.com.cy[/url
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 5:06 PM
To: basicstamps@egroups.com
Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] board of education
I require help to find a board of education, I live and work in cyprus, i've been trying to order a BoE over the internet, but unless you have a visa card and I dont (dont want one) it seems I cant order one from the internet. I tryed making my own programmer and had no luck at all, maybe somebody can help with this to.
please, please somebody help, my robots just dying to be programmed.
Original Message
From: Production Technology, Inc.
To: 'johnlisa@cytanet.com.cy'
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 1:35 PM
Subject: RE: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] board of education
I noticed that someone was helping you.· I was wondering how it was going, or if you would like some schematics faxed to your attention?
David Fixemer
Fixemerd@Navix.net
Original Message
From: JOHN & LISA [noparse]/noparse][url=mailto:johnlisa@cytanet.com.cy]mailto:johnlisa@cytanet.com.cy[/url
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 5:06 PM
To: basicstamps@egroups.com
Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] board of education
I require help to find a board of education, I live and work in cyprus, i've been trying to order a BoE over the internet, but unless you have a visa card and I dont (dont want one) it seems I cant order one from the internet. I tryed making my own programmer and had no luck at all, maybe somebody can help with this to.
please, please somebody help, my robots just dying to be programmed.
Thanks for your help, but after Craig Lefkowitz, I discoverd that the problem was not with my home made BoE, but the com ports on my computer. COM1 isint activated, COM2 has my mouse plugged into it, COM3 does not exist, and COM4 has my modem on it. I looked through the Bios, and the motherboard manual, and through the internet but can't find out how to activate COM1. I'm still investigating this and will get back to you as soon as I've fixed the problem.
Thanks for you help
John
Original Message
From: Craig Lefkowitz
To: basicstamps@egroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 12:05 AM
Subject: RE: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] board of education
This is my experince with a BS 2 programmer I recently built:
The programmer is easy.· See page 200 in the stamp manual (v 1.9) for a pinout.· You can d/l the manual directly from parallax's site; it's in pdf form.
The BS 2 is programmed serially via free software provided by Parallax.· Pins 2,3,4,5 from the serial cable are hooked up to pins 1,2,3,4 of the stamp.· You can also short pins 6 and 7 of the serial cable so the software can autodetect the port to which the stamp is attatched to, but this is optional.· There are probably a million and one slick ways to build the programmer, but I did mine quick and dirty.· Just cut a standard serial cable, pulled out and stripped the wires.· Used a multimeter to figure out which wire corresponded to which pin on the cable.· You'll also need to supply power to the stamp.· I used a 6v DC transformer (wall wart).· The positive lead goes into pin 24; ground goes into pin 23.· I then put the appropriate wires into a breadboard along with the stamp and fired up the software.· It worked beautifully.·
Generally, I never get things right the first time, so if I can do, it anyone can.
Here is the URL for the d/l's I mentioned:
http://www.parallaxinc.com/html_files/downloads/download.htm
--Craig
·
·
Original Message
From: JOHN & LISA [noparse][[/noparse]mailto:johnlisa@cytanet.com.cy]
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 6:06 PM
To: basicstamps@egroups.com
Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] board of education
please, please somebody help, my robots just dying to be programmed.
Thanks for your help Craig, from your email I was able to figure out that the problem was not with my home made BoE, but with my computer, COM1 isn't activated, I've looked through the manual, the internet and the Bios but no luck, my mouse seems to work of COM2, and my Modem off COM4, there's no COM3, I'm still investigating this and will get back to as soon as it's fixed,
Thanks for your Email.
John