PCB techniques
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Posts: 46,084
Try here:
http://www.al-williams.com/wd5gnr/pcb.htm
Mike Hardwick, for Decade Engineering -- <http://www.decadenet.com>
Manufacturer of the famous BOB-II Serial Video Text Display Module!
http://www.al-williams.com/wd5gnr/pcb.htm
Mike Hardwick, for Decade Engineering -- <http://www.decadenet.com>
Manufacturer of the famous BOB-II Serial Video Text Display Module!
Comments
http://www.lvr.com/pcbs.htm
http://www.netcomuk.co.uk/%7Ewwl/pcbs.html
http://w1.2671.telia.com/~u267101500/pcb/index.html
The etching is really the simple part. I use Ferric Chloride, but we have
some rudimentary wet lab capability. The Ammonia Persulphate is supposed to
be much more user friendly but I haven't used it.
If you use Ferric Chloride, you can get started by putting it in some old
Tupperware and just putting the board in it. To make it go faster, use an
aquarium heater to heat it up. Even faster you can use an air pump and some
hose with holes in it to "agitate" the hot solution. Figure about 30 minutes
to an hour in a warm room with no agitation. Maybe 5 minutes if you have it
hot and moving. There are several cheap etching tanks which are just
Rubbermaid containers, heaters, and an air pump, with a sparger that is just
a slotted holder for the cards and some holes to bubble the air.
http://www.web-tronics.com/labpcboarett.html
You can roll your own pretty easy -- the only part that you can't get at
WalMart is the sparger. For $40 it is easier to buy it from them. However,
they have a bad track record of shipping it so that the aquarium heater
breaks. They sent me 2 more before I finally got one that wasn't broken in
shipping! On the other hand, they did ship new ones at no cost.
Good luck!
Regards,
Al Williams
AWC
* Expand your Stamp I/O with a PAK-III or PAK-IV:
http://www.al-williams.com/awce/pak3.htm
>
Original Message
> From: Aunt Bea [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=IFJmLdTHnyY00IuZ6kiEmjflWMjOCUsdZoHPYgQ05s1Vf61yAv5auqUjaUjIhXSWkDQeI3NArvge]r_fl_z@h...[/url
> Sent: Monday, March 27, 2000 4:38 PM
> To: basicstamps@egroups.com
> Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: PCB techniques
>
>
> Thanks Mike,
>
> I've read Al's description on his process of using the printer
> technique for
> pcb production, however it assumes you already have some pcb production
> experience. It doesn't detail the process of actually etching
> the board.
> This is the help I seek.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> >From: Mike Hardwick <decade@w...>
> >Reply-To: basicstamps@egroups.com
> >To: basicstamps@egroups.com
> >Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: PCB techniques
> >Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 12:09:27 -0800
> >
> >Try here:
> >
> >
> >http://www.al-williams.com/wd5gnr/pcb.htm
> >
> >Mike Hardwick, for Decade Engineering -- <http://www.decadenet.com>
> >Manufacturer of the famous BOB-II Serial Video Text Display Module!
> >
> >
> >
> >eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/basicstamps
> >http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> ______________________________________________________
>
>
>
> eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/basicstamps
> http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications
>
>
>
> You can roll your own pretty easy -- the only part that you can't get at
> WalMart is the sparger. For $40 it is easier to buy it from them. However,
> they have a bad track record of shipping it so that the aquarium heater
> breaks. They sent me 2 more before I finally got one that wasn't broken in
> shipping! On the other hand, they did ship new ones at no cost.
Al is right - rolling your own is really easy. I have a couple pics of
mine up at:
http://diehumans.anubis.ab.ca/proj/etchtank/
Optimal heat for the etch solution is 100 degrees F. Also, if you drill
mounting holes in your PCBs you can make a pseudo-sparger by threading
insulated wire through a couple of the mounting holes and 'hang' the PCB
in the solution like that.
circuit design on transaprency. hold transparency flat to board with a
piece of glass. It has to be flush on the board to get detail. In a dark
(closet) room, expose board with proper light (instructions come with board
- lights available from Grainger's). Develop board with matching GCtech
developer and the resist washes off. Then etch board in ferric chloride
solution (RadioShack) until the unwanted copper areas are gone. Radio shack
has a little kit that is good for a first try.
Roger
At 07:53 PM 3/27/00 GMT, you wrote:
>Greets to the group.
>
>I'm seeking a tutorial on PCB fabrication...covering transparency production
>and etching practices...for the beginner. Any suggestions would be
>appreciated. TIA.
>______________________________________________________
>
>
>-- Easily schedule meetings and events using the group calendar!
>-- http://www.egroups.com/cal?listname=basicstamps&m=1
>
>
>
>
Roger Edberg
rjedberg@c...
http://www.cruzio.com/~pgraphic
with a 250 watt heat lamp about 8 inches above. Every few minutes I grab
the board by edge and swish it around. The board is usually done in ~ 20
min. If you are chicken, use rubber gloves[noparse]:)[/noparse] I do wear glasses to protect
against splashes or the lamp breaking.
Ray McArthur
Original Message
From: <donp@c...>
To: <basicstamps@egroups.com>
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2000 6:22 PM
Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: PCB techniques
> Optimal heat for the etch solution is 100 degrees F. Also, if you drill
> mounting holes in your PCBs you can make a pseudo-sparger by threading
> insulated wire through a couple of the mounting holes and 'hang' the PCB
> in the solution like that.
>
I'm seeking a tutorial on PCB fabrication...covering transparency production
and etching practices...for the beginner. Any suggestions would be
appreciated. TIA.
______________________________________________________
I've read Al's description on his process of using the printer technique for
pcb production, however it assumes you already have some pcb production
experience. It doesn't detail the process of actually etching the board.
This is the help I seek.
Thanks again.
>From: Mike Hardwick <decade@w...>
>Reply-To: basicstamps@egroups.com
>To: basicstamps@egroups.com
>Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: PCB techniques
>Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 12:09:27 -0800
>
>Try here:
>
>
>http://www.al-williams.com/wd5gnr/pcb.htm
>
>Mike Hardwick, for Decade Engineering -- <http://www.decadenet.com>
>Manufacturer of the famous BOB-II Serial Video Text Display Module!
>
>
>
>eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/basicstamps
>http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________
Thanks Al.
>From: "Al Williams" <alw@a...>
>Reply-To: basicstamps@egroups.com
>To: <basicstamps@egroups.com>
>Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: PCB techniques
>Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 17:09:54 -0600
>
>Lots of stuff at:
>http://www.lvr.com/pcbs.htm
>
>http://www.netcomuk.co.uk/%7Ewwl/pcbs.html
>
>http://w1.2671.telia.com/~u267101500/pcb/index.html
>
>
>The etching is really the simple part. I use Ferric Chloride, but we have
>some rudimentary wet lab capability. The Ammonia Persulphate is supposed to
>be much more user friendly but I haven't used it.
>
>If you use Ferric Chloride, you can get started by putting it in some old
>Tupperware and just putting the board in it. To make it go faster, use an
>aquarium heater to heat it up. Even faster you can use an air pump and some
>hose with holes in it to "agitate" the hot solution. Figure about 30
>minutes
>to an hour in a warm room with no agitation. Maybe 5 minutes if you have it
>hot and moving. There are several cheap etching tanks which are just
>Rubbermaid containers, heaters, and an air pump, with a sparger that is
>just
>a slotted holder for the cards and some holes to bubble the air.
>
>http://www.web-tronics.com/labpcboarett.html
>
>You can roll your own pretty easy -- the only part that you can't get at
>WalMart is the sparger. For $40 it is easier to buy it from them. However,
>they have a bad track record of shipping it so that the aquarium heater
>breaks. They sent me 2 more before I finally got one that wasn't broken in
>shipping! On the other hand, they did ship new ones at no cost.
>
>Good luck!
>
>
>Regards,
>
>
>Al Williams
>AWC
>* Expand your Stamp I/O with a PAK-III or PAK-IV:
>http://www.al-williams.com/awce/pak3.htm
>
>
>
> >
Original Message
> > From: Aunt Bea [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=YMXcj3f5wXxqytZUYmKWXeEBdoi1jz6v2EyInTnGL1DEc5ReSn31UEgowuw1Ug2GfMtedKjLwp59]r_fl_z@h...[/url
> > Sent: Monday, March 27, 2000 4:38 PM
> > To: basicstamps@egroups.com
> > Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: PCB techniques
> >
> >
> > Thanks Mike,
> >
> > I've read Al's description on his process of using the printer
> > technique for
> > pcb production, however it assumes you already have some pcb production
> > experience. It doesn't detail the process of actually etching
> > the board.
> > This is the help I seek.
> >
> > Thanks again.
> >
> > >From: Mike Hardwick <decade@w...>
> > >Reply-To: basicstamps@egroups.com
> > >To: basicstamps@egroups.com
> > >Subject: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: PCB techniques
> > >Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 12:09:27 -0800
> > >
> > >Try here:
> > >
> > >
> > >http://www.al-williams.com/wd5gnr/pcb.htm
> > >
> > >Mike Hardwick, for Decade Engineering -- <http://www.decadenet.com>
> > >Manufacturer of the famous BOB-II Serial Video Text Display Module!
> > >
> >
> >
> > >
> > >eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/basicstamps
> > >http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > ______________________________________________________
> >
> >
> >
> > eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/basicstamps
> > http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>-- Easily schedule meetings and events using the group calendar!
>-- http://www.egroups.com/cal?listname=basicstamps&m=1
>
>
______________________________________________________