Circuit diagram for Stamp
dk_akj
Posts: 37
Hi,
I'm going to make a PCB for my project.
Because I'm am new to electronics I'd like to see som circuit diagrams where the stamp is used.
On my·pcb I need:
I really hope someone has some diagrams they will share. I've searched Google but cant find anything.
Kind regards
Anders
NB: I don't want a solution,· I want inspiration so that I can learn !
I'm going to make a PCB for my project.
Because I'm am new to electronics I'd like to see som circuit diagrams where the stamp is used.
On my·pcb I need:
- Stamp
- Powersupply·for·Stamp ( Input is·230VAC)
- Digital inputs through optocoupler. (Can the same optocoupler handle 24/230VAC or 24 VDC·input ??)
- Digital output for relays.
- A few LED's
I really hope someone has some diagrams they will share. I've searched Google but cant find anything.
Kind regards
Anders
NB: I don't want a solution,· I want inspiration so that I can learn !
Comments
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Sid Weaver
The Stamp Tester
http://hometown.aol.com/newzed/index.html
·
Our final product must be able to run without a pc nearby. I think a PC is a very expensive powersupply
Regards
Anders
This is my first diagram. I made it·with PCBExpress.
Is it complete foolish ??
Will the inputs and outputs work ??
Will my Stamp explode ??
//akj
Sid
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Jon Williams
Applications Engineer, Parallax
Dallas Office
I know that the "programming port" DB-9 is wired wrong, I'll make a special cable for programming. ( to save components on X pcb and only make 1 special cable)
Regards
Anders
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Sid Weaver
The Stamp Tester
http://hometown.aol.com/newzed/index.html
·
If the output of T1 is 24 volts, then you are looking at an input to the 7805 of about 34 volts, which is too much for the 7805.· I suggest you look at a PT5101N - expensive, but a lot safer.
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Sid Weaver
The Stamp Tester
http://hometown.aol.com/newzed/index.html
·
I need to take another look, but I assume that these have super low ripple, transient suppresion, RFI suppresion, and maybe even low voltage protection built in.
Since these 'higher quality' wall warts now exist, why design the power supply at all. Besides, working side-by-side with 240VAC and 5VDC seems to just beg for burning up everything if you get an accidental short.
If the power supply fails, you just replace it as a unit. Also, you seem to want to save componets on the PCB -- this saves quite a few.
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G. Herzog in Taiwan
Post Edited (Herzog) : 8/21/2004 2:24:19 PM GMT
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Chris Savage
Knight Designs
324 West Main Street
P.O. Box 97
Montour Falls, NY 14865
(607) 535-6777
Business Page:·· http://www.knightdesigns.com
Personal Page:··· http://www.lightlink.com/dream/chris
·
Thanks alot for your comments.
1: I'll make the programming port as described by Jon Williams.
2: It is not possible to use a wall plug ( I'd be glad if it was ) The board must be installed on a machine.
3: T1 has 12 VAC output.
How about inputs and outputs ? Is it okay ??
Once again, thanks alot for your help
Anders
You do not indicate the size of the resistor in series with the base, but it should be about 2K.
There is no protective resistor on P0 and P1.
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Sid Weaver
The Stamp Tester
http://hometown.aol.com/newzed/index.html
·
Sid
I'll go for NPN
//akj
Anders,
Your power supply looks ok but make sure it can supply enough current for your modem. I would also add some more capacitance to the output of your voltage regulators, the data sheets on the regulators will suggest what's required. I normally use 1000 uf to the output of a regulator just because I've always done it and haven't had any problems. Also I don't know if it's a good idea to parallel the outputs of the LM7805 to get a get a higher output current and the LM7805's will get very HOT if powered from a 12 VDC input, make sure you have an adequate heat sink. Take a look at www.national.com for other regulators. You can download a program from them that's called "Switchers made Simple", this really helps if you are determined upon building your own power supply. You said it was to be mounted in a machine and you didn't want to use a wall wart. Depending on your design, and if I was doing it, you might want to opt for a commercial power supply board. These can usually be had for a fraction of what they cost new via the surplus market, and as a side benefit most of them ARE new! Here's some links to surplus houses I use for power supplies:
www.mpja.com
www.allelectronics.com
www.goldmine-elec.com
Also this will keep the high AC voltages somewhat isolated from the DC powered electronics and provide a safer design. Can you give us some more information on the modem you are using? If it happens to be an Enfora modem, I would most definitely be concerned about the power supply design. Most of our integrator problems have to do with power supply problems.
Mike
Post Edited (Mike Cook) : 8/22/2004 7:14:55 PM GMT
Thanks alot for your input.
Yes, it is an Enfora modem (SA-GL)
I'll take a look for a PSU on the sites you mentioned. And see if I can find some "gold".
The 2 LM's in parallel is an error. The meaning was one for 5V and one for 9V.
Anders
Check your Private Mail.
Thanks,
Mike
i build industrial apps for the bs2sx and i have a few niblets of advice; i even use the same software and board house for our pcb's.
check out TI's tpic6a596. it is a high current - open drain output - shift register. you can cascade them to make several open drain outputs and you'd only have to dedicate 3 io's to interface. i use them to pull relays and drive indicators.
to save board space investigate sip and dip resistor networks. just be cautious; they are low power devices
try using a line drive such as a 74hc541 to drive your serial data. if a surge appears on your serial line dont let your stamp take the fall. bc $1·< $50 you can also tie the inputs together to make muliple outputs if it makes you happy.
toss some led's in series with your inputs and other led's to monitor various situations to indicate possible circuit failures.
wago makes these super din mounts for pcbs. hence you can mount your pcb on a din rail if it makes you happy
this is the best advice that i can offer that hasnt been said, this promises to be a really resourceful thread you
nick B
Thanks alot for your input.
Can i simply put a LED in series with my inputs and outputs ??
Right now 6 inputs and 6 outputs is enough, mayby later I'll need the shift register output.
Thank you
Anders
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G. Herzog in Taiwan
They cost $12-20 USD.
They have an AC cord (about 1 1/2 meters) in. They are rated 100 to 230VAC. And they come in various single outputs (up to 5 amps) from 4.2 volts to 24volts with a cord out (and plug).
Spike protection, transient protect, and low voltage protect are not specifically mentioned. So, I was wrong and would recommend adding the first two.
These units appear to be more powerful counterparts to the wall warts and designed for one unit which fits all world markets.
They are sealed plastic units, not open chassis. So they can be put into small tight configurations and never clog up with dust.
No fuse, so I assume some internal shut off for heat or overvoltage
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G. Herzog in Taiwan
regarding the LED on the input. Do you mean like this
Inputpin
R330
LED
Contact
+5vdc
Regards
Anders
the input·resistor in this circuit was used for TTL to ·+/-10V levels and worked just fine.
i also reccomend you use a LED array because they are much smaller.
nick B
ps i know the op+/- isnt entirely accurate. loads requre pullups
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Jon Williams
Applications Engineer, Parallax
Dallas Office
Is the optoisolator placed on the serial connection to the modem ?
Anders
I have now put optocouplers on all inputs.
I have relays on all·outputs ( via a transistor ).
Anders
Post Edited (dk_akj) : 8/24/2004 6:30:33 PM GMT
thats not a retrofit to your design but a snippet of a design i've been working on, i added an led on the output collector just for demonstration.
also i highly recommend you use diodes across the coils of your relays to eliminate any problems generated by counter emf (or flyback.... i forget the nomenclature). in any case i've had these problems with off-pcb 12vdc relays that was easily repaired with a shunt diode. some transistors have internal diodes across the Drain/Source. this supplies some protection, but i always use a shunt diode just to be sure.
in any case when you move on to the pcb design phase make sure that all your traces are well within their current limits and avoid ground loops if rf may be a problem
nickB
Thanks alot.
I'll add diodes too.
All you guys helping me are GREAT, can't thank you enough
Anders
A few more questions from the stupid Dane
1: I'll use a 5 vdc powersupply. Is it correct if I connect +5v to pin 21 ? and 0v to pin 23. Pin 24 is not connected at all.
2: Is VSS supposed to be connected to both pin 4 and pin 23 ?? or is one of them enough ?
3: Whats the difference between VSS and ground ??
Fx. On this image posted by Jon (http://forums.parallax.com/forums/attach.aspx?a=141) is it OK to connect the 0.1 microF capacitor to VSS ??
Regards
Anders