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[SOLVED] Desoldering the P2 chip from EVAL board — Parallax Forums

[SOLVED] Desoldering the P2 chip from EVAL board

doggiedocdoggiedoc Posts: 2,241
edited 2020-01-19 04:35 in Propeller 2
This may very well be one of those “If you have to ask.....” situations. I short circuited my P2 on my rev B P2-EVAL Board last week and I’ve already got 4 replacement ICs from the original order. My plan was to use those for a new board, but I really need to flesh things out on the EVAL board more. So, I plan to desolder and replace the P2 IC on my P2-EVAL board by hand.

My question is about the ground pad under the chip. I seem to remember Chip having to work at how to get heat to the solder under the chip (by hand). I was planning to use hot air to remove and after cleaning the pads - syringing the new solder paste in place and reflowing it with the chip in place with hot air again. I suspect I shouldn’t reflow the whole board in my IR reflow oven. How would you do it?

Doc

Comments

  • This is one of those tasks you might like to video :)


    I'd put the board on a hotplate and bring it up to 150C. Then with a generous squidge of flux around all the pins, and a decent capacity hot air gun probably set to 350C, work the hot air on the top of the chip to remove it.

    That's the tough part. After that, a good clean up and remove all the lead-free solder. Put down some fresh leaded solder and flux, or solder paste, and repeat the pre-heat and hot-air gun process to re-appy.

    I've done a couple of Eval boards like that, and it goes pretty quickly if you get the board pre-warmed, so that the mass of copper doesn't suck away the heat from the hot air gun. Plus with pre-heat, you've "only" got another 60-70C to climb with the gun, instead of >200C. Those Eval boards have an almost solid slug of 4oz copper on the bottom, plus a fair mass of solid copper on the other 3 layers too.
  • @VonSzarvas - thanks for the pointers. I didn't think about preheating. My reflow oven has a preheat setting I do believe.
  • cgraceycgracey Posts: 14,155
    Removing the P2 from the Eval board requires a lot of heat, due to the huge ground plane on the bottom side of the PCB that is connected to the bottom side of the chip by 81 vias.

    I've watched Terrell at work do it. He puts a hot air source underneath the PCB and heats it up for maybe a whole minute. Then, he hits the top of the chip with more hot air to get everything molten. It's not his favorite thing to do.
  • If you have to do this more than occassionally: www.zeph.com

    Actually, you might check-out that link anyway because an enterprising soul can sort of recreate several thousand dollars of expensive hot-air reflow equipment with a pair of $25 heat guns if due caution is used.
  • cgracey wrote: »
    Removing the P2 from the Eval board ... It's not his favorite thing to do.
    Yeah, I can understand. I’m a little anxious about it but the board is useless with a dead P2 anyway. I’ll shall proceed!

    @VonSzarvas - video? Perhaps I will.

    @JRoark - enterprising is my middle name.

  • Peter JakackiPeter Jakacki Posts: 10,193
    edited 2020-01-19 03:45
    If the chip is dead then simply cut the pins (at the package edge) with a blade by pressing down on them at an angle which stops the blade jamming into the copper tracks. Then you can run a blob of solder and a hot iron along all the cut pins and scoop them up on the end of the tip and flick them away. Normally now a QFP package would simply fall away but at least you only have to worry about the exposed pad by heating from underneath then lifting the stripped package away. The P2D2 is easier because it has an access hole under the package.
    BTW, I use a gas iron in hot air mode since it's nice and hot and doesn't blow anything away.
  • @"Peter Jakacki" - good tip. Thanks!
  • Now to clean up the pads.
  • Solder wick the pads
  • evanhevanh Posts: 15,916
    You make it look easy Doc. Good skills.

  • cgraceycgracey Posts: 14,155
    Wow! Good job!
  • I preheated the board with my homemade reflow oven:
    FD8974AD-5D3C-4664-9CD9-177DF0A85609.jpeg
    EA3207DE-0A21-48DD-A83A-4BC051FA6A39.jpeg

    Then I used a small hobby heat gun and Chip-quick with ceramic tip tweezers.


    30A20047-49D9-418A-9884-DEB1743D1EF9.jpeg

  • I probably could have preheated a little hotter. I did 150C for 2-3 minutes.
  • evanhevanh Posts: 15,916
    Never heard of ChipQuik before. I'm assuming you used it just to ensure the legs lifted easy. It wouldn't have made any difference to the thermal pad, right?

  • cgraceycgracey Posts: 14,155
    There are bismuth alloys that have been used to rework boards like this. They have a low melting point and as they disolve into existing solder joints, they lower the overall melting point, making removal and cleanup easier.
  • doggiedocdoggiedoc Posts: 2,241
    edited 2020-01-19 12:40
    evanh wrote: »
    Never heard of ChipQuik before. I'm assuming you used it just to ensure the legs lifted easy. It wouldn't have made any difference to the thermal pad, right?
    ChipQuik is just a brand flux and has no other special properties as far as I know. It’s supposed to be a no clean tack flux. They also make ChipQuik Alloy - which is what @cgracey is talking about I believe. I should probably order some.

    Link to ChipQuik
    Doc
  • doggiedocdoggiedoc Posts: 2,241
    edited 2020-01-19 21:51




    Fixed!!!
  • evanhevanh Posts: 15,916
    Nice!

    Ah, I had googled ChipQuik and got the alloy description which seemed an appropriate reason to name it. Okay, so it was all about the heat then. Did you use the heat gun on top or underneath?

  • evanh wrote: »
    Nice!... Did you use the heat gun on top or underneath?

    Both actually. The little gun I have is not heavy duty. I stole if from my wife's craft bin. ;-)
  • I'm sure you have the same surgical skills with your critters, :)
  • Peter JakackiPeter Jakacki Posts: 10,193
    edited 2020-01-19 22:43
    Publison wrote: »
    I'm sure you have the same surgical skills with your critters, :)

    Wot!? Centipedes?
    :smile:

  • Publison wrote: »
    I'm sure you have the same surgical skills with your critters, :)

    Wot!? Centipedes?
    :smile:
    Too funny!
  • > @evanh said:
    > Never heard of ChipQuik before. I'm assuming you used it just to ensure the legs lifted easy. It wouldn't have made any difference to the thermal pad, right?

    Speaking as someone who seems to have an uncanny ability to let the purple smoke out of expensive components, I can tell you ChipQuik alloy is worth its weight in gold. Get some and play with it! Years ago I spent an afternoon with a tube of this stuff and an old PC motherboard and a heat gun. The lessons learned that day were priceless and continue to pay dividends today.

    That stuff is amazing.
  • K2K2 Posts: 693
    In my youth I purchased a spool of In52/Sn48 solder, m.p. 118 deg C. (What is youth for if not to do stupid things?) Until today I hadn't considered using it to aid the desoldering of ICs. Thanks!
  • > @K2 said:
    > In my youth I purchased a spool of In52/Sn48 solder, m.p. 118 deg C. (What is youth for if not to do stupid things?) Until today I hadn't considered using it to aid the desoldering of ICs. Thanks!

    If memory serves, this stuff actually lets you solder to *glass*. Am I milking without a bucket here?
  • @doggiedoc

    Great job on the repair. :)

    For anyone looking for chipquik. It's been around for a while and works great.

    https://www.chipquik.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=210001

    I remember seeing it many years ago in the Jameco electronics product catalog.

    https://www.jameco.com/z/SMD1-Chipquik-CHIP-QUIK-SMD-1-REMOVAL-KIT-SMD1-Chipquik_141305.html
  • K2K2 Posts: 693
    JRoark wrote: »
    If memory serves, this stuff actually lets you solder to *glass*. Am I milking without a bucket here?

    You are exactly right. That's what I bought it for. I was trying to make my own x-ray tubes.

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