Basic Stamp 1 Project Board Light an LED
microcontrolleruser
Posts: 1,194
in BASIC Stamp
Just puttering around with the Project Board.
There is no Blink an LED in Examples directory.
Is it just HIGH {pin number}?
Are Nuts and Volts articles the only lessons for Stamp 1?
Comments
There's an application note for the BS1 (see attached)
Mike
Putting board where it is handy.
Will get it done by dinnertime tomorrow.
PIC says 680 ohms for LED's. Just had to put that in.(where are the darn happy face icons?)
' {$STAMP BS1} ' {$PBASIC 1.0} Main: HIGH 5 PAUSE 250 LOW 5 PAUSE 250 GOTO Main680 ohms sounds like a value that would used to conserve battery power.
Could be about the 680 resistor.
Could be the 1000's of devices Microchip makes.
Some of them may put out a little more juice than others.
Not helpful having an LED quit working when you are really trying to figure something out.
I tracked down the USB to Serial adapter for the Project board.
Mike
What size are the LED's Parallax ships?
Sending you PM with sizes.
Disregard.
They are 5mm. You measure the 'barrel' above the lip.
Used my trusty Harbor Freight $2.99 nylon calipers.:)
470 ohm is fine. There might be something about the board circuitry.
Microchip 680ohm is for breadboard PIC. Direct connection.
The BS1 Project Board already has 220 Ohm resistors in series with each of the I/O pins to protect the I/O pins from short circuits (I looked up the old product webpage). If you want a brighter LED, use a 220 Ohm resistor in series with the LED (for a total of 440 Ohms).
Mike
Thank you. That is a 'I never knew that!'. Actually I sort of remember it.Bouncing between all the Stamp and Propellor boards makes
them all blur together sometimes.
Now we're cooking with gas!
What is input pin 'floating'? I would think that is why they are there.
What is 'pull-up' resistor and 'pull-down' resistor?
That is one of those items in PIC's I blew by and 'I'll deal with it later'.
https://playground.arduino.cc/CommonTopics/PullUpDownResistor
A pull-up or pull-down resistor is used to provide a specific state for a floating I/O pin yet allow some other signal to change it. A pull-up resistor is tied "up" to Vcc while a pull-down resistor is tied down to Ground. The resistor often has a value somewhere between 4.7K to 100K. You might connect a switch from the I/O pin to the opposite voltage from the pull-up/down. If the switch is open, the pull-up/down sets the I/O pin state. If the switch is closed, the opposite state is set. Often a pull-up is used with the switch tied to ground. The I/O pin state is 1 for open and 0 for closed. A 100K resistor might be used where a circuit runs off batteries and the current through the resistor when the switch is closed becomes important. A low value resistor (4.7K or 10K) might be used when the switch is far from the I/O pin and you want to swamp noise on the wiring with the higher current through the resistor and switch.
Publison
Where are the happy face icons please?
I'm dismayed you have been exposing yourself to the infuences on Arduino websites.
Arduino is anethema(something or someone that one vehemently dislikes.) to Parallax.
I will not join you looking at such things.
Actually waitng for Mike's take on it. Textbook definitions sometimes don't cut it with me.
Mike
Thank you. Let me read that again in a couple hours and respond.
Looks great right now.
Mike
'You can only serve one master' Old lesson from engine building and what not.
You get things done faster listening to one person. You can evaluate the results when it's done.
With me it's Parallax and PIC. That's it. Can't start going 'Here, There and everywhere.'
Yes. I will take a look at propellor.
I think Spin is fine. No need for a Basic.
What's a Microcontroller explains most of what you are asking about but the code is not for a BS1.
The Arduino uses a microcontroller that is not as powerful as a Propeller but it has a lot more built-in I/O like a PIC.
The Raspberry Pi uses a much more powerful microcontroller and since it runs Linux can be thought of as an ultra cheap PC though it's nowhere near as powerful.
Each has its place as does the Propeller and a good designer uses the best tool needed for the job at hand.
We have some customers who have used PBASIC extensively but fall in love with Blockly. It's not lust, but love. So much of it depends on your goals.
How about if I send you a FLiP Module and you try some of the things on this page? http://learn.parallax.com/tutorials/language/blocklyprop
Ken Gracey
Okay.Thank you.
In Southern California we know how to 'get while the getting is good'.
That usually means getting away here not getting something. (Where are the happy face icons?)
Yes. I will look at Blocky Props.
I just did a one minute Google search on Pull up Pull down. (hint..hint)
I' m not concerned were the content comes from, as long as it's legit. I have never used an Arduino.
As far as happy faces, there is as small face icon in the upper right of the post area. Click on that, and it will bring up all you faces.
Publison
Thank you. Boy! My brain has some blank spots.
After you post that is just the edit.
Never thought of looking there again.
What is a good way to remember what the flat side of the LED is?
I have to go find the section in What's a microcontroller to find out.
220 ohm resistor it is.
The Flip kit deal fell apart in negotiations.
Will pull out one of our Propellor boards later to take another look at Propellor.
Flat side is negative. Flat is like a dash or negative sign.
Round side is positive. More than the flat side. Positive is 'more' than negative.
I will still probably forget in about a day!
Could somebody redo these smiley face icons please! They don't stand out much.
-Phil
Phil
Thank you.
That breadboard is too tight.
I am just going to jumper out of pin block to half breadboard.
Jon
I'm gotten to work on this.
Clearing off all the breadboards of old projects
to get one to use for this.
Parts purchasing I have only gotten to the level of 'buy ten' when you buy a part.
Like a 22pf capacitor for example.
Success!
It all works.
Will post picture of Basic Stamp 1 Project Board with jumpers.
There it is.
Split the difference.
Could have:
Used board as is? No. Too crowded
Used another breadboard next to it? No. Too many jumpers. Hard to get the VDD and VSS over to it
without hunting down the longer jumper wires.