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Breadboard-friendly Propeller module? — Parallax Forums

Breadboard-friendly Propeller module?

David BetzDavid Betz Posts: 14,516
edited 2016-01-02 01:03 in Propeller 1
Does anyone know of a breadboard-friendly Propeller module that has an onboard USBserial connection? I know about the PropStick USB but $49 is a bit more than I want to pay. I have a Prop-Mini but it can't be powered over USB.
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Comments

  • There's this. It looks like you could easily power it from a $3 USB/serial module.

  • That looks nice but I think I could probably do the same thing with a PropMini that I already have. I was hoping for a module with a USB connection that could also supply power to an ESP8266 module.
  • I've heard about issues with ESP modules powered from USB ports - computer USB ports can;t deliver the current needed by some of the things the ESP does - they are "mostly" low power devices. If you just use the USB port to get power to them from a USB wall wart, then they are OK.

    I've also seen the need for a decoupling capacitor on the power into the ESP module. On the Espruino shield for the ESP-01, for example, a 47uF capacitor is recommended. Other applications go with anything from 10uF on up. I just read that the ESP can have a burst current draw of 300ma during some operations. Without the capacitor, the modules can act flaky; busy status, lost connections, etc.
  • mindrobots wrote: »
    I've heard about issues with ESP modules powered from USB ports - computer USB ports can;t deliver the current needed by some of the things the ESP does - they are "mostly" low power devices. If you just use the USB port to get power to them from a USB wall wart, then they are OK.

    I've also seen the need for a decoupling capacitor on the power into the ESP module. On the Espruino shield for the ESP-01, for example, a 47uF capacitor is recommended. Other applications go with anything from 10uF on up. I just read that the ESP can have a burst current draw of 300ma during some operations. Without the capacitor, the modules can act flaky; busy status, lost connections, etc.
    Thanks for pointing that out. I've seen mention of the need for a 10uF capacitor across the power pins. I guess this is why. Of course, eventually I want to get rid of the USB connection since the whole point of this is to wirelessly program the Propeller. I'm only using USB during development for both power and as a programming connection.

  • THESE guys went with 1000uF
  • kwinnkwinn Posts: 8,697
    Mickster wrote: »
    THESE guys went with 1000uF

    Larger electrolytic capacitors are needed for circuits that intermittently draw heavy currents for time periods in the millisecond range. They act as a current reservoir, but the high ESR of those capacitors cannot respond to the microsecond or shorter current pulses high speed logic circuits produce. For those circuits lower value low ESR tantalum, ceramic, and film capacitors are needed.

    Note that under the "Power" heading they state "A feature of this device is that the second 3.3V regulated power also has a 1000uF capacitor to act as a 'reservoir'."

  • Cluso99Cluso99 Posts: 18,069
    David,
    If you use the P8XBlade2 winging its way to you, together with the USB-Serial CP2102 I linked to (~US$1.50 on eBay), that will make a breadboard friendly connection that is USB powered.

    Provided the PC/Laptop can supply enough power for the ESP8266 - Don't connect anything larger than say 47uF tantalum because the USB spec actually says 10uF IIRC. Hopefully this will provide enough bulk power to avoid the brownout problem on the ESP8266.

    You can directly connect the USB/serial to my board but you will have to
    (1) ensure the 3v3 output pin from the USB/Serial makes no contact
    (2) bend the DTR pin (or wire) 0.1" sideways to the next 0.1" grid (I just couldn't put the reset pin in the correct position on the pcb no matter how hard I tried :( )

    Get the ESP8266 download working by using a spin/pasm program working under PropOs (or spinix) that simulates the reboot and download without the reset, and waits for the download protocol. That is how I was going to attempt to be able to download without the download timing restrictions. It would be easiest to get this working using the USB/serial first. Did I explain this sufficiently??? use the P1 bootcode rom source as the basis.
  • mindrobots wrote: »
    There's this. It looks like you could easily power it from a $3 USB/serial module.

    Very nice board indeed.
  • Cluso99 wrote: »
    David,
    If you use the P8XBlade2 winging its way to you, together with the USB-Serial CP2102 I linked to (~US$1.50 on eBay), that will make a breadboard friendly connection that is USB powered.

    Provided the PC/Laptop can supply enough power for the ESP8266 - Don't connect anything larger than say 47uF tantalum because the USB spec actually says 10uF IIRC. Hopefully this will provide enough bulk power to avoid the brownout problem on the ESP8266.

    You can directly connect the USB/serial to my board but you will have to
    (1) ensure the 3v3 output pin from the USB/Serial makes no contact
    (2) bend the DTR pin (or wire) 0.1" sideways to the next 0.1" grid (I just couldn't put the reset pin in the correct position on the pcb no matter how hard I tried :( )

    Get the ESP8266 download working by using a spin/pasm program working under PropOs (or spinix) that simulates the reboot and download without the reset, and waits for the download protocol. That is how I was going to attempt to be able to download without the download timing restrictions. It would be easiest to get this working using the USB/serial first. Did I explain this sufficiently??? use the P1 bootcode rom source as the basis.
    Thanks for your advice but I think I'm doing the opposite of what you're thinking. I don't want the Propeller to program the ESP8266. I want the ESP8266 to program the Propeller. Essentially, I'm making a WiFi PropPlug. However, one thing that hadn't occurred to me when I started is that I'll need to power the ESP8266 from the Propeller 3.3v power supply so I'll need one extra wire beyond what a PropPlug usually needs.

  • Mickster wrote: »
    mindrobots wrote: »
    There's this. It looks like you could easily power it from a $3 USB/serial module.

    Very nice board indeed.
    Yes, it does look like a nice board. It's unfortunate that they chose to use a 32K EEPROM instead of 64K like all Parallax boards use though.

  • David Betz wrote: »
    Mickster wrote: »
    mindrobots wrote: »
    There's this. It looks like you could easily power it from a $3 USB/serial module.

    Very nice board indeed.
    Yes, it does look like a nice board. It's unfortunate that they chose to use a 32K EEPROM instead of 64K like all Parallax boards use though.

    https://www.parallax.com/product/32210
  • Mickster wrote: »
    David Betz wrote: »
    Mickster wrote: »
    mindrobots wrote: »
    There's this. It looks like you could easily power it from a $3 USB/serial module.

    Very nice board indeed.
    Yes, it does look like a nice board. It's unfortunate that they chose to use a 32K EEPROM instead of 64K like all Parallax boards use though.

    https://www.parallax.com/product/32210
    Apparently, it is not possible to power the Propeller chip from the USB connection on the PropStick USB. The Propeller requires a separate power supply.

  • Oh, I meant to show the 32K EEPROM still on the spec.
  • Cluso99Cluso99 Posts: 18,069
    David Betz wrote: »
    Cluso99 wrote: »
    David,
    If you use the P8XBlade2 winging its way to you, together with the USB-Serial CP2102 I linked to (~US$1.50 on eBay), that will make a breadboard friendly connection that is USB powered.

    Provided the PC/Laptop can supply enough power for the ESP8266 - Don't connect anything larger than say 47uF tantalum because the USB spec actually says 10uF IIRC. Hopefully this will provide enough bulk power to avoid the brownout problem on the ESP8266.

    You can directly connect the USB/serial to my board but you will have to
    (1) ensure the 3v3 output pin from the USB/Serial makes no contact
    (2) bend the DTR pin (or wire) 0.1" sideways to the next 0.1" grid (I just couldn't put the reset pin in the correct position on the pcb no matter how hard I tried :( )

    Get the ESP8266 download working by using a spin/pasm program working under PropOs (or spinix) that simulates the reboot and download without the reset, and waits for the download protocol. That is how I was going to attempt to be able to download without the download timing restrictions. It would be easiest to get this working using the USB/serial first. Did I explain this sufficiently??? use the P1 bootcode rom source as the basis.
    Thanks for your advice but I think I'm doing the opposite of what you're thinking. I don't want the Propeller to program the ESP8266. I want the ESP8266 to program the Propeller. Essentially, I'm making a WiFi PropPlug. However, one thing that hadn't occurred to me when I started is that I'll need to power the ESP8266 from the Propeller 3.3v power supply so I'll need one extra wire beyond what a PropPlug usually needs.
    It was what I was thinking -programming the prop with the ESP8266.

    I have thought that to run a "special boot program" on the prop that is almost the same as the rom boot code, but waits indefinitely for the startup sequence, and when found completes the handshake and loads into hub ram and optionally programs the eeprom, and then runs that code.

    Of course there are other ways such as getting the ESP8266 code to use a GPIO as a reset line to the prop.

    As for the 3V3 required for the ESP8266, the regulator I use on my modules will not power the ESP8266 properly due to the high power spikes required by the ESP8266 module. There is plenty of power for other things, but ~300mA surge doesn't have enough pcb area for power dissipation even with only 5V header.
  • Any idea if the PropMini power supply can handle the 300mA spikes?
  • I ended up using a PropMini to power the ESP8266. This makes sense because I'm building a WiFi PropPlug type of thing that would get its power from the board it is loading anyway. Here is the full setup.
    800 x 600 - 259K
  • David Betz wrote: »
    I ended up using a PropMini to power the ESP8266. This makes sense because I'm building a WiFi PropPlug type of thing that would get its power from the board it is loading anyway. Here is the full setup.



    Nice circuit construction, do you know the boards material? Couldn't find it at adafruit.
  • MikeDYur wrote: »
    David Betz wrote: »
    I ended up using a PropMini to power the ESP8266. This makes sense because I'm building a WiFi PropPlug type of thing that would get its power from the board it is loading anyway. Here is the full setup.



    Nice circuit construction, do you know the boards material? Couldn't find it at adafruit.
    It's this board: https://www.adafruit.com/products/1609
  • David Betz wrote: »


    I read it again, but is the board glass epoxy?
  • MikeDYur wrote: »
    David Betz wrote: »


    I read it again, but is the board glass epoxy?
    Sorry. I didn't catch that you wanted to know what it is made of. Yes, it is glass epoxy.

  • Thanks, the photo didn't help, looked like something space age, maybe ceramic. Sorry I don't want to take away from your original intention.
  • David BetzDavid Betz Posts: 14,516
    edited 2016-01-04 00:23
    MikeDYur wrote: »
    Thanks, the photo didn't help, looked like something space age, maybe ceramic. Sorry I don't want to take away from your original intention.
    That's okay. My WiFi loader is showing signs of life. You can now load Spin .binary files using the following command:
    curl -X POST --data-binary @slow.binary thing2.local/run
    

    Next I'm going to work on a two-stage loader so the second stage can run at a really high speed.
  • Cluso99Cluso99 Posts: 18,069
    A 2 stage loader makes a lot of sense. The second stage can be tailored specifically to what is being used as the loader. The first stage is only a quick stub to get things going.
  • Cluso99 wrote: »
    A 2 stage loader makes a lot of sense. The second stage can be tailored specifically to what is being used as the loader. The first stage is only a quick stub to get things going.
    Yes and the nice thing about this ESP module is that it is programmable unlike the Xbee WiFi module. I've embedded the first stage loader in the ESP code and will likely embed the second stage loader there as well. The only thing that will be on the PC side is something to generate an HTTP POST request.

  • One of my many hair-brained ideas was to design a dual Propeller board that was just meant for breadboarding. Something that would have two rows of headers. One side each for the two props.

    So that the left side would have headers for P0 to P31. Then, it would have another 8 pin header for the misc pins.

    The right side would be the same only mirrored for the second propeller.

    The two propellers would not be connected (you would have to jumper them).

    But the board would be very thin (but long). The two sides would be separated by the middle section of the breadboard.
    Then, maybe two prop-plug headers on the top/bottom for each propeller.

    Seems like it would be a simple board to design. If I could only make my lazy self do it.
  • kwinnkwinn Posts: 8,697
    Or you could use two of Cluso99's P8XPropBlade2. Then it would only be a matter of placing the sockets and headers on the board. Very easy layout, not much if any more cost than starting from scratch, and provides a lot of extras.
  • kwinn wrote: »
    Or you could use two of Cluso99's P8XPropBlade2. Then it would only be a matter of placing the sockets and headers on the board. Very easy layout, not much if any more cost than starting from scratch, and provides a lot of extras.
    I was thinking exactly the same thing. I should have ordered two!

  • I saw that board. While it looks awesome (reminds me of the Teensy), my idea was to have all 40 pins of each propeller in one long header so that it could be plugged into a breadboard easily. I'm sure you could do some soldering magic on the P8XPropBlade2 but the pins don't line up by default.
  • I've built several versions of what you're describing. My Propeller Breadboard is here.
  • cbmeeks, JLocke - the SIP idea is interesting. I was just kicking around how such a solution would allow a strip board to act as a backplane of sorts. With right angle headers, the SIP could be mounted vertically (taller, but tiny footprint).

    It reminds me Basic Stamp Modules - BS1 and BS2.
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