Tamiya parts and Parallax designed controllers and those servos
Buck Rogers
Posts: 2,175
in Robotics
Hello!Tamiya makes an interesting collection of parts for vehicles, such as:http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=70098
And thenhttp://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=70100
It seems that their Universal Plate is the right size to hold two servos which are these fellows:
https://www.parallax.com/product/900-00008
My idea was to make use of the aforementioned servos to replace the regular motor kits that Tamiya suggests the users, ah, build and use for their tracked vehicle designs.
There's a bot design roosting on the Internet that involves a cellphone such as the HTC Dream and a widget to translate what the phone hears into something the bot can use. And they are using the track and wheel kit in that configuration to move it. But so far there were no real instructions that says how to build the thing.
Oddly enough one of our own did indeed build a USB to Prop bridge that takes advantage of the onboard debugging methods that the phone can use. But I do not believe that design used it, I believe they used another method.
Of course the problem is that these servos look to be bigger then the plate itself as far as mounting issues go. I am inviting comments.
And thenhttp://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=70100
It seems that their Universal Plate is the right size to hold two servos which are these fellows:
https://www.parallax.com/product/900-00008
My idea was to make use of the aforementioned servos to replace the regular motor kits that Tamiya suggests the users, ah, build and use for their tracked vehicle designs.
There's a bot design roosting on the Internet that involves a cellphone such as the HTC Dream and a widget to translate what the phone hears into something the bot can use. And they are using the track and wheel kit in that configuration to move it. But so far there were no real instructions that says how to build the thing.
Oddly enough one of our own did indeed build a USB to Prop bridge that takes advantage of the onboard debugging methods that the phone can use. But I do not believe that design used it, I believe they used another method.
Of course the problem is that these servos look to be bigger then the plate itself as far as mounting issues go. I am inviting comments.
Comments
Here's a link to her earlier version.http://forums.parallax.com/discussion/131167/ted-s-first-steps/p1
I suppose CR servos may be easier to control but I think the motors and gearbox Tamiya sells to go with the treads is also a good option for power. Just add one of the many dual h-bridge chips available.
Here's another robot which uses those Tamiya treads.http://letsmakerobots.com/robot/project/dc01
Joystick BT Commander is any easy way to control a robot from an Android phone. Here's the thread JonnyMac posted on the topic.http://forums.parallax.com/discussion/159920/android-control-of-propeller-using-joystick-bt-commander-app-spin-code
I wrote my own little demo for the Propeller. It's in my GitHub.https://github.com/ddegn/BluetoothTest
I used an inexpensive HC-05 Bluetooth module.
Oddly enough I recall reading that one on Joystick BT earlier on. I didn't make the connection to the available app, so I didn't snag it for the device in question. I've also instructed your github site to send me a zip file of its contents.
Incidentally I've met the people behind Github. Good people, slightly strange.... Did you know that the entire site lives inside Amazon Web Services?
Erco, now that Duane has offered good comments, I'm now requesting yours.
I think it was ICStation.
I had to solder the small board to the breakout board. I'll probably be purchasing a couple more myself.
HC-05 boards can be found all over the place. I'm not sure if it makes much of a difference where one is purchased (other than cost).
I think it was ICStation.
I had to solder the small board to the breakout board. I'll probably be purchasing a couple more myself.
HC-05 boards can be found all over the place. I'm not sure if it makes much of a difference where one is purchased (other than cost).
Mine come with the pins attached.... I guess its all in picking the buyer.
Now whats a FONA? The text in the SPIN program for making the Bluetooth to Phone function test mentions it.
https://www.parallax.com/product/720-00012
https://www.parallax.com/product/720-00011
Be careful connecting most H-bridges to those Tamiya motors. The motors are horrendously inefficient, and at stall can easily pull 2-3 amps. Be aware they are designed for only 3V, and most H-bridges have a minimum voltage output of around 4.5V. Not a bad overvolting, but the extra 1.5V just means they'll pull more current.
I recommend this replacement, which is made for 6-12V operation, and has an 800mA stall.
https://www.pololu.com/product/1117
Get a bunch; you'll use them. This type of motor, FA-130, is a standard size, and is used in many of Tamiya's kits.
Both the stock Tamiya and the Pololu replacement generate copious noise that could get picked up by amplifiers and other unshielded electronics. Apply the usual filtering caps and other EMI protections.
Be mindful of the Tamiya treads. They're rubber, unreinforced, and stretch. Consider a sliding motor mount or adjustable tension idler to keep them tight. When the robot is put away between playtimes, remove the treads to keep them from stretching out.
Or picking the price you want to pay. If you paid less than $6.35 then you picked the right seller.
I just noticed the price has gone up at ICStation.http://www.icstation.com/a125hc-wireless-bluetooth-transceiver-module-wclear-shield-p-5351.html
A lot of the stuff on the extra circuit board isn't needed with a 3.3V microcontroller. I may just purchase the module without the breakout board.http://www.icstation.com/wireless-bluetooth-transceiver-module-rs232-p-1434.html
Apparently the HC-05 module can be used as either a Bluetooth master or slave device. In most cases, I think one would want a slave device. I think there may be times when having a Bluetooth master could be useful so I purchased the HC-05. I'm pretty sure the HC-06 is a slave only.
Now whats a FONA? The text in the SPIN program for making the Bluetooth to Phone function test mentions it.
I used my FONA program as a starting point for the Bluetooth program. I forgot to delete some of the original code.
The FONA is a cool little cell phone board from Adafruit. Here's a link to a thread about the FONA
http://forums.parallax.com/discussion/161193/adafuit-s-fona-with-the-propeller
https://www.parallax.com/product/720-00012
https://www.parallax.com/product/720-00011
Be careful connecting most H-bridges to those Tamiya motors. The motors are horrendously inefficient, and at stall can easily pull 2-3 amps. Be aware they are designed for only 3V, and most H-bridges have a minimum voltage output of around 4.5V. Not a bad overvolting, but the extra 1.5V just means they'll pull more current.
I recommend this replacement, which is made for 6-12V operation, and has an 800mA stall.
https://www.pololu.com/product/1117
Get a bunch; you'll use them. This type of motor, FA-130, is a standard size, and is used in many of Tamiya's kits.
Both the stock Tamiya and the Pololu replacement generate copious noise that could get picked up by amplifiers and other unshielded electronics. Apply the usual filtering caps and other EMI protections.
Be mindful of the Tamiya treads. They're rubber, unreinforced, and stretch. Consider a sliding motor mount or adjustable tension idler to keep them tight. When the robot is put away between playtimes, remove the treads to keep them from stretching out.
Hello!Thank you for your excellent advice Gordon. If I do build this fellow, I'll certainly take into consideration your advice. And I am going to order a supply of those brackets.
Or picking the price you want to pay. If you paid less than $6.35 then you picked the right seller.
I just noticed the price has gone up at ICStation.http://www.icstation.com/a125hc-wireless-bluetooth-transceiver-module-wclear-shield-p-5351.html
A lot of the stuff on the extra circuit board isn't needed with a 3.3V microcontroller. I may just purchase the module without the breakout board.http://www.icstation.com/wireless-bluetooth-transceiver-module-rs232-p-1434.html
Apparently the HC-05 module can be used as either a Bluetooth master or slave device. In most cases, I think one would want a slave device. I think there may be times when having a Bluetooth master could be useful so I purchased the HC-05. I'm pretty sure the HC-06 is a slave only.
Now whats a FONA? The text in the SPIN program for making the Bluetooth to Phone function test mentions it.
I used my FONA program as a starting point for the Bluetooth program. I forgot to delete some of the original code.
The FONA is a cool little cell phone board from Adafruit. Here's a link to a thread about the FONA
http://forums.parallax.com/discussion/161193/adafuit-s-fona-with-the-propeller
Hello!Oddly enough I knew that. I had an inspired guess sometime after posting that.... I wasn't sure how the Forum software (now!) would react to my returning to the post and, ah, edit it accordingly. I also remember reading your thread when Limor announced the thing. Oddly enough I found your ideas easier to follow then the ones they came up with for the other guy.
For details on how the CR servos worked with the Tamiya tracks, the original construction manual for that kit is still available here:
http://www.budgetrobotics.com/manuals/tankbot-servo/
I tended to use GWS servos, which came with an assortment of servo horns. The small horns already have the right hole spacing to exactly match the small sprocket on the Tamiya track set. You need to clip off the little plastic "hubcap" from the sprocket, then enlarge the hole (1/4" should do it) so you can fit in the servo horn screw. In all, a very easy mod.
Most servos are pretty slow, and with the small diameter drive sprocket, such tank bots lumber along at low speeds. But sometimes, less fast is better. There's good torque for rolling over small-profile objects on the floor.
For details on how the CR servos worked with the Tamiya tracks, the original construction manual for that kit is still available here:
http://www.budgetrobotics.com/manuals/tankbot-servo/
I tended to use GWS servos, which came with an assortment of servo horns. The small horns already have the right hole spacing to exactly match the small sprocket on the Tamiya track set. You need to clip off the little plastic "hubcap" from the sprocket, then enlarge the hole (1/4" should do it) so you can fit in the servo horn screw. In all, a very easy mod.
Most servos are pretty slow, and with the small diameter drive sprocket, such tank bots lumber along at low speeds. But sometimes, less fast is better. There's good torque for rolling over small-profile objects on the floor.
Good to know. Parallax does sell GWS ones. However.... They are not part of the Retail bucket of items that dealers do sell. The full size CR ones are indeed part of it. The brackets that you showed me Gordon, should be, but are not.
At one time, I bought lots of GWS, thousands overall. I modified these before sale. About 2-4% were bad out of the box -- electronics, gears, something.
Some years ago, Parallax had magnificent sales on their standard servos -- $6.95, which was about the same as what I was paying wholesale for GWS. (I bought as a customer, not a dealer, so I even paid CA tax.) I think in the 600-800 units that I bought, until they were all sold out of that stock, only one was bad out of the box.
What is a "retail bucket"?
At one time, I bought lots of GWS, thousands overall. I modified these before sale. About 2-4% were bad out of the box -- electronics, gears, something.
Some years ago, Parallax had magnificent sales on their standard servos -- $6.95, which was about the same as what I was paying wholesale for GWS. (I bought as a customer, not a dealer, so I even paid CA tax.) I think in the 600-800 units that I bought, until they were all sold out of that stock, only one was bad out of the box.
What is a "retail bucket"?
Hello!My mistake. In the store where I buy the majority of Parallax items, that is, Micro Center, on their DIY wall is most of the contents of the RT portion of the Parallax website.
That's here, https://www.parallax.com/company/parallax-products-retail-stores
I typically type into the browser, https://www.parallax.com/rt
And then I end up in the first one. There the ones I see on the walls are located. Well some of them. The important ones aren't there, but the big LCD display, (alphanumeric), wasn't, I found it linked to the smaller one.
The full size servos at Parallax are Futaba. They do sell a GWS in the 9 gram (8.8) package. It was used on the Penguin:
https://www.parallax.com/product/900-00014
The full size servos at Parallax are Futaba. They do sell a GWS in the 9 gram (8.8) package. It was used on the Penguin:
https://www.parallax.com/product/900-00014
Strangely enough, I did comment on that one which is that particular GWS design.
Thing is, I believe it is the classic actuator design, that is it will spin within the usual range, and is not a CR design.
Anyway..... I've given this an interesting discussion. Gordon would be okay if I used some of your ideas on that robot design for a powerplant, on what we're discussing here?
I understand now about retail packaging and Micro Center. There's one about 50 miles form me, but I've never been there. The local Fry's is generally out of most Parallax stock whenever I visit, so I stopped getting parts that way.
I understand now about retail packaging and Micro Center. There's one about 50 miles form me, but I've never been there. The local Fry's is generally out of most Parallax stock whenever I visit, so I stopped getting parts that way.
Okay.I did it again. That was my way of describing the methods of managing and running a tracked bot.