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New Arlo Switch Plate — Parallax Forums

New Arlo Switch Plate

Matt GillilandMatt Gilliland Posts: 1,406
edited 2015-03-29 01:07 in Robotics
Hey all Arlo fans...

We're thinking about enhancing the Arlo Power Distribution Switch Plate..
.
It has a cutout across the top allowing replacement of all fuses, without the plate needing to be removed.

Plus, It's made from .093 Delrin so it's much more rugged than the acrylic version.

This is a prototype...what do you think?
attachment.php?attachmentid=113656&d=1427405645

-MattG
1024 x 600 - 1M

Comments

  • Ken GraceyKen Gracey Posts: 7,387
    edited 2015-03-26 15:26
    I think you should put it in production pronto!

    Ken Gracey
  • GordonMcCombGordonMcComb Posts: 3,366
    edited 2015-03-26 16:04
    'Tis a beauty to behold!

    All it needs is a knock-out for an optional keyswitch.
  • WBA ConsultingWBA Consulting Posts: 2,934
    edited 2015-03-26 17:47
    Is it an optical illusion or is the 1 amp fuse blocked still?
  • Matt GillilandMatt Gilliland Posts: 1,406
    edited 2015-03-26 20:30
    The 1 amp fuse is very-removable...it's just the angle of the camera. It is easier on the big 1 ampere fuse to just "rock it out from under the plate"- meaning tilting it toward the clear space- it's easy. The smaller fuses are easiest to remove by using a small needle-nose pliers and pulling them straight up.

    Since we introduced the Arlo Power Distribution Board, I've heard of at least a couple of breaks of the original blue acrylic version. Delrin is a far superior material for this application, but it's only available in black (that's what we stock here for production material).

    Fellow Parallaxian Stephanie suggested adding the l and 0 indicators, The Arlo "Bot" moniker has been dropped, in favor of simply "Arlo", per our Marketing Guru Jen.

    The etched i and 0 and the "Motors" and the "Main" are difficult to read when etched. We suggest putting a little dab of liquid paper or "white-out" over the etchings and then simply wiping away the non-recessed excess - really easy and quick - and makes the words "pop".

    And instead of raster-etching the "Arlo" logo, we've cut it all the way through (lt's difficult to see in this photo- will try to do better pic soon). So now when you look at the cut-through logo, you see the white silk-screened Parallax branding on the APDB "peaking" from below...a happy accident.

    We've always liked "early adopters" because you're willing to be a test-pilot so-to-speak. But it's a bummer when you ADOPT EARLY and then IT'S IMPROVED. Parallax's got your back...if you already own one of the APDB's kits - PM me with your mailing address and we'll mail you out a new Delrin plate once they're in stock :) (shhhhh! Don't tell the boss!. ;)

    -Matt-delrin is a oool material-G
  • W9GFOW9GFO Posts: 4,010
    edited 2015-03-27 00:12
    Delrin is a far superior material for this application, but it's only available in black (that's what we stock here for production material).

    I have some white Delrin - so I'm pretty sure that black is not your only option.
  • WhitWhit Posts: 4,191
    edited 2015-03-27 06:14
    Looks great! Really good improvement too! Thanks for all you guys do!

    @Ken - what is that behind you? @Matt - PM'd you!
  • ercoerco Posts: 20,256
    edited 2015-03-27 07:37
    W9GFO wrote: »
    I have some white Delrin - so I'm pretty sure that black is not your only option.

    +1, white is also available. Delrin is very strong, machines great, holds a thread, self lubricating, but it gives off very noxious formaldehyde fumes when it burns (and it burns with a nearly invisible flame), said the pyromaniac. http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/cnc-machining/machining-delrin-173503/
  • GenetixGenetix Posts: 1,749
    edited 2015-03-27 09:43
    McMaster-Carr has white delrin (acetal resin).
  • Matt GillilandMatt Gilliland Posts: 1,406
    edited 2015-03-27 13:11
    I know there's white delrin available ;).

    It sounds like there's a consensus about "white" - what that means for us however, is that we have to figure out our cost for the (relatively low) volume of white that we would use for this product. We use a TON of black on the Elevate and Robot Wrenches and Encoder disks, and and and. This gives us great buying power because of the quantities that we buy.

    If the cost of white (in small quantities) is close to the cost of black (in very large quantities), then maybe it's doable - especially if it looks really good. (Although this results in more internal costs to us -stocking, purchasing, tracking, etc. as well). End result may well be that we might see an uptick in retail price because of these factors. Is it worth a premium price to be white? I don't know - you tell me :)

    I'll get some sample pieces on order and we'll see how it looks...then the only challenge will be to find some "black-out correction fluid" to make the etched labeling show up ;)

    -MattG
  • W9GFOW9GFO Posts: 4,010
    edited 2015-03-27 14:18
    Since we introduced the Arlo Power Distribution Board, I've heard of at least a couple of breaks of the original blue acrylic version.

    There is a big difference in durability between cast and extruded acrylic. Extruded is garbage in my opinion, suitable only for picture frames. If you were using extruded acrylic consider trying some cast, if you were already using cast then maybe just increase the thickness.

    In my opinion, cast acrylic should be more than strong enough for this application. Cast is prettier, easier to engrave (no color fill needed) and makes less toxic fumes while processing - less expensive too, unless you are getting a killer deal on your Delrin.
  • W9GFOW9GFO Posts: 4,010
    edited 2015-03-27 14:24
    W9GFO wrote: »
    There is a big difference in durability between cast and extruded acrylic.

    To test whether it is cast or acrylic light a small piece on fire. If it sizzles and crackles it is cast, if it melts and drips fireballs to the floor it is extruded.
  • WBA ConsultingWBA Consulting Posts: 2,934
    edited 2015-03-27 14:35
    I know there's white delrin available ;).

    Of course you do, you read the other posts...... ;-) nyuk, nyuk....

    Here's a snap of a "PCB" I did last week out of 1/16" thick White Delrin. I etched the silkscreen and component pads on the laser, cut out the TH locations and PCB outline, then filled in with a sharpie. I used a very large blunt sharpie to fill everything in, wait about 30 seconds, then take a piece of scrap delrin (in the shape of a putty knife) wrapped in a cotton cloth and rub across the top to remove the excess marker from the surface. This was made as the PCB to check fit in a 3D printed case to verify form/fit/function as well as do some preliminary assembly time studies.

    attachment.php?attachmentid=113686&d=1427491940

    As for the color, I think the black looks nice, as long as you have good ink fill. LaserBits sells color fill ink in 12 different colors but the problem is getting the ink to stick to the Delrin. It takes a pretty sophisticated paint to stick to Delrin long term. I recently did a plaque for the playground at my church out of Delrin and ended up using a Pilot Gold Paint Pen. Nothing else wanted to stick even to the etched surface.
    887 x 768 - 393K
  • GordonMcCombGordonMcComb Posts: 3,366
    edited 2015-03-27 16:37
    Won't a white switch plate look cheesy alongside a black HDPE Arlo? The fact that polyacetal comes also in white is hardly the issue. Batman doesn't wear orange boots for a reason. Dude's gotta stay cool.

    Will vinyl decals (e.g. Oracal 651) stick to Delrin? Phil, anyone?
  • WBA ConsultingWBA Consulting Posts: 2,934
    edited 2015-03-27 17:39
    Yes, they do. And, if you raster the surface ever so slightly to kill the naturally super slick delrin surface, they get better adhesion for longevity. Laserfoils can also be used so you can do the cutting and lettering in the same shot.
  • WhitWhit Posts: 4,191
    edited 2015-03-27 18:59
    Won't a white switch plate look cheesy alongside a black HDPE Arlo? The fact that polyacetal comes also in white is hardly the issue. Batman doesn't wear orange boots for a reason. Dude's gotta stay cool.

    I am with Gordon on this one! Black is the way to go... Plus Matt's "white-out" trick wouldn't work nearly as well! ;-) Do they make "black-out?"
  • jdoleckijdolecki Posts: 726
    edited 2015-03-28 04:04
    What about plywood?
  • WhitWhit Posts: 4,191
    edited 2015-03-28 09:14
    jdolecki wrote: »
    What about plywood?

    Yea! I am surprised that erco didn't suggest that one!
  • GordonMcCombGordonMcComb Posts: 3,366
    edited 2015-03-28 10:20
    Yes, they [vinyl decals]do [stick].

    Then I offer to Parallax FREE vinyl decals for the power switch positions. White Oracal 651 -- the same stuff they use for car window stickers. A couple of dozen wouldn't take long to cut out and prep. These things are very easy to apply. As long as they'll stick to the Delrin, I think they'll look much better than the wipe-on/wipe-off paint.
  • WhitWhit Posts: 4,191
    edited 2015-03-28 11:06
    Gordon - sounds neat! Can't wait to see...
  • Matt GillilandMatt Gilliland Posts: 1,406
    edited 2015-03-28 15:18
    Ironically, the choice is not black and white ;)

    I've got white sample pieces coming from the distributor -

    Just to be fair, let's see what that ugly cheapo-looking white delrin looks like against that amazingly beautiful and gorgeous black delrin masterpiece..:D

    Obviously, I shall remain un-biased in their evaluations ;)
    -MattG
  • ercoerco Posts: 20,256
    edited 2015-03-29 01:07
    jdolecki wrote: »
    What about plywood?

    Give the people the choice they want. White birch plywood or black walnut plywood!
  • ChrisL8ChrisL8 Posts: 129
    edited 2016-01-31 16:06
    Did this ever get produced, and if so, how do we get one to replace our old switch plate?

    I ask, since the picture on the store now shows a fancy new switch plate. :)
  • WhitWhit Posts: 4,191
    I'm with you ChrisL8!
  • Matt GillilandMatt Gilliland Posts: 1,406
    edited 2016-02-01 18:33
    Yes the new (delrin) switch plate is in production, and has been for quite a while.


    The new plate now accommodates the "curved row" of fuses on the newly designed distribution board, therefore it isn't directly compatible with the (earlier version) straight row of fuses.\

    However, we did create a straight version as well, which I have several of that are "drop-in" replacements for the straight acrylic versions.

    For those of you who have the acrylic version and would like to upgrade to the delrin plate, send an email to me at mattg@parallax.com. Be sure to include a mailing address.

    And be sure to specify whether you have a curved row of fuses or a straight row of fuses...

    -MattG

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