Proppano
Proppano is a Propeller based robotic tripod head for a small point-and-shoot camera. Using a robotic tripod head helps with post processing large images. With software multiple small shots can be stitched together easily. The more accurate you shoot, the less time it takes to make one giant super cool image!
A long time ago I made this lame attempt at a pano head. - https://youtu.be/ozZPIc2vSiQ
I had some issues with stitching photos, and found out last week why. It's parallax, not Parallax but the visual parallax effect. Basically the end of the camera's lens needs to be on the tilt and pan axis. So I started thinking and decided it would be fun to build something out of parts that could do a better job. My budget for this so far has been $0, it is made out of stuff I have. Needless to say there are much better ways to go about doing this, but this is probably close to the cheapest.
The software I'm using is called PTGui Pro. If you want to make a giant image, it is excellent software. Works for "drone" mapping as well, which is how I learned about it.
Here's a quick video of how it started out as a Stamppano -
Now I have the Proppano!
Current Image:
http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php/160445-Proppano?p=1323148&viewfull=1#post1323148
Older Images:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/cumuoyekexvh23r/AAAdjvWC8J0bHcSA3fUI4XFXa?dl=0
HDR Pano Photos:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/7imorw0aj07s597/AABbCh8kuK7A_cVM6ajKltZda?dl=0
Wish List:
wireless wii nunchuck Post #10
vibration sensor (in progress)
indexer (in progress)
A long time ago I made this lame attempt at a pano head. - https://youtu.be/ozZPIc2vSiQ
I had some issues with stitching photos, and found out last week why. It's parallax, not Parallax but the visual parallax effect. Basically the end of the camera's lens needs to be on the tilt and pan axis. So I started thinking and decided it would be fun to build something out of parts that could do a better job. My budget for this so far has been $0, it is made out of stuff I have. Needless to say there are much better ways to go about doing this, but this is probably close to the cheapest.
The software I'm using is called PTGui Pro. If you want to make a giant image, it is excellent software. Works for "drone" mapping as well, which is how I learned about it.
Here's a quick video of how it started out as a Stamppano -
Now I have the Proppano!
Current Image:
http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php/160445-Proppano?p=1323148&viewfull=1#post1323148
Older Images:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/cumuoyekexvh23r/AAAdjvWC8J0bHcSA3fUI4XFXa?dl=0
HDR Pano Photos:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/7imorw0aj07s597/AABbCh8kuK7A_cVM6ajKltZda?dl=0
Wish List:
wireless wii nunchuck Post #10
vibration sensor (in progress)
indexer (in progress)
Comments
BOM:
Propeller Protoboard
2S 500mah lipo w/ DC barrel jack to JST
Standard and continuous servo for movement
100 ohm resistor and 2N2222 transistor to drive shutter
Canon S100 Camera
CHDK firmware http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CHDK
Wires, connectors, aluminum bracket, steel plate base, bearings, bolts and standoffs from hardware store and skate shop.
Software to manipulate images, I use PhotoShop CC, Video Velocity 3 and PTGui Pro.
BOM Changes:
XBee (removed 3/26/15)
wii nunchuck (added 3/26/15)
WS8211 LEDs (added 3/27/15)
CODE:
Dropbox folder - https://www.dropbox.com/sh/mglbvrko3ufqm55/AACMbmN2WVF58_xNnmpUD_cKa?dl=0
-Phil
CHDK's built in "remote" script only. I will need to start finding or writing some more scripts, the defaults are shutter and zoom with bracketing, but not both or all three. If the CHDK looks for a number of pulses over time, it should be possible to run any command. Most of the fun of this project is I haven't gotten this far yet. I've used CHDK for intervalometer and some RAW functions, but the remote stuff is new and so far very fun!
Edit: PNP, NPN
Open to suggestions on any of this including CHDK scripting
I'm currently toying with the idea of a motion sensing remote/CHDK camera setup.
I was thinking of using the X-Band Motion Detector https://www.parallax.com/product/32213 (or PING) and a XBEE (or WiFly) module and a Propeller to build a motion sensing unit.
Another unit would consist of a Canon camera running with CHDK and USB remote cable and receiving RF module and microcontroller.
The first unit would detect and filter detected movements and send a signal to the second unit to snap a picture.
Yesterday I downloaded the CHDK code for my old Canon A530 Powershot and tested the USB remote feature with a 3V coin cell and it works great. I may use a transistor and 5V supply like you did.
CHDK is really impressive and has a ton of capabilities. Pulse counting for zooming the camera looks interesting.
Good luck with your project!
- Ron
Glad you like CHDK, I'm not sure I would have started this without it.
I have to get someone to cut a circle out of my steel base plate and get rid of those corners. I don't think I can do that with a hacksaw.
This is a really good explanation of how to find the "no parallax point"; http://www.johnhpanos.com/epcalib.htm
They also mentioned PTGui, I guess that is what everyone uses. I'm new to that too, getting better and will post more on it as things progress.
PTGui made this map all by itself in 30 seconds. It needs some work, but this was taken from a copter, using a Mobius (3MP) with no EXIF data to boot. I used the wide angle preset. I had over 900 pictures of this field, it could process a small area quite well. The shots are bad so I didn't bother trying to make it look nice. I guess I'll try the GoPro next.
Low res preview (shots numbered, seams red.) I will have to try again soon
I know CHDK has a motion sensor capability by detecting changes in the image "seen" by the camera sensor, but I want to detect movement under various circumstances and ignore background movement that the camera would detect. That's mainly why I want to use a remote sensor unit that can differentiate the types of movement I want to detect.
As you said, multiple remote sensors is certainly an option.
I also have some fun decisions ahead, how to use the buttons, joystick and accel to run all of the commands. I'm also thinking I'm going to need some kind of feedback from the tripod. Displays are too big, so I will most likely go with an RGB LED and piezo.
Taking pics with it is a lot of fun
I've never been a big fan of software motion detection, especially running on that camera's hardware.
I have to dig through the recent threads on low cost wireless communication. I want to incorporate some kind of wireless where I could add 10 triggers without spending hundreds...
I updated the code in post #2 to match what is in the video.
And oops, this was my first time making an indoor video with a Mobius camera. I didn't think it would pick up the Pandora Radio playing in the background...
As you can see the clouds look broken because of the passing of time between shots. This is easy to fix with the masking tool. Here is the lowest quality version I could conjure-
Here is the full 33MB version for download - https://www.dropbox.com/s/ify99tz4teww8x0/IMG_8933%20Panorama_hdr.jpg?dl=0
The camera was hand-held - no tripod.
The full image is 12260 x 2890 (from 5 images stitched together).
Not so good - the patio and garage are obviously messed up!
The pics I took over the weekend told me quite a bit. I'm looking at new cameras, something like the Canon Rebel T5i. I have access to a lot of lenses I can borrow until I figure that out. Needless to say I've been reading up on how to take pictures, that part is pretty important.
Also, I'll need to tighten up my design. Before I start looking for parts I decided to start looking at other similar setups. There are a few on the market, I was looking for inexpensive and hackable. I found this place TheGadgetWorks.com and they have AutoMate 1.0 which looked great and also a lot less than most others. I sent them an email asking if they had any brainless models I could buy and sure enough they sold me a bare bones AutoMate with the motors and controllers for $130. There's no way I could have DIY anything myself for that price, plus it's going to save me a lot of time.
Here is the AutoMate, I will only be using the pan axis. I want it to tilt on the nodal point of the lens. Should be easy enough... I hope.
My camera shows a portion of the previous image on the LCD so you can line it up for the next shot - then the PhotoStitch software aligns the images and creates the overlay and merges the images.
The camera and software do all the heavy lifting!
Good luck with your AutoMate setup.
Poof!
Blarg...
Pan:
Tilt (modified for continuous):
Tilt (how it comes):
Inside:
My plan for the tilt axis is to extend a shaft out and use a light chain extended upward to the nodal point of the lens. There isn't much space inside for the Propeller, it's gonna be tight.