Mechanical Engineer 3D Prints a Working 5-Speed Transmission for a Toyota 22RE Engine
Bob Lawrence (VE1RLL)
Posts: 1,720
http://3dprint.com/50265/3d-printed-toyota-transmission/
Who says that you can’t make anything useful on a desktop 3D printer? Sure, there are plenty of designs that you can find on 3D printing repository websites which make you question the motive of the designers — but at the same time, there are engineers and designers creating things that make you just stop and say, “WOW!”
One of these latter instances comes in the form of a 3D printed 5-speed transmission for a Toyota 22RE engine, created by a mechanical engineer named Eric Harrell of Santa Cruz, California. Not only does it look legitimate, but it also is completely functional.
Who says that you can’t make anything useful on a desktop 3D printer? Sure, there are plenty of designs that you can find on 3D printing repository websites which make you question the motive of the designers — but at the same time, there are engineers and designers creating things that make you just stop and say, “WOW!”
One of these latter instances comes in the form of a 3D printed 5-speed transmission for a Toyota 22RE engine, created by a mechanical engineer named Eric Harrell of Santa Cruz, California. Not only does it look legitimate, but it also is completely functional.
Comments
A long way from the old "Visible V8" model http://www.amazon.com/Revell-Visible-V-8-Engine-Scale/dp/B00004YUXS
Can't believe you can still buy it!
WOW for the work he put in there. But useful? For what exactly? 48 hours print time + Material gets you easy over $1500. Usually you have to watch them printers all the time and take action if needed. You could get a real transmission for that money and cut it open.
I have a 3D-printer since years and still haven't found ANYTHING useful to do with, besides spending a huge amount of time to produce prototypes of things.
Generally 3D printed parts are often warped, lack structural integrity and biodegrade (getting brittle, discolor, ...) quite fast if exposed to sunlight and or rain. They can't stand heat. (Forget about that Dash mount in your car). The can't stand vibrations and the parts fatigue quite fast, since the bonding between the layers is not as strong as the layers itself.
Like CNC machining 3D printing is a art in itself. You need to do test runs, watch and decide how to tweak the process. This needs experience for the operator. But unlike CNC, where you can run multiple times, even a program stored years ago, and have the same result - 3D printers don't do that. Them things are icky. Humidity and temperature of the shop, Age of the filament (hygroscopic, keep extremely dry), airflow in the shop, pressing your thumbs together and holding your breath for the last 50 seconds of the print...
I think 3D printing in it current state is way overestimated. I should have saved the money I spend for 3D printing and saved some more to get a real CNC.
Mike
Sometimes people do things just because they enjoy doing them. Lots of hobbies are like that.
I don't. I put the SD card in, hit start and leave. I don't even wait for the platform to heat up.
I print almost exclusively in ABS. I've made many parts that are used is structural situations. Interlayer bonding is an issue if you don't have the settings right. As for heat, they can withstand the same amount of heat as any ABS plastic part. They are not as strong as an injection molded part but if your design accounts for that then you can make a durable part.
I take no precautions for storing my filament and I live in a somewhat humid climate. I used to hold my breath, but only for the first few layers. Not sure why you are having such problems, maybe you got some crappy filament or haven't dialed in your settings. Maybe you use PLA?
I have one I built in my early 20's. A few years ago my wife wanted to throw it out but I forbade that. I learned a lot more building that model that most guys would be willing to admit.
1. Prototype molds. It's a doddle to make little molds for injected and pressed parts. The more coarse your printer is, the less viable this is.
Where I work now, we also use them for investments in casting.
2. Replacement parts. Battery backs, clips, brackets, etc...
3. Tactile data visualization. Yeah, no joke. Professionally, I've 3D printed medical images turned into voxel models. Take the bitmap image data, which is usually slices, apply scale, and you've got a volumetric rendering right? That's what the graphics people do. This same process gets you to voxels, which can be converted to a 3D printer model fairly easily with a solid modeling system. Even without one, many 3D printers allow multiple solids and will perform just fine when they are touching. Just tessellate the voxels and throw them at the 3D printer software. I don't know about the hobby level machines, but commercial ones often just deal with this nicely.
4. Concept models. Basically, rapid prototyping. What you do here is combine a 3D printer with some other small tools to form a little model shop. The simplest case is a 3D printer coupled with dremel, various picks, taps, reamers, etc... Hand finishing models can go pretty quick! Add primer, coatings and you can get some very cool looking things quick! If you can add a desktop or small sized mill / lathe, 3D printed parts can be combined with easy to machine metals to make working things.
All that said, I've not been impressed by the hobby / consumer grade machines. Minimum feature sizes are just a bit too big (nice way of saying coarse prints), and the lack of support limits the practical model use cases, though it's not a primary objection, given the printer feature sizes are reasonable. (make the model in parts with fittings and glue bond)
***This model is pretty awesome! Makes a great resume' piece. The nice work he did was optimizing the design to be printable. I think there is some work for people here, depending on their printer. How much work there is may speak to his mechanical skill, and clearly he's a good modeler. Think of this like putting some open source project or other out there.
Nice work.
http://groups.csail.mit.edu/drl/wiki/images/e/e7/Montero_Roundy_Odell_Ahn_Wright_2001_Material_Characterization_of_Fused_Deposition_Modeling_FDM_ABS_by_Designed_Experiments.pdf
http://www.stratasys.com/~/media/Main/Files/FDM%20Test%20Reports/Process-induced%20Properties%20of%20FDM%20Products.pdf