Infared troubles
landonmay13
Posts: 10
I am trying to have my Activitybot do a simple u-turn using infrared roaming. After my fifth try, I turn my robot on and the left wheel is going backwards. I looked at the code and checked the wires to see if it was in the way, but everything seems fine. Why is it doing this and how do I fix it?
Comments
1. I was using the code that went with SimpleIDE
2. This did start going weird in the middle of the test, I turned it off and back on and the wheel was going backwards.
3. It worked perfectly before the 5th try.
4.I am using the reset button then turning all the way off, editing the maze for a few seconds, and turning it back on
5.I did not make any modifications from the code
6.I tried putting in a blank code and then the IR Roaming code, but still wouldn't work.
7.On the 4th try, the robot rammed into a wall
8.I waited overnight
9.I turned it off and back on again.
Does this help at all?
Can I fix this without buying anything?
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xcj5snqzvjss6r9/AADypYlxXNAS3eqXV7OPyOGAa?dl=0
Tell me if you need more accurate pictures or if I need to photoshop the pictures to explain more.
@Parallax:
IMO this is a carryover issue from BoeBot which could benefit from some attention. I was never a huge fan of those two IR LEDs hanging out in the breeze for proximity sensors. Proper alignment & aiming with the IR receivers is pretty important, yet the IR LEDs are constantly tweaked, either by a collision or just pickup up the robot. It would be a major improvement (and not too difficult) to mount the IR LED and receiver together on a small board to keep them aligned. One 4-pin header would make all the connections and might have prevented the problem in this thread. It would also add a sleeker look. A good Matt_G project.
An alternative is to simply use an existing sensor such as http://www.ebay.com/itm/IR-Infrared-Sensor-Switch-Module-for-Arduino-/331446227653 which has an onboard 555 oscillator, pots for adjusting sensitivity, and a red "sense" LED for feedback.
Next, we can talk about laser sensors.
It is a good idea Erco, and one we have thought of before. However, including such a sensor in the kit it would be at cross-purposes with some of the educational goals of the product. The sensors in the Boe-Bot, Shield-Bot, and ActivityBot are of the DIY/home brew variety on purpose, to give people hands-on experience of building the circuits and understanding the components --- a hallmark of our educational program. Mistakes, caveats, and adjustments are part of the learning process. If we make it too foolproof and ready-made, that experience and inherent understanding of what is actually happening is rarely gained.
Also, having the components not in a fixed position allows for different kinds of activities --- one configuration works well for following hands or a lead robot, another for object avoidance, and yet another for edge detection. Using a single receiver elsewhere in the board allows for IR remote control, with whiskers mounting in the front instead. Sometimes it is necessary to change resistor values to get the best results in different environments. Having to adjust a system to in response to a number of environmental factors and applications is also part of the learning goals for a future engineer.
There are ready-made sensors like the one you mention above, in addition to the PING ultrasonic distance sensor, that can be used in place of the DIY component system in a situation where the end functionality is the goal rather than the learning process. Being able to upgrade and expand with other sensors and accessories after learning the basics is another goal of the robot' design.
Posting a downloadable file for users to 3D print such a bracket would be a win-win for all.
In my experience there is no set alignment when it comes to the IR sensors. They often have to be moved around to find that perfect point where they respond well to the test program. This can also change if you add the PING))) Mounting Bracket, which then gets in the way of the IR sensors pointing straight forward. Given the option, I personally would prefer to adjust and move them myself. But I am sure there are some who would prefer the "IR Shield".