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PCB Design help for powering Prop controlling 12V motors - Page 4 — Parallax Forums

PCB Design help for powering Prop controlling 12V motors

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Comments

  • PublisonPublison Posts: 12,366
    edited 2015-01-02 14:10
    Not to worry.

    I think you might have a good PCB, based on all the input from others.

    Order them, solder it up, and see what happens. That's what hobby is all about.

    Later, you can cut some traces, and add a capacitor here, a resistor there,; its a pretty open board as far as real estate.

    .
  • eagletalontimeagletalontim Posts: 1,399
    edited 2015-01-02 14:14
    I think I might just do that since I have already completed this board without a schematic. The next project though, I will for sure go with a schematic first unless is it quite simple.
  • JonnyMacJonnyMac Posts: 9,105
    edited 2015-01-02 14:21
    Even simple projects should start with a schematic. My opinion, of course, and others will disagree.
  • SapphireSapphire Posts: 496
    edited 2015-01-02 14:30
    What photodiodes are you using for the sun tracker. P/N if you have it?

    On the PCB, I would suggest increasing the power trace width to the ADC, it looks a little thin. I would also run the Prop and ADC power trace back to the regulator directly, instead of by way of the Xbee. Use a separate power trace for the Xbee if brief current surges are expected during transmission. Might even consider running it off the other regulator too.
  • eagletalontimeagletalontim Posts: 1,399
    edited 2015-01-02 15:33
    The IR sensors are these : http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?KeyWords=1080-1143-ND

    I bought some for a project I was tinkering with awhile back and they work quite well on the breadboard sun tracker. Thanks for the tip on switching the Xbee to the second 3.3V regulator. I have updated the PCB. Should I add a capacitor to the trace connecting to the XBee to help filter noise that may come from the external items?
  • SapphireSapphire Posts: 496
    edited 2015-01-02 16:15
    I would at least add pads/holes for it, you can always populate it later if necessary.

    Thanks for the link. I guess you're just looking for a voltage change on each one/pair. How big a voltage are you seeing (full sunlight vs. darkness) with 10k resistors?
  • eagletalontimeagletalontim Posts: 1,399
    edited 2015-01-02 16:45
    I have not checked for voltage change since I built the ADC circuit on a breadboard and watched the output in the PST. I have found that I need around 470 ohm in series with the sensor to not max out the ADC in full sunlight. There is a significant swing in the reading from just a few degree angle from direct sun. That is what I am needing.
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