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LED lighting — Parallax Forums

LED lighting

eagletalontimeagletalontim Posts: 1,399
edited 2014-10-22 19:51 in General Discussion
Now that I have my solar panels mounted and charging my batteries, I need to use that power :) In my shed, I currently have 4ea 48" 2 bulb shop lights that I would love to replace with LED's. Since LED's are more directional than radiant, I need to figure a way to light up as much area as possible without causing dark spots or spending hundreds of dollars. The first step is to locate the best LED's for my application. I do not want to replace the bulbs with the LED replacements already available since I am trying to get away from 110V.

My current battery setup is 3ea 12V lead acid batteries wired in parallel so the LED strips need to run directly from the 12V batteries. I am planning on ordering 40" long ~1" wide circuit boards to make installing these strips a little easier. Any input on what LED's would be best? I have a 16ft x 20ft shed with a standard 8ft ceiling to fully light. It needs to be bright enough so I can see the electronics I am soldering in there :)

EDIT :
I found this, but am not sure if this is bright enough or good for what I am trying to do. If I can fit 50 per 40" strip, I should be able to keep each strip around $50 each which is not bad.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MLCAWT-A1-0000-000XE1/MLCAWT-A1-0000-000XE1CT-ND/3074387

Also.... What does this mean : "Lumens/Watt @ Current - Test" ? That is listed on Digikey's search.

Comments

  • Heater.Heater. Posts: 21,230
    edited 2014-10-22 08:43
    LED strips. Lots and lots of LED strips.

    I have a bunch of them. 15 white LEDs per strip. Each strip about a foot long. Each running off 12v.

    They are not as directional as you might think. But you are free to dream up any way of placing and mounting them you like. So spreading the light around is not an issue.

    Now, I have no idea what actual LEDs I have. A local electronics store sells the strips and the surface mount LEDs and resistors as a kit dirt cheap. Sometimes I spend a relaxing hour soldering up a few more.

    Recently I have been wondering about these little filament style LED strips showing up on ebay everywherehttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-Piece-17mA-100-110LM-W-Warm-White-Lamp-19-Chip-LED-Filament-1W-for-Bulb-Light-/361063779096?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Lighting_Parts&hash=item5411140b18

    They are used in retro bulbs like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/-/271581745013

    Looks like we can a lot of interesting things with those.
  • eagletalontimeagletalontim Posts: 1,399
    edited 2014-10-22 09:11
    The problem I am having is selecting the right LED to do what I am trying to do. I have hundreds of LED's already, but even if I wired up every single one of them, my shed would not be lit enough. This is why I am hoping to figure out which LED would be best suited for my application. There are sooo many options and I am not sure what to look for in the specs. I will design everything around the selected LED.
  • Heater.Heater. Posts: 21,230
    edited 2014-10-22 09:25
    I would not fret about the "one true LED". This is an evolving technology and market. Perhaps to early to design everything around the selected LED. As consumer demand ramps up things will be changing. Which it will because good old filaments are basically outlawed and CFL's are Smile.

    I still say LED strips. Lots of LED strips. Get a bunch, from different sources. See what they can do and what you can do with them. We are all treading new ground here.
  • eagletalontimeagletalontim Posts: 1,399
    edited 2014-10-22 09:41
    Is there any key specs that I should look at? There are several listed on Digikey's website, but I don't understand what I am looking at.

    For example :
    CCT (K)
    Flux @ 25°C, Current - Test
    Lumens/Watt @ Current - Test
    CRI (Color Rendering Index)
  • xanaduxanadu Posts: 3,347
    edited 2014-10-22 09:45
    Also.... What does this mean : "Lumens/Watt @ Current - Test" ? That is listed on Digikey's search.

    I'm guessing efficiency, higher the better.

    Don't forget to check out automotive products. 12v automotive LED lighting for fog lights and headlights are a pretty good deal. I have a set of fog lights that dim down to 7.5v that will light up any room. Headlights are even better but they have to be diffused and can get too hot.
  • RDL2004RDL2004 Posts: 2,554
    edited 2014-10-22 11:33
    I wouldn't mess around with individual LEDs for lighting. Start with the strips as Heater said. Google for DIY LED light panels.
  • fredbugfredbug Posts: 3
    edited 2014-10-22 12:45
    I have played with this a little. Search ebay for smd5050 white. They are
    cheap enough to just buy a short strip to test. You might be surprised
    how well they work.
    Bruce
  • Cluso99Cluso99 Posts: 18,069
    edited 2014-10-22 12:50
    The brighter LEDs with 20W, 30W to 100W require a decent heatsink and usually run from 32-36V DC with a current limiter circuit. You can buy the LEDs, heatsinks and drivers (IIRC from 12V) on eBay. They put out very bright lighting - don't look directly at them!!!

    The efficiency of the LEDs is rated at lumens/Watt. Lumens is a measure of the light output and is better than the old Candella measurement. This is how you can compare them to the old light bulbs but you will need to look up precisely what the old globes were outputting. From what I recall, as a general idea, a 7W LED will output equivalent to about a 60W globe. You can search the internet for exact comparisons (in case I am not recalling correctly).
  • eagletalontimeagletalontim Posts: 1,399
    edited 2014-10-22 13:06
    Just found these and I am liking it :)

    http://www.ledlight.com/t8-t10_tube_18w_led_290_smd_3528_12-24v_ac-dc_4_foot_g13.aspx

    A little expensive, but I may give it a shot.
  • RDL2004RDL2004 Posts: 2,554
    edited 2014-10-22 15:23
    Those are intended to replace standard 4 ft fluorescent tubes and require modifications to the fixture, probably not exactly what you need.
  • eagletalontimeagletalontim Posts: 1,399
    edited 2014-10-22 15:59
    I already have 4 foot ballast and converting them would be no problem at all. it would be a whole lot less work just to go ahead and buy those bulbs.
  • jonesjones Posts: 281
    edited 2014-10-22 16:35
    I just replaced some 4 ft T8's with similar 19W LED tubes that run at 110V. Pulling the ballast is trivial. The only hitch is to make sure the connectors on your fixture are non-shunting type (i.e., both contacts are brought out to separate wires). Mine were OK and the conversion just took a few minutes. The only down side is an annoying lag of 2-3 seconds when turned on (not sure what that's about). The light quality (warm white in this case) is fine and they are at least as bright as the T8's they replaced. I've no clue how long they will last, of course, and you've got some extra work to wire them to your 12V source.
  • GordonMcCombGordonMcComb Posts: 3,366
    edited 2014-10-22 16:59

    CCT (K)
    ...
    CRI (Color Rendering Index)

    These two are for color temperature and color rendering, respectively. These specs are notable for all chromatic light sources. Color temperature is somewhat obtuse, but is basically how a light source influences the hue of a reflective object as compared to a reference. The higher the K (e.g. 6500K), the cooler (bluer) the light, and closer to the appearance of daylight. The lower the K, the warmer (redder) the light.

    CRI is how well the light source accurately represents the true color of the object. The higher the value the more accurate. Light sources that lack parts of the spectrum cannot faithfully reproduce the colors that are missing. That leads to inaccurate colors and sick-looking people.

    Both of these values are meaningful only if you care about color rendition. if it were me, and I spent considerable time in the shed, I'd invest in some lighting with good to excellent color rendition. It's less fatiguing on the eyes, and won't make people look sick (unless of course, they are).
  • GordonMcCombGordonMcComb Posts: 3,366
    edited 2014-10-22 17:17
    Just found these and I am liking it :)

    http://www.ledlight.com/t8-t10_tube_18w_led_290_smd_3528_12-24v_ac-dc_4_foot_g13.aspx

    A little expensive, but I may give it a shot.

    According to the specs, these put out 5800-6300K, which is considered white to daylight (bluish) white. That's probably better for electronics work, reading, assembly, and similar activities. These look better than some of the LED strips suggested elsewhere.
  • Mark_TMark_T Posts: 1,981
    edited 2014-10-22 17:34
    That's over 100lm/W, which is good.
  • kwinnkwinn Posts: 8,697
    edited 2014-10-22 19:51
    The Lumens/Watt @ Current - Test is an indication of the efficiency (higher is better), and the color temperature are the two most important specs imo. For lighting it is probably better to stick with led products designed for that purpose rather than using decorative led strings and strips.
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