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Ohhh.......... Ahhh.......... Now I am really excited! — Parallax Forums

Ohhh.......... Ahhh.......... Now I am really excited!

idbruceidbruce Posts: 6,197
edited 2014-10-02 18:38 in General Discussion
I just received a 50 piece PCB drill bet set. All of them with 1/8" shank and 1-1/2" long. I have been waiting a very long time for these.

More appealing than a Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I only have one question: What is the easiest way to manipulate the collars?

Comments

  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2014-10-02 10:56
    idbruce wrote:
    What is the easiest way to manipulate the collars?
    'Didn't know swimsuits came with collars. [rimshot] :)

    Seriously, though, I'm not sure what you mean by "collars" in the other context. Did you mean "collets?"

    -Phil
    '
  • idbruceidbruce Posts: 6,197
    edited 2014-10-02 11:06
    Phil

    As seen in the photo below, I am referring to all the different color depth collars.

    EDIT: They are really kind of stubborn. I have a pinion gear puller that might work well for this.

    PCB bits.jpg
    PCB bits.jpg
    361 x 220 - 31K
  • Heater.Heater. Posts: 21,230
    edited 2014-10-02 11:09
    idbruce,


    Now, I can understand the "50 piece PCB drill bet set. All of them with 1/8" shank and 1-1/2" long."


    I can also appreciate the "More appealing than a Sports Illustrated Swimsuit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"


    Being the mechanical nerd that you and many of us are.


    But, like Phil, I don't understand the question "What is the easiest way to manipulate the collars?"
  • RDL2004RDL2004 Posts: 2,554
    edited 2014-10-02 11:10
    I clamp them in my mini drill press (using the optional chuck) just like any other bit and haven't had any problems. Though if you don't use a decent precision drill press you'll be breaking them one right after another.
  • idbruceidbruce Posts: 6,197
    edited 2014-10-02 11:14
    Heater
    But, like Phil, I don't understand the question "What is the easiest way to manipulate the collars?"

    I am referring to the adjustment or removal of the depth collars
  • RDL2004RDL2004 Posts: 2,554
    edited 2014-10-02 11:22
    None of the ones I have came with those, but I doubt if it's anything more than a sliding plastic ring. I wouldn't trust it, use the drill press to set the depth.
  • idbruceidbruce Posts: 6,197
    edited 2014-10-02 11:26
    Rick

    If I am not mistaken, the depth ring or collar is utilized to set appropriate placement within the drill chuck. Then the depth stop of the drill press can be used consistently.
  • idbruceidbruce Posts: 6,197
    edited 2014-10-02 11:33
    Rick

    For a more complete discussion of the depth collars, refer to the folloing link:
    http://www.thinktink.com/stack/volumes/voliii/reference/depth_setting_rings.htm
  • RDL2004RDL2004 Posts: 2,554
    edited 2014-10-02 11:41
    Ah, so unless you have an automated CNC drilling machine and need to make frequent and quick bit changes, they serve no purpose.
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2014-10-02 11:55
    Unless they're in the way, why not just leave them on?

    -Phil
  • RDL2004RDL2004 Posts: 2,554
    edited 2014-10-02 11:58
    They should make them square or hex shaped, that way they'd at least keep them from rolling around when you lay them down on your workbench. :)
  • DomanikDomanik Posts: 233
    edited 2014-10-02 12:13
    idbruce wrote: »
    with 1/8" shank and 1-1/2" long

    Drill a 5/32" hole 1 3/4" deep into a solid block of wood. Then use an arbor press to push it through. Also a bench vise and claw hammer works -- the metal on the shank seems to be less brittle. Just like pulling a nail, and I only broke a couple.

    Dom.
  • idbruceidbruce Posts: 6,197
    edited 2014-10-02 12:14
    Ah, so unless you have an automated CNC drilling machine and need to make frequent and quick bit changes, they serve no purpose.

    No, they are also perfectly adaptable to a common drill press for the same purpose.
    Unless they're in the way, why not just leave them on?

    That is the problem Phil. They are in my way. I wish they weren't, considering the easy to read size markings, but they are.
  • idbruceidbruce Posts: 6,197
    edited 2014-10-02 12:17
    Domanik

    The block of wood is a good idea. I assume the drill press could push them out or adjust them, as compared to an arbor press.
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2014-10-02 16:56
    I use my drill press as an arbor press all the time. Just make sure you have something soft for the bits to land on. They will break if you simply look at them cross-eyed.

    However, I would not use a "common" drill press to drill holes with these very brittle bits, unless you've spent about $300- $400 for a good chuck:

    Otherwise, you're just going to be breaking bits left and right. Moreover, such bits are designed to be run at very high RPMs -- not those typical of a regular drill press. Nonetheless, they will work at lower RPMs if you keep the feed rate low enough.

    -Phil
  • jazzedjazzed Posts: 11,803
    edited 2014-10-02 17:22
    idbruce wrote: »
    More appealing than a Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Somehow this reminds me of that girl who wore blue candy-stripes appearing in Popular Mechanics years and years ago last century.
  • NWCCTVNWCCTV Posts: 3,629
    edited 2014-10-02 17:37
    More appealing than a Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Not in this life time. They are nice though!
  • idbruceidbruce Posts: 6,197
    edited 2014-10-02 18:38
    Phil

    I was just using the words "common drill press" as an example to explain that a CNC machine is not necessary for the collars to be useful.


    The bearings are so worn in my drill press, I am surprised that black oxide bits are not snapping on a regular basis. :)
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