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HB25 Wire Gauge? — Parallax Forums

HB25 Wire Gauge?

lukeyeslukeyes Posts: 7
edited 2014-10-13 15:44 in Robotics
Hi everyone,

I'm currently redesigning my robot. I'm using the HB-25 motor controllers, transitioning them from powering a DC-550 Power Wheels motor to powering a Quickie P-190 wheelchair motor. I mention this, because I believe I'm going to be pulling more amps during normal operation. That being said, I was wondering what gauge wire I should use for both connection to the power system, and connection from the HB25 to the motors?

Thanks,
Luke

Comments

  • Duane DegnDuane Degn Posts: 10,588
    edited 2014-10-01 07:19
    Hi Luke,

    Good to see you here on Parallax's forum.

    Have you checked the various Amp vs Gauge charts?

    If you'll be pulling about 25A then it looks like you'll want 10 gauge wire. Apparently 12 gauge wire is enough for 20A.

    The HB-25 is a pretty beefy motor controller but I don't know how much current those Quickie motor will pull. Do you know?

    I haven't built large robots like you have but I'm wondering if you'll need an electric scooter motor controller for those motors. Do have a way to monitor the current?
  • Matt GillilandMatt Gilliland Posts: 1,406
    edited 2014-10-01 07:22
    Hi Lukeyes - Welcome to the Forums!

    Figure out from the mfr's spec sheet ( or measure with a meter) how many amps the motors draw (while under the load that you expect), and then you can determine wire size from charts like this.
    Of course you know that we want to see pics of your robot too :thumb:

    -MattG

    Edit:Golly Dang Duane! So while I'm composing eloquence - you dash in and take the ribbon! :lol:
  • lukeyeslukeyes Posts: 7
    edited 2014-10-01 09:01
    Thanks for the suggestion.

    I've done that, and calculated 10 gauge wire. BUT, the screw terminals on the HB-25's are 4-40s, which seem a bit small to use for a ring terminal that will support 10 gauge wire. (I'm using this set)

    So that's why I decided to pop on here and ask. I imagine I'm not the first person to use HB-25's on a wheelchair motor, so I'm curious on what others personally use for this application.

    You can learn more about Artie the Robot by visiting his Facebook page - https://www.facebook.com/artie.the.robot

    or his page at Lets Make Robots (which is more of a build log) - http://www.letsmakerobots.com/robot/project/rt-01
  • lukeyeslukeyes Posts: 7
    edited 2014-10-01 09:07
    I haven't done any spec work myself, but I have a friend who has an R2D2 with similar motors running at 12V, and he's using a Sabretooth 2x25. Artie is still going to be pretty "light" (matter of fact, the chassis + battery will be the heaviest part), so I feel I'm safe with predicting 25A continuous max for non-stalling (more around 23A). I'm predicting Artie's weight to be about 150 lbs MAX. My friend's R2 is about 175.

    With the fuse protection, I don't mind hooking it up for HB-25s, and then if things go wrong and a fuse blows during normal operation, I'll upgrade to a Sabretooth 2x60. That is, unless Parallax has a higher current motor controller, as I'm obviously a fan of Parallax first. (BTW Parallax, you can thank Vern Graner for that one as my HB-25's were a donation from him)
  • Duane DegnDuane Degn Posts: 10,588
    edited 2014-10-01 09:27
    Luke, You can get a current meter good up to 30A at HobbyKing for about $5. If you purchase one from a US warehouse it won't take long to arrive.

    I have a few HB-25's myself but I have yet to use them in a robot.
  • Matt GillilandMatt Gilliland Posts: 1,406
    edited 2014-10-01 12:06
    BTW Parallax, you can thank Vern Graner for that one as my HB-25's were a donation from him
    Thank you Vern! :thumb:
    -MattG
  • ercoerco Posts: 20,255
    edited 2014-10-02 08:08
    Duane Degn wrote: »
    Luke, You can get a current meter good up to 30A at HobbyKing for about $5. If you purchase one from a US warehouse it won't take long to arrive.

    I have a few HB-25's myself but I have yet to use them in a robot.

    Nice find, Duane! Now how about this dual display (v & a) 50A unit for $3.45? I'd double check that wire for high current. :)
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-4-5-30V-0-50A-Dual-LED-Digital-Volt-meter-Ammeter-Voltage-AMP-Power-ES9P-WS-/151414208575
  • PublisonPublison Posts: 12,366
    edited 2014-10-02 08:15
    erco wrote: »
    Nice find, Duane! Now how about this dual display (v & a) 50A unit for $3.45? I'd double check that wire for high current. :)
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-4-5-30V-0-50A-Dual-LED-Digital-Volt-meter-Ammeter-Voltage-AMP-Power-ES9P-WS-/151414208575

    Good to know that it operates in high humidity situations. :)

    Operating Humidity:1080%

  • lukeyeslukeyes Posts: 7
    edited 2014-10-02 14:22
    Ok, so the answer for my original question is to measure it and look it up. So I'm going to go a different route, but first my reasons why.

    1 - HB-25 has a rating of 25 continuous amps.
    2 - 25 amps appears to need 10 gauge wire on the lookup tables
    3 - HB-25 has 4-40 screw mounts for terminals.
    4 - Ring terminals for 10 gauge wire are too large to mount with 4-40 screws.

    So, I have a few questions.

    1 - Has anyone actually RAN the HB-25's on 25 continuous amps?
    2 - What is the largest gauge wire anyone has hooked up to the HB-25's screw terminals?
    3 - Did it need any special kind of connection?
    4 - What is the largest continuous amp draw anyone here has done personally with an HB-25?

    I'd really like to stick with the HB-25, but it seems to be the underdog of 25 amp motor controllers compared to the Sabertooth, which is why I'm asking on this forum first.

    Thanks,
    Luke
  • garyggaryg Posts: 420
    edited 2014-10-02 15:49
    Hi
    When I look at most of the charts, It appears that you need 10 gauge wire.
    However, If you look at the chart Matt suggested (see Post #3), It appears that you only really need about 16gauge wire.
    I'm thinking that the length of the wire run is of great concern.
    On the Post#3 chart, there is a listing for Chassis wiring.
    To me that means wire lengths of 2ft or less.

    I'm for sure, no expert in this.
    I do currently have a couple of HB-25's running on a platform I'm building.
    You are demanding very much more current than my 5amp wiper motors draw, but Take another look at
    the charts from Post#3.

    Just my 2cents worth.
    garyg
  • lukeyeslukeyes Posts: 7
    edited 2014-10-02 18:40
    Thanks garyg,
    just so I have a point of reference, what gauge of wire are you using for your 5 amps on the HB-25?

    Thanks.
    garyg wrote: »
    Hi
    When I look at most of the charts, It appears that you need 10 gauge wire.
    However, If you look at the chart Matt suggested (see Post #3), It appears that you only really need about 16gauge wire.
    I'm thinking that the length of the wire run is of great concern.
    On the Post#3 chart, there is a listing for Chassis wiring.
    To me that means wire lengths of 2ft or less.

    I'm for sure, no expert in this.
    I do currently have a couple of HB-25's running on a platform I'm building.
    You are demanding very much more current than my 5amp wiper motors draw, but Take another look at
    the charts from Post#3.

    Just my 2cents worth.
    garyg
  • Matt GillilandMatt Gilliland Posts: 1,406
    edited 2014-10-02 18:48
    Hi lukeyes-

    I believe the term "Power Transmission Wire" is being mis-interpreted, but I could be wrong. Everything I've found so far called that is in regards to literally the overhead power lines from the utility company.

    "Chassis wiring" is what we're talking about here - which means usually short distances. (As garyg has pointed out)
    On the Post#3 chart, there is a listing for Chassis wiring.
    To me that means wire lengths of 2ft or less.

    The amount of voltage drop and hence power dissipation in the wire is related to both its diameter and (as garyg points out also) the distance traveled - which determines the voltage drop over the length of run.

    Therefore, I think (garyg) is right again: t appears that you only really need about 16 gauge wire. If you're running a longer distance I'd use 14 gauge if that's really what you're pulling.

    And there's really only one sure way to find out, and that is to try it!

    Therefore, If you want to give the HB-25's a shot - go for it. If they don't work for you we'll take 'em back and give you a refund.

    That way we're not guessing, and you have no risk in being the "guinea pig"
    :thumb:

    We know the guy that designed them :tongue: and he's pretty good at what he does. I've used a lot of HB-25's, and never had a failure - but I've never pushed them to their full rating either.

    Try 'em if you like, and let us all know how it went (no fires or explosions please) :lol:

    I mean heck, we say right on it's Product page "Features • 25 A continuous current, 35 A surge @ 13.8 VDC"
    -MattG

    PS. Here's another chart and the top description seems to indicate that Power Transmission Wire is really, very conservatively rated vs. chassis wire https://www.hagemeyerna.com/getdoc/93f497f0-29a2-4a84-bd81-8e529103ced1/Wire--basics-of-Ampacity-or-Copper-Wire-Current-Ca.aspx
  • garyggaryg Posts: 420
    edited 2014-10-02 19:19
    Hi
    I'm using Autocraft part#AC460 Automotive Primary Wire.
    I purchased it from one of the Automotive supply stores here in town.
    It's 18gauge. My wire run is only approx. 12" from HB25 to the wiper motors.
    The package says this should be good for 13Amps at 12Volts.
    It seems to work for me.

    Please do not miss the important info from Matt in Post#13.
    It's important.

    gg
  • Hal AlbachHal Albach Posts: 747
    edited 2014-10-02 19:36
    Just in case you didn't go far enough down the chart in post #3, there is an online calculator that lets you plug in AWG, length, current, and voltage. It returns the resistance and voltage loss you can expect to encounter. Even though it accepts a voltage input, it is mentioned that the voltage drop is purely a function of resistance and current, and I didn't see any change in the drop of a 1 foot length of copper at 120V or 12V.

    A 1 foot section of 16AWG copper at 25 Amps will drop 0.208 Volts, round trip, which, I guess, means 2 feet of wire in total (going to the motor and coming back).
  • HoangTran83HoangTran83 Posts: 52
    edited 2014-10-02 22:15
    Lukeyes,

    I think 12 awg should be fine as long as you keep the length of the wires under 3ft. I have a wheelchair that uses 12 awg wires from the motor controllers to the motors ( under 3ft), and 10 awg from the batteries to the motor controller. The original wire sizes when i first opened up the wheelchair are 10 awg to batteries, and 12awg to motors. I've ran the wheelchair under heavy load with no heating issues. I am using the Crossroad Talon SR motor controller rated at 60Amps continuous, but i think your HB25 should work fine.

    Hoang
    1024 x 576 - 55K
  • GordonMcCombGordonMcComb Posts: 3,366
    edited 2014-10-02 22:30
    Apart from the over-anguishing about the wire gauge, there is enough space between the screw terminal and the leg of the fuse to use a #6 ring terminal with 12AWG or 14AWG, either of which will carry 25 amps for the few feet from the battery. Use a washer under the head of the screw if you need to. For my robot using HB25s, I happened to have #4 terminals, and I used 14AWG wire.

    Do be careful to not the allow the power input terminals to touch the legs of the fuse. Not all #6 terminals have the same outer diameter. Bring your HB25 to the hardware store for visual check.
  • ercoerco Posts: 20,255
    edited 2014-10-03 06:49
    Therefore, If you want to give the HB-25's a shot - go for it. If they don't work for you we'll take 'em back and give you a refund.

    That's a sweet deal, Matt! Maybe it's time toi change your signature to:

    "Ask me about the Lifetime Warranty on the Propeller BOE and HB-25s!"
  • lukeyeslukeyes Posts: 7
    edited 2014-10-03 08:28
    Thanks everyone,

    I'll pick up some 14 gauge wire and some washers for the screw-posts to make sure the ring terminals don't slip through. I know it may seem like I'm over-thinking it, but I'd rather spend the time preparing and researching than the time/money replacing broken equipment and melted wiring. I'm a software guy, so I pretty much fumble my way around hardware/electronics by scouring the internets. I'll post some video of the results to youtube and share the link.
  • lukeyeslukeyes Posts: 7
    edited 2014-10-13 15:44
    thanks for the help/advice everyone. I was able to wire it up this weekend and drive it down the block and back. It's a little slow, but that's because I'm driving 24V motors off of 12V so I don't think it's a current draw issue. 14 awg seems to work fine. I drove it up hill and through the grass in my yard. Didn't get any video because I wasn't able to hold the camera and drive it at the same time.
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