If that was the one in Electronic Design, it is announced, but the download is an notify me when it is released sometime in September pop-up dialog box.
I am trying out Yenka from crocodile, found it on the picaxe website. I think its a pretty clever program and free. Works perfectly under Wine. There is an optoin to use symbolic or very pictorial components.
So Ive tried to show a few in the screen shot !
A lot of circuits ive been making have just been blowing up ! I think mim going to have to start reading the book i got from amazon
Yep, that's the one. Blew through it in little over two weeks. Required to go to ch16 and a couple others (determined by your follow on training) Had I been smart, I could have milked it for almost the spring and summer in San Diego, Ca. Dooooohhhh, On the other hand I only had a month of winter at Great Mistakes. (Great Lakes Naval Base Near Illinois/Wisconsonborder).
Whiteoxe, where are you getting these circuits from? Since you are a novice I would suggest you stick to reputable websites. If you need a specific type of circuit then ask. Circuits might have errors or be a bad design.
CuriousOne, I remember one of my professors telling us that just because the computer spits out some number, it doesn't mean it's valid. Remember that you can't have negative mass.
Genetix, I was only trying out another simulator that I installed under Wine. It has a lot of examples and just too easy to use. In hindsight I should have been making up circuits ive seen in books and elsewhere, I wont be trying ot any of the browser simulators, I don't need to play I need to work
and that 60 Watt iron is not helping me do better soldering than my posted improvement. its just soooo hot. -_-
I have a strange feeling we already had this conversation.
Forget the simulators.
Buy yourself a bucket load of 10c transistors, resistors, capacitors, diodes, LEDs. Rip them out of junk radios and TVs if you don't want to spend money.
Wire them up as per some super simple circuits in tutorials an such.
Measure the currents and voltages through and across the various parts. Change component values. See how they respond.
yes we did have a conversation like that. and ive been using breadboards to wire up some very simple circuits to test out, even purchased some highly magnified reading glasses for both breadboarding(sometimes I think I have it connected but im on the wrong row) and soldering.
That's probly the best way for me, though I find the simulators very good too. or (to)
Just keeping one eye on the news, they were talking about the plane once more that was shot down from somewhere around 30,000 feet i think. My dad went to a memorial in Towoomba as he had two friends both doctors that were on that plane, and from that town.
I have no idea about that soldering station. It looks like a Chinese clone of an old and now discontinued Hakko. Having seen some of the "tear down" videos of such things on the utubes one can never bee sure what you get with them. For example David Jones in his EEVBLOG demonstrated how all that "Anti-Static, ESD Safe" stuff was not true at all.
It is only three times the price of those no-name items from China on ebay. Probably less than three times the cost once delivery is taken into account.
It comes from an old and respected brand and it has favorable reviews all over the utubes.
It also seems to pump out 60W, a useful lot more than other such low end stations.
And finally, its as sexy as hell. I love the design, the colours, the mass, the soldering iron stand separate from the control box, the lovely light weight cable to the iron itself.
Sadly we don't seem to be able to get the previous non-digital model with the satisfying big knob on the front any more.
And this from an old skin flint who has survived with any old crappy soldering iron for three decades!
Pretty sexy little station for $170 it would want to be. and a password lock on it ??? I like how you can use the station to test the tip temperature and adjust if you need. I just dont have the money or need. But Im getting tired of my iron even just practising. It really is too hot. I think Ill get something a little better. BTW, I kept looking on ebay at more solutions, there was nothing particuarly special at all about the one i chowed you. (showed)
I have no idea about the password lock. Seems that when they use these things for real production the quality control guys don't want the shop floor workers screwing with the soldering temperature settings. I'm sure it's not a problem. And if it is, well, we can always rip the MCU out of it a stick a Propeller in there:)
If cash is a problem I would forget the soldering station idea and just find a nice iron that plugs straight into the mains. I am using a Weller iron here at the moment that I'm sure did not cost more than 30 euros. I was quite happy using that until I started watching David Jones. Damn him.
I'll try and remember to post back to your soldering thread when I get by new sex pot, err, soldering station.
yep, that is the plan to get a better iron only, with tips than can be changed. I thought you were Australian for some reason, but you post products that cost pounds and taslk in euros. so you must be an Englishman. and I found that soldering iron here at Littlebird for $99, maybe you should have us ship it over to you
THis is the first look at anything on LTSpice. I am not sure whats going on, how to make this work . It's got a nice feature when you mouse point at a wire or something you get a little info of whats going on. Seems to me that 5volts , close enough are being put out. Is this from two 3.3 volt pins. I think thats the reading I am getting off two inputs ? But I really don't know. yet.
It feels like a tough intro to a simulator or to even wiring, I should not blame a simulator, I guess thats the least of my problem.
Maybe if you could add in a dc motor Id more easily understand what Im looking at ?
Whiteoxe, Snap Circuits are good if you just want to play around. As for an iron get whatever you can afford. A cheap 30W iron will give you better results than the torch you have.
belive it or not, that is just the kind of thing my mind has been trying to convince me to do for a month or two. but its more expensive than a simulator the simulator idea is recent. but is there much difference in snap circuits...jaycar has something similar, I wish I'd kept the kit it wasn't cheap !
I know that circuit is putting out between 5 and 6 volts but I don't quite get it. and I didn't expect to this time. theres a ton of information I have yet to read, not that im saying I have to read the whole ton. but some experimentation with the bits I do read is I think how to go forwards thx.
I'm not sure I know what you are asking. There is only one model of camera module for the Pi supplied by the Raspberry Pi foundation. It connects to the tiny camera connector on the Pi. As a far as I know if you want any anything else it has to be a USB camera.
that's all I wanted to know, was asking for a brother actually. he's using it for a media centre but seemed very curious when I told him about your camera !
that im trying to simulate. this particular simulator is easy to use in that i can most easily find the components. there couldbe morev components but for the moment this will do.
as for my soldering , its ok when I only use it for a minute at a time. then it gets too hot and solder starts to run and board begins to burn. but i think ive said enough about it now., just ive been doing a little more thismorning. same results.
In normal switching configurations always ground the emitter and put the load in the collector. Your circuit will look like it works but it's in a current limited emitter follower configuration which is good for buffering a voltage signal (less 0.6V drop) while providing the current gain to drive lower impedance loads such as in audio or video.
For switching apps you are only concerned about the current so the LED goes in the collector with a current limit resistor of course. You will find that the base resistor (the top one) only needs to be around 10K as I = V/R = 6-0.6/10K = 540ua * Hfe (current gain) = 0.54ma * 100 (min) = 54ma. But your LED current limit resistor is way too low, some people think LEDs need 20ma but that was the normal limit for the old low efficiency types and most LEDs only need a few milliamps so that resistor should be around 1K. The bottom resistor is not really a voltage divider due to the diode clamping nature base emiiter (when grounded) so this is not required when driving from I/O but doesn't hurt if it's like 33K or so. At 3.3V the base resistor could to be around 4K7 but normally I just make these around 1K and this ensures that the transistor is fully saturated (turned on as hard as it can be).
So 1K--> base, 1K-->LED--->collector, emitter grounded
BTW, try to use LTspice, it is a real simulatorand very easy to use (once you get used to it) whereas Yenka is designed for introducing electronics to high school students.
Thanks Peter, yor right , the Yenka feels a bit like a toy when using it. though its so so easy to use. I ran LTspice first, just got frustrated at finding components. it feels more like a pro tool so I will have to figure it out. if you recall, there ws a whole list of simulators posted by a few blokes here. Its tempting to try them all. but I suspect if I can learn LTspice , and I haven't put in much effort ,that's the way I want to go.
thanks for the milliamp current lesson , before yourself and Duane started mentioning this I only ever gave my thoughts to volts. Im playing with the simulator to see what affect resistor's have on voltage and current. I always end up thinking about water I'm so backwards or unlearned at times I was wondering if batteries could have a contents label , like "contains 100 grams of electrons" or has "1000,000,000,000 electrons" well think of a dam as a battery. there is no current until its gate is opened but you measure the dams potential in megalitres but that doesn't really work and nor does the analogy of a big dam having more charge than a small dam, when you think the smaller dams outlet may be much lower so there is more pressure and current can be generated. its a bit silly I know. However I do get confused by statements such as the electronic device will draw as much current as it needs if there is enough available. If that was true a LED would not blow. The dam operators try to calculate how much current is needed for the rivers and cities . If they let loose too much and don't apply enough resistance then things are going to break Anyway, I best get back to practical matters one issue at a time or i'll trigger my myotonia congenital of the brain and fall over. (see fainting goats if you really need a laugh)
Charge is basically a number of electrons => an amount of water.
Voltage => Water pressure.
Current => Flow of water
Resistance => Viscosity of water slowing it's progress through pipe, putting a restriction in the pipe slows it more.
Inductance => The storing of energy as the kinetic energy of moving water. Water has mass. Moving water has energy = half mass times velocity squared. Flowing water we said was like electric current. Stop that water flow suddenly and that mass of water slams into the end of the pipe spiking the pressure up. You probably heard pipes knocking, that is what that is. Stop the flow of current in an inductor and the voltage spikes up.
Capacitance => Like filling up a balloon with water. The elasticity of the balloon tries to push it back out again.
I like the Inductance and Energy paragraph, and spiking of voltage.pressure, perhaps I can link energy to power in a moment. Don't think I took in the Viscosity, oh wait, I thought you were saying electrons can have different Viscositybut your talking about qne value and how the conductors affect it. I had to read it a couple of times to iron out my thinkings
Viscosity is friction in a fluid. That friction is what is slowing water down to a halt in a loop of pipe. Without that friction the water would circulate for ever. So it goes that resistance is slowing down current in conductors.
Peter, the KIM-1 User's Manual has a circuit very similar to that except it uses a speaker instead of an LED.
Usually you see the load connected to the collector but I've seen some circuits wired this way.
Peter, the KIM-1 User's Manual has a circuit very similar to that except it uses a speaker instead of an LED.
Usually you see the load connected to the collector but I've seen some circuits wired this way.
Yes, as I mentioned also but not for switching so much, more for analog so that the speaker can be driven by a voltage and in the KIM-1 they have the transistor turned on through a 3K3 to 5V and the I/O is supposed to reduce the voltage on the speaker from 4.4V down to 2V to give it a 2.4V swing, but the overall DC is not very good for the speaker. BTW, the current limit resistor is in series with the speaker, not the collector.
These water analogies are fun and informative up to a point, but the ionic thing about them is pure water is a non conductor (terrible play on words I should apologise)
Yes, as I mentioned also but not for switching so much, more for analog so that the speaker can be driven by a voltage and in the KIM-1 they have the transistor turned on through a 3K3 to 5V and the I/O is supposed to reduce the voltage on the speaker from 4.4V down to 2V to give it a 2.4V swing, but the overall DC is not very good for the speaker. BTW, the current limit resistor is in series with the speaker, not the collector.
Thanks for the explanation Peter. I notice the 2 3.3K resistors form a voltage divider with the middle being 1/2, and I knew that resistor connected to the speaker lower it's volume but I didn't know it was a current-limiting resistor. How did you calculate those 4.4V and 2V values?
Whiteoxe, water water everywhere and not drop to drink.
Comments
I am trying out Yenka from crocodile, found it on the picaxe website. I think its a pretty clever program and free. Works perfectly under Wine. There is an optoin to use symbolic or very pictorial components.
So Ive tried to show a few in the screen shot !
A lot of circuits ive been making have just been blowing up ! I think mim going to have to start reading the book i got from amazon
Sorry to go off topic........
http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php/156485-Free-Useful-Online-Digital-Circuit-Simulator
http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php/133676-Online-Circuit-Simulator
CuriousOne, I remember one of my professors telling us that just because the computer spits out some number, it doesn't mean it's valid. Remember that you can't have negative mass.
and that 60 Watt iron is not helping me do better soldering than my posted improvement. its just soooo hot. -_-
Forget the simulators.
Buy yourself a bucket load of 10c transistors, resistors, capacitors, diodes, LEDs. Rip them out of junk radios and TVs if you don't want to spend money.
Wire them up as per some super simple circuits in tutorials an such.
Measure the currents and voltages through and across the various parts. Change component values. See how they respond.
Blow them up. Melt those wires. "Burn and learn".
That's probly the best way for me, though I find the simulators very good too. or (to)
what do u think of this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TNI-U-INSTRUMENTS-60W-THERMO-CONTROL-ANTI-STATIC-SOLDERING-STATION-AT936B-/360726565540?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item53fcfa92a4
I have no idea about that soldering station. It looks like a Chinese clone of an old and now discontinued Hakko. Having seen some of the "tear down" videos of such things on the utubes one can never bee sure what you get with them. For example David Jones in his EEVBLOG demonstrated how all that "Anti-Static, ESD Safe" stuff was not true at all.
I have however come to a conclusion today....
I'm going to buy myself a Hakko FX-888D soldering station. Like this : http://www.batterfly.com/shop/hakko_fx-888d?gclid=CLSA0MnY_78CFcLPcgodQh4A-g
It is only three times the price of those no-name items from China on ebay. Probably less than three times the cost once delivery is taken into account.
It comes from an old and respected brand and it has favorable reviews all over the utubes.
It also seems to pump out 60W, a useful lot more than other such low end stations.
And finally, its as sexy as hell. I love the design, the colours, the mass, the soldering iron stand separate from the control box, the lovely light weight cable to the iron itself.
Sadly we don't seem to be able to get the previous non-digital model with the satisfying big knob on the front any more.
And this from an old skin flint who has survived with any old crappy soldering iron for three decades!
you should post more pics when you have used it ?
If cash is a problem I would forget the soldering station idea and just find a nice iron that plugs straight into the mains. I am using a Weller iron here at the moment that I'm sure did not cost more than 30 euros. I was quite happy using that until I started watching David Jones. Damn him.
I'll try and remember to post back to your soldering thread when I get by new sex pot, err, soldering station.
tere are so many cheap wicks, what do I look for ? http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_odkw=solder+suckers&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR3.TRC2.A0.H0.Xsolder+wick&_nkw=solder+wick&_sacat=0
THis is the first look at anything on LTSpice. I am not sure whats going on, how to make this work . It's got a nice feature when you mouse point at a wire or something you get a little info of whats going on. Seems to me that 5volts , close enough are being put out. Is this from two 3.3 volt pins. I think thats the reading I am getting off two inputs ? But I really don't know. yet.
It feels like a tough intro to a simulator or to even wiring, I should not blame a simulator, I guess thats the least of my problem.
Maybe if you could add in a dc motor Id more easily understand what Im looking at ?
everyone must have gone to bed
I'm not sure I know what you are asking. There is only one model of camera module for the Pi supplied by the Raspberry Pi foundation. It connects to the tiny camera connector on the Pi. As a far as I know if you want any anything else it has to be a USB camera.
I'm talking bout this: http://www.raspberrypi.org/product/camera-module/
Its an NPN C337
that im trying to simulate. this particular simulator is easy to use in that i can most easily find the components. there couldbe morev components but for the moment this will do.
as for my soldering , its ok when I only use it for a minute at a time. then it gets too hot and solder starts to run and board begins to burn. but i think ive said enough about it now., just ive been doing a little more thismorning. same results.
For switching apps you are only concerned about the current so the LED goes in the collector with a current limit resistor of course. You will find that the base resistor (the top one) only needs to be around 10K as I = V/R = 6-0.6/10K = 540ua * Hfe (current gain) = 0.54ma * 100 (min) = 54ma. But your LED current limit resistor is way too low, some people think LEDs need 20ma but that was the normal limit for the old low efficiency types and most LEDs only need a few milliamps so that resistor should be around 1K. The bottom resistor is not really a voltage divider due to the diode clamping nature base emiiter (when grounded) so this is not required when driving from I/O but doesn't hurt if it's like 33K or so. At 3.3V the base resistor could to be around 4K7 but normally I just make these around 1K and this ensures that the transistor is fully saturated (turned on as hard as it can be).
So 1K--> base, 1K-->LED--->collector, emitter grounded
BTW, try to use LTspice, it is a real simulatorand very easy to use (once you get used to it) whereas Yenka is designed for introducing electronics to high school students.
thanks for the milliamp current lesson , before yourself and Duane started mentioning this I only ever gave my thoughts to volts. Im playing with the simulator to see what affect resistor's have on voltage and current. I always end up thinking about water
Charge is basically a number of electrons => an amount of water.
Voltage => Water pressure.
Current => Flow of water
Resistance => Viscosity of water slowing it's progress through pipe, putting a restriction in the pipe slows it more.
Inductance => The storing of energy as the kinetic energy of moving water. Water has mass. Moving water has energy = half mass times velocity squared. Flowing water we said was like electric current. Stop that water flow suddenly and that mass of water slams into the end of the pipe spiking the pressure up. You probably heard pipes knocking, that is what that is. Stop the flow of current in an inductor and the voltage spikes up.
Capacitance => Like filling up a balloon with water. The elasticity of the balloon tries to push it back out again.
A switch => A water tap.
A generator => A water pump.
Usually you see the load connected to the collector but I've seen some circuits wired this way.
Yes, as I mentioned also but not for switching so much, more for analog so that the speaker can be driven by a voltage and in the KIM-1 they have the transistor turned on through a 3K3 to 5V and the I/O is supposed to reduce the voltage on the speaker from 4.4V down to 2V to give it a 2.4V swing, but the overall DC is not very good for the speaker. BTW, the current limit resistor is in series with the speaker, not the collector.
Thanks for the explanation Peter. I notice the 2 3.3K resistors form a voltage divider with the middle being 1/2, and I knew that resistor connected to the speaker lower it's volume but I didn't know it was a current-limiting resistor. How did you calculate those 4.4V and 2V values?
Whiteoxe, water water everywhere and not drop to drink.