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Parallax Schmartboard Solder Question — Parallax Forums

Parallax Schmartboard Solder Question

NWCCTVNWCCTV Posts: 3,629
edited 2014-06-28 05:29 in General Discussion
I am getting ready to solder up my Schmartboard and have a question. The instructions say to use Lead Free solder. However, I only have lead solder at the moment and want to know if it is OK to use that. I really do not want to run down the road to the Shack during rush hour if I do not have to. I will order some lead free this weekend so I can get with the times!!!!

Comments

  • 4x5n4x5n Posts: 745
    edited 2014-06-27 16:28
    NWCCTV wrote: »
    I am getting ready to solder up my Schmartboard and have a question. The instructions say to use Lead Free solder. However, I only have lead solder at the moment and want to know if it is OK to use that. I really do not want to run down the road to the Shack during rush hour if I do not have to. I will order some lead free this weekend so I can get with the times!!!!

    I wouldn't worry about it. In my EE days leaded solder was all there was. When soldering careful not to inhale the fumes and be sure to wash your hands well before handling food. Here at home I have lead solder and lead free solder and find that the solder with lead is easier to work with but I don't see intentionally buying any more solder with lead.
  • PublisonPublison Posts: 12,366
    edited 2014-06-27 16:30
    NWCCTV wrote: »
    I am getting ready to solder up my Schmartboard and have a question. The instructions say to use Lead Free solder. However, I only have lead solder at the moment and want to know if it is OK to use that. I really do not want to run down the road to the Shack during rush hour if I do not have to. I will order some lead free this weekend so I can get with the times!!!!

    Leaded is OK. It melts a a lower temperature. Easier to solder.

    I did my Schmartboard with Kester 63/37 solder.

    Now where can I get leaded Gas? :)
  • Martin_HMartin_H Posts: 4,051
    edited 2014-06-27 16:37
    I'm not an expert on schmartboards, but the instructions I read said that they are primed with lead free solder. From what I've read when leaded solder mixes with lead free they alloy and change the melting point a bit unpredictably. It could make cleaning bridges between pins harder.

    Honestly I suspect that it will work as long as the iron is hot, the tip is clean, and you use extra flux.
  • RDL2004RDL2004 Posts: 2,554
    edited 2014-06-27 16:39
    The fumes from lead free solder are actually worse than leaded because the flux has to be more aggressive. Also, there is no lead in the fumes from leaded solder but you should still avoid breathing it.
  • PublisonPublison Posts: 12,366
    edited 2014-06-27 16:46
    Martin_H wrote: »
    I'm not an expert on schmartboards, but the instructions I read said that they are primed with lead free solder. From what I've read when leaded solder mixes with lead free they alloy and change the melting point a bit unpredictably. It could make cleaning bridges between pins harder.

    Honestly I suspect that it will work as long as the iron is hot, the tip is clean, and you use extra flux.

    Tip temp needs be a little hotter, but it flowed just fine. I think I set mine to 675F.

    And lots of flux. :)
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2014-06-27 16:47
    I always use leaded solder as a primer for unsoldering lead-free-soldered joints. By mixing with the lead-free solder and lowering the melting point, it makes the job sooo much easier. But that's just an aside to the original question, the answer to which is, "Go ahead and use leaded solder. You won't have any problems, and soldering will probably be easier."

    -Phil
  • NWCCTVNWCCTV Posts: 3,629
    edited 2014-06-27 17:03
    So the Propeller Chip and EEPRO supposedly have solder already on the board. What temp does lead free solder melt at? I have my iron set to 700 Degrees F and it is not cooperating.


    EDIT: I have suction on my soldering station that does a pretty good job of pulling in the fumes. Also, my back door is wide open!!!
  • 4x5n4x5n Posts: 745
    edited 2014-06-27 17:06
    RDL2004 wrote: »
    The fumes from lead free solder are actually worse than leaded because the flux has to be more aggressive. Also, there is no lead in the fumes from leaded solder but you should still avoid breathing it.

    Personally I've long felt that the reason not to breath the fumes given off when soldering was the flux and having that harden in my lungs would probably be bad! :)
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2014-06-27 17:15
    NWCCTV wrote:
    I have my iron set to 700 Degrees F and it is not cooperating.
    You're probably just not getting good thermal contact, or else there's inadequate flux. I would recommend using leaded (63/37 rosin-core) solder as a primer to get the flow started.

    -Phil
  • Duane DegnDuane Degn Posts: 10,588
    edited 2014-06-27 17:33
    NWCCTV wrote: »
    So the Propeller Chip and EEPRO supposedly have solder already on the board. What temp does lead free solder melt at?

    You'll still need to add your own solder.

    I generally have my iron set to 720 degrees but keep the contact time short with the Prop pins. I know from experience the Prop can be damaged if the hot iron is left on a pin too long.

    Have you soldered these sorts of chips before? I've gotten used to soldering surface mount Props but the first few I did were a challenge.
  • NWCCTVNWCCTV Posts: 3,629
    edited 2014-06-27 18:27
    Have you soldered these sorts of chips before?
    I have, just not prop chips. I purchased a couple of test kits for SMD soldering. I was able to complete them and they worked great so I figured would work on my Schmartboard since I could really use it right now. I got the Prop chip soldered in but have issues with the EEPROM. Going to take a break, wait for the rain to stop and walk the dog. Will come back to it when relaxed!!!
  • WBA ConsultingWBA Consulting Posts: 2,934
    edited 2014-06-27 22:46
    RDL2004 wrote: »
    The fumes from lead free solder are actually worse than leaded because the flux has to be more aggressive. Also, there is no lead in the fumes from leaded solder but you should still avoid breathing it.

    While that may be true for some brands of solder, it is not a blanket truth. The no-clean solders that I use have the same flux core for both alloys. At work, we use the same no-clean flux and the same water soluble flux for wavesoldering Tin Lead and Lead Free boards.

    The most typical lead free solder, SAC305, is liquidus at 217 C and is normally hand-soldered with 700 degree tips. When I soldered a Prop Schmartboard a couple years ago, I added a bit of liquid flux and it worked fine. Lacking liquid flux, I would do as others suggested, and add some fresh solder that as a no-clean flux core. Rosin core is fine, but there are many newer types that have much better performance like Kester 275.
  • PJAllenPJAllen Banned Posts: 5,065
    edited 2014-06-28 05:29
    I have these, too, the sort that are all done up except for the eeprom.
    The tip really has to get down into that channel. It's supposed to be "easier" with those, I guess, but having made the best of the "hard way" for so long, these moved me to intemperate language.
    Perhaps the best candidates for schmartboarding are those who know nothing else?
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