Mounting the unmountable
How do you mount stuff like an XBee or EMIC that has no mounting holes when there is no breadboard to hold it?
The only thing I can think of is using female headers soldered to perf board and drill holes in the perf board for stand off screws.
I'd rather not use double or single sided tape. Thanks.
The only thing I can think of is using female headers soldered to perf board and drill holes in the perf board for stand off screws.
I'd rather not use double or single sided tape. Thanks.
Comments
Another alternative is to use Polymorph to add mounting holes.
I will order some polymorph, I would like something a little more permanent to test out. I'm sure it will come in handy for other stuff as well.
I was thinking about framing them in ePVC. Cut a grove in the ePVC that the boards edge could slide into, but some of the boards have components close to the edge so it would seem with those boards there are very few options.
The only other thing I can think of is a zip tie through holes, but that wouldn't be good for something like a gyro or accelerometer. Right now I haven't mounted either of those because I don't have this mounting issue sorted. I see a lot of projects where people solder the pins to proto and perf board. Even with three different solder removal tools I still do not fell comfortable soldering stuff down at this point.
I wouldn't use hot glue unless it's the low temp stuff (225 degrees F versus about 350+), and for that expect it to come off eventually.
Your question is pretty vague, especially since you do not mention the type of mounting surface or the desired mounting orientation.
However, for the sake of discussion, let's assume the mounting surface is a piece of plywood and the mounting orientation is perpendicular to the plywood. If I wanted a sturdy mount that would allow quick removal, first I would wire my device with connectors like these (http://www.pololu.com/category/70/crimp-connector-housings). Then I would sandwich one connector between two pieces of aluminum with each piece of aluminum having two mounting holes and screw the aluminum pieces to the plywood, thus binding the connector between the aluminum pieces and securing the circuit board to the plywood.
Should be on the wall over every workbench...
@
I mentioned mounting holes and stand offs, I guess specifically I'd like to mount them to anything I can drill a hole in.
I have and use all of those connectors you linked. I pull them out of computers and servers on their way to recycle. Can't go wrong to get the plastic for free! I just got some multi-color ribbon cable because the all gray was a pain. I also ordered a crimp tool for the connectors, I've been using a small needle nose for years on end so it should be a nice treat!
I like the idea of using the connector to secure the device for some devices that is what I will do. For others like a 3 axis accelerometer I'm just not sold on any method other than finding a sensor with mounting holes on the board.
I sure wish all parts were sold with mounting holes, even one hole in an odd spot beats no holes at all.
I am glad you liked the idea, however keep in mind that I mentioned aluminum, a conductor which will cause shorts if allowed to touch the board, so you may also want to use tape. Another option would be some stout plastic.
I hear ya there!!! Agreed.
On clean surfaces it only takes a dab and it holds firmly but can be removed with a steady hand and an exacto knife.
It worked really well when you needed to have something that would keep heavy components with long leads from vibrating or moving around.
It was handy for adding revisions to PCBs in the field back when PCBs could be larger than most laptops today. When you needed to add a long wire to a board you would just dab a bit of RTV at a few places so the wire did not stick out and catch on other boards in a rack.
Bruce, everything I have custom built has been a huge short potential. Metal can be annoying if the wiring and mounting isn't up to par it's lights out. I've been using aluminum chassis with ePVC on the interior lately it seems to be a good combo and less shorting potential.