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What would you do? (lipo laptop charging situation) — Parallax Forums

What would you do? (lipo laptop charging situation)

xanaduxanadu Posts: 3,347
edited 2014-02-21 03:19 in General Discussion
I've got this weird situation on my hands and don't know what to do. All names are fictional.

Background Info:

Acme sells us 50 laptops every four years, the laptops are great. Their care program for accidental damage is about two week turn around time for a totaled laptop. The laptops cost around $2800 each. We have some people that use them plugged into AC all day, and some mobile people that use an external dual battery charger. They swap packs 2-3 times a day.

The Issue:

About six months ago the external dual chargers started charging the batteries for an hour or so then tripping some fail safe. Blinking red status LED, and charging stops. It seems to be random and not have anything to do with the dual battery chargers AC input side.

Importantly, the laptops have no issues charging the batteries, only the external dual pack chargers have a problem. Because of all that and swapping AC power supplies, I assumed it was the chargers and they were not under warranty. I am really good at troubleshooting issues like this. Acme's tech support said they never heard of anything like it before.

I ordered a couple new batteries to test out, and they do the same thing. So the boss takes it upon herself to order 15 new dual chargers at $80 ($1200) which includes the AC supply as well.

New chargers, same deal. So I call Acme tech support and they say well it must be the batteries so and she orders 50 new batteries at $120 ($6000)!

We ended up keeping it all just to get through the day. Fast forward a couple months.

I come to the determination that the people who use the laptops are not gentle with plugging in the batteries. It's not a drop in style charger, you plug the connector in and kind of snap it off. I noticed a lot of the plastic around the connector on the battery is broken. So I think the external chargers may notice this while the charger built into the laptop does not. The only other variable is the AC side, and again there is no way that is it.

So basically it comes down to people being to rough. Acme would have to know about it if we had all bad stuff so would other people. That is the only thing I can think of.


My Question:

Do you think it would be wise to override a laptop battery charger fail safe by continually "rebooting" the AC side? Doing this seems to work fine and the batteries will eventually charge if you reboot the charger about once an hour. They also wouldn't be out $7200. Whatever is causing the charger to fault cannot be determined, but it isn't hot or anything. It could also only happen when people are there and not overnight. I am at a total loss what do you think?

Comments

  • kwinnkwinn Posts: 8,697
    edited 2014-02-18 20:37
    It's a tough spot to be in. Perhaps you could do some testing with a mix of old and new chargers and batteries to see if there is a pattern to the problem. Maybe an excuse for a propeller project to monitor the testing.

    To be honest, my first thought was to suggest what I did when I needed to get over 8 hours of run time for my laptop. Since I already had an 18V cordless drill with 2 batteries and a charger I scrounged up a bad charger to get the contacts for the battery, soldered a cord with barrel connector to the contacts, and ran on one battery while the other was charging. Worked like a charm, although it might not be too practical in your case.
  • LoopyBytelooseLoopyByteloose Posts: 12,537
    edited 2014-02-19 00:24
    Laptop battery issues are complex. And I suspect that they are intentionally made so to create a 'black box' barrier to the user being able to hack into the system. Some of this may be due to selfish protection of turf by the manufacturer, some of it may be due to trying to prevent lithium cell fires by wrong use.

    But it really comes down to several components that have to be right.

    a. An outboard charger that also works as an alternative a/c mains power source even if the battery is not present.
    b. A lithium cell battery pack which includes thermal sensing and state of charge sensing to optimize use of the battery, and to maybe acquire and report history performance of the battery pack.
    c. A portion of the laptop's BIOS is specifically written to address lithium cell power. It monitors heat, state of charge, presence of the the charge, choices for power conservation, fan operation, and more.

    So it is not a simple system to fool around with. Some brands can accept a simple generic replacement for a power supply; while others actually verify that the power supply is their brand and will accept no other... even with appropriate voltage and current.

    Historically, there have been periods where manufacturer's got the designs wrong and either a lot of chargers were defective or a lot of battery packs were defective. My early EEEpc had a wall wart that was prone to failure. Early Compac laptops seemed to have had a lot of bad battery packs.

    With my EEEpc, the failure of the wall wart was slow and since I had installed Ubuntu Linux, I was getting a lot of messages from Ubuntu that made no sense. A huge amount of discussion on the internet was then created about fixing the Ubuntu software bug in its battery management software. In other words, perceptions can get really distorted as to where and what is the nature of the failure. One flies off into loading other distributions of Linux, buy a new battery pack, and only in the end finding that it was the wall wart that was the offending device.

    It is often just simpler to take the laptop into a manufacturer's service center and have them deal with the problem. If they get it wrong, you can demand they take back the parts they sold you unnecessarily. If you are trying to do it on your own, you may throw a lot of money in several directions that shouldn't have been pursued.
  • xanaduxanadu Posts: 3,347
    edited 2014-02-19 08:58
    kwinn wrote: »
    It's a tough spot to be in. Perhaps you could do some testing with a mix of old and new chargers and batteries to see if there is a pattern to the problem. Maybe an excuse for a propeller project to monitor the testing.

    To be honest, my first thought was to suggest what I did when I needed to get over 8 hours of run time for my laptop. Since I already had an 18V cordless drill with 2 batteries and a charger I scrounged up a bad charger to get the contacts for the battery, soldered a cord with barrel connector to the contacts, and ran on one battery while the other was charging. Worked like a charm, although it might not be too practical in your case.

    That is pretty cool actually cordless drill batteries are rugged and would make good packs for all kinds of stuff I bet.

    The only Propeller project I saw here was to mount a relay in places of the AC switch on a power strip and have a RTC+Prop timer scheduler. Then I thought it should probably be CE and UL listed etc etc and found a nice programmable timer online. Plus I'm still trying to figure out this log table stuff...
  • xanaduxanadu Posts: 3,347
    edited 2014-02-19 09:05
    Loopy, I agree completely. I'm chalking this up to the charger being to sensitive. I would imagine that since the charger does not turn on in fault mode there is some fault threshold being exceeded over time. The laptops charge that very same battery just fine, so it has to be the charger/firmware issuing the fault.

    I'm not going to install a timer, it's not even my problem anymore. I was little upset someone spent $7200 I guess lol.. They're going to have to live with it as it is, and I will push to get more authority over purchasing.
  • Jack3Jack3 Posts: 55
    edited 2014-02-19 09:50
    Don't know the exact situation, that isn't real clear, but I gather everything is fine if the batteries are charged in the laptop but if an external charger is used it won't charge up the batteries....???

    If I get that right, would it be possible to use the laptop running off of an inverter in the field when possible and unplug as you need to leave that source?

    Lipo batteries are really sensitive and one bad cell can tell a charger to kick off. I don't know these kinds of systems well, but others I use have a system that continously balance the cells within the pack. If one cell goes bad the pack will fail.
  • potatoheadpotatohead Posts: 10,261
    edited 2014-02-19 10:17
    Seem to me the trouble is mechanical. The chargers are not getting contact on all pins, or a sensor on the connector isn't triggering due to the broken plastic.

    Do the new batteries work with the old chargers?

    If so, you might try a thick rubber band to insure a connection, and or understand what a connector sensor, if present, is looking for.
  • xanaduxanadu Posts: 3,347
    edited 2014-02-19 15:07
    Jack3 wrote: »
    Don't know the exact situation, that isn't real clear, but I gather everything is fine if the batteries are charged in the laptop but if an external charger is used it won't charge up the batteries....???

    If I get that right, would it be possible to use the laptop running off of an inverter in the field when possible and unplug as you need to leave that source?

    Lipo batteries are really sensitive and one bad cell can tell a charger to kick off. I don't know these kinds of systems well, but others I use have a system that continously balance the cells within the pack. If one cell goes bad the pack will fail.

    That's right the laptops charge the batteries fine. The external dual pack charger after about an hour will stop charging them. The mobile users don't need to charge in the field. They aren't out long enough to need to, there is a battery station where everyone swaps out packs.

    Two different buildings/charge stations, 150 batteries, 30+ chargers, 50 laptops, none of it is working properly except plugging the laptop into AC.
  • xanaduxanadu Posts: 3,347
    edited 2014-02-19 15:22
    potatohead wrote: »
    Seem to me the trouble is mechanical. The chargers are not getting contact on all pins, or a sensor on the connector isn't triggering due to the broken plastic.

    Do the new batteries work with the old chargers?

    If so, you might try a thick rubber band to insure a connection, and or understand what a connector sensor, if present, is looking for.

    The new and old batteries and chargers match and are compatible. There are two brands of batteries both doing the same thing as well. Some of the plastic is broken on most of the batteries and at this point that is all there is to go on. It's not bad enough to cause a short though a lose connection might be possible.
  • FranklinFranklin Posts: 4,747
    edited 2014-02-19 15:46
    Some of the plastic is broken on most of the batteries and at this point that is all there is to go on. It's not bad enough to cause a short though a lose connection might be possible.
    Could we see a picture?
  • xanaduxanadu Posts: 3,347
    edited 2014-02-19 16:06
    You know I've been scrounging for a battery with broken pieces and have none here.

    Here is a not broken one:

    attachment.php?attachmentid=107019&d=1392854641

    This is the DC side of the external charger.

    attachment.php?attachmentid=107020&d=1392854641

    A red flashing light means it is charging a pack below 20%, it's the status indicator not the charging indicator that is blinking red though. There isn't anything in the manual about red flashing light only solid, and Acme tech support says, "it must be the batteries."
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  • potatoheadpotatohead Posts: 10,261
    edited 2014-02-19 16:58
    we really need to see a broken one, along with a close up of the AC charger mating end connector
  • xanaduxanadu Posts: 3,347
    edited 2014-02-20 15:16
    Thanks everyone for the comment. I'm giving up on this and letting our rep deal with it. This isn't something I work on and I never said, "buy thousands of dollars worth of stuff for me to troubleshoot." I was really just quite frustrated with the person that did that and trying to make good out of a situation. It's not my place to setup something to reboot on a regular basis, I wouldn't do it with any other device why start with a lipo charger...

    Above I mentioned the status LEDs blink red, when in fact they stay on solid, long day.
    potatohead wrote: »
    we really need to see a broken one, along with a close up of the AC charger mating end connector

    This one isn't in too bad of shape, some are worse. Not all are broken. So, if it has something to do with broken batteries, they would have to be "breaking" the chargers to not work with the non-broken batteries as well.

    attachment.php?attachmentid=107038&d=1392937428

    Here is the external charger plugged into a battery.

    attachment.php?attachmentid=107039&d=1392937428

    Here's a video of what happens.

    [video=youtube_share;Rv7cePnLtEs]

    So something about the external charger doesn't like these batteries, when they charge just fine in the laptop. Across the board....
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  • potatoheadpotatohead Posts: 10,261
    edited 2014-02-21 00:04
    The broken plastic may not support the spring connection for the terminal on the end, but they are both soldered together... At the least, I would bend one of those slightly to insure contact, just as a sanity check.

    I mentioned it, because we had a similar issue with a charger and a couple of batteries, and it turned out the laptop case, with it's battery snaps and such, insured a great connection where the charger didn't always get one. In that case, it was both a crappy connection, and a connector sensor / switch not being engaged, forcing a low energy charge, safe state. Never would fill the battery. Worn / broken plastic would fail to trigger the "yeah, it's connected" switch.

    Yours have more engagement between the terminals, which seems favorable. Not likely to be mechanical, particularly given the batteries across the board fail. Annoying as all get out, particularly as I don't see a sensor / switch on your setup. It's just crappy gear. :(

    Well, thanks for the picture!
  • LoopyBytelooseLoopyByteloose Posts: 12,537
    edited 2014-02-21 03:19
    xanadu wrote: »
    Loopy, I agree completely. I'm chalking this up to the charger being to sensitive. I would imagine that since the charger does not turn on in fault mode there is some fault threshold being exceeded over time. The laptops charge that very same battery just fine, so it has to be the charger/firmware issuing the fault.

    I'm not going to install a timer, it's not even my problem anymore. I was little upset someone spent $7200 I guess lol.. They're going to have to live with it as it is, and I will push to get more authority over purchasing.

    Perceptions of damage and throwing money at the problem in a wholesale fashion lead to the premature replacement of a lot of digital electronics.

    I have an ASUS wifi router loaded with custom Linux firmware. It suddenly started to act strange and I was about to start over with a new router. But some investigation indicated that router wallwarts are the 'sacrafical lamb' when you get local lightning strikes on your AC mains. So I just replace the wall wart with a better one and all is well.

    The trick to establish an intelligent and thorough means of investigation if you are going to manage your money wisely in repair or replacement situations. There is a whole wasteful culture out there that just won't do this and buys a complete new unit.
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