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Playing around with WS2812 LEDs — Parallax Forums

Playing around with WS2812 LEDs

RagtopRagtop Posts: 406
edited 2013-12-16 17:32 in General Discussion
This wasn't quite a full project, more playing around so I thought
I would post video here if anyone was interested in these amazing little lights.

It is of me soldering up some WS2812 leds and running Jon McPhalen's driver
to test them.

Comments

  • xanaduxanadu Posts: 3,347
    edited 2013-12-16 11:40
    Yes, agreed these LEDs and Jon's code are a lot of fun. The Tiki display is really cool looking!

    I had a 1M 72 LED strip. That's 216 LEDs running on THREE WIRES!
  • Duane DegnDuane Degn Posts: 10,588
    edited 2013-12-16 13:18
    Have you seen the "B" version of the LEDs? They only have four pads. I saw them mentioned in a post by Tubular and I purchased some off ebay.

    Now that you've had a PCB made you can design another one for your LEDs. If you make the boards small they don't cost much.

    I hope you've seen my WS2812 project?

    I think I vote for the none clear version of your Tiki heads. They look a bit more menacing.
  • RagtopRagtop Posts: 406
    edited 2013-12-16 13:37
    Actually came across your video as a youtube recommendation after uploading and was wondering if OSH park
    cuts out the circular boards or do you have to do that after you get them?


    No I haven't seen the b version, I assume it leaves off the reference voltage and the extra unused pin? That would
    greatly simplify the wiring.
  • Duane DegnDuane Degn Posts: 10,588
    edited 2013-12-16 14:07
    Ragtop wrote: »
    Actually came across your video as a youtube recommendation after uploading and was wondering if OSH park
    cuts out the circular boards or do you have to do that after you get them?

    They come back from OSH Park looking like the board on the left.

    attachment.php?attachmentid=105343&d=1385974999

    I carefully cut out the center disk and use a Dremel to clean up the edges in order to get the board looking like the one on the right. The top board was cleaned up the same way and then populated with caps and LEDs.

    The gerber files had the center section completely cut away. I'm not sure why OSH Park (or the fab house) left the material connected with tabs. I drew the inner circle on the board outline layer (or something like that, it's done with the same tools as the silkscreen shapes, not the "Board Outline" tool).
    Ragtop wrote: »
    No I haven't seen the b version, I assume it leaves off the reference voltage and the extra unused pin? That would
    greatly simplify the wiring.

    Yes, I think the B version is easier to mount but I haven't tried soldering any of the normal (A?) LEDs so I can't compare the difference.

    The down side to not having a voltage reference is the glitches caused by the 3.3V logic. These are the only 5V devices I can think of where I've needed to use a level shifter in order to use it with 3.3V logic.

    I copied AdaFruit's ring layout and only included a cap between every other LED. I don't think I would have had room for a resistor if I had wanted to use the A variety of LEDs.
  • FranklinFranklin Posts: 4,747
    edited 2013-12-16 16:21
    Adafruit has a great assortment of "neopixels" in tape, rings and panels. Take a look here http://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-neopixel-uberguide
  • RagtopRagtop Posts: 406
    edited 2013-12-16 17:32
    I was looking for the B's on ebay and they are pretty cheap. Here is 100 for $26

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=261322802114&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

    If for the tiki thing I didn't need the leds a certain distance apart the pre-wired stripes would be the better way to go. Might still be
    and just not use the in between leds.
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