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Christmas Lights — Parallax Forums

Christmas Lights

dmagnusdmagnus Posts: 271
edited 2013-12-09 13:27 in General Discussion
I think it was last spring or so when somebody mentioned these:
5M RGB 3528 SMD 300 LEDs Non-Waterproof Flexible LED Strip Light Lamp+ IR Remote Less than $10.
The remote is actually only the top half of the one pictured - couldn't find a picture of the one I bought.
Anyway, after blowing snow for an hour this morning when I was putting the tractor away in the shop, I saw these laying on the bench. In the spirit of the season, I brought them in and strung the around my bow window for Christmas lights. Pretty neat, I can sit in my easy chair with the remote and switch colors, patterns and speed.

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Comments

  • ajwardajward Posts: 1,130
    edited 2013-12-07 14:40
    I have a similar set. I installed them around the inside perimeter of my balcony window. You can't see the LEDs from the street, but they almost completely illuminate the white drapes and it looks pretty cool from outside.
  • ercoerco Posts: 20,256
    edited 2013-12-07 19:24
    I posted about them last year and most recently here (first $9 link is to your small remote): http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php/151322-LED-Strips-for-Christmas They do work pretty well. I have a few with both the bigger remote and the smaller remote. The bigger remote has more flash sequences programmed in. I used two strings for indoor decorating, but they are obnoxiously bright, even blinding. There is a dimmer setting which only dims (PWM) on a static (non-flashing sequence) color. For my Christmas party last night I just left them on the "white" setting (all colors on) and dimmed them down as low as they would go. Everyone liked 'em.

    These are the non-waterproof type. I bought a waterproof set last year, tested 'em but never used them. Stored them in a closed box indoors. Took them out this year and the outer vinyl waterproofing layer is all sticky, deteriorating, and getting stiff. Not sure how long they would have actually lasted outdoors.
  • xanaduxanadu Posts: 3,347
    edited 2013-12-07 19:46
    I also ordered a strip. I think they're great, the backing is holding well to a window frame.

    Only one problem, I saw "RGB" and assumed the LEDs were RGB, doh! Knew that was way too good for $10.
  • dmagnusdmagnus Posts: 271
    edited 2013-12-08 05:20
    Yup, I was disappointed, too but you're right, what can I expect for ten bucks. Curious thing with mine. I found a wall wart in my box of wire that supposedly has 12v output (at least I think that's what it says - I should look at it under a magnifying glass). Anyway, I crimped on Andersen Powerpoles to both the wall wart and the control box for the lights. As Erco says, they are very bright and I can't dim these. After a few minutes, the whole string seems to shut down. Except shut down, there is a couple of green LED's left on in each "segment". It does that when I shut it off with the remote.
    I put a meter on the wall wart and it says 18v. Am I overdriving them and that's why they shut down after awhile? I've got another set of lights, controller, etc. I may wire them up today and see if I get the same results. How would I knock down the voltage from the wall wart? I might have to go out and look for a different one and test it before I wire it up...
  • xanaduxanadu Posts: 3,347
    edited 2013-12-08 07:41
    If the wall wart is unregulated it could be you're going from and over volt situation to an under current situation. I tried under current and under voltage for a little while and didn't get any shutting down though.

    I'm showing 1.3A @12v max draw, if I limit the current I can dim it all they way down to around .25a max @12v, then the blues go out then green then red so maybe that isn't it. You can run them around 9v to lower the brightness, significantly less current. Anything less than 8v seems to cause blue to drop. They also seem to work okay from a fresh 9v dry cell.

    Do you have a 12v SLA battery or something to that effect to try it with?
  • dmagnusdmagnus Posts: 271
    edited 2013-12-08 10:47
    Good idea, I've got a battery out of my DR Driveway grader that is in the shop for the winter. All charged up and ready to go. I'll go out and get it and try it with this string.
  • ercoerco Posts: 20,256
    edited 2013-12-08 12:45
    @dmagnus: Definitely go with a battery or regulated supply to limit voltage to 12-13 volts. Hopefully you didn't damage the controller at 18v. I use a neat little adjustable regulated transformerless wall wart, $10 at Fry's. Works perfectly at the 12v setting. I also tried 9v and 7.5v. Mostly works, but some of the colors do fade off at regular intervals.
  • xanaduxanadu Posts: 3,347
    edited 2013-12-08 22:30
    I just noticed something funny about these lights. The IR code for an Onkyo receiver's volume control turns the lights on and off. Volume down is on and volume up is off. Also the play stop rev and fwd buttons change modes.
  • dmagnusdmagnus Posts: 271
    edited 2013-12-09 09:59
    Ah-Ha! I bet my DirecTV remote is messing with my lights, too. Have to do some experimenting...
  • ercoerco Posts: 20,256
    edited 2013-12-09 13:27
    There must be some IR code overlap. When I get a chance I'll try my Sony TV remote on mine.
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