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MicroCNC using multiple FLOPPY drives. — Parallax Forums

MicroCNC using multiple FLOPPY drives.

Clock LoopClock Loop Posts: 2,069
edited 2013-08-31 09:39 in General Discussion

I suppose this could be done with hard drives too. ... .. Super micro?

Comments

  • lanternfishlanternfish Posts: 366
    edited 2013-08-30 01:13

    I suppose this could be done with hard drives too. ... .. Super micro?

    Super micro alright as hdd's heads are 'voice coil' operated. However old CD drives should work.

    What is the stepping resolution of your excellent design?
  • ercoerco Posts: 20,256
    edited 2013-08-30 08:27
    That is FABULOUS! Thanks for sharing the video.
  • GadgetmanGadgetman Posts: 2,436
    edited 2013-08-30 12:22
    Well, in that video it only works as a plotter...
    Is there a cut where it also mills?
    (Lateral milling adds some serious stress to the frame)

    I don't think that video is enough to convince me to return the ShapeOko kit that's on its way to me right now...
  • JonnyMacJonnyMac Posts: 9,107
    edited 2013-08-30 12:37
    I'm with Erco -- that was fantastic.
  • GenetixGenetix Posts: 1,754
    edited 2013-08-30 12:46
    Cool little project that would great for drilling PCBs or machining light plastics.
  • Heater.Heater. Posts: 21,230
    edited 2013-08-30 12:51
    If you can plot you can lay down etch resist on PCBs.

    But checkout all the music played by floppy drives on youtube. Great stuff.
  • prof_brainoprof_braino Posts: 4,313
    edited 2013-08-31 06:58
    Heater. wrote: »
    If you can plot you can lay down etch resist on PCBs.

    Would it be an option to lay down the etch material directly with the print head? Just mark where material is to be removed?

    It seems that might save a lot of issues with handling the chemicals. I have stack of dead CD drives I've been meaning to cannibalize.
  • Martin_HMartin_H Posts: 4,051
    edited 2013-08-31 07:03
    Neat video.
    Heater. wrote: »
    If you can plot you can lay down etch resist on PCBs.

    What sort of software would be required to translate a circuit design into the gcode most CNC machines speak?
  • Heater.Heater. Posts: 21,230
    edited 2013-08-31 07:58
    I have no idea about gcode. Back in the day when I worked on PCB CAD software development we output Hewlett-Packard plotter language (HPGL). That would be easy enough to read and drive home made plotter from. Or perhaps translate to gcode for your existing CNC machine. Do modern PCB packages still output HPGL?
  • GadgetmanGadgetman Posts: 2,436
    edited 2013-08-31 08:32
    There's a few threads about milling PCBs over at the shapeoko forum;
    http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/
    Lots of tips about what software to use.
    Milling as in 'directly cutting the copper from the PCB using a sharp piece of metal spinning at ludicrous speeds'
    There may be tips about laying down etch-resist, too.
    (Haven't really read that much in the PCB section)


    There's also links to and discussions about alternative G-code based controllers.
    (The ShapeOko uses an Arduino with GRRBL code and shield)

    Mount a Dremel or similar in the frame and let the steppers move the PCB up to contact the bit, and you should be able to mill PCBs directly.
    Search out 'Drillman1' on eBay for lots of good deals of endmills suitable for PCB work, and for drill-bits suitable for drilling those pesky holes.
    (Dremel and similar tools use a 1/8" shaft or 'Shank'.)

    But...
    A Mechanical parts kit for the ShapeOko is $299 + shipping(for those ho have or can source motors, Arduino, PSU and wiring)
    A complete kit is $599
    Add $58 for a second motor on the Y-axis(recommended)

    All available on inventables.com

    for EU users, the eShapeOko may be a better choice over at http://makerslideeurope.com/
    They also sell metal wheels to replace the plastic ones used on the ShapeOko, different lengths of Makerslide rails and lots of other goodies...

    My ShapeOko full kit is currently stuck in Customs, so can't really tell if it's any good, yet...
  • LoopyBytelooseLoopyByteloose Posts: 12,537
    edited 2013-08-31 08:41
    I like the project, but tend to side with Gadgetman

    If you are really going to mill on a milling machine or turn on a lathe, small DIY devices sooner or later show their weaknesses.

    At one time, I purchased a Unimat lathe at a bargain price with lots of extras, but even that I found to be too light for nearly everything I wanted to do. I sold it to a fellow that repaired microscopes as all his work was in brass and he claimed that most of the time he would just not use the motor at all, but turn the brass by hand.

    These days, milling and turning plastic is a valid alternative, or even wood. But I would even consider a Dremel tool for my cutting.. it would have to be at least a professional laminate router motor, or a good full-sized router. After all, you invest so much time in the coding of software and building your x-y-z systems that you might as well have capacity to deal with harder materials and have a machine solid enough to last.
  • GadgetmanGadgetman Posts: 2,436
    edited 2013-08-31 09:39
    The nice thing about the ShapeOko is that it's easy to modify it.
    The easiest is to replace the makerslide rails with longer ones.
    Then there's replacing the plastic wheels with steel, and plastic spacers with spacers of aluminium, if you need the accuracy improvement.
    You can replace the belts with diferent types of threaded rods.
    Need a stronger spindle? the DW660 router seems to be a popular upgrade.
    Others are playing with adding a 4th axis.
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