The USB connector was really easy to remove on one of mine since only the tabs to the metal housing had been soldered. The other four pins were still factory fresh. Thoughtful chaps those guys assembling the board.
It's almost like they knew you were gonna hack it...
Under a buck!!! So the only way to use these is to waste a USB cable?
I think you ought to read post #29 again. Erco didn't cut a USB cable, he cut the board after removing the USB connector.
I also removed the USB connector from one of my boards which was easier than normal since only two of the six places which would normally be soldered had been soldered.
For low price you get quite sturdy enclosure, which has enough free space to add your parts too, has effective boost circuitry, charger, and battery protection. Output current is around 950mA, above it starts to sag considerably.
$1.39 with free shipping and Paypal makes it cheaper and as convenient as EBay. 2 amps/28V out and 93% efficiency? We shall see.
Anyone else try these? CuriousOne probably beat me to it already...
@erco: I would be curious to learn of your experience with this board. The first two I tested do not seem to work. I used a known good Li-ion cell for input, but no matter how much spinning of the pot, in both directions, all that appeared on the output was basically the same voltage that was going in. I've been pretty darn happy with ICStation up to now so I'm allowing for the possibility I'm doing something wrong. But it's a very simple board and I handled both of them quite carefully.
Works for me, User Name. A quick test gave me 27V out under load, 2-3 amps in from small Li-Ion battery. I just ordered 3 more. Their last 3 in stock for $1.85. Sorry, never trust a hoarder.
WRT output voltage not changing as you twirled the pot, it's non-linear. Mine sat at 4.02V and it didn't change for a long while until I spun it pretty far counterclockwise. Suggest you try yours again, you might not have twirled enough. When in doubt, TWIRL.
Well... Saw your post and immediately reassembled the necessary stuff. Cranked CCW about ten times more than made sense to my lame brain and, sure enough, the output started going up (and not on account of triboelectricity, either). Thank you, erco-man!
(Once again I gave up too soon on a situation involving DC-to-DC converters from China. And once again erco saved the day. It is high time I made out another check for the twins' education fund.)
I'm no competitor in getting low prices for these, since I don't use them. Tried to use them several times, never satisfied with voltage stability, input ranges, current handling. So, I'm going DIY way for them. I'm using various ICs, and one of my favorite (a bit expensive, but still OK), is LT1513 IC:
1. It delivers constant output even when input voltage is lower or higher than output voltage (SEPIC)
2. Operates from 1.8v to 24v, this means that my gadgets can be run from almost any hobby level power source.
3. Has ability to set the current limit, so in case of failure, I'm sure that there will be no magic smoke from my devices
4. Is enclosed in TO-220 case, can be soldered by hand, no fancy tooling or skills required
Works for me, User Name. A quick test gave me 27V out under load, 2-3 amps in from small Li-Ion battery. I just ordered 3 more. Their last 3 in stock for $1.85. Sorry, never trust a hoarder.
WRT output voltage not changing as you twirled the pot, it's non-linear. Mine sat at 4.02V and it didn't change for a long while until I spun it pretty far counterclockwise. Suggest you try yours again, you might not have twirled enough. When in doubt, TWIRL.
thanks for this advice, i just received 4 of them and none seemed to work - until i twirled madly ccw as you suggested, then hey presto!
Comments
It's almost like they knew you were gonna hack it...
That's a first!
I think you ought to read post #29 again. Erco didn't cut a USB cable, he cut the board after removing the USB connector.
I also removed the USB connector from one of my boards which was easier than normal since only two of the six places which would normally be soldered had been soldered.
Here's a close up of the boost board (from a photo found on my hard drive).
I was using a piece of orange electrical tape on the back of the board to prevent shorts.
I ended up not needing 5V in the wallet project so the board it waiting to be used in another project.
$1.39 with free shipping and Paypal makes it cheaper and as convenient as EBay. 2 amps/28V out and 93% efficiency? We shall see.
Anyone else try these? CuriousOne probably beat me to it already...
It's probably because I didn't enter the discount code "erco"
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400818396234
For low price you get quite sturdy enclosure, which has enough free space to add your parts too, has effective boost circuitry, charger, and battery protection. Output current is around 950mA, above it starts to sag considerably.
They fixed the problem and my six are on the way. BTW, these really look great!
@erco: I would be curious to learn of your experience with this board. The first two I tested do not seem to work. I used a known good Li-ion cell for input, but no matter how much spinning of the pot, in both directions, all that appeared on the output was basically the same voltage that was going in. I've been pretty darn happy with ICStation up to now so I'm allowing for the possibility I'm doing something wrong. But it's a very simple board and I handled both of them quite carefully.
WRT output voltage not changing as you twirled the pot, it's non-linear. Mine sat at 4.02V and it didn't change for a long while until I spun it pretty far counterclockwise. Suggest you try yours again, you might not have twirled enough. When in doubt, TWIRL.
Well... Saw your post and immediately reassembled the necessary stuff. Cranked CCW about ten times more than made sense to my lame brain and, sure enough, the output started going up (and not on account of triboelectricity, either). Thank you, erco-man!
(Once again I gave up too soon on a situation involving DC-to-DC converters from China. And once again erco saved the day. It is high time I made out another check for the twins' education fund.)
1. It delivers constant output even when input voltage is lower or higher than output voltage (SEPIC)
2. Operates from 1.8v to 24v, this means that my gadgets can be run from almost any hobby level power source.
3. Has ability to set the current limit, so in case of failure, I'm sure that there will be no magic smoke from my devices
4. Is enclosed in TO-220 case, can be soldered by hand, no fancy tooling or skills required
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NJR/NJU72501MJE-TE3/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtxdzBvM0rKcRMfLEj9k531jMH/ZdyhJkM=
Vout should be able to provide low current 6V or 9V
As you need 4x 0.1uF, use a array: CKCA43X7R1C104M100AA
Switched Capacitor 5V Boost Converter:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/LM2775DSGR/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsMyYRRhGMFNlArKhJXutcdqG3cY2vDlGs=
dirt cheap but needs 4.7uH part:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/DIOO-Microcircuits/DIO6605BFN8/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuKfYsiLTIqmKq09NSbX1ufzNbosPLOcpA=
adjustable:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/DIOO-Microcircuits/DIO6305BCST6/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtitjHzVIkrqacTN49QGgAl/uD6QWsMchlrP1ioPy5c4A==
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10255
It does work great for powering an RC receiver and a couple servos from a 3.7V LiPo -- for only 1400% more!
-Phil