Strange USB Connector?
erco
Posts: 20,256
I was about to recommend this cute little breadboardable power supply. 5V, 3.3V, USB connection, seems a bargain at $2.39: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prototype-Shield-Signal-Generator-Network-SD-Card-Module-Breadboard-For-Arduino-/310615193368?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item48521bb718
(several items for sale there, you might have to select the power supply from the pulldown menu)
But the USB connection looks odd to me, being a type A female connector. To power from a standard USB connection would require a cable with a type A male at both ends. Never seen one of those cables. Mightn't that be a dangerous cable to have if you randomly plug 2 USB devices together?
Such a cable does exist: http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-2-0-Type-A-Male-to-Type-A-Male-Extension-HighSpeed-Cable-15-ft-15-feet-Black-/261223217010?pt=US_Drive_Cables_dapters&hash=item3cd21df772
Is this odd? Maybe that's why the board is such a steal... but still might be good for someone using a wall wart input.
(several items for sale there, you might have to select the power supply from the pulldown menu)
But the USB connection looks odd to me, being a type A female connector. To power from a standard USB connection would require a cable with a type A male at both ends. Never seen one of those cables. Mightn't that be a dangerous cable to have if you randomly plug 2 USB devices together?
Such a cable does exist: http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-2-0-Type-A-Male-to-Type-A-Male-Extension-HighSpeed-Cable-15-ft-15-feet-Black-/261223217010?pt=US_Drive_Cables_dapters&hash=item3cd21df772
Is this odd? Maybe that's why the board is such a steal... but still might be good for someone using a wall wart input.
Comments
You plug your normal wall wart into the board than then you can use your board to power your QuickStart board through its USB connector (with appropriate jumper on QS).
I doubt the USB connection is intended to be used for power in.
Nevermind. I didn't read the description well enough. You're right. Weird. (Not weird that you're right, it's a weird connector to use on the board.)
We gotta get those kids together!
It's hard to read when you choke on water and it comes out your nose. Thanks!
That sounds bad for a variety of reasons.
Possibly...
@
The 700 mA maximum is probably dependent on how the board is being powered. I do wonder if the USB port is switched out of the circuit if power is coming in from the DC coax jack. If not there is a possibility applying excess voltage (> 5 V) to whatever is attached to the USB jack.
I thought I was buying "USB male A to female B cables" like I had done before.
I didn't notice what I really had, until about a week later when I tried to use one of the cables.
I'm pretty sure this means it could be powered from a computer's USB port if that's what you want to do. By powering it from a PC you may not be able to draw over 500 mA (but don't bet on it, the 500 mA "standard" is not all that standard). I think the 700 mA maximum they refer to is what the circuitry on this board is capable of. That's why I hope the USB jack is disconnected if using the DC input jack, otherwise potentially those 6.5-12 volts could be fed into the PC or other USB power supply if both are hooked up at the same time.
When I get home from work, I will take a closer look at them.
/USB_PWR_EN (6th pin from the right side, upper row) and Ground(1st pin from the right side, lower row)
Or use FTDI FT_Prog Utility to change cbus3 to always low by setting it to: BitBang RDn
At the same time also change Max Bus Power to 500mAmps (as mine had a 90mA setting)
http://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Utilities/FT_Prog_v2.8.2.0.zip
I also tested that you can power the board through usb too ,if you have proper usb cable/y-splitter you get 5v (eg Vin) and 3.3v out
But some usb hosts will not release over 100mA without enumeration.
Step up/step downs quit working, sometimes with full input voltage applied to output. Once, even step up went crazy and delivered 9 volts instead of 5.
AC adapters explode, batteries won't recharge, buzzers wont buzz and so on.
So for active electronics components from ebay, I only buy from u.s. suppliers and only if they sell some NoS or other remnants made by know brands.
Kids do the darndest things!
Card slot was one of these (and all the damage was contained inside): http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-in-1-Multi-Card-Reader-USB-SD-XD-USED-but-Works-FROM-a-Compaq-HP-computer-/161074837677?pt=US_Memory_Card_Readers_Adapters&hash=item2580cef8ad#ht_26wt_917
Same item for less, just $1.38: http://www.ebay.com/itm/MB102-Breadboard-Power-Supply-Module-3-3V-5V-For-Solderless-Bread-Board-HS-/221250141932?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3383893eec
So it is a typo... go figure. That was my first guess, do I win anything?
Two voltage regulators on a board sized to fit into standard breadboards with two power rails on each side. 5.0V supplied to female USB connector. Jumpers allow independent selection of 5.0V or 3.3V to each rail. Master on/off toggle switch cuts power to everything. Power connection is a standard coaxial jack, center-positive. Single green LED power on indicator.
NOT LDO regulators. Keep the voltage input above 7V. I used 7.5V.
My quickie tests show that 6.0V input yields about 4.5V output, not 5.0V.
4.5V input would not quite keep the 3.3V regulator happy, it gave under 3V output.
Edit: There are at least two different boards, minor differences between them. My tests were on the $1.38 board in post #37, which has a slightly different shape and layout than the purely rectangular one in post #1.