uC on a strip?
prof_braino
Posts: 4,313
Anybody try this for a prop?
http://www.instructables.com/id/YABBAS-Yet-Another-Bare-Bones-Arduino-on-Stripb/
If it were $2-$4 without the prop, I would certainly be interested in a "add you own".
I would wish the payout include an option for a FDTI chip, and a 5v regulator.
Would this be doable?
http://www.instructables.com/id/YABBAS-Yet-Another-Bare-Bones-Arduino-on-Stripb/
If it were $2-$4 without the prop, I would certainly be interested in a "add you own".
I would wish the payout include an option for a FDTI chip, and a 5v regulator.
Would this be doable?
Comments
http://www.parallax.com/Store/Microcontrollers/BASICStampModules/tabid/134/ProductID/907/List/1/Default.aspx?SortField=UnitCost,ProductName
A little more than $2 - $4, but it's all there!
I was looking for a lowest cost strip board project, WITHOUT the prop chip. I would get the parts in bulk, and have the kids build them in class.
Minimum Prop support parts:
3x 100nF ceramic caps
3x 33uF electrolytic caps
1x 32kx8 EEPROM
1x 5Mhz crystal
1x L1117-3.3v voltage regulator (assuming you will power from ~5V)
1x 4 pin male header (for PropPlug)
1x 40pin dip socket
1x 8pin dip socket
1x strip/proto board
You can check the qty.1 pricing for each part above at digikey.com, I think you will find it will come to significantly more than $4 before shipping
A PropPlug is about $15, an FTDI chip (that you'd have to surface mount, add connector, pcb etc) would cost more.
...errrrrr - sorry!
-Phil
2110 is a hid-usb and either need support implemented in prop-tool or someone writes a vcp for it.
So, I would replace the 32K eeprom with 64k eeprom;
3x 100nF ceramic caps
3x 33uF electrolytic caps
1x 64kx8 EEPROM
1x 5Mhz crystal
1x L1117-3.3v voltage regulator (assuming you will power from ~5V)
add a 5v regulator;
1x L1xxx-5v voltage regulator (to power from external battery etc)
And maybe a switch to ensure USB power and external battery are not connected at the same time.
1x 40pin dip socket
1x 8pin dip socket
1x strip/proto board
... and remove the propplug and use the FTDI chip directly. Instead of a mini USB, maybe we could hack the end off surplus USB cable and wire it directly.
While the one-off price would be higher than $4 (I'll check the exact numbers next), I'm thinking it could still be less than the $30 for a quickstart or $24 for a mini.
The bulk has been about half of the on-off price. Since its a kit, it could be doable.
Not that my eyes could do much for hand soldering on to surface mount parts, I'm just looking at the prices for now.
Thanks for the list!
Outside Source
Humanoido, in your photo, it looks like the Prop chip is shifted up one hole in the breadboard -- or maybe parallax (small-p) is playing tricks with the image. Also, never leave out the bypass caps!
-Phil
-Phil
It can be used with a DIP Propeller in its current state, just needs the taller style stacking headers.
Some possible issues:
I see that Pin 1 on the Mini's J3 is labeled Rx, so that would be the pin that needs a resistor ?
But the Prop Plug is also labeled Rx on pin 1. So which is the Mini's input pin, 1 or 2?
Does the CTS pin on an FTDI need to be jumpered ? high or low?
Should the DTR pin of the FTDI go to the Mini's Reset?
Can you feed the Mini's 5v on J2-4 with 5v from the FTDI header without hurting the regulator?
Thanks!
p.s. Love that M44D40+ and the PowerTwig! Can an FTDI be used for those?
p.p.s These Chinese power supplies I ran into are handy in that they provide 5 and/or 3.3 v to the 2 rails of a breadboard and/or to a USB plug. They're supposed to be rated at 700 mA, but I find the regs seem to run awfully hot even drawing 350 mA from the 5v side. There's not much copper surface there ;-) Epoxy on some heatsinks? Gob-solder the tabs?
The size of the mini is ideal for small projects just the lack of pins letting it down as an ideal project board., I'm hoping for a quickstart type board with all the pins and usb , eeprom etc minus the touchpads and leds that are not necessarily wanted on every project.
I know this is an impossible request, that's why I made it! Cheating is allowed.
So maybe the cost of two or three battery holders would be an alternative to a power supply and regulators? 2 cells for 2.2 to 3 volts; 3 or 4 cells for 3.6 to 4.5 volts, and for cells for 4.8 to 6 volts. I'll look at this also.
Remember, I plan to take advantage of bulk purchase price, so the one-off cost is just the baseline cost.
I think the EEprom would be required, unless there is a way to unplug the terminal connection without causing a reset.
Is there a way to get the prop to talk directly to the PC USB connection (at 1.5M?)?
I work with both the Propeller and the Arduino, and use an FTDI breakout board that can be switched between 3.3 or 5 volts. It works fine with either microcontroller. I got it from Wulfden and for $18 Brian included a Propeller Multi-BUB which remaps the pins from the Arduino to Prop Plug standard. See http://www.wulfden.org/TheShoppe/pa/index.shtml#P1 and here's the same product at Modern Device: http://shop.moderndevice.com/products/usb-bub
I have an M44D40+ and power twig combo and use it all the time. It's great for fast prototyping on a breadboard.
USB/Charger powered and 1Amp 3.3v VReg
It got 5mhz crystal,eeprom and ftdi uart
How much does it cost for one? How much for a bunch? 64K eeprom?
What would the difference be if it included an 5v regulator, so I could have a single battery pack? (not to be a choosy beggar and all)
I can see breadboarding temporary power and USB interface with such a boardlet, which you then replace with say a battery and you're off and running. But if you remove this board you leave behind a lifeless chip with no clock and no program, right? I can see its utility as a way to breathe life into a Prop chip, which might make sense for the low level classroom, but not for real world rapid prototyping, which is better served by a Prop equivalent of a Nano or Mini, i.e. more like the M44D40.
Somehow I can't imagine students wanting to build only tethered systems.
And if starting to separate everything you end up making the breadboard cluttered again.
If you fry your Prop, easy to replace the dip.
You will power it with microusb-charger or microusb lipo universal Power Extender.
With DIP Prop + above board + small breadboard, the goal is the magic $19
The board is using a cheaper solution:
RTS# is inverted by a software setting and by just having a cap in series to Prop reset, it should reset (I have not tried this yet)
Andy
Wow. Another cool board Tony.
It's got me thinking.