@Publison: If I want to refresh the EPROMs in my Battlezone game, what hardware is required? Sounds like you got the goods...
I assume you make an image off the existing good EPROM and can reburn that into the same or similar chip, and it's likely good for another 20 years?
@erco
I have two programmers. An older one that will go back to 2716's, and a newer one that supports newer chips. I still have two 486 machines to support these programmers, (because one is DOS based).
I also have an UV eraser that will "freshen" up the chips.
Yes, take an image off a good chip, save to file, burn as many as you like.
PM me if you would like me to perform the surgery. Which EPROM was used in Battlezone?
EDIT: Looks like it takes eight 2716's and I found the images here:
Anyone have recommendations for a USB programmer from a company which answers their phone / provides support for their products?
I was trying to find out if the above EPROM programmer needs separate power for 21 volts, 25 volts, etc. or if that is provided by the USB power. With one phone number there was no answer and the phone mailbox was full. The other number a person answered and did not speak English well - said everyone is out of the office, send an email.
Anyone have recommendations for a USB programmer from a company which answers their phone / provides support for their products?
I was trying to find out if the above EPROM programmer needs separate power for 21 volts, 25 volts, etc. or if that is provided by the USB power. With one phone number there was no answer and the phone mailbox was full. The other number a person answered and did not speak English well - said everyone is out of the office, send an email.
Don't know about USB powered programmer, but every programmer I have used in the past generates the VPP (Programming Voltage) on board. No need for an external supply.
EDIT: In the description:
Since the true-USB willem programmer uses USB port for both data communication and power supply, so only one USB cable is needed when working with the programmer. The DB25 LPT data cable is no longer needed. This feature facilitates the portable applications and makes the programmer ideal for use with newer laptops which do not have a Parallel LPT Port.
This leads me to believe all you need is a USB connection that has 5 Volts on it. The external power port is needed for a USB hub that does not supply power through the USB cable, (although I have not heard of one).
I had several 1-bit cars. They started for fall apart at about 100k miles. My computerized 11 year old F-150 has 264K miles and has required very little on-condition maintenance. I do change the oil every 5k miles and have a garage do the 30k mile services. It was a little hard on my Dad (now 91 years old) giving up doing all his own work on his vehicles.
Egads! I've got a 94 Oldsmobile Cutlass I've been restoring. Wonder if I'm new enough to have avoided this.
Jeff
New enough to avoid having to copy the EPROM? Maybe you have a tiny microcontroller that has protected all the code instead so that it can never be copied. That was the next generation after EPROMs were no longer necessary.
Have no fear, the Aussies love to reverse engineer this stuff and keep their automotive gear running better than ever on hacked electronics.
Refurbished EPROMs on Ebay... that sounds a lot like 'refurbished chewing gum'.
I'd have an awful lot of questions about what the seller means by refurbished in either case. I suspect that you just can't refurbish either or you might end up with something that is rather disappointing.
I still love all the 1951-1953 Chevy and GM pickup trucks I owned. I actually could compurehend all the technology involved on each and every one of them. And at the time, there were always parts at your local wrecking yard. The main thing was to replace the door latches right away, you you might fall out on a quick turn.
1. Metallized sticker peeled off the window.
2. Contents throoughly UV erased, setting all bits to 1's.
3. Sticker residue cleaned off with alcohol swab.
4. Leads straightened.
5. Air freshener replaced.
6. Fuzzy dice brushed and de-linted.
7. Nu Kar scent spray spritzed on top.
8. Rain-X applied to quartz window.
OK I found the answer to the additional power supply. The software apparently tells you additional power is required (if needed). And that would be 9 volts (600mA or 1A) through the separate power connector. And I guess from that (or just USB 5V power) it creates whatever higher voltage is needed (21, 25 volts, etc.)
As for refurbished, I once saw a used electric nose hair trimmer at a yard sale. Note it was NOT refurbished, but I suppose an enterprising individual could refurbish such an item.
What I really can not understand is camouflage underwear.
If you are trying to hide in the brush, it is just too little. If you are trying to hide the underwear, it should just be the same color as your skin. If you are trying to hide 'other things' it should just be brown, like Red Fox suggested.
Thank you sir! I would love to avail myself of your kind offer. Schedule TBD, probably not for a while. The game is not easily accessible. When I get to it, I'll first swap around some of the 2114 RAM chips to hopefully get her working, then I can pull the 2716s for the refreshing process. I'm getting ready to leave for China for 2 weeks soon, so this will likely be a June/July project. Thanks for your indulgence!
Thank you sir! I would love to avail myself of your kind offer. Schedule TBD, probably not for a while. The game is not easily accessible. When I get to it, I'll first swap around some of the 2114 RAM chips to hopefully get her working, then I can pull the 2716s for the refreshing process. I'm getting ready to leave for China for 2 weeks soon, so this will likely be a June/July project. Thanks for your indulgence!
PM me with your mailing address and the 2114's will be there for when you get back. Don't let the twins play with them, they are static sensitive.
My silly Battlezone arcade game fired up perfectly tonight, the first time I turned it on since Christmas. Maybe an intermittent caused by an oxidized socket or pin... Hopefully reseating the RAM chips may help, or reflowing the socket connections.
Well at least it works, so RAM and EPROMs are all intact. I check with our electronics lab and they assure me they can refresh my UVEPROMs, so I thank you Publison for your amazing offer, but I probably can take care of things right here. In fact, a few of the techs are pinball/arcade fanatics who are chomping at the bit to help out (and then play) Battlezone.
Furbys launched in 1998. If they have EPROM chips which go bad in 20 years, then they need to be reFURBY'ed prior to 2018.
If I remember correctly, a local store has a sale on BB guns.
That's the ONLY reason ever to buy a furby...
And then it doesn't matter if it's a bit deranged because of bit rot...
Anyone have recommendations for a USB programmer from a company which answers their phone / provides support for their products?
I was trying to find out if the above EPROM programmer needs separate power for 21 volts, 25 volts, etc. or if that is provided by the USB power. With one phone number there was no answer and the phone mailbox was full. The other number a person answered and did not speak English well - said everyone is out of the office, send an email.
Found this in the help file after installing the software:
External DC adapter
The external DC adapter is needed in following situation:
the programmer connected to a un-powered hub.
the programmer connected to a un-powered USB port.
When writing data into NMOS EPROMs failed. Such as 2716,2732 EPROM. This may due to the USB port does not provide enough DC current
A DC well adapter is needed at following specification:
My silly Battlezone arcade game fired up perfectly tonight, the first time I turned it on since Christmas. Maybe an intermittent caused by an oxidized socket or pin... Hopefully reseating the RAM chips may help, or reflowing the socket connections.
Well at least it works, so RAM and EPROMs are all intact. I check with our electronics lab and they assure me they can refresh my UVEPROMs, so I thank you Publison for your amazing offer, but I probably can take care of things right here. In fact, a few of the techs are pinball/arcade fanatics who are chomping at the bit to help out (and then play) Battlezone.
This is great news! Now it doesn't have to go out in the garage with the Corvair.
Comments
Jeff
@erco
I have two programmers. An older one that will go back to 2716's, and a newer one that supports newer chips. I still have two 486 machines to support these programmers, (because one is DOS based).
I also have an UV eraser that will "freshen" up the chips.
Yes, take an image off a good chip, save to file, burn as many as you like.
PM me if you would like me to perform the surgery. Which EPROM was used in Battlezone?
EDIT: Looks like it takes eight 2716's and I found the images here:
http://andysarcade.de/battlezone.html
Just saw this old post:
http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php/144579-ARRGH!-Battlezone-is-Dead!
I have some 2114's that I just tested last year. They appear to be good. Do you need one?
We need to get that running for next Christmas.
EDIT just notice you mentioned this in post# 25
I was trying to find out if the above EPROM programmer needs separate power for 21 volts, 25 volts, etc. or if that is provided by the USB power. With one phone number there was no answer and the phone mailbox was full. The other number a person answered and did not speak English well - said everyone is out of the office, send an email.
Don't know about USB powered programmer, but every programmer I have used in the past generates the VPP (Programming Voltage) on board. No need for an external supply.
EDIT: In the description:
This leads me to believe all you need is a USB connection that has 5 Volts on it. The external power port is needed for a USB hub that does not supply power through the USB cable, (although I have not heard of one).
Yup, thems the ones.
Thank Phil.
John Abshier
New enough to avoid having to copy the EPROM? Maybe you have a tiny microcontroller that has protected all the code instead so that it can never be copied. That was the next generation after EPROMs were no longer necessary.
Have no fear, the Aussies love to reverse engineer this stuff and keep their automotive gear running better than ever on hacked electronics.
I'd have an awful lot of questions about what the seller means by refurbished in either case. I suspect that you just can't refurbish either or you might end up with something that is rather disappointing.
I still love all the 1951-1953 Chevy and GM pickup trucks I owned. I actually could compurehend all the technology involved on each and every one of them. And at the time, there were always parts at your local wrecking yard. The main thing was to replace the door latches right away, you you might fall out on a quick turn.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Refurbishment_%28electronics%29
Makes no sense in the context of this thread.
2. Contents throoughly UV erased, setting all bits to 1's.
3. Sticker residue cleaned off with alcohol swab.
4. Leads straightened.
5. Air freshener replaced.
6. Fuzzy dice brushed and de-linted.
7. Nu Kar scent spray spritzed on top.
8. Rain-X applied to quartz window.
'Good as new!
-Phil
Same answer as one of my favorite jokes. What's the difference between an oral thermometer and the "other" type?
Thanks, I'll be here all week. One final question:
Do old guys wear boxer or briefs?
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Depends.
As for refurbished, I once saw a used electric nose hair trimmer at a yard sale. Note it was NOT refurbished, but I suppose an enterprising individual could refurbish such an item.
-Phil
If you are trying to hide in the brush, it is just too little. If you are trying to hide the underwear, it should just be the same color as your skin. If you are trying to hide 'other things' it should just be brown, like Red Fox suggested.
Thank you sir! I would love to avail myself of your kind offer. Schedule TBD, probably not for a while. The game is not easily accessible. When I get to it, I'll first swap around some of the 2114 RAM chips to hopefully get her working, then I can pull the 2716s for the refreshing process. I'm getting ready to leave for China for 2 weeks soon, so this will likely be a June/July project. Thanks for your indulgence!
PM me with your mailing address and the 2114's will be there for when you get back. Don't let the twins play with them, they are static sensitive.
Well at least it works, so RAM and EPROMs are all intact. I check with our electronics lab and they assure me they can refresh my UVEPROMs, so I thank you Publison for your amazing offer, but I probably can take care of things right here. In fact, a few of the techs are pinball/arcade fanatics who are chomping at the bit to help out (and then play) Battlezone.
If I remember correctly, a local store has a sale on BB guns.
That's the ONLY reason ever to buy a furby...
And then it doesn't matter if it's a bit deranged because of bit rot...
Found this in the help file after installing the software:
This is great news! Now it doesn't have to go out in the garage with the Corvair.
No room. There's already a rare "Omega Race" cocktail arcade game by the Corvair.