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Water pressure sensor reccomends? — Parallax Forums

Water pressure sensor reccomends?

JonathanJonathan Posts: 1,023
edited 2013-07-05 11:32 in Accessories
Hi All,

I'm looking for a pressure sensor to measure the level of water in a 2500 gallon tank, aprox. 10 feet of water or about 4.3 PSI of pressure. I've fooled around with DIY capacative sensors in the past and they drift over time. I'm hoping for sub US$50 and will go as high as $100 if need be. I've seen some automotive ones that might work but resolution would be low. 0-5 V output would be nice, but I'm willing to work with any type of output.

Thanks!

Jonathan

Comments

  • ElectricAyeElectricAye Posts: 4,561
    edited 2013-05-07 08:35
    I've worked with Honeywell sensors, but not exactly the kind you're asking about. For example, I'm used to working with 5 inches of water pressure, not 5 psi.



    However, maybe have a look at the following???
    http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/40PC006G2A/480-4252-ND/2832020

    These sensors listed below, which output 50 mV, etc. could be run into an ADC, for example, or simply have their signal amplified:

    http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?FV=fff4001e%2Cfff800b3%2Cfffc01e0%2C24001fb&k=pressure+sensor&vendor=0&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ptm=0&fid=0&quantity=0&PV218=4&stock=1
  • JonathanJonathan Posts: 1,023
    edited 2013-05-07 11:13
    Looks good, but at one place in the data sheet it says water is OK, then it says that port 1 is compatible with dry gases only. Which do you think it is? I'll try to contact Honeywell and determine.

    Thanks a ton, at least it's a possibility.

    Jonathan
  • ElectricAyeElectricAye Posts: 4,561
    edited 2013-05-07 13:36
    Jonathan wrote: »
    Looks good, but at one place in the data sheet it says water is OK, then it says that port 1 is compatible with dry gases only. Which do you think it is? I'll try to contact Honeywell and determine.
    ...

    The data sheet for P1 also goes on to say "media must be compatible with epoxy adhesive." You should definitely check with Honeywell for whatever your application is, but I'm guessing normal water would be okay with that. If you can use a small diameter pressure line leading from the bottom of the tank to your sensor, then perhaps you can leave the line full of air, or at least partially full of air, so the contact at the sensor itself is mostly damp air. If you keep the line full of air, you might need to make some small adjustments for temperature variations and compressibility of the air - much of that depends on your particular set-up.

    Also, if you're sure that the tank level changes less than the full 10 feet, then you could use sensors with a smaller range and better resolution. Or, you might find that the differential pressure sensors work better than the gauge pressure types. Hope that helps.
  • Duane DegnDuane Degn Posts: 10,588
    edited 2013-05-07 14:03
    How wide it the tank?

    If it's as wide as it is tall, you could use a float on a lever.

    I recently started working on my magnetic encoder project again, and I realized one possible use for these encoders would be a sort of water proof poteniometer. The encoder chip and other electronics could be sealed in a water proof enclosure and the magnet would be allowed to pivot above the senor chip on the outside of the enclosure. This would require some means of holding the magnet over the sensor while still allowing the magnet to pivot.

    The magnet would be attached to one end of a rod with a float at the other end. The float would cause the magnet to rotate which rotation would be picked up by the sensor. Depending on the thickness of the tank material, the encoder sensor could be mounted on the outside of the tank.

    Just thinking out loud (with my fingers), what about some variation of a float with magnet. You could have reed switch or hall-effect sensor in a line down the side of the tank. On the inside of the tank use a magnet attached to a float that travels up and down a tube next to sensors. You might have a hard time getting good resolution this way but I'd think it wouldn't be hard to within six inches of the actual fluid level (assuming you use 20 sensors).

    Have you tried an ultrasound sensor? They're pretty easy to use. Just mount it above the liquid pointing down.

    There's also all sorts of laser and light sensor set ups that come to mind when I start thinking about ways of measuring liquid. I think I recall PJ Allen having an idea of how to measure a liquid with a laser and light sensors.

    If you describe the tank (and liquid) in more detail I'm sure we come up with a lot more harebrained ideas.
  • W9GFOW9GFO Posts: 4,010
    edited 2013-05-07 14:10
    If you keep the line full of air, you might need to make some small adjustments for temperature variations and compressibility of the air.

    I don't think that would be an issue. If the air warms up and expands it will push the water in the tube down a bit and will equalize with the water level in the tank.
  • ElectricAyeElectricAye Posts: 4,561
    edited 2013-05-07 14:57
    W9GFO wrote: »
    I don't think that would be an issue. If the air warms up and expands it will push the water in the tube down a bit and will equalize with the water level in the tank.

    Imagine a clear plastic tube 10 feet long, the top of which is sealed with a pressure sensor, and the bottom of which is wide open.
    Now imagine submerging almost the entire 10 foot long tube straight down into the water. You take a deep breath and dive into the water and swim down to the open end. Because the water pressure has compressed the air somewhat, you will notice that the water level inside the tube is not at the open tip of the tube but is instead Y inches higher than the tip, at a point we'll call PY.

    Question: is your pressure sensor measuring the water pressure at the level of the open tip of the tube or is it measuring the pressure at the same level as PY?

    Imagine you are under water holding a piece of tubing that is full of water and sticking 5000 feet straight down toward the depths of the ocean. If you now screw that 5000 foot long tube onto the end of your 10 foot long tube, will the measured pressure jump to a reading equal to 5010 feet of water depth?
  • JonathanJonathan Posts: 1,023
    edited 2013-05-07 15:08
    The tank is 10' or so feet tall and 8' or so wide. At work for a 48 hour shift so I can't check ATM. The liquid is just water, it is my drinking and agricultural supply. I live in a rural area, so it is the usual set up of well, tank and pressure pump. I don't need great accuracy, even 1 foot increments would be fine. I live off the grid and am upgrading a controller for the water system. It keeps track of volume pumped from the well, number of cycles, average run time of the pressure pump and so on. This way the system can spot unusual water usage patterns and either notify or shut the entire system down. If I am away and got a large leak the pressure pump could run the batteries flat, just for one example. I want to add the water depth to make sure that I find out about a problem while I still have plenty of water. I have a large garden and chickens and so running out of water would be a real bummer.

    As to ultrasonic, I've used plenty of them, but I haven't found a waterproof module. I could work with just a waterproof transducer, I have built ranging systems with my own driver and receiver before. Seems like there ought to be a simple pressure sensor that would work. I have played with pots and floats a long time ago but had the same issue of not finding a sealed pot to resist water damage.

    I'll contact Honeywell and see what they say.

    Thanks a ton for the input folks! Keep it coming, there has to be a decent solution for a common problem.

    Jonathan
  • JonathanJonathan Posts: 1,023
    edited 2013-05-07 15:09
    The tank is 10' or so feet tall and 8' or so wide. At work for a 48 hour shift so I can't check ATM. The liquid is just water, it is my drinking and agricultural supply. I live in a rural area, so it is the usual set up of well, tank and pressure pump. I don't need great accuracy, even 1 foot increments would be fine. I live off the grid and am upgrading a controller for the water system. It keeps track of volume pumped from the well, number of cycles, average run time of the pressure pump and so on. This way the system can spot unusual water usage patterns and either notify or shut the entire system down. If I am away and got a large leak the pressure pump could run the batteries flat, just for one example. I want to add the water depth to make sure that I find out about a problem while I still have plenty of water. I have a large garden and chickens and so running out of water would be a real bummer.

    As to ultrasonic, I've used plenty of them, but I haven't found a waterproof module. I could work with just a waterproof transducer, I have built ranging systems with my own driver and receiver before. Seems like there ought to be a simple pressure sensor that would work. I have played with pots and floats a long time ago but had the same issue of not finding a sealed pot to resist water damage.

    I'll contact Honeywell and see what they say.

    Thanks a ton for the input folks! Keep it coming, there has to be a decent solution for a common problem.

    Jonathan
  • ElectricAyeElectricAye Posts: 4,561
    edited 2013-05-07 15:20
    Jonathan wrote: »
    ... I don't need great accuracy, even 1 foot increments would be fine....

    How about this: you have a pole made of clean PVC. At each one-foot interval, you've got a float with a sealed magnet on top and a sealed Hall effect switch suspended above it. When the water level rises, it raises the float up a couple inches until it bumps into the Hall switch. The switch then sends a signal to whatever your system might be. When Hall switches 1, 2, 3, 4 are active and switches 5, 6, 7, etc. are not, then you know your water level is somewhere above 4 feet but below 5 feet. Everything is sealed, nothing moves but your floats (each one just a couple of inches), your resolution ain't great, but might that work well enough?
  • Duane DegnDuane Degn Posts: 10,588
    edited 2013-05-07 15:32
    Jonathan wrote: »
    As to ultrasonic, I've used plenty of them, but I haven't found a waterproof module.

    I was thinking of mounting the ultrasound sensor above the water, pointing down. I wouldn't think it would need to be water proof. Just use it to measure the distance to the top of the water.

    If you decide to measure air pressure in a tube as suggested by EA, I think one of these pressure sensors would be a better choice for your purposes than the Honeywell sensors. Besides costing less, they measure differential pressure so changing atmospheric pressure shouldn't give you false readings. It only has a 0.3psi range which I believe translates to about 9.6 feet of water (I seem to remember 1 atm is about 32 feet of water). You'd connect the sensor to a tube full of air that reaches down to the bottom (or near bottom) of your tank.

    I have a couple of these sensors myself I've been meaning to use them to measure airspeed of my radio controlled aircraft.


    Never mind. I was thinking 0.3 atm not 0.3 psi.
  • RforbesRforbes Posts: 281
    edited 2013-05-07 16:29
    Hi Jonathan,

    I'd go with Duane Degns' recommendation. It's a little more than you want to spend but it's well worth it. Here's a link to the one I use for measuring the water level in our public water reservoir. The serial output is good, works with propeller without a hitch. And you can get a temperature compensation sensor with it as well (I also use it for better accuracy throughout the seasons.)

    http://www.maxbotix.com/Ultrasonic_Sensors/MB7386.htm

    However, if you like the ideas involving tubes and have a fish tank bubbler, you can route your output of the bubbler through a Tee connection.... one outlet of the Tee connects a tube that goes to the bottom of your tank with an airstone on it. The other connection of the Tee connects to a pressure transducer. The bubbler pumps away and the tube builds up X amount of pressure depending on the water level- Higher water level=higher pressure in the tube... This will let you put your transducer anywhere you want, and you "calibrate" the pressure at the transducer by adjusting the height of the transducer relative to the bottom of your tank. The transducer can be replaced with a pressure switch for on/off signals at X water level. Here's a link to a typical air pressure switch that could be used (Double check the psi limits, etc) http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CLEVELAND-CONTROLS-Air-Sensing-Switch-6XPX7?Pid=search

    Robert
  • JonathanJonathan Posts: 1,023
    edited 2013-05-07 17:28
    I like the look of that US sensor. Another nice aspect is that it can output a pulse, saving me from adding an adc to the system, which would be nice. I'm a little short of real estate on the board and I would likely have to add it as a daughter board and then shoe horn that into the enclosure. It's on the ragged edge of my price range, but doable.

    Although I wasn't really thinking about switches, as opposed to a sensor. A low level alarm would work, I don't really need to know tank level, just when I have a problem. Maybe I'll look into that.

    But I do wanna play with the cool weatherproof sensor now!

    Jonathan
  • Duane DegnDuane Degn Posts: 10,588
    edited 2013-05-08 07:12
    Jonathan wrote: »
    I like the look of that US sensor. . . .

    But I do wanna play with the cool weatherproof sensor now!

    Do you really need a weatherproof sensor?

    Maxbotix sells nice stuff but there are lots of inexpensive ultrasound sensors. They're plenty cheap enough that you could try a few to see if they can handle the environment of your tank.

    If need be you could replace the normal transducer with a waterproof one (fourth one down the page). I'm not sure if you'd need to modify the circuit to use a waterproof sensor or not.
  • JonathanJonathan Posts: 1,023
    edited 2013-05-08 07:29
    Duane,

    Yeah, I do think it's going to need to be weatherproof. The working end is hanging in a water tank, a high humidity environment if there ever was one. Then it needs a sealed run back to the pump shed for the wiring. I'm guessing that substituting waterproof transducers will reduce range, because I bet you have to drive the sealed ones harder to make the same strength sonic signal.

    I'm leaning towards the US sensor, even though it ain't cheap. It's going to be easy to install and should last for years. I need a rock solid solution that will stay on the job, I'd have to truck in water if I had a well pump failure and didn't know until I ran out of water. . One nice thing about the US sensor as opposed to a switch is that I can verify that if the well pump is running that the tank is actually filling. I'll also be able to double check the flow sensor by calculating fill rate and total gallons from the US sensor.

    There, I just talked myself into it. I'm going to go order. Thanks to all!

    Jonathan
  • ElectricAyeElectricAye Posts: 4,561
    edited 2013-05-08 08:04
    Jonathan wrote: »
    ...

    There, I just talked myself into it. I'm going to go order. Thanks to all!

    Please keep us posted on how well this works out for you.
  • JonathanJonathan Posts: 1,023
    edited 2013-05-08 08:09
    There I did it. I ended up going with a #7380 at the reccomend of the tech guy. I have to say that they answered the phone promptly, put me right through to tech, he knew his stuff and then ordering was a snap. So props for their customer service. I hope the sensor works as well.

    Thanks all!

    Jonathan
  • ercoerco Posts: 20,256
    edited 2013-05-08 08:43
    I'm a day late and a dollar short. Well not quite a dollar. This 69-cent pressure sensor measures to 300mm Hg=5.8 PSI

    http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G15473
  • JonathanJonathan Posts: 1,023
    edited 2013-05-13 11:18
    Got the sensor and I am very pleased. Well constructed and is going to be very easy to mount and keep everything water-proofed. I hooked it up and the first measurement was within 1mm of my tape measure! Very, very pleased with that. I am using the pulse width output, 1mm per uS, easy math too.

    Awesome. Now we'll see how long it lasts. Thanks for the help folks, I feel like I got the right sensor for the job.

    Jonathan
  • Sal AmmoniacSal Ammoniac Posts: 213
    edited 2013-06-28 15:45
    How did you mount the sensor in the tank?

    The reason I ask is because I'm also in a rural area and I have three 5000 gallon water tanks I'd like to add a sensor to measure the water levels.
  • JonathanJonathan Posts: 1,023
    edited 2013-06-29 06:52
    Super easy to mount. It has a 3/4" thread on it, so I cut a hole large enough through the top of the tank. I got a threaded 90, poked the sensor through the hole and screwed on the 90. POked the wire through conduit and glued to the 90. Easy beans.

    Jonathan
  • 72sonett72sonett Posts: 82
    edited 2013-07-05 07:35
    Yo could use a PING)) sensor to measure the distance to the water level and rescale the result to the level from the bottom of the tank. Works up to 3 m (10 ft).


    28015-M.jpg
    250 x 250 - 19K
  • JonathanJonathan Posts: 1,023
    edited 2013-07-05 07:46
    Not a good idea. The PING is never going to tolerate that harsh an environment. The sensor I got is like the PING but designed for the job. It is often over 100 degrees F and 100% humidity in the tank.

    Jonathan
  • RforbesRforbes Posts: 281
    edited 2013-07-05 08:10
    Jonathan,

    Glad to hear yours is working out well. Same here. Question for you: How have you attached the leads to the sensor? I went with screw type terminal blocks, so that I could easily disconnect the sensor without needing to remove the control cable, etc.... did you just solder your leads to the sensor board?
  • JonathanJonathan Posts: 1,023
    edited 2013-07-05 11:32
    I soldered 'em. Although your idea is probably better. So yeah, if I need to replace it I'll have to un-solder it.

    Jonathan
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