General info on Inductors?
rwgast_logicdesign
Posts: 1,464
Over the past few months I have found myself needing inductors more and more, I usually have clearly labled parts on hand making most projects fairly easy to get set up with but this is not so with inductors, they are always a thorn in my side!
My first question is how one would go about measuring an inductor using a scope. All the tutorials I've seen on Google are fairly complicated at least for me. I was wondering if there is a simple way to get a rough estimate of an Inductors size using a prop scope, If I remember right you have to pulse it to measure it, so I'm hoping the function generator on the prop scope could do this part. Most tutorials I have seen require you to set up a separate circuit on top of a whole bunch of stuff. Basically I have a few Inductors laying around and I forgot there value an it would be nice if there were a way to get a quick easy rough estimate of there size. It does not have to be dead on +/-5uH should give me a decent idea of what I am looking at. I have a meter that measures caps decently but the ones that can do Inductors are a bit out of my price range.
Secondly picking the right Inductor style is a bit beyond me. When I built my switching regulator I got some inductors from vishay and they are HUGE, much bigger than inductors on most switching regulator circuits, they are only rated for one amp....
This is a picture of a 500mA switching regulator using a 330uH and 20uH, I guess I ordered open core inductors? The Inductors I see on things like the prop boe are much smaller, and handle more amperage! Also I buy from DigiKey and there choice of through hole inductors is kind of crumby, is there any thing wrong with putting two 10uH inductors in series to make a 20uH inductor, will this raise ESR (if that is even applicable). Lastly when making simple LC filter is there any issue with the axial Inductors that mount like a diode/resistor?
And finally the last question, exactly how hard is it to just make your own inductors? It would seem to me that you would need to be able to measure them on a scope or something to do this well? I guess what im getting at is the core has to be sized correctly etc, etc, so is it possible to just buy some materials that you can keep on hand to wrap any size inductor you may need, maybe certain diameter ferrite cores in sticks you can cut, and a few gauges of magnetic wire to cover all your bases?
My first question is how one would go about measuring an inductor using a scope. All the tutorials I've seen on Google are fairly complicated at least for me. I was wondering if there is a simple way to get a rough estimate of an Inductors size using a prop scope, If I remember right you have to pulse it to measure it, so I'm hoping the function generator on the prop scope could do this part. Most tutorials I have seen require you to set up a separate circuit on top of a whole bunch of stuff. Basically I have a few Inductors laying around and I forgot there value an it would be nice if there were a way to get a quick easy rough estimate of there size. It does not have to be dead on +/-5uH should give me a decent idea of what I am looking at. I have a meter that measures caps decently but the ones that can do Inductors are a bit out of my price range.
Secondly picking the right Inductor style is a bit beyond me. When I built my switching regulator I got some inductors from vishay and they are HUGE, much bigger than inductors on most switching regulator circuits, they are only rated for one amp....
This is a picture of a 500mA switching regulator using a 330uH and 20uH, I guess I ordered open core inductors? The Inductors I see on things like the prop boe are much smaller, and handle more amperage! Also I buy from DigiKey and there choice of through hole inductors is kind of crumby, is there any thing wrong with putting two 10uH inductors in series to make a 20uH inductor, will this raise ESR (if that is even applicable). Lastly when making simple LC filter is there any issue with the axial Inductors that mount like a diode/resistor?
And finally the last question, exactly how hard is it to just make your own inductors? It would seem to me that you would need to be able to measure them on a scope or something to do this well? I guess what im getting at is the core has to be sized correctly etc, etc, so is it possible to just buy some materials that you can keep on hand to wrap any size inductor you may need, maybe certain diameter ferrite cores in sticks you can cut, and a few gauges of magnetic wire to cover all your bases?
Comments
http://wiki.ohmspace.org/Determining_an_unknown_inductor_value_using_a_%27known%27_inductor_as_a_reference_value
Here is how to make your own air core inductors:
http://wiki.ohmspace.org/images/e/e5/CoilCalc_08-18-2008_.xls
Don't know the wire gauge? Try this out:
http://wiki.ohmspace.org/Simple_method_for_determining_wire_gauge
However, you can make your own and get reasonable accuracies.
Bridges
Your PropScope has, presumably, a AC output which can be applied across this bridge.
You can then measure the 2 nodes, signified by the meters in my diagram.
Adjust the pot until the scope shows a balance.
The ratios of the 2 inductors will be the same as the ratios of the 2 halves of the pot.
Note! select the frequency so the reference inductor impedance is in the range similar to 500 ohms, in the example.
This general circuit will work just as well with capacitors.
Duane J
The one thing I still need to know is, is there any issues with putting inductors in series? For instance 2 10uH's to make a 20uH's, Like I said I mainely stick with digi key and I am having a hard time finding some values such as 20uH.
As far as putting inductors in series, I understand you just add there values and the sum equals the total inductance. What I meant is this technically a good idea, especially with power supply circuits. For example putting caps in parallel will lower ESR while putting them in series will raise ESR. Are there any concerns like this with inductors?
I bought the "deluxe" version, which still has two problems:
1. Measurement runout - you need to constantly re-calibrate in each 10 seconds or so, if you want results with precision to 1%.
2. They don't include the enclosure pictured on website! they just give you plain serpac enclosure, in which you have to file off the lcd screen opening.
3. Veird behavour with some capacitors (which are OK when measured on another meter or used in circuit) - the capacitance rises along the time. Say I've connected capacitor and it shows 22nf. Over time of say 5 seconds, the result may rise to 80nf !
Regarding the inductors, there are few things you have to consider:
1. Saturation current/max current - check your device datasheet for formulas to calculate.
2. Resonance frequency - should be well above the switchig frequency of your device. For some inductors, frequency is not given, but you can look in datasheet for test frequency. If it is say 10khz, that means, this inductor will not be usable with say, 2mhz converter.
3. Shielded vs. Unshielded. Generally speaking, shielded ones are always better, being only slightly expensive.
4. DC resistance. The lower the DC resistance is, the higher is efficiency of the circuit overal, but also, inductor size and price raises considerably.
Regarding your question about putting inductors in series/parallel, yes it is possible, but you should physically arrange them in that way, that no mutual inductance transfer occurs. Using shielded ones will help with this much. Sure, there are designs where coupled inductors are used, for example, SEPIC converters, but that is usually declared in description.
Well if you put two inductors of the same value in series the DC resistance will be double. So if you kept doing that over and over, eventually the DC resistance would be too high. It may not be a problem for just a few inductors though.
I have had a lot of fun with the LCR meter winding homebrew inductors. Toroids. Different lengths of wire. Potcores. Very interesting to measure the values as they change, particularly as you add more windings. Gotta get back to work - the formula for turns vs inductance is on the interwebs.
But that costs twice as much - and its easy to adjust the number of turns if making your own of specifying a bulk order.
Few circuits depend on exact inductance values (ferrite cored inductors change value with temperature frequency and DC-bias anyway),
if you can adjust other R or C component values it is usually easier. Also adding inductors in series is only additive if there is no flux-overlap
between them (so toroids rather than open-bobbin style).
Circuits where precise inductance values are needed usually use trimmed inductors anyway (RF IF-transformers for instance).
Completing the magnetic loop improves efficiency too. eg a toroid or a potcore is a lot better than a rod of ferrite. Keep those magnetic field lines inside the material rather than letting them travel through air.
Agree that the formulas only work if there is no flux overlap.
My LCR has been very handy testing all these things with real world experiments.
But, keep in mind, the AmpTurns rating for the core is still the same so as the turns increase the saturation current will decrease.
Duane J
Indeed, but I'm more thinking about small adjustments to get non-standard values rather than doubling. Optimizing
inductors is complex given all the variables (gap size, turns, ferrite material, core size)