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Powering the prop from an automotive 12v source. - Page 2 — Parallax Forums

Powering the prop from an automotive 12v source.

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  • RaymanRayman Posts: 14,665
    edited 2013-03-13 02:32
    Is the LM2576 really outdated? I know there are tiny ones now that work and higher frequency, making things smaller.
    But, can they put out 3A ?
  • Peter JakackiPeter Jakacki Posts: 10,193
    edited 2013-03-13 05:44
    Rayman wrote: »
    Is the LM2576 really outdated? I know there are tiny ones now that work and higher frequency, making things smaller.
    But, can they put out 3A ?

    Whoa there, who said anything about 3A? What kind of discrete TTL logic are you talking about powering?
    Anyway a quick search reveals pages upon pages of 3A switching regulators in tiny tiny packages and switching in the MHz region, that means tiny inductors and ceramic capacitors.
    And it doesn't stop there either...
  • RaymanRayman Posts: 14,665
    edited 2013-03-13 07:15
    I have a circuit for the LM2576, which I picked because it had high current output...

    But, I did just take a look at the ti.com web page and this one looks pretty good: TPS54339E
    http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tps54339e.pdf
    It's a SO-8 style package can use a fairly small 3.3 uH inductor for 5V output and doesn't need an external diode...
  • Don MDon M Posts: 1,652
    edited 2013-03-13 07:19
    After I saw this thread the other day (I think Rayman mentioned these one other time) I ordered some of these-

    http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&keywords=811-2196-5-nd&x=0&y=0&cur=USD

    This is pretty hard to beat for the price versus time and individual parts costs of actually making a power supply if you need up to 1.5 amps. The other module the Peter mentioned is a great value as well if you need 500 mA or less.
  • Don MDon M Posts: 1,652
    edited 2013-03-13 07:27
    I've also built a number of products using the LM2674-3.3.

    lm2674.jpg
    1024 x 647 - 41K
  • Peter JakackiPeter Jakacki Posts: 10,193
    edited 2013-03-13 16:55
    Don M wrote: »
    After I saw this thread the other day (I think Rayman mentioned these one other time) I ordered some of these-

    http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&keywords=811-2196-5-nd&x=0&y=0&cur=USD

    This is pretty hard to beat for the price versus time and individual parts costs of actually making a power supply if you need up to 1.5 amps. The other module the Peter mentioned is a great value as well if you need 500 mA or less.
    Yes, I use those 1.5A ones too. It seems these cheaper modules have sprung in the last year or so because I remember looking and looking and not finding anything at this price point so I ended up doing my own at the time.
  • eagletalontimeagletalontim Posts: 1,399
    edited 2013-03-14 17:58
    I am leaning more towards using this one since I don't think there will be much more current draw on the circuit I am building : http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/R-78E5.0-0.5/945-1648-5-ND/2834904

    Right now, I am reading up on how to determine capacitor values and if anyone has any tips on this, please feel free to fill me in on this :)
  • Peter JakackiPeter Jakacki Posts: 10,193
    edited 2013-03-14 20:32
    Switching regulator modules are normally equipped with their own minimum value capacitors to ensure stability but you should always use 104s (0.1uf) on your logic supplies across the loads etc and it never hurts to have a 106 (10uf) tantalum on the that supply but located more conveniently. For the input side you can use an electrolytic and 100uF is still very small. These are just some basic suggestions as this will also depend upon your power source, is it already regulated?, does it have much ripple?, etc.

    BTW, using a 104 or even 103 in parallel with a tantalum (low ESR) provides a balance between high-frequency and medium to low-frequency regulation as it is unlikely that one type or value of capacitor does all best.
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