My Printrbot Jr adventure

Bean · 2013-02-05 05:27

I had ordered a Printrbot Jr kit on January 6, 2013.

Yesterday (Feb 4) it came via USPS. So it took 4 weeks just as promised.

The items were well packed and suffered no damage.

After work, I set to building my Printrbot Jr. The design is very clever but building it is a real pain. Unless you REALLY like building stuff (like Ikea furniture), keep your sanity and order an assembled printer.

I spent 6 hour and I'm not finished yet. The "instructions" (which consist of a series of youtube video, and a pdf) were hard for me to follow. Brook picks up pieces without really showing you what they look like or telling you the piece number. Then he screws them together without telling you what size screw he used. Most of the time his arm is in the way and you can't see how the parts go together without constantly stopping the video.

It took some searching to find the instructions to build the extruder, and I never did find how to install the hot-end (I figured it out myself). There is some work needed in this area by PrintrBot.

At the end of night, I found I was short two 1" screws so I couldn't attach the extruder to the arm. I don't know if they were missing, or if I had used them somewhere else.

Six hours was long enough for one night, so I called it quits. I still need to attach the extruder, install the main board, and get all the electronics connected before I can start testing it.

Bean

mindrobots · 2013-02-05 08:34

Thanks for sharing your adventures!

I'm on the fence whether to buy one built or build one. It comes down to the trade off between time and between having intimate knowledge of your printer. I'd like to also be able to justify having one other than ....wow, that's cool and I should have that toy!

Bean · 2013-02-05 09:42

That was my reasoning to get the kit. But if I had it to do over, I would get it pre-assembled.

Bean

davejames · 2013-02-05 09:45

Bean wrote: »

That was my reasoning to get the kit. But if I had it to do over, I would get it pre-assembled.

Bean

...what's the difference in price?

Bean · 2013-02-05 09:49

Kit is $399, assembled is $499. So $100 more. Just a few weeks ago it was only $50 more.

Trust me, it is worth the $100 .

Bean

davejames · 2013-02-05 09:55

Bean wrote: »

Trust me, it is worth the $100 .

Bean

I have NO doubt! I'm always weighing the cost of my frustration versus cost of a kit, and usually my frustration wins out.

That's the major reason I pay people for services rather than attempting them myself.

mindrobots · 2013-02-05 10:11

You just sold me on the pre-assembled!!

davejames · 2013-02-05 11:20

...OMG!

At just 0:36 into the first video, the guy says "...I'm not gonna give a lot of instruction..." as he fumbles about with the parts.

I think the extra $100 is definitely worth it.

ilovepi · 2013-02-05 12:26

My non-mechanically-inclined self took three weeks to build an Ultimaker in my free time. In terms of value of my time, assembling is not worth it. On the other hand, 3D printers eventually need tweaking, tuning, and fixing, which the assembly process leaves you well prepared to do. For instance, after my filament sat around for a few weeks and absorbed moisture, my feed rate was too fast and melted plastic filled the hot end eventually solidifying in the bowden tube during retraction. So I had to disassemble/reassemble the hot end and the flying head.

Bean · 2013-02-05 17:11

Got the extruder mounted and connected all the cables (much easier than I thought).

Because of a mistake in the video, the x axis was moving backwards. The easiest way to fix it was to cut the tab off the connector on the board and reverse the plug. So I did that.

I adjusted all the end stops and tried to print Mr. Jaws. After a couple false starts he printed PERFECTLY!!!

I printed a couple more things (a heart for my wife). It looks like everything is working pretty well. Now all I have to do is get the board and all the wires into the bottom compartment, then it's finished.

I am very impressed with the quality of the objects. The sides are nice and flat. It sometimes doesn't stick to the bed a first, but once it does it works fine the whole way though.

Bean

mindrobots · 2013-02-05 17:59

YAY!! Victory!!!

Heart for the wife....nice touch since she probably won't be seeing you for a while as you design and print 3D objects!!

al1970 · 2013-02-05 22:38

Hi:

I don't own a printer and always wanted to know if they print fine enough to print a gear?

Al

max72 · 2013-02-05 23:18

@Bean: check the bed height. Sticking to the bed is sometimes a question of very fine tuning. If the slicer allows try to print the first layer fatter. Do you use blue tape?

@al1970: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4650
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34778
If you check the thingiverse you can find a lot of working gear examples

Massimo

garyg · 2013-02-06 18:45

Would it be possible to post a couple of photos?
Mr. Jaws and the Heart.
AND
Would you like to share what 3d software and or slicing program you are using in this project?

I have a very modified gizmo that was originally called a Neuractor.
It has been quite a few years since it's been operated, but it sitting in my shop and calling me.

Thanks for any comments

Bean · 2013-02-07 04:05

I do use Blue tape on the bed. I have found that wiping it with alchol does make is stick better.

I will get some pictures. I wanted to print a few more things first.

I use Slic3r and Protorface. These are recommended by PrintrBot.

I printed a large Darth Vader head that came out perfect, and I made a simple 3D corner bracket in sketchup and was able to print that too. It looks like I'm well on my way....

Bean

max72 · 2013-02-07 05:26

great!
you can help the part sticking to the bed printing the first layer slower and warmer.
Give kisslicer a try.. :-)

Massimo

prof_braino · 2013-02-07 08:48

ilovepi wrote: »

My non-mechanically-inclined self took three weeks to build an Ultimaker... 3D printers eventually need tweaking, tuning, and fixing, which the assembly process leaves you well prepared to do.

My Prusa took two months of research and two weeks to build. It also took two weeks to order all the parts,since I didn't get it right on the first order. I never could have calibrated the machine without building it, I would not have know what the parts were and how they interact. Remember, this is still bleeding edge, not a commodity like a toaster.

One point to consider is the design is intentionally in flux, folks are improving it as they build.

For instance, the original design had FOUR point bed leveling, and four point bed bearings. Somebody brought up the thing about three points determine a plane, and four points don't; so we switched to three bed bearings and life got a LOT easier. Later, I switched to three point bed leveling, and life got easier again (previously it was completely impossible to get the bed level). After this I discovered the bed was warped (or had warped over time), and switch to tempered glass as print surface. The tempered glass turned out to be very wavy, so i switched to a mirror. Now it rocks.

My nephew (sports, video games, design) built his own Wallace (printrbot similar) and can calibrate and modify it himself. If I had built it FOR him, he never would have gotten it working (his words).

Building it yourself, and learning about the machine from the inside, is the whole fun and benefit! Its the difference between riding a roller coaster and driving a race car.

Bean · 2013-02-08 12:56

Here are some pictures of my setup.

Bean

garyg · 2013-02-08 19:42

I'm impressed with your results.
The parts are looking good.
The Printrbot from your photo looks pretty good.
I started looking for info about the Pronterface and Slic3r software.
I would guess that the Printrbot, Pronterface and Slic3r products are very new.
I may want to give this a try myself.
Bean, I'm hoping you will be adding to this Printrbot saga and adventure.

Thanks

vanmunch · 2013-02-09 07:08

Great thread and prints.

I have a couple of questions:
Are you using PLA or ABS, 1.75 or 3mm, and do you have any warping issues?

Thanks!

Bean · 2013-02-12 09:35

I am using 3mm PLA natural color. I have had no warping issues at all.

The biggest problem I have is getting the first layer to stick. It is odd that is seems to stick much better in my basement where is it pretty cold (about 65 F). When I took it to work where the room was about 72 F, I had a heck of a time getting it to stick.

Often the skirt loop will stick, but if the first layer has small areas that are not connected, they will just pull off when the nozzle moves away.

After the first layers, I have had zero problems. I can walk away and let it finish without any problems.

I'm trying to learn sketchup and I made a simple corner bracket by drawing a 1" cube, then removing a 3/4" cube from it (leaving 1/4" on three sides). Then I put a 1/4" hole in the middle of each of the three face. When printed I was surprised at the strength of the object. I could not break it with my hands.

If anyone has a small object you want me to print, let me know and I'll try it. Wheels, brackets, etc...

Bean

max72 · 2013-02-12 15:15

First layer sticking is the key issue, usually.
Check the web. Blue tape brand and code number matters, and also the correct cleaning (acetone?)
Print the first layer slower, warmer and if possible fatter.
Fine tune bed level. A small difference really matters here.
Massimo

W9GFO · 2013-02-12 18:09

Printing PLA directly on glass heated to 60C works wonderfully. It sticks great but when the print is finished and the glass cools the piece just pops off with no effort.

My Printrbot Jr adventure

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