Ball Grid Arrays - DIY boards and soldering
LoopyByteloose
Posts: 12,537
I am wondering if anyone here has dared to fabricate boards and soldered ball grid arrays. I happen to be looking at a 16Mb SRAM chip that only comes in the this package and I am wondering if I am just a bit too wary about trying to build with these. It has a grid of 48 balls.
Since the balls are actual solder, I presume if I properly tinned the board - it might all go rather smoothly. Though I am wondering about having to solder mask a DIY board.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ball_grid_array
Since the balls are actual solder, I presume if I properly tinned the board - it might all go rather smoothly. Though I am wondering about having to solder mask a DIY board.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ball_grid_array
Comments
This of course also depends on the type of BGA that you are using and how well you have the ball array lined up to the pads. What size is the BGA, what pitch are the balls, what is the ball diameter, and what alloy is it?
Of course, good flux and everything clean are imperative.
That is a good question as I am thinking about soldering ball grid arrays and I suspect that using an oven is far better than other alternatives. So I suspect that I would have to adapt a toaster oven with an add-on control, maybe a microcontroller and thermal sensor to have the whole cycle kept within spec.
Hot air is likely best for rework, not new construction. If one has to remove a ball grid array, the hot air would work. Then one has to rebuild the solder balls and go back into an oven to attach.
Loopy, I have heard of people using a toaster oven to pull BGAs by reaching in with tweezers and lifting the part once it is fully above liquidus temp. Risky, but not impossible.
Loop - this site may help with part of your dilemma:
http://www.proto-advantage.com/store/index.php?cPath=4000&osCsid=b03ggmlj36niu9f3mruh2ce217
Before I had the hot air rework station I had to use the method described by WBA to remove a chip. I'd heat up the whole board and, while hot, use tweezers to remove a part. I noticed that after 8 cycles or so that things started going bad. Plastic parts would change color, the board would make a cracking sound, and it just looked charred.
So, now I use the hot air rework. It seems to work well.
Can't speak to their ball product, but having used many of their other adapters, they work well. They don't protect you from yourself as well as the schmartboard though. As with schmartboard however, I wish they would use a smaller pin size to be easier on the breadboard sockets. Could also have used a full length pin because space for two level modified wrap just doesn't get it at times. Making the third level has no clean options.
FF