Why is the power connector on the Stamp HW board stiff
Buck Rogers
Posts: 2,178
Hello!
So I bought this fellow http://www.parallax.com/Store/Microcontrollers/BASICStampDevelopmentBoards/tabid/137/CategoryID/12/List/0/SortField/0/Level/a/ProductID/781/Default.aspx from a Radio Shack in Manhattan on Friday. The sellers there are capable Gordon, Bean, but only just.
Now Mike Green I remember an earlier discussion regarding power on the Stamp2 requires over 5V to work properly. So the presence of the 9V snaps makes sense. But they are rather stiff.
Why are they that stiff? (In this context I mean they are difficult to separate from the battery when I'm done using the board.)
So I bought this fellow http://www.parallax.com/Store/Microcontrollers/BASICStampDevelopmentBoards/tabid/137/CategoryID/12/List/0/SortField/0/Level/a/ProductID/781/Default.aspx from a Radio Shack in Manhattan on Friday. The sellers there are capable Gordon, Bean, but only just.
Now Mike Green I remember an earlier discussion regarding power on the Stamp2 requires over 5V to work properly. So the presence of the 9V snaps makes sense. But they are rather stiff.
Why are they that stiff? (In this context I mean they are difficult to separate from the battery when I'm done using the board.)
Comments
I tend to put a toggle switch between a 9V battery and another 9V snap that is connected to
the Parallax board.
What that does is enable you to turn off power to the Parallax board without disconnecting your 9V battery.
If you like, I could make another post with a photo of my Super Carrier board and 9V battery clips.
If you connect battery clips to battery clips - Be careful of the Polarity change that happens.
I hope this helps you out.
Hello!
It does indeed. I'll probably visit my local (what else?) Radio Shack sometime tomorrow and track down a fresh bag of 9V battery clips and the classic holder. Also some hook and loop fasteners as they call them.
Here you say: Would you mind elaborating on that? Also please do take that photo of your Enterprise grade board. (The carrier not the starship was a super carrier. She defined the term by being one of the oldest active carriers in the service. When she retired she set a record that very few Mavericks in the service will meet. In fact I routinely get into wrangles over the definition of the term as applied to certain products sold by those daft people at Microsoft.)
After wiring up the connectors and switch, I checked the polarity on the plug before connecting it to
my Super Carrier Board.
You'll notice on the photo that red wires are tied to black wires.
I hope this helps you out
Hello!
Considerably. Before I connect my idea to the board, I'll check the polarity on it, twice actually, before continuing. My switch won't be that conventional toggle-switch, it'll be a slide one.
Hello!
As I said earlier, I remember that from an earlier discussion regarding an unmounted stamp. Now the interesting problem will of course be connecting everything appropriately. And respecting the polarity of course.
I figure that I'll pick the appropriate clips (or snaps) first and worry along later. They sell two styles. One is a style that resembles the ones used in regular radios and a few other devices. The other style is one that they claim is fully insulated. Gary If I am interpreting your photo correctly, you used style #1 for your connections. But no matter. If it works for you then fine. If my idea works for me, then okay.
Hello!
Problem solved. I've wired together an approximation of your idea with your Nimitz there. It turns out that my slide-switch and the two snaps work perfectly. (Incidentally while writing that I realized that the whole business wasn't tested. It is now.)
I wrapped the soldered ends, both the black and red leads direct from the snaps and the ones going to the switch in heat shrink tubing. And then shrunk them using a heat gun that I bought from Sparkfun for a completely different reason.
It has now been solved. (Friendly word to the good people behind our gear, please add a simple switch to the next revision the HW board.)
Much like the BS1 Project Board... http://www.parallax.com/StoreSearchResults/tabid/768/List/0/SortField/4/ProductID/119/Default.aspx?txt
***Glares at Robby for being right.**
Hello!
In actuality yes. The two are similar despite one being the project board for the BS1 and the other being a (reasonably) simple project board for the BS2. So the idea Gary had, which in hindsight I also developed at the same time, that of using two 9V snaps, and wearing a switch (for obvious reasons) and its all good.
And as it happens yet another problem surfaced. And with a solution. I shall start a new thread.