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Propstick Setup — Parallax Forums

Propstick Setup

GeofPriceGeofPrice Posts: 16
edited 2013-01-28 17:19 in General Discussion
Hi All:

I have a problem I'm kinda at my wits end with. I bought a new Propstick for a project and built a board for the project. I has a 7805 regulator for power, and some minimal circuitry that the Propostick controls and reads data from. I wrote a Spin program to control the Propstick and circuitry, but then I am unable to upload the program. The Propeller Tool is unable to locate the chip even though I see all the appropriate LED's and stuff flashing when I plug in the USB. So I've checked my connections over and over again. +5 is at the correct spot on the Propstick. and the Propstick produces the +3.3. I've checked continuity from the Propstick ground pins to power ground and all is OK. I've messed with the USB drivers. No help. So here's the kicker. If I take the Propstick out of the project board, and plug it into the breadboard test kit that I got with my first Propstick, everything works fine. I can find the Propstick on the USB, upload the Spin program, and do everything just fine. That means all my USB stuff is working on my computer. Its just when I move to the project board that I keep getting communication error in the propeller tool. I've trimmed everything I can down to a minimum on the project board and can't get it to communicate. Help would be appreciated!

Comments

  • Mike GreenMike Green Posts: 23,101
    edited 2013-01-27 08:22
    There's obviously something wrong with your project board. Some schematics drawn from the actual wiring (checked for continuity without the PropStick or USB plugged in) on your project board plus some clear closeup pictures would be helpful. You've already proven that the PropStick itself works and your PC / Prop Tool / USB connection works.
  • GeofPriceGeofPrice Posts: 16
    edited 2013-01-28 17:19
    Thanks for your reply. So I wound up un-soldering everything from the Propstick, then re-soldered just the +5 and two grounds. Now it works, so I am only going to solder back one connection at a time and check for communication each time.
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