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SMD Soldering Question — Parallax Forums

SMD Soldering Question

NWCCTVNWCCTV Posts: 3,629
edited 2012-12-27 23:37 in General Discussion
After much thought and research I finally broke down and bought this Soldering/Rework Station. http://www.ebay.com/itm/110969755108?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I have been quite ill and though it ws a Christmas gift to myself I have not been well enough until today to set it up. This unit shows lots of promise and I am thus far very satisfied with its performance and capabilities.

I have not tackled SMD components as of yet and I purchased an SMD Practice kit so I can learn. Here's my question: Is there any documentation that outlines maximum temperatures to use for specific components such as resistors, leds, capacitors, etc or does it depend on the manufacturer? I want to make sure to get off on the right foot by not burning up everything I try to solder from the start.

Comments

  • frank freedmanfrank freedman Posts: 1,983
    edited 2012-12-27 18:39
    Google us your friend for info. I like Zephpaste for a soldering paste for doing soldering. Also, work will be letting me set up a Zephertronic station for rework/repair. It will include the air bath as well as the air soldering pen etc. Has its plusses and and minuses, Have fun though....

    Get feeling better......

    Frank

    Google was the short answer. depends on how you will attach the parts. There are lots of charts and curves for doing bulk soldering in toaster ovens etc, you will have to refer to the data sheets that the paste manufacturer distributes with their product. Air baths help in the component repair and individual component placement. (I also use my work unit to scavenge SMT parts, the air pen works so much better at removing multi-pin devices. Practice makes speed) The trick to removal for me was getting the right balance of airflow and heat. Have not successfully removed any BGA devices yet. May try again when we get the digital controlled air bath unit.

    Oh, invest in a good set of specialty tools like this set http://www.zeph.com/soldering_supplies_kits_bga_smd_smt_thru-hole.htm from Zephtronics. Good curved tweezers work almost as well as an vacuum pick up for me on smaller parts. Personally I am not a fan of lead free. But you can go both ways with these kits.

    NWCCTV wrote: »
    After much thought and research I finally broke down and bought this Soldering/Rework Station. http://www.ebay.com/itm/110969755108?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

    I have been quite ill and though it ws a Christmas gift to myself I have not been well enough until today to set it up. This unit shows lots of promise and I am thus far very satisfied with its performance and capabilities.

    I have not tackled SMD components as of yet and I purchased an SMD Practice kit so I can learn. Here's my question: Is there any documentation that outlines maximum temperatures to use for specific components such as resistors, leds, capacitors, etc or does it depend on the manufacturer? I want to make sure to get off on the right foot by not burning up everything I try to solder from the start.
  • CircuitsoftCircuitsoft Posts: 1,166
    edited 2012-12-27 18:47
    Resistors and Ceramic capacitors you don't really have to worry about. LEDs are difficult, so I would only solder them with a fine point on a normal iron. Electrolytic capacitors are also on my hand-solder list. For doing actual reflow, I prefer to use a hot plate. Lay down solder paste, lay the board in the skillet (on aluminum foil if you want to remove it sooner and more easily), and turn it on high until the paste gets melty/shiny.
  • frank freedmanfrank freedman Posts: 1,983
    edited 2012-12-27 19:19
    Nice thing with air soldering pen is once device is in the paste it will not move on you unless your airflow is too high. Surface tension or my own less than steady hand has caused parts to shift when soldering with an iron. Also on LEDs if they are marked it's generally on the bottom. what's with that???
  • SRLMSRLM Posts: 5,045
    edited 2012-12-27 23:37
    frank freedman wrote: »
    Also on LEDs if they are marked it's generally on the bottom. what's with that???

    I'm guessing it's mostly for the P&P machine vision, not for humans. Plus, where else would you put it?

    In any case, most components are fairly robust. I have a couple of boards where the chips on them have been reflowed up to 210C about 10 times. Ideally, you would follow a solder reflow profile.

    http://www.kester.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=OUPpdDgnu4U%3D&tabid=181
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