Anyone here ever used a toaster oven to solder the LQFP or QFN Propeller packages?
ElectricAye
Posts: 4,561
I've seen a number of threads suggesting people have had some good luck using toaster ovens + solder paste to make some PCBs using SOICs and so forth, but I haven't yet found anyone mentioning they have used such a DIY home-growth method on the LQFP or QFN Propeller packages.
Has anyone had any luck using a DIY toaster with the LQFP or QFN Propeller?
Has anyone had any luck using a DIY toaster with the LQFP or QFN Propeller?
Comments
For me the key has been the solder paste. I've have nothing but praise for ZephPaste. Its reflow performance and shelf life are both extraordinary, compared with the Kester Smile I got from DigiKey.
-Phil
Yes, please do! I'm sure plenty of people would like to see how this is done by someone knowledgeable, especially considering how it's getting harder to find through-hole components that keep up with the times.
Thanks for the tips, too!
Please do this Peter.
Wish I had that!!! Zephpaste is tough to extrude through an 10cc syringe and 20g needle. But it is great paste seems to remain useable well after its stated shelf life if stored right. I have used it on occasion with a home-made air soldering tool. Yes the same one someone posted on youtube sometime back using a Radio Hhack desoldering iron and a low airflow from an aquarium pump regulated by simple aquarium grade air valves. Loose the squeeze bulb and replace with hose from the aquarium pump. I have used this to mount QFN-56 USB hub chips, connectors, sioc and t/ssop formats. also some passives. It will not do an effective job at removal. For that I have access to a bottom feeder Ayouy model.
Sorry, I am not so clear on your technique.
Do you mean that squeeze out a snaky long paste or you squeeze inidvidual small amounts of paste on each pad?
Use landing pads on pcb that sticks out further helps too.
Some post- work with soldering iron and flux is sometimes needed to remove large solder ball across two pads.
BTW, for those who do not already have toaster ovens, get an IR unit with a convection fan. Mine doesn't have the fan, which makes it impossible to do boards larger than a few square inches, due to the uneven distribution of heat.
-Phil
Thanks, Phil. Anybody know of a particular unit you know is good?
I haven't done any SMT work yet but I'm interested in getting started. Do you have a make and model in mind? I don't own one and as long as the cost is $150 or less I don't care which one I get. If it's more that $150 I'll have to think about it. I've got my eye on a hot air smt hot air rework station for that amount.
We've been doing proto Eurocards (6.3" x 4") successfully here, with about 50 ics onboard, using a ~$20 Tiffany. Virtually no rework required. It has two elements, a half shielded one at the bottom, and unshielded one at the top, no fan.
A convection fan may be preferable, especially if there is a wide variety of component sizes, but probably not essential to get started.
I've been amazed at how forgiving it all is, and wish I started earlier.
http://www.okay.com.au/okay2009/product_info.php?cPath=1013_617&products_id=2951
In my experiments several years ago, I found that IR with fan works WAY BETTER. I tried several different models *from a thrift-store* and the best ones had fans. I would recommend a good controller, the built-in temp settings will drift out of spec.
Best results: IR with fan, fan always on, element controlled by micro. 2 thermocouples, one dead center under board, one halfway between wall. A simple averaging of temps to control set point worked great.
For doing more than a board here or there, solder paste dispenser is worth its weight in gold.
Good luck!
Does this look like a good unit to modify and use a Prop or something to control it. I could see a USB Proto Board being used to have a PC control the whole process.
It seems like you'd be paying for the fancy LCD and then bypass the whole thing with your own controls. Just wondering: why would you need a PC to control the process if you've got a Prop Board controlling it? I'm guessing the Prop by itself would be able to handle the temp/time profile very easily.
I wonder how hard it would be to get a cheaper IR oven, then install a DIY fan?
The PC, would only be needed if you wanted to easily modify the settings, or show feedback.
I guess I got the idea from this video
I wonder if Phil Pilgrim's new Thermal Imaging system will be able to work with this.
Here is a more down to earth one. They show how to create one out of an old BlecknDecker unit.
I seem to remember from my testing that older "thrift-store" models required more ramp-up time. Not much, but enough to cause some temp drift between heating cycles.
It also works best to turn off JUST BEFORE temp. Results may vary with unit.
-Phil