Shop OBEX P1 Docs P2 Docs Learn Events
Sealing airflow to fans when not in use — Parallax Forums

Sealing airflow to fans when not in use

varnonvarnon Posts: 184
edited 2012-06-23 09:11 in Robotics
Hey guys,


I have a quick question about a design. In this apparatus we have a heated chamber. We want to cool it very quickly. The idea is to cut off the heat source and turn on some fans for a few seconds. (We used a similar design in a current apparatus and it worked well). However, we want also want the apparatus to be well insulated, and one concern is loss of heat through inactive fans. A solution is to cover the fans when they are not in use.


The current idea is to have a servo open and close a door to the fan. This way the area is sealed when the fan is not in use. A crude model of the concept is attached. It's a simple matter of attaching servos to a door, but I was wondering if there was a better way.


The rotating mechanism does take up a bit of space, but any linear actuators I've seen have been extremely expensive. Does anybody have any other suggestions? I've been thinking about this for a while and this is the best mechanism I have come up with.


Any thoughts are appreciated.
1024 x 273 - 29K

Comments

  • W9GFOW9GFO Posts: 4,010
    edited 2012-06-21 13:04
    My first thought is to use a sliding grate. Either something that slides left and right to either line up a series of slots or covers up a series of slots. Or make it a rotate around the center in a pie/flower shape. This is assuming that the fan can tolerate a 50% reduction in intake area.

    Or forget the grating thing and just have the door slide into position rather than flipping up.
  • hover1hover1 Posts: 1,929
    edited 2012-06-21 13:06
    I'm not seeing how the servo horns are going to lift the gate without some sort of rack and pinion setup.

    It looks like the door would be small enough to accomidate a lifting which, such as this:

    http://www.servocity.com/html/hs-785hb_3_5_rotations.html

    J
    im
  • idbruceidbruce Posts: 6,197
    edited 2012-06-21 13:10
    Jim

    There are louvers that will open when the fans are running and close when they are not.

    Bruce

    Edit: Or just make a baffle with a pin going through the center. Make one half of the baffle just slightly heavier than the other, but also make the baffle light enough so that the air pressure from the fans will open them.
  • hover1hover1 Posts: 1,929
    edited 2012-06-21 13:14
    idbruce wrote: »
    Jim

    There are louvers that will open when the fans are running and close when they are not.

    Bruce



    Edit: Or just make a baffle with a pin going through the center. Make one half of the just slightly heavier than the other, but also make the baffle light enough so that the air pressure from the fans will open them.

    Louvers? Sorry I don't see them. Just see a door to go up and down.

    Jim
  • hover1hover1 Posts: 1,929
    edited 2012-06-21 13:16
    A slightly preloaded spring door? Might work if the is enough pressure from the fans.

    Jim
  • idbruceidbruce Posts: 6,197
    edited 2012-06-21 13:17
    Jim

    Go to Home Depot and open up a bathroom fan, and you will get the idea.

    Bruce
  • hover1hover1 Posts: 1,929
    edited 2012-06-21 13:28
    idbruce wrote: »
    Jim

    Go to Home Depot and open up a bathroom fan, and you will get the idea.

    Bruce

    Gotha. I though you saw a louver in the OP's design.

    Yes, standard attic fan setup.

    Jim
  • idbruceidbruce Posts: 6,197
    edited 2012-06-21 13:29
  • idbruceidbruce Posts: 6,197
    edited 2012-06-21 13:41
    Sorry Jim and Varnon

    I was thinking Jim was the OP. Should have paid better attention.
  • varnonvarnon Posts: 184
    edited 2012-06-21 14:36
    hover1 wrote: »
    A slightly preloaded spring door? Might work if the is enough pressure from the fans.


    Jim


    Interesting idea, but I don't think this would work for our application. We actually will have a fan (or set of fans) on each side. One to suck hot air out, another to push room-temperature-air or cool-air in. We could not rely on pressure to open the door leading to the cool-air intake fan.
    We are essentially studying what kinds of temperatures animals prefer, so we don't want any moving parts on the inside of the apparatus with the animal.



    W9GFO wrote: »
    My first thought is to use a sliding grate. Either something that slides left and right to either line up a series of slots or covers up a series of slots. Or make it a rotate around the center in a pie/flower shape. This is assuming that the fan can tolerate a 50% reduction in intake area.


    Or forget the grating thing and just have the door slide into position rather than flipping up.


    Initially, I wanted to have a moving door so that I could attach some insulation to the inside of the door. However, some sort of sliding grate would work as well. I don't think I should expect a huge temperature loss through uninsulated sealed fans.



    hover1 wrote: »
    I'm not seeing how the servo horns are going to lift the gate without some sort of rack and pinion setup.


    It looks like the door would be small enough to accommodate a lifting which, such as this:


    http://www.servocity.com/html/hs-785hb_3_5_rotations.html


    Jim


    I don't follow your concern. Can you elaborate?



    idbruce wrote: »
    Jim


    There are louvers that will open when the fans are running and close when they are not.


    My bad... I believe the terminology would be backdraft dampers.


    I investigated louvers a bit, but I have not seen any smaller inexpensive adjustable louvers that can be controlled electronically. I was not aware of the term "backdraft damper," this produced a lot better results, but some of these may be too large. I'll keep looking.


    I appreciate the thoughts so far.
  • Duane DegnDuane Degn Posts: 10,588
    edited 2012-06-21 15:37
    I've thought about using these on a small sliding door.

    10734-01.jpg
  • hover1hover1 Posts: 1,929
    edited 2012-06-21 17:18
    I don't follow your concern. Can you elaborate?

    I can see now what you are trying to do. Rotate the door 180 degrees. I thought you were trying to lift it vertically, that's why I suggested a winch servo at the center top to lift the door.

    Jim
  • Duane DegnDuane Degn Posts: 10,588
    edited 2012-06-21 17:24
    hover1 wrote: »
    I can see now what you are trying to do. Rotate the door 180 degrees. I thought you were trying to lift it vertically, that's why I suggested a winch servo at the center top to lift the door.

    Jim

    I thought the same thing. I think my working on the motorized sliding pot made me jump to that conclusion.

    One you point out it rotates, the rotation looks obvious from the drawings.
  • varnonvarnon Posts: 184
    edited 2012-06-21 17:39
    My apologizes for the confusion. I suppose I could have added some extra detail in the model. (I had to send a new model to a colleague, so I updated it here as well.)
    It actually doesn't matter to me how it works, the model was just of the current concept. My colleague have now requested the covers be insulated as well, so there goes using comercial dampers or louvers.

    Those motorized slide potentiometers are pretty sick for what they are. I would be a little concerned with strength if they were moving an object vertically, but I think they might work pretty well for horizontal movement.
  • xanaduxanadu Posts: 3,347
    edited 2012-06-21 17:50
    How hot do you heat up the animals??
  • varnonvarnon Posts: 184
    edited 2012-06-21 18:04
    It depends on the species. We want to know about their preferred temperature level, but we do not ever want to put them in any serious discomfort or danger. Forgive me if I'm brief on the details at the moment, the research is not published yet.


    In our current version of the apparatus and experiment, other research suggested that 40 c (95 f) is uncomfortable but "sublethal" to our species. Our subjects started getting uncomfortable at around 34-37c body temperature (measured from infrared thermometer directly on the body surface) or 50 c air temperature. The discrepancies in this temperature is one of the big reasons we are rebuilding the apparatus and trying to seal and insulating it well. We hope to essentially build a "forced air incubator" that doesn't have much of a temperature gradient. This way any air temperature measurement will be closer to the temperature of the animal.


    Aside from that all we could do to increase the accuracy is to install thermometers inside the animals, and I really don't want to do that. Anything invasive is not my style. We just want our animals to be happy and do their normal thing as unhindered as possible.
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2012-06-21 19:05
    It sounds like motorized triple-cell window shades (Google) might do the trick.

    -Phil
  • W9GFOW9GFO Posts: 4,010
    edited 2012-06-21 19:11
    If it needs to be insulated you could use a double door that is made of rigid insulation. Each door when opened uncovers an oval hole. A bit of weatherstripping around the hole can seal against the door when shut. A single door would work too but with two doors you substantially decrease the the amount of space required that it needs for swinging.
  • ElectricAyeElectricAye Posts: 4,561
    edited 2012-06-21 21:22
    If you have enough space, then try to use a design in which the motors only need to move the doors, not lift them or deal with unnecessary amounts of torque, etc. In other words, slide the doors in and out of position so you're only working against friction, or utilize a counter weight system of some sort, or have doors that rotate with their axis parallel to the axis of your fan with their weight balanced, for example. By balancing or by eliminating from your equation the weight of your doors, you can use smaller servos or at least place less stress on whatever servos you decide to use.
  • GadgetmanGadgetman Posts: 2,436
    edited 2012-06-22 04:06
    If you have room on the outside, attach the 'door' with 4 rods(one for each corner) of the same length, and use a servo motor connected to one of the rods, so that the door moves outwards and aside, but always stays parallell to the side of the box. That way it'll be very easy to seal the edges.
  • Duane DegnDuane Degn Posts: 10,588
    edited 2012-06-22 06:37
    Do you need to worry about the humidity?

    When I attempted some humdity control experiments, I was surprised how much the relative humidity changed with relatively small changes in temperature.
  • ElectricAyeElectricAye Posts: 4,561
    edited 2012-06-22 06:51
    Duane Degn wrote: »
    Do you need to worry about the humidity?...


    That's a very good point, Duane, especially considering what the original poster stated about skin temperature, etc. And controlling the humidity might be very difficult if your space is small and you have lots of items inside it that can change the humidity in unpredictable ways - respiration of organisms, open water sources whose surface area changes, or fur or cloth, etc. that get wet. When you're operating near body temperature, I suppose the only way for the critter to keep cool is to sweat or swim in a pool, so things can get complicated if you don't consider those variables.


    varnon wrote: »
    ...

    In our current version of the apparatus and experiment, other research suggested that 40 c (95 f) is uncomfortable but "sublethal" to our species. Our subjects started getting uncomfortable at around 34-37c body temperature (measured from infrared thermometer directly on the body surface) or 50 c air temperature. The discrepancies in this temperature is one of the big reasons we are rebuilding the apparatus and trying to seal and insulating it well. ....
  • xanaduxanadu Posts: 3,347
    edited 2012-06-22 12:59
    Well if you're not tormenting any animals...

    My input is to use a solenoid to push/pull a door and you can use overlapping slots on the door and chassis (as mentioned earlier) for minimal movement.
  • varnonvarnon Posts: 184
    edited 2012-06-22 13:35
    That's a very good point, Duane, especially considering what the original poster stated about skin temperature, etc. And controlling the humidity might be very difficult if your space is small and you have lots of items inside it that can change the humidity in unpredictable ways - respiration of organisms, open water sources whose surface area changes, or fur or cloth, etc. that get wet. When you're operating near body temperature, I suppose the only way for the critter to keep cool is to sweat or swim in a pool, so things can get complicated if you don't consider those variables.

    Last time, we recorded both temperature and humidity with a separate device from the one controlling our experiment (not a propeller). This time we are using a propeller and a sensirion temperature/humidity sensor. It seems like humidity was pretty proportional to temperature. I didn't look at the humidity graphs all that much though.
    But now that you guys mention it. It would be interesting to do an experiment where temperature changes but humidity stays consistent. Wow that sounds like a pain to set up.
  • Duane DegnDuane Degn Posts: 10,588
    edited 2012-06-22 13:37
    varnon wrote: »
    It would be interesting to do an experiment where temperature changes but humidity stays consistent. Wow that sounds like a pain to set up.

    In my experience, it's a huge pain to maintain a certain relative humidity.
  • tobdectobdec Posts: 267
    edited 2012-06-23 09:11
    What if you used one way check valves similar to what is in coffee makers? Only on a much larger scale of course and let gravity seal it off when airflow isn't needed. Maybe a ball on top of a PVC pipe oiled slightly?
Sign In or Register to comment.