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Diagonal cutter showdown: Taiwan (?) vs. Japan (?) tools — Parallax Forums

Diagonal cutter showdown: Taiwan (?) vs. Japan (?) tools

Ken GraceyKen Gracey Posts: 7,401
edited 2012-06-13 17:51 in General Discussion
Parallax doesn't resell a lot of items, but those we do we carefully evaluate to make sure they're the best we can procure. On a trip this month to China we spent a couple of days wandering the component market. But we want the "best" we can get, right? Maybe the best for the dollar (or RMB, as in this case). We need some diagonal cutters for our kits, so we sampled two brands, one from Taiwan and the other from Japan. Although, let's face it - these are from China and do I really believe they imported tools from Taiwan and Japan? Not really. They can copy nearly everything, very nicely.

So perhaps these are really Chinese tools, but branded as Taiwanese and Japanese. Who knows. You really can't find out.

Anyway, the Taiwanese ones cost us about $5-6 (maybe about $4 after serious negotiation and purchasing several hundred units) and the Japanese ones cost about $2. We would have thought the Taiwanese versions would have been of better quality. I really couldn't tell much of a difference, so I invited the manufacturing staff in for a blind test. These people know what they're looking at - they buy Lindstrom cutters at $70 a piece and use them like surgeons all day long across two shifts. Manufacturing staff who voted did so with strong conviction and preferred the Japanese version which is much less expensive.

Other people in the office who don't normally use these tools also cast a vote, but with a bit less enthusiasm.

So, the less expensive cutters were deemed of much higher quality. They're nicely machined and cut perfectly.

I know I have other far more important things to do, but I really enjoy the simple tasks at Parallax.

Ken Gracey

Right-angle cutter showdown.jpg
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Comments

  • MacTuxLinMacTuxLin Posts: 821
    edited 2012-05-23 21:15
    Hi Ken,

    You might want to test & check that the rubbery (I assume it is) holders would not loose its grip to the steel handler after some serious & long cutting ...
  • Ken GraceyKen Gracey Posts: 7,401
    edited 2012-05-23 21:18
    Kenichi, I'll do that test as you suggested. I'll check for the tactile feeling, softness, fatigue and cleaning ability of the rubberized cover on the cutters.

    Thanks for the tip - I didn't think about that.

    Ken Gracey
  • ercoerco Posts: 20,259
    edited 2012-05-23 22:04
    You can have my Plato cutters after I'm dead by prying them from my cold dead hands! I love them for cutting and stripping wire and also for cutting thin materials like styrene. Fabulous for fabrication! Also $6 from our tool guy.
    719 x 539 - 95K
  • tobdectobdec Posts: 267
    edited 2012-05-23 22:06
    Ken something else to look at I've experienced time and time again with cheap cutters is after a few months of use the hinges get really gritty and no matter how much oil you use they stick pretty badly at times. In fact my pros kit cutters in front of me are having this very issue...
  • tobdectobdec Posts: 267
    edited 2012-05-23 22:07
    erco wrote: »
    You can have my Plato cutters after I'm dead by prying them from my cold dead hands! I love them for cutting and stripping wire and also for cutting thin materials like styrene. Fabulous for fabrication! Also $6 from our tool guy.
    erco I likes! Harbor freight? Maybe?
  • ercoerco Posts: 20,259
    edited 2012-05-23 22:12
    I use some HF tools, but these aren't. Better quality. I probably have 10 pairs between work, home & car. They last forever or until some bonehead borrows them to cut steel wire, whichever comes first.
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2012-05-23 22:34
    A good friend of mine gave me a pair of Swanstrom cutters (PDF). I think he felt guilty for cutting music wire with the cutters I had, although he denies doing so to this day. Man, I never knew what good side cutters were until I used these! Now, whenever my friend comes over to use my shop, I make sure they're well hidden. Oh yeah, I know what you're thinking; but I just know he'd want me to ensure that the gift he gave me is not mistreated. :)

    -Phil
  • LeonLeon Posts: 7,620
    edited 2012-05-24 00:31
    I've been using the same Lindstrom cutters and pliers for over 15 years. They still work perfectly. One of the springs broke a few years ago and the UK importer gave me a replacement.
  • SRLMSRLM Posts: 5,045
    edited 2012-05-24 00:55
    A good friend of mine gave me a pair of Swanstrom cutters (PDF). I think he felt guilty for cutting music wire with the cutters I had, although he denies doing so to this day. Man, I never knew what good side cutters were until I used these! Now, whenever my friend comes over to use my shop, I make sure they're well hidden. Oh yeah, I know what you're thinking; but I just know he'd want me to ensure that the gift he gave me is not mistreated. :)

    -Phil

    Expensive cutters! http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&field-keywords=SWANSTROM%20TOOLS%20USA&index=tools&search-type=ss

    The Lindstrom cutters are spendy too: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Lindstrom+cutter

    The Plato cutters are much more reasonable: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=plato+model+170
  • idbruceidbruce Posts: 6,197
    edited 2012-05-24 01:28
    Speaking of cutting music wire with diagonal cutters.....

    As many of you know, my wire bending CNC machine bends and cuts music wire, but when adjusting the straightening rolls on the wire straighteners, it is often much easier to cut the test lengths with diagonal cutters. After literally hundreds of cuts of 0.032" music wire, my Klien 6" Heavy Duty High Leverage Diagonal Cutters show very little signs of wear, except where I shorted them on a live 120V circuit (ooopppsss). These diagonals are very durable and will cut 10-32s with a little effort.

    That is all I have to say about the issue :)

    Bruce

    EDIT:
    That is all I have to say about the issue :)

    Okay, I lied...

    The moral of this story is:
    When a friend visits your shop and wants to cut something, give him the very best cutters available, a pair of Klien 6" Heavy Duty High Leverage Diagonal Cutters, but keep him away from live wires :)
  • LoopyBytelooseLoopyByteloose Posts: 12,537
    edited 2012-05-24 06:25
    I'd probably go with the $2 pair for copper wire. But if you really want to test for durability and good steel, try cutting through a wire coat hanger with each of them. Cheap ones end up completely destroyed.

    The Japanese make a lot of very nice high-quality tools due to learning from the Germans before WWII, but these days there are a few Japanese manufacturers that occasionally slip in poor quality while asking for higher price.

    Also, you might want to evaluate needle nose pliers. The cheap ones have their tips bend when you tightly grip a coin, such as a penny or a nickle. The good ones are tempered and won't bend.
  • prof_brainoprof_braino Posts: 4,313
    edited 2012-05-24 07:10
    try cutting through a wire coat hanger

    needle nose pliers. The cheap ones have their tips bend when you tightly grip a coin... The good ones are tempered and won't bend.

    Good tips. Thanks!
  • idbruceidbruce Posts: 6,197
    edited 2012-05-24 07:31
    Also, you might want to evaluate needle nose pliers. The cheap ones have their tips bend when you tightly grip a coin, such as a penny or a nickle. The good ones are tempered and won't bend.

    Well there you have it in nutshell!

    Hardened steel cutters are much more durable than non-hardened cutters, not necessarily better quality, but the cutting edge will last a lot longer. Generally hardened steel will have a grey to charcoal tint to the metal, indicating that it has a higher carbon content. If you wanted to be thorugh, you could always perform a brinell hardness test to verify the hardness of the metal :)
  • jmgjmg Posts: 15,183
    edited 2012-05-24 21:46
    Ken Gracey wrote: »
    Kenichi, I'll do that test as you suggested. I'll check for the tactile feeling, softness, fatigue and cleaning ability of the rubberized cover on the cutters.

    Do you include safety goggles ?
    Another test for cutters, is the 'ping speed' - how fast does that snipped end, fly across the room ?!

    I've seen some cutters that attempt to hold the snipped lead and the ones here certainly vary in that detail.
  • jazzedjazzed Posts: 11,803
    edited 2012-05-24 22:27
  • xanaduxanadu Posts: 3,347
    edited 2012-05-24 22:40
    If you're trying to decide between those two maybe some independent stress testing is viable. I've used Parallax products to build some rigs in the past to do so. My last one was a toggle switch. Here's the short version, the switch lasted longer than I cared to continue the test, so I recommended it for the application I was consulted on.

    [video=youtube_share;e7iwQKi38Rk]
  • LoopyBytelooseLoopyByteloose Posts: 12,537
    edited 2012-05-25 05:56
    Back in 1960, you had to buy German ones to get the best quality. Appearances can be very similar, but some cultures just are committed to excellence. These days, I find it hard to get any with properly hardened steel.
  • RobotWorkshopRobotWorkshop Posts: 2,307
    edited 2012-05-25 06:54
    Hello Ken,

    I have a couple Xcelite cutters and also some of the low cost ones. If you have extra pairs of cutters I would set aside one of each brand for testing how they hold up to a lot of use and some abuse.

    The quality of the cheap cutters vary a lot. Some of the cheap cutters are excellent, others seem ok when new but don't last long. The two issues that came up on which made them unusable were:

    - The blades weren't hardened and either quickly dulled or may deform after cutting may leads or tougher material. (The better ones last much longer)

    - The pivot point wears out quickly on some of the cheap ones and with the extra slop the blades no longer close flush or may close flush but be off from side to side making it useless as a cutter.
  • JLockeJLocke Posts: 354
    edited 2012-05-25 07:07
    jazzed wrote: »

    I have 3 or 4 pairs of these scattered around. I love the flush cut. I was initially surprised that I like them so well, given their inexpensive price. They excel at trimming the excess off your ti-wraps; they don't leave that little plastic 'point' sticking up like regular diagonal cutters.
  • Peter KG6LSEPeter KG6LSE Posts: 1,383
    edited 2012-05-25 07:30
    Plato is good !!!.. ..

    I use pros kit as of now as I can get them at cost . last about a year ...


    Peter..
  • NWUpgradesNWUpgrades Posts: 292
    edited 2012-06-08 21:45
    I myself am a firm believer in "You get what you pay for". I am a self employed IT/CCTV Tech/Installer. When I first started doing CCTV I bought a $25.00 crimp tool. It lasted all of about 6 months. Same goes for my RJ-11/45 crimp tool and wire strippers. Once I was able to, I purchased the more expensive Ideal Crimpers and cutters. That was 12 years ago and I am still using them!!! The CCTV tools were about 8 years ago. I now do not buy the cheap stuff. I would rather pay a little more for quality than to be on a job site and have a tool break on me.
  • Invent-O-DocInvent-O-Doc Posts: 768
    edited 2012-06-10 16:32
    I swear by Erem cutting tools. I use them for electronics and my wife uses them or jewelry. Very long lasting. The feel nice in your hand.
  • Duane C. JohnsonDuane C. Johnson Posts: 955
    edited 2012-06-10 17:26
    Anybody know where to find Diagonal and End cutter with Silicon Carbide cutting surfaces?

    I, in another life at Unisys, used them and never wore one out until some BONE HEAD cut steel wire or some such.

    I seem to remember they were Diamalloy 25 years ago.

    Duane J
  • Tracy AllenTracy Allen Posts: 6,664
    edited 2012-06-10 23:51
    I'd like to try the $2 cutters, but like others here, I have my favorite that I always reach for even though others might be closer at hand on the workbench. For me that is the Wiha. They handle well and keep their edge and alignment, and they do get into tight spaces.
    wiha.jpg
    300 x 300 - 5K
  • CircuitsoftCircuitsoft Posts: 1,166
    edited 2012-06-12 09:34
    I've been thoroughly impressed by the tools I've gotten from ENGINEER co. of Japan. The Pliers I got actually listed HRC56 on the back of the package.
  • pedwardpedward Posts: 1,642
    edited 2012-06-13 16:41
    This is what I have: http://www.amazon.com/Xcelite-170M-General-Shearcutter-Diagonal/dp/B0002BBZIS

    The cutting edges are easily damaged if you misuse them. I like them because they are the flushest cutters I've found, light, padded, and spring return. The are stamped "Made in USA" on metal. They are hardened and deflect, but don't bend.
  • idbruceidbruce Posts: 6,197
    edited 2012-06-13 17:08
    @pedward
    The cutting edges are easily damaged if you misuse them.

    I misuse and abuse tools in all sorts of ways. I obviously wouldn't be able to use these cutters as a sledgehammer. :)

    Bruce
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2012-06-13 17:33
    Bruce probably uses the tip of his pocketknife blade as a Philips screwdriver. (Don't ask me how I know that it works. :) )

    -Phil
  • idbruceidbruce Posts: 6,197
    edited 2012-06-13 17:51
    Bruce probably uses the tip of his pocketknife blade as a Philips screwdriver.

    Only if necessary :)

    Since we are on the subject of knives now, I will tell you that the Buck Model #119 makes a better hunting knife than a throwing knife. Back in my youth, every once in a while, I would practice throwing the 119 at a big cottonwood tree from about 15 -20 feet away, and I must say that I was getting real good at getting it to stick pretty deeply. Imagine my dismay when the knife improperly struck the tree and snapped in half. :)

    Bruce
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